Back to Buenos Aires
14/05/09 23:57
Aerolineas Argentinas Calafate to Buenos Aires via Bariloche. Arg$489 (£83). Cheaper than the bus.
El Calafate - Todos Glaciares - Upsala
13/05/09 22:43
Up early this morning. The bus picked me up at 07:05 and then went round the houses picking up other passengers. We finally cleared Calafate at 08:00 and arrived at Puerto Bandera 30 minutes later.
Right off the bus we had to pat another Arg$60. This is a national park. Then we boarded our Fernandez-Cambell tour caramaran. Both our park and boat tickets were carefully checked before boarding. Bracing this was not. The seating area is fully enclosed with airline style seats and lots of video screens which later showed our GPS track and topography. It was comfortably warm. It was a sheep like experience.
Before departure they announced that part of the route would likely be blocked by heavy ice.
Our departure point at Puerto Bandera.
At 09:00 we were off.
Looking back at Boca del Diablo.
Proceeding along Brazo Norte towards the Upsala glacier.
Built by Unidelta Astilleros in Tigre near Buenos Aires.
Southern shore of Brazo Norte.
Detailed GPS routing on the monitors.
Plus a detailed map on display.
Passengers were allowed out on deck. Not surprisingly it was cold and most stayed inside.
Boca del Diablo more clearly defined.
Twin diesels pushed us along at a cracking rate.
Only now did the sun clear the mountains as we began to encounter icebergs. It was cold.
We had a running commentary in English and Spanish as points of interest were passed.
Glaciers are formed by snow being compressed into ice over some 15 years. They are not formed of frozen water. Hence the very blue/green appearance due, we were told by by the heavier density of glacial ice (less air bubbles).
Approaching Brazo Upsala.
Lots of ice here blocking Brazo Upsala. We would not be going to the Upsala glacier. Brazo Upsala is some 700ft deep and the front of the glacier is afloat. When sections brak off huge bergs are formed.
We went pretty close to the bergs. About 10m at times.
Then we turned down Brazo Spegazzini bound for Glacier Spegazzini
Right off the bus we had to pat another Arg$60. This is a national park. Then we boarded our Fernandez-Cambell tour caramaran. Both our park and boat tickets were carefully checked before boarding. Bracing this was not. The seating area is fully enclosed with airline style seats and lots of video screens which later showed our GPS track and topography. It was comfortably warm. It was a sheep like experience.
Before departure they announced that part of the route would likely be blocked by heavy ice.
Our departure point at Puerto Bandera.
At 09:00 we were off.
Looking back at Boca del Diablo.
Proceeding along Brazo Norte towards the Upsala glacier.
Built by Unidelta Astilleros in Tigre near Buenos Aires.
Southern shore of Brazo Norte.
Detailed GPS routing on the monitors.
Plus a detailed map on display.
Passengers were allowed out on deck. Not surprisingly it was cold and most stayed inside.
Boca del Diablo more clearly defined.
Twin diesels pushed us along at a cracking rate.
Only now did the sun clear the mountains as we began to encounter icebergs. It was cold.
We had a running commentary in English and Spanish as points of interest were passed.
Glaciers are formed by snow being compressed into ice over some 15 years. They are not formed of frozen water. Hence the very blue/green appearance due, we were told by by the heavier density of glacial ice (less air bubbles).
Approaching Brazo Upsala.
Lots of ice here blocking Brazo Upsala. We would not be going to the Upsala glacier. Brazo Upsala is some 700ft deep and the front of the glacier is afloat. When sections brak off huge bergs are formed.
We went pretty close to the bergs. About 10m at times.
Then we turned down Brazo Spegazzini bound for Glacier Spegazzini
Punta Arenas
08/05/09 21:34
Attractive Plaza Munoz Gamero and surrounding buildings.
Tourist information in Plaza Munoz Gamero.
The British are everywhere. I passed this school while walking up to Buses Ghisoni to buy a ticket to Rio Gallegos.
The ticket cost C$7000 (about £9.00) and the bus leaves at 10:50 on the 11th of May which is a monday.
Puerto Williams to Punta Arenas
07/05/09 21:32
Still very cold this morning with lots of snow on the ground. I considered buying some more suitable boots if we are to be stuck here until Monday but the Zapateria was closed. Unable to check mail as the free internet was again occupied.
On the off chance that things might have changed I dropped by the airline ticket office at 10:20. Surprisingly there was one seat to Punta Arenas today at 11:00 and one tomorrow. I immediately booked today with Aerovias DAP to Punta Arenas at Ch$49,774 (£50).
Dashed back to Pattys (Hostel Pusaki) to settle my bill. 4 nights C$62500 (£78) with Breakfast and an evening meal.
Two bank auditors staying at Hostel Pusaki were flying as well so I took a taxi with them.
En route to Puerto Williams airport.
I was very glad to be leaving. Winter is coming and I did not have the right gear for sustained cold weather.
Conditions were quite bleak as our 10 seat Beechcraft KingAir 100 boarded.
In heavy snow one could not see the end of the runway.
Once airborne we had a brief glimpse of Puerto Williams and once clear of the weather we were rewarded with spectacular views of the Beagle channel.
Cruising altitude was 8000m at about 180knots.
Approaching Pinta Arenas airport. Chilean fighter aircraft are housed in camouflaged hangars on the periphery.
It was a good flight. We landed at 12:30.
I took a transfer bus downtown (Ch$2,000) and with help from the tourist office on Plaza Munoz Gamero located a nearby hostel. En route I popped into into Hotel Condor de Plata at CH$25,000 (£30) per night and decided to stay. Nice to be somewhere warm again. I'm going to stay here for a few days and try to shake my cold.
On the off chance that things might have changed I dropped by the airline ticket office at 10:20. Surprisingly there was one seat to Punta Arenas today at 11:00 and one tomorrow. I immediately booked today with Aerovias DAP to Punta Arenas at Ch$49,774 (£50).
Dashed back to Pattys (Hostel Pusaki) to settle my bill. 4 nights C$62500 (£78) with Breakfast and an evening meal.
Two bank auditors staying at Hostel Pusaki were flying as well so I took a taxi with them.
En route to Puerto Williams airport.
I was very glad to be leaving. Winter is coming and I did not have the right gear for sustained cold weather.
Conditions were quite bleak as our 10 seat Beechcraft KingAir 100 boarded.
In heavy snow one could not see the end of the runway.
Once airborne we had a brief glimpse of Puerto Williams and once clear of the weather we were rewarded with spectacular views of the Beagle channel.
Cruising altitude was 8000m at about 180knots.
Approaching Pinta Arenas airport. Chilean fighter aircraft are housed in camouflaged hangars on the periphery.
It was a good flight. We landed at 12:30.
I took a transfer bus downtown (Ch$2,000) and with help from the tourist office on Plaza Munoz Gamero located a nearby hostel. En route I popped into into Hotel Condor de Plata at CH$25,000 (£30) per night and decided to stay. Nice to be somewhere warm again. I'm going to stay here for a few days and try to shake my cold.
Ushuaia - Glacier
02/05/09 21:17
San Carlos de Bariloche
25/04/09 21:07
We slept in and decided to pass a quiet day in Bariloche after missing the boat to Isla Victoria.
The hostel gave us another room when they were unable to repair the heating.
The hostel gave us another room when they were unable to repair the heating.
Villa la Angostura to San Carlos de Bariloche
24/04/09 21:06
La Sinfonia apartment hotel. One night Arg$200 (£34) for three.
Our trusty Chevrolet Corsa.
Main street Villa la Angostura.
From Villa La Angostura it was only 80km down to Bariloche mostly along the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
The scenery was again stunning and we stopped frequently.
Approaching Bariloche at the east end of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
Central Bariloche.
Bariloche marina on Lago Nahuel Huapi.
At Bariloche we had lunch then parted company with Marcus who headed off into the mountains. Thanks for the lift Marcus.
We decided to stay in Bariloche a day or two and checked into a private room at Las Moiras Hostel. Cost Arg$60 per night.
We had an enjoyable late dinner before returning to Las Moiras.
There was a heating malfunction. IE there wasn't any heating. By this time the outside temperature had dropped to zero. They did, however, have lots of extra blankets.
Our trusty Chevrolet Corsa.
Main street Villa la Angostura.
From Villa La Angostura it was only 80km down to Bariloche mostly along the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
The scenery was again stunning and we stopped frequently.
Approaching Bariloche at the east end of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
Central Bariloche.
Bariloche marina on Lago Nahuel Huapi.
At Bariloche we had lunch then parted company with Marcus who headed off into the mountains. Thanks for the lift Marcus.
We decided to stay in Bariloche a day or two and checked into a private room at Las Moiras Hostel. Cost Arg$60 per night.
We had an enjoyable late dinner before returning to Las Moiras.
There was a heating malfunction. IE there wasn't any heating. By this time the outside temperature had dropped to zero. They did, however, have lots of extra blankets.
St Martin de Los Andes to Villa la Angostura
23/04/09 22:03
Our hotel in San Martin de los Andes.
Main street San Martin de los Andes.
Travellers bound south normally check road conditions with the tourist office. They were a bit surprised that we planned to travel to Villa la Angostura in a Chevrolet Corsa.
We were now in the spectacular Argentine lake district travelling on route 234. This road was about 50% unpaved and very muddy with extensive potholing in places.
Heavy rain would make the route very difficult but the weather was fine and the scenery spectacular.
Marcus and self on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi with snow topped mountains behind us.
Lago Nahuel Huapi
We travelled slowly arriving in Villa la Angostura late in the afternoon. It is a lovely town on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
This time we rented a furnished cabina at "La Sinfonia" for Arg$200 per night. Excellent place and Marcus cooked a very tasty beef bourguignon.
Main street San Martin de los Andes.
Travellers bound south normally check road conditions with the tourist office. They were a bit surprised that we planned to travel to Villa la Angostura in a Chevrolet Corsa.
We were now in the spectacular Argentine lake district travelling on route 234. This road was about 50% unpaved and very muddy with extensive potholing in places.
Heavy rain would make the route very difficult but the weather was fine and the scenery spectacular.
Marcus and self on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi with snow topped mountains behind us.
Lago Nahuel Huapi
We travelled slowly arriving in Villa la Angostura late in the afternoon. It is a lovely town on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
This time we rented a furnished cabina at "La Sinfonia" for Arg$200 per night. Excellent place and Marcus cooked a very tasty beef bourguignon.
Villa Pehuenia to St Martin de Los Andes
22/04/09 22:02
A view from our apartment window in Villa Pehuenia.
And another.
We had heard that it might be possible to go horseback riding in the area. It wasn't and absent anything else to do we decided to check out and see about leaving town.
We walked about for a while and discovered that the next bus out was at 23:30.
There was a rail service here at some point.
Curious trees.
Lago Aluminé.
Roadside map.
Lago Aluminé.
In the event we started walking out of town then got a lift 4 km to a road junction where Gilles suggested we hitch hike. Having not done this for 40 years I was unsure but it was a good call.
We came in on this route yesterday.
We plan to leave by this route.
Waiting for a lift.
Gilles was right. A little later Marcus, from Switzerland, arrived in a Chevrolet Corsa and gave us a lift. He had been forced to divert due to protest road blocks by indigenous Mapuche residents.
We followed the Aluminé river south through wild and spectacular country.
Gravel roads...
Giving way to good quality asphalt.
Our plan had been simply to get a lift to Aluminé some 20km down the road. Marcus was bound for Bariloche and was happy for us to ride with him. We gratefully accepted.
Aluminé river.
Back on the gravel.
Along the way we had a few rain showers. Then, about 20k north of Junin de los Andes, we ran into another Mapuche roadblock.
Or rather a bridge block. Travellers could walk across the bridge but vehicles were stopped.
This chap tested the capability of his 4x4 trying to bypass the bridge. Not a good plan but the police later hauled him out.
Travellers walking across to a waiting coach.
Local press reporting events.
Our bridge featured.
After two hours the blockade was lifted and we continued on to Junin de los Andes where we had a coffee and decided to press on to San Martin de los Andes.
San Martin was a lovely spot. We stayed at Hosteria Cumelen. A nice enough place where we paid Arg$165 for a 3 bed suite to a very grumpy owner.
We dined well at a nearby restaurant.
And another.
We had heard that it might be possible to go horseback riding in the area. It wasn't and absent anything else to do we decided to check out and see about leaving town.
We walked about for a while and discovered that the next bus out was at 23:30.
There was a rail service here at some point.
Curious trees.
Lago Aluminé.
Roadside map.
Lago Aluminé.
In the event we started walking out of town then got a lift 4 km to a road junction where Gilles suggested we hitch hike. Having not done this for 40 years I was unsure but it was a good call.
We came in on this route yesterday.
We plan to leave by this route.
Waiting for a lift.
Gilles was right. A little later Marcus, from Switzerland, arrived in a Chevrolet Corsa and gave us a lift. He had been forced to divert due to protest road blocks by indigenous Mapuche residents.
We followed the Aluminé river south through wild and spectacular country.
Gravel roads...
Giving way to good quality asphalt.
Our plan had been simply to get a lift to Aluminé some 20km down the road. Marcus was bound for Bariloche and was happy for us to ride with him. We gratefully accepted.
Aluminé river.
Back on the gravel.
Along the way we had a few rain showers. Then, about 20k north of Junin de los Andes, we ran into another Mapuche roadblock.
Or rather a bridge block. Travellers could walk across the bridge but vehicles were stopped.
This chap tested the capability of his 4x4 trying to bypass the bridge. Not a good plan but the police later hauled him out.
Travellers walking across to a waiting coach.
Local press reporting events.
Our bridge featured.
After two hours the blockade was lifted and we continued on to Junin de los Andes where we had a coffee and decided to press on to San Martin de los Andes.
San Martin was a lovely spot. We stayed at Hosteria Cumelen. A nice enough place where we paid Arg$165 for a 3 bed suite to a very grumpy owner.
We dined well at a nearby restaurant.
Neuquen to Villa Pehuenia
21/04/09 22:00
After sunrise we could see just how vast and flat this part of the country is. It is bleak with few animals and the air is noticably drier.
Police checkpoint en route to Neuquen.
We arrived in Neuquen at 11:00. This is only a transit stop as we never left the bus station. Our next destination is Villa Pehuenia near the Chilean border and we will travel with Albus at a cost of Arg$65.
We had a 2 1/2 hour wait and had a good lunch in the terminal.
Gilles about to board.
On board for a 13:30 departure. Albus use similar buses to Chevalier but this one was older and somewhat tired.
As we proceeded the landscape rapidly became mountainous as we climbed into the Andes.
Our first gaucho.
We passed though CutralCo, Zapala and Aluminé. At times asphalt gave way to gravel as the road steepened with many switchbacks. Very dramatic scenery with some cows and sheep appearing.
We arrived at Villa Pehuenia around 20:20 after some 7 hours. Not a lot was open. It seems we have arrived in between the end of trekking/fishing and the ski season.
Some helpful locals take us to Apartamentos Don Piri, just outside town, where we booked an apartment. Later we ate at Los Troncos, a bit uppish on price but not bad given that they were the only place open. Our apartment cost Arg$150 for two and our meal Arg$140 for two.
My Movistar mobile does not work here but Claro does.
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Police checkpoint en route to Neuquen.
We arrived in Neuquen at 11:00. This is only a transit stop as we never left the bus station. Our next destination is Villa Pehuenia near the Chilean border and we will travel with Albus at a cost of Arg$65.
We had a 2 1/2 hour wait and had a good lunch in the terminal.
Gilles about to board.
On board for a 13:30 departure. Albus use similar buses to Chevalier but this one was older and somewhat tired.
As we proceeded the landscape rapidly became mountainous as we climbed into the Andes.
Our first gaucho.
We passed though CutralCo, Zapala and Aluminé. At times asphalt gave way to gravel as the road steepened with many switchbacks. Very dramatic scenery with some cows and sheep appearing.
We arrived at Villa Pehuenia around 20:20 after some 7 hours. Not a lot was open. It seems we have arrived in between the end of trekking/fishing and the ski season.
Some helpful locals take us to Apartamentos Don Piri, just outside town, where we booked an apartment. Later we ate at Los Troncos, a bit uppish on price but not bad given that they were the only place open. Our apartment cost Arg$150 for two and our meal Arg$140 for two.
My Movistar mobile does not work here but Claro does.
next
Buenos Aires to Neuquen
20/04/09 22:58
Today was the beginning of our Patagonia road trip. For the first leg from Buenos Aires to Neuquen we are booked on Chevalier leaving Retiro at 20:00. The cost for Executivo class is Arg$170. We have made no other bookings and plan to wing it as we go.
Retiro Bus Station - Buenos Aires.
Our Chevalier coach.
On board awaiting departure.
My travelling companion, Gilles.
Our route will take us south and west through the suburbs of Buenos Aires, Mercedes, Chivilcoy, Pehuajo, Santa Rosa, Caranche, Casa de Piedra, General Roca and on to Neuquen.
Retiro Bus Station - Buenos Aires.
Our Chevalier coach.
On board awaiting departure.
My travelling companion, Gilles.
Our route will take us south and west through the suburbs of Buenos Aires, Mercedes, Chivilcoy, Pehuajo, Santa Rosa, Caranche, Casa de Piedra, General Roca and on to Neuquen.