San Fernando
CNV to Yacht Club Puerto Madero
06/12/09 22:15
Up early today to catch the tide. We stopped first at San Fernando Prefectura to let them know we were leaving CNV.
Once on board we stowed the dinghy and got away around 09:30. Many thanks to all at Club Nautico Victoria for their hospitality and assistance during my stay. The facilities have been excellent and the boat was always secure whatever the weather. I was able to leave for long periods without concern for the safety of Kiriwina.
En route CNV to Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires.
We motor sailed all the way with 10-15 knots fine on the port bow. It was more motoring than sailing with short choppy seas. Despite there being a falling tide water levels were quite high due to recent S-SE winds.
Passing through Darsena Norte with Yacht Club Argentino in the background.
Passing Yacht Club Argentino where I arrived in Buenos Aires on 18 December last year.
Unlike last time I had reserved a berth. We only waited 5 minutes before the swing bridge opened and 5 boats left.
A marinero was there to escort us through the entrance and on to our berth where he assisted with mooring.
Approaching our berth C8 at Yacht Club Puerto Madero.
All fast alongside at 14:30 on a warm and cloudy sunday afternoon.
It was a pleasant change to be able to step over the rail directly onto a dock. I haven't done this since December 2007 at La Gomera in the Canaries.
A view from our berth at Puerto Madero.
Once on board we stowed the dinghy and got away around 09:30. Many thanks to all at Club Nautico Victoria for their hospitality and assistance during my stay. The facilities have been excellent and the boat was always secure whatever the weather. I was able to leave for long periods without concern for the safety of Kiriwina.
En route CNV to Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires.
We motor sailed all the way with 10-15 knots fine on the port bow. It was more motoring than sailing with short choppy seas. Despite there being a falling tide water levels were quite high due to recent S-SE winds.
Passing through Darsena Norte with Yacht Club Argentino in the background.
Passing Yacht Club Argentino where I arrived in Buenos Aires on 18 December last year.
Unlike last time I had reserved a berth. We only waited 5 minutes before the swing bridge opened and 5 boats left.
A marinero was there to escort us through the entrance and on to our berth where he assisted with mooring.
Approaching our berth C8 at Yacht Club Puerto Madero.
All fast alongside at 14:30 on a warm and cloudy sunday afternoon.
It was a pleasant change to be able to step over the rail directly onto a dock. I haven't done this since December 2007 at La Gomera in the Canaries.
A view from our berth at Puerto Madero.
Kiriwina arrested by Prefectura Naval
04/12/09 21:17
I had just arrived at the boat to continue preparing for departure when I was summoned to the club administration office.
Kiriwina had been arrested by the Prefectura Naval and was prohibited from leaving her berth under threat of severe penalties. The club apologised and said they were going to chain and lock Kiriwina to her mooring.
After 10 minutes at the Prefectura office in San Fernando all was resolved and I was told Kiriwina would be freed. The Prefectura Naval are a well funded body responsible for pretty much anything to do with commercial and leisure navigation and for policing waterfront areas. They operate all over Argentina including inland lakes and rivers. I saw them in Bariloche and Calafate.
There are offices at regular intervals between Buenos Aires and Tigre each responsible for a certain length of coastline.
San Fernando was a relatively new office and when conducting a routine check at CNV they noted Kiriwina was a foreign vessel. CNV had a copy of my passport details and vessel registration but not my Aduana (customs) document. Back in the San Fernando Prefectura office there was no record of Kiriwina. The handling officer assumed non-compliance and issued an arrest order.
All my documents had been lodged with the San Isidro Prefectura, as I had been instructed to do, but there does not appear to be a centralised register and Prefectura offices are not directly linked.
I was not given a document confirming compliance and was told that an officer would visit CNV and authorise them to release Kiriwina. As at 17:30 this had not happened.
Kiriwina had been arrested by the Prefectura Naval and was prohibited from leaving her berth under threat of severe penalties. The club apologised and said they were going to chain and lock Kiriwina to her mooring.
After 10 minutes at the Prefectura office in San Fernando all was resolved and I was told Kiriwina would be freed. The Prefectura Naval are a well funded body responsible for pretty much anything to do with commercial and leisure navigation and for policing waterfront areas. They operate all over Argentina including inland lakes and rivers. I saw them in Bariloche and Calafate.
There are offices at regular intervals between Buenos Aires and Tigre each responsible for a certain length of coastline.
San Fernando was a relatively new office and when conducting a routine check at CNV they noted Kiriwina was a foreign vessel. CNV had a copy of my passport details and vessel registration but not my Aduana (customs) document. Back in the San Fernando Prefectura office there was no record of Kiriwina. The handling officer assumed non-compliance and issued an arrest order.
All my documents had been lodged with the San Isidro Prefectura, as I had been instructed to do, but there does not appear to be a centralised register and Prefectura offices are not directly linked.
I was not given a document confirming compliance and was told that an officer would visit CNV and authorise them to release Kiriwina. As at 17:30 this had not happened.
Asado and Departure Preparation
03/12/09 23:39
Another invitation to a weekly Asado at Club Nautico Barlovento. I arrived slightly late due to my Brompton bursting a back tyre. Delta Bike had a look at it and said they would try to source a replacement but they were not very confident of success.
Some very tame birds came to feed.
Excellent Argentine wine with delicious meat cooked slowly and carefully.
Afterwards I went back to CNV to prepare for departure on Sunday. Today the water was at its highest for quite some time.
My dinghy had picked up quite a bit of fouling since I last washed it in August. In Brazil it would pick up more than this in a week or two.
While scrubbing away I noticed a club launch arrive with a prefectura officer who set about photographing my boat. He took some photos and went away without saying anything to me.
Meantime the water level rose over the retaining wall and onto the lawn.
Last year Kiriwina spent a lot of time at anchor in Brazil. Today when cleaning the anchor cable I was puzzled by differences in deterioration levels over the length of the chain.
My conclusion was that the section at left was on the bottom but not dragged about very much. Second from left, in the worst condition, was a section that would have been on the bottom and dragged about a lot. The third section was in the water but usually not on the bottom and the cleanest section at right was rarely in the water.
On the way back to Tigre calle Dardo Rocho was flooded for several hundred metres. Apparently, the cause was high water levels causing some storm drains to backup.
Some very tame birds came to feed.
Excellent Argentine wine with delicious meat cooked slowly and carefully.
Afterwards I went back to CNV to prepare for departure on Sunday. Today the water was at its highest for quite some time.
My dinghy had picked up quite a bit of fouling since I last washed it in August. In Brazil it would pick up more than this in a week or two.
While scrubbing away I noticed a club launch arrive with a prefectura officer who set about photographing my boat. He took some photos and went away without saying anything to me.
Meantime the water level rose over the retaining wall and onto the lawn.
Last year Kiriwina spent a lot of time at anchor in Brazil. Today when cleaning the anchor cable I was puzzled by differences in deterioration levels over the length of the chain.
My conclusion was that the section at left was on the bottom but not dragged about very much. Second from left, in the worst condition, was a section that would have been on the bottom and dragged about a lot. The third section was in the water but usually not on the bottom and the cleanest section at right was rarely in the water.
On the way back to Tigre calle Dardo Rocho was flooded for several hundred metres. Apparently, the cause was high water levels causing some storm drains to backup.
Windlass Motor - Installed
01/12/09 22:10
Installed my recently refurbished Lofrans windlass motor. It worked perfectly. It remains to be seen whether the water leaks which caused extensive corrosion have been stopped.
I hope so. We have had a lot of rain recently and there is no sign of any leaks. Just to be sure I gave the many hole patches another coat of epoxy filler before fitting the motor.
This is the anchor chain locker drain which allows any water which gets in here to drain aft to the bilge. I like this idea which pretty much avoids the problem of a full chain locker causing the bow to dip further exposing the foredeck in heavy weather.
Also took 40 litres of diesel at Arg$2.658 pesos/litre (£0.42p). This compares well with Reals 2.72/litre (£0.94) the last time I took on diesel (verano) at Paraty in Brazil about a year ago.
I hope so. We have had a lot of rain recently and there is no sign of any leaks. Just to be sure I gave the many hole patches another coat of epoxy filler before fitting the motor.
This is the anchor chain locker drain which allows any water which gets in here to drain aft to the bilge. I like this idea which pretty much avoids the problem of a full chain locker causing the bow to dip further exposing the foredeck in heavy weather.
Also took 40 litres of diesel at Arg$2.658 pesos/litre (£0.42p). This compares well with Reals 2.72/litre (£0.94) the last time I took on diesel (verano) at Paraty in Brazil about a year ago.
Alternator and Starter Installed
30/11/09 20:31
My stay at CN Victoria is due to end on Sunday. After 11 months as a transitorio it is time to go. The plan is to prepare the boat this week and sail down to Buenos Aires on Sunday.
First up was the installation of the refurbished alternator and starter motor. Both were fitted without any problems and the engine started immediately.
The electrical wiring installation on my Yanmar 2GMF is a real dogs breakfast. I have not paid much attention to it as there have been no problems. At some point it will have to be sorted into some semblance of order.
The engine has had little use this year and is in excellent condition despite being over 12 years old with 1575 running hours. However parts of the installation have rusted badly, including the shaft coupling, all four engine mounts and the air filter housing.
First up was the installation of the refurbished alternator and starter motor. Both were fitted without any problems and the engine started immediately.
The electrical wiring installation on my Yanmar 2GMF is a real dogs breakfast. I have not paid much attention to it as there have been no problems. At some point it will have to be sorted into some semblance of order.
The engine has had little use this year and is in excellent condition despite being over 12 years old with 1575 running hours. However parts of the installation have rusted badly, including the shaft coupling, all four engine mounts and the air filter housing.
Starter and Alternator Overhauled
23/11/09 22:49
More good work from Petrei & Foglia.
My newly refurnished Hitachi alternator...
...and Hitachi starter motor.
Ready for installation next week.
My newly refurnished Hitachi alternator...
...and Hitachi starter motor.
Ready for installation next week.
Windlass Motor Repaired
20/10/09 11:23
Excellent job by Petrei & Foglia. My Lofrans motor was completely overhauled. They even shot blasted and repainted the casing which was badly corroded.
Prior to reinstalling the motor I had to do something about deckhead leaks.
The cause, again, was holes drilled by whoever installed the teak deck. I counted 24 holes in the chain locker deckhead. Not all leaked but enough did to ensure the motor regularly got wet and lived in very damp environment. All were cleaned out and filled with epoxy.
Last year my anchor chain spent a lot of time on the bottom in Brazil. The portion most exposed (5-20m) is now very rusty with the galvo having almost completely broken down. Time for re-galvanising or replacement.
Back to deckhead leaks. We have had a bit of rain recently and it looks like my previous efforts may have missed one or two. The port upper cabin locker was very wet in places. Another filling job!
Prior to reinstalling the motor I had to do something about deckhead leaks.
The cause, again, was holes drilled by whoever installed the teak deck. I counted 24 holes in the chain locker deckhead. Not all leaked but enough did to ensure the motor regularly got wet and lived in very damp environment. All were cleaned out and filled with epoxy.
Last year my anchor chain spent a lot of time on the bottom in Brazil. The portion most exposed (5-20m) is now very rusty with the galvo having almost completely broken down. Time for re-galvanising or replacement.
Back to deckhead leaks. We have had a bit of rain recently and it looks like my previous efforts may have missed one or two. The port upper cabin locker was very wet in places. Another filling job!
Return from Colonia
19/08/09 21:03
The forecast was for light easterlies increasing to 17-21 knots but we already had over 20 knots on the berth. We cleared Colonia just after 09:30 and hoisted the main outside the harbour. In the process we were hit by a gust of 35 knots.
Things settled down and with the 2 reefs in the main and preventers rigged we set off for San Fernando with the wind more or less astern.
Looking forward with about 20 knots of wind astern. With short steep seas we rolled a bit but the Aries steered without problems.
Jordan preparing lunch.
Towards half way we were experiencing regular gusts over 30 knots. With the wind almost dead astern three reefs rather than two would have been better in the gusts.
Progress was excellent with the log often indicating speeds in excess of 6 knots in winds averaging 25-28 knots. Very good for Kiriwina.
Tanker Mediator 2 in the channel off Buenos Aires with low rain cloud.
Canal Costanero, 2 metres under the keel, speed of 5.9 knots and 25 knots of wind.
Buoy KM 21.7, Canal Costanero between Buenos Aires and the Rio Lujan. With the easterly wind holding up water levels there was a least a metre more depth than on the outbound leg on a rising tide.
By 16:45 we were safely moored in CNV San Fernando just over 7 hours from Colonia having covered 36.7 miles. A very good passage time and much quicker than in March.
Previous
Things settled down and with the 2 reefs in the main and preventers rigged we set off for San Fernando with the wind more or less astern.
Looking forward with about 20 knots of wind astern. With short steep seas we rolled a bit but the Aries steered without problems.
Jordan preparing lunch.
Towards half way we were experiencing regular gusts over 30 knots. With the wind almost dead astern three reefs rather than two would have been better in the gusts.
Progress was excellent with the log often indicating speeds in excess of 6 knots in winds averaging 25-28 knots. Very good for Kiriwina.
Tanker Mediator 2 in the channel off Buenos Aires with low rain cloud.
Canal Costanero, 2 metres under the keel, speed of 5.9 knots and 25 knots of wind.
Buoy KM 21.7, Canal Costanero between Buenos Aires and the Rio Lujan. With the easterly wind holding up water levels there was a least a metre more depth than on the outbound leg on a rising tide.
By 16:45 we were safely moored in CNV San Fernando just over 7 hours from Colonia having covered 36.7 miles. A very good passage time and much quicker than in March.
Previous
Bicycle Lane
05/08/09 21:27
Spent a few hours trying to work out why my Eberspacher boat heater does not work. There is a suspect in-line fuse on the power supply and some wiring harness connectors were badly corroded.
After some taping up and cleaning/oiling the heater ran for about 15 minutes before shutting down and refusing to start. Looks like further cleaning and a new fuse holder will be required.
On the way back to Tigre along Constitucion a new cycle path had been installed.
A cobbled section had been paved over giving a smooth ride all the way to Tigre from Victoria. No more broken spokes!
This makes a pleasant change from Libertador where cycles are banned.
After some taping up and cleaning/oiling the heater ran for about 15 minutes before shutting down and refusing to start. Looks like further cleaning and a new fuse holder will be required.
On the way back to Tigre along Constitucion a new cycle path had been installed.
A cobbled section had been paved over giving a smooth ride all the way to Tigre from Victoria. No more broken spokes!
This makes a pleasant change from Libertador where cycles are banned.
Day Sail
26/07/09 22:34
With a crew of five on board we set off for a day sail down to Buenos Aires. It was a lovely winters day with a light following breeze.
Exiting the River Lujan. We were not the only ones out for a sail.
Erica gracing the foredeck.
Nephew Jordan helming and Nancy.
Erica taking a break from the foredeck.
2.1 knots and a depth reading of 1.9 metres. Outside temperature around 8ºc.
Grimaldi Lines "Grand Francia" manoeuvering in Darsena Norte Buenos Aires.
Kiriwina on the buoys at Yacht Club Argentino.
In the lancha heading ashore.
We had planned to spend the night in the marina at Puerto Madero. They said they were full. Later, around 22:00 we counted 12 empty berths so they were not full at all.
This was no real problem apart from the fact that with a malfunctioning Eberspacher we had no heat aboard with an overnight temperature around zero.
Exiting the River Lujan. We were not the only ones out for a sail.
Erica gracing the foredeck.
Nephew Jordan helming and Nancy.
Erica taking a break from the foredeck.
2.1 knots and a depth reading of 1.9 metres. Outside temperature around 8ºc.
Grimaldi Lines "Grand Francia" manoeuvering in Darsena Norte Buenos Aires.
Kiriwina on the buoys at Yacht Club Argentino.
In the lancha heading ashore.
We had planned to spend the night in the marina at Puerto Madero. They said they were full. Later, around 22:00 we counted 12 empty berths so they were not full at all.
This was no real problem apart from the fact that with a malfunctioning Eberspacher we had no heat aboard with an overnight temperature around zero.
Shift Ship
03/07/09 22:19
This morning I had to go to the dentist a few stops down the line at Martinez. It was all over in about 7 minutes with everything OK. The cost was Arg$150 (about £25).
Back on board at CNV I had been allocated a new berth. Socios have priority and with the club pretty much full we Transitorios are slotted in where space is available. Water levels were again very low.
Three marineros helped me move using a club launch as tug. Here we are stuck but with the launch full astern and me rocking Kiriwina from side to side we pulled clear.
Temporary helmsman.
My new berth is closer to the club entrance from Rio Lujan.
The closest yacht is aground in shallow moorings.
My new mooring. Still with WiFi, electricity and water. Being closer to the river it is exposed to some surge and wake but the motion is gentle. To port is "Alaska" a 47 footer which provides some protection from surge.
Boat spacing is greater with a lot more space astern.
I'm told water levels this low are very rare. Here the mooring chains are exposed. These heavy chains are secured to the bottom. Shorter lighter lengths of chain with mooring lines are shackled to the heavy chain at each mooring. The mooring lines are bought aboard and secured.
The theory is that as water levels rise the heavy chain lifts just enough to ease tension on the moorings. It seems to work pretty well but one needs to experiment a bit to find the right line length.
All secure and we are more or less afloat with the water level some 0.6m below datum. Fortunately the bottom is soft mud.
A quick trip round to Club Albatros where Gilles has his boat ashore for a major refit including re-engining.
Back on board at CNV I had been allocated a new berth. Socios have priority and with the club pretty much full we Transitorios are slotted in where space is available. Water levels were again very low.
Three marineros helped me move using a club launch as tug. Here we are stuck but with the launch full astern and me rocking Kiriwina from side to side we pulled clear.
Temporary helmsman.
My new berth is closer to the club entrance from Rio Lujan.
The closest yacht is aground in shallow moorings.
My new mooring. Still with WiFi, electricity and water. Being closer to the river it is exposed to some surge and wake but the motion is gentle. To port is "Alaska" a 47 footer which provides some protection from surge.
Boat spacing is greater with a lot more space astern.
I'm told water levels this low are very rare. Here the mooring chains are exposed. These heavy chains are secured to the bottom. Shorter lighter lengths of chain with mooring lines are shackled to the heavy chain at each mooring. The mooring lines are bought aboard and secured.
The theory is that as water levels rise the heavy chain lifts just enough to ease tension on the moorings. It seems to work pretty well but one needs to experiment a bit to find the right line length.
All secure and we are more or less afloat with the water level some 0.6m below datum. Fortunately the bottom is soft mud.
A quick trip round to Club Albatros where Gilles has his boat ashore for a major refit including re-engining.
Back to Buenos Aires
14/05/09 23:57
Aerolineas Argentinas Calafate to Buenos Aires via Bariloche. Arg$489 (£83). Cheaper than the bus.
Mobile Phone
11/04/09 16:51
Not wanting to be without a phone I got up early and cycled into San Isidro. My old Sony Ericsson which had suffered from an intermittent blank screen now seemed to work properly.
I was on the Personal network and wanted to get a replacement SIM. Their office being closed for Semana Santa I bought a Movistar SIM for A$10 and topped it up with A$20. SIM cards are very cheap here but calls gobble credit at a rate which I find hard to reconcile with published tariffs.
Back to the boat where I spent a lazy afternoon on the aft deck reading Dreaming of Jupiter by Ted Simon. He rode a Triumph motorcycle around the world 1974 and, aged 70, decided to do it again in 2001.
I was on the Personal network and wanted to get a replacement SIM. Their office being closed for Semana Santa I bought a Movistar SIM for A$10 and topped it up with A$20. SIM cards are very cheap here but calls gobble credit at a rate which I find hard to reconcile with published tariffs.
Back to the boat where I spent a lazy afternoon on the aft deck reading Dreaming of Jupiter by Ted Simon. He rode a Triumph motorcycle around the world 1974 and, aged 70, decided to do it again in 2001.
Dinghy Repaired An excellent job. Thanks Maria.
07/04/09 22:45
Back to Astilleros Sandokan in San Fernando where my dinghy repairs were almost complete.
Maria had waited on the seat strops because replacement necessitated a change of colour from the original and she wanted my approval.
New seat strops.
This done the new strops were quickly fitted and with the dinghy now in better than new condition Maria took me and the dinghy back to CNV with instructions not to use the dinghy for at least 24 hours.
In addition to new seat strops the rubbing strake was re-glued in places and a reinforcing strip of PVC added to the underwater hull at the stern.
An excellent job. Thanks Maria.
Maria had waited on the seat strops because replacement necessitated a change of colour from the original and she wanted my approval.
New seat strops.
This done the new strops were quickly fitted and with the dinghy now in better than new condition Maria took me and the dinghy back to CNV with instructions not to use the dinghy for at least 24 hours.
In addition to new seat strops the rubbing strake was re-glued in places and a reinforcing strip of PVC added to the underwater hull at the stern.
An excellent job. Thanks Maria.
Dinghy in for Repairs
04/04/09 16:34
As arranged Maria and her husband from Astilleros Sandokan arrived at CNV bang on 10:00 to collect my dinghy. I sat in the back of their pickup on the way back to the workshop.
Once there the dinghy was inflated and work started straight away.
Maria using a hot air gun (paint stripper type) to remove a damaged seat strop.
Badly worn seat strop.
Astilleros Sandokan repair old dinghies and build new ones. They even make their own pumps with which to inflate their dinghies.
I left them to it and they promised to have the work finished next tuesday.
Once there the dinghy was inflated and work started straight away.
Maria using a hot air gun (paint stripper type) to remove a damaged seat strop.
Badly worn seat strop.
Astilleros Sandokan repair old dinghies and build new ones. They even make their own pumps with which to inflate their dinghies.
I left them to it and they promised to have the work finished next tuesday.
Cooling Manifold Failure
02/04/09 21:32
For almost a year I have been getting increasing amounts of water in the engine bilge when under power.
Today I confirmed that the suspected part, a cooling water/exhaust outlet pipe, had indeed failed.
This is a two part pipe. Exhaust gases exit via the inner pipe while cooling water enters via the outer pipe. I had two problems.
The outer pipe had cracked at the weld allowing cooling water to run down the engine into the bilge.
.
The inner pipe was "pepper potted" to such an extent that water leaked into it and potentially back into the engine. Not good!
Exhaust manifold showing heavy corrosion from leaking cooling water.
I took the piece down to the local Yanmar importer Regnicoli. They had none in stock and the part would have to be imported from Yanmar in the USA. For this little piece of pipe the price was an eye watering A$1700 (£320).
Talk about captive customers. Yanmar are not known for cheap spare part prices but this seemed ridiculous and I decided to explore alternatives.
Today I confirmed that the suspected part, a cooling water/exhaust outlet pipe, had indeed failed.
This is a two part pipe. Exhaust gases exit via the inner pipe while cooling water enters via the outer pipe. I had two problems.
The outer pipe had cracked at the weld allowing cooling water to run down the engine into the bilge.
.
The inner pipe was "pepper potted" to such an extent that water leaked into it and potentially back into the engine. Not good!
Exhaust manifold showing heavy corrosion from leaking cooling water.
I took the piece down to the local Yanmar importer Regnicoli. They had none in stock and the part would have to be imported from Yanmar in the USA. For this little piece of pipe the price was an eye watering A$1700 (£320).
Talk about captive customers. Yanmar are not known for cheap spare part prices but this seemed ridiculous and I decided to explore alternatives.
Change of Berth
15/03/09 21:01
To date Kiriwina has been moored in the motor boat section at CNV Victoria. My space was needed for another boat so I was moved to another berth opposite the marinero's office.
Looking astern from my new berth.
Looking over the bow across VNV grounds to the Rio Lujan.
My landing jetty just under water. This is not normal.
Water levels were high today. About a metre above average.
Later I got a call from Gilles on Menkar. His motor had failed in the Rio Lujan. He got a tow from an Argentine boat and found a safe berth.
Looking astern from my new berth.
Looking over the bow across VNV grounds to the Rio Lujan.
My landing jetty just under water. This is not normal.
Water levels were high today. About a metre above average.
Later I got a call from Gilles on Menkar. His motor had failed in the Rio Lujan. He got a tow from an Argentine boat and found a safe berth.
Puerto Madero to CN Sudoeste
05/03/09 21:30
Yesterday was a bit of a write off with heavy rain all day. This morning it was cloudy but fine with a relatively high water level. Just perfect for the trip on Cora Mae from YCA to Club Nautico Sudeste.
I cycled up to Beccar station, took the train down to Retiro and cycled round to YCA.
Tortoise on the verge at YCA.
We left just after 10:30.
Schatzi on deck leaving YCA.
MSC Sinfonia in Darsena Norte.
Container ship in Darsena Norte.
Conditions were almost perfect. We motor sailed on a rising tide with a gentle SSW breeze which died about halfway up. Using waypoints given to me at CNV there was rarely less than 3.0 mtres of water. Much more than when I did this trip in January. No doubt helped by the rain yesterday.
Approaching CN Sudeste after about 2.5 hours en route. It was virtually slack water with a very benign approach.
CN Sudeste launch waiting guide us in and assist with berthing.
CN Sudeste has a greater variety of moorings than CN Victoria where Kiriwina is berthed. Cora Mae was placed on visitor moorings in midstream.
Afterwards we went for a walk around San Fernando and San Isidro.
Günter and Schatzi at CN Victoria.
Cathederal and gardens at San Isidro.
Plazoleta Ospispo Aguirre - San Isidro
Colego San Juan El Precursor - San Isidro
Cathederal Tower - San Isidro
Terraced gardens and park leading to San Isidro Station - Tren de La Costa
San Isidro Station
I cycled up to Beccar station, took the train down to Retiro and cycled round to YCA.
Tortoise on the verge at YCA.
We left just after 10:30.
Schatzi on deck leaving YCA.
MSC Sinfonia in Darsena Norte.
Container ship in Darsena Norte.
Conditions were almost perfect. We motor sailed on a rising tide with a gentle SSW breeze which died about halfway up. Using waypoints given to me at CNV there was rarely less than 3.0 mtres of water. Much more than when I did this trip in January. No doubt helped by the rain yesterday.
Approaching CN Sudeste after about 2.5 hours en route. It was virtually slack water with a very benign approach.
CN Sudeste launch waiting guide us in and assist with berthing.
CN Sudeste has a greater variety of moorings than CN Victoria where Kiriwina is berthed. Cora Mae was placed on visitor moorings in midstream.
Afterwards we went for a walk around San Fernando and San Isidro.
Günter and Schatzi at CN Victoria.
Cathederal and gardens at San Isidro.
Plazoleta Ospispo Aguirre - San Isidro
Colego San Juan El Precursor - San Isidro
Cathederal Tower - San Isidro
Terraced gardens and park leading to San Isidro Station - Tren de La Costa
San Isidro Station
Rio San Antonio
01/03/09 20:24
After last night I slept in a bit. Ezequiel woke me up with an invitation to come aboard GOYO for a trip round to Rio San Antonio in the delta.
Skipper Dario (at centre) was joined by the Fredes family and friends making a total of 10 on board. GOYO is a Genesis 387 with two powerful Mercruiser engines.
Kiriwina looked quite small from the flying bridge on GOYO. It was quite a change to view the world afloat from a height of around 4m compared with around 1m on Kiriwina.
We left CNV around 13:00 as dark clouds gathered on the horizon. GOYO spanned the gap between two rows of moorings but Dario easily worked her round.
Passing Yacht Club Argentino (Norte). Long thin dark clouds indicate an imminent thunderstorm.
Just as in Spain bikinis tend to gather on the foredeck.
A very fast rib piloted by Ricardo coming alongside to pass over some gear.
Looking back towards Rio Lujan and a constant stream of boats.
View from our anchorage in a very busy Rio San Antonio. There were boats of every size and shape with those under way having to pick their way through a multitude of anchored boats. Buenos Aires, about 25km away, is clearly visible in the background.
It was quite shallow, around 2.5-3m with a brisk current around 2-3 knots. Dario streamed a long security line with lifebuoy for the swimmers to hang on to. The water was warm but care was needed in the strong current.
Goyo at anchor. Rio San Antonio.
Then the rain came. Lots of it complete with thunder and lightning.
The rain was warm as well so everybody continued swimming.
In between rain squalls the sun came out and throughout the afternoon Gabriela kept everyone well fed. Thanks Gabriela.
So far as I can gather there are no speed limits in the delta. However passing too close to anchored boats at speed attracts a chorus of whistles and obviously inconsiderate or dangerous navigation could lead to a conversation with the Prefetura who maintain a very high profile with four boats scattered along our four mile route.
Our route. There are very shallow banks near the junction with Rio San Antonio.
Back in San Fernando Dario cooked up another parilla after which I got to bed around 01:30. It was a lovely day. Thanks Dario, Gabriela and Ricardo y todos for your hospitality.
Skipper Dario (at centre) was joined by the Fredes family and friends making a total of 10 on board. GOYO is a Genesis 387 with two powerful Mercruiser engines.
Kiriwina looked quite small from the flying bridge on GOYO. It was quite a change to view the world afloat from a height of around 4m compared with around 1m on Kiriwina.
We left CNV around 13:00 as dark clouds gathered on the horizon. GOYO spanned the gap between two rows of moorings but Dario easily worked her round.
Passing Yacht Club Argentino (Norte). Long thin dark clouds indicate an imminent thunderstorm.
Just as in Spain bikinis tend to gather on the foredeck.
A very fast rib piloted by Ricardo coming alongside to pass over some gear.
Looking back towards Rio Lujan and a constant stream of boats.
View from our anchorage in a very busy Rio San Antonio. There were boats of every size and shape with those under way having to pick their way through a multitude of anchored boats. Buenos Aires, about 25km away, is clearly visible in the background.
It was quite shallow, around 2.5-3m with a brisk current around 2-3 knots. Dario streamed a long security line with lifebuoy for the swimmers to hang on to. The water was warm but care was needed in the strong current.
Goyo at anchor. Rio San Antonio.
Then the rain came. Lots of it complete with thunder and lightning.
The rain was warm as well so everybody continued swimming.
In between rain squalls the sun came out and throughout the afternoon Gabriela kept everyone well fed. Thanks Gabriela.
So far as I can gather there are no speed limits in the delta. However passing too close to anchored boats at speed attracts a chorus of whistles and obviously inconsiderate or dangerous navigation could lead to a conversation with the Prefetura who maintain a very high profile with four boats scattered along our four mile route.
Our route. There are very shallow banks near the junction with Rio San Antonio.
Back in San Fernando Dario cooked up another parilla after which I got to bed around 01:30. It was a lovely day. Thanks Dario, Gabriela and Ricardo y todos for your hospitality.
San Fernando to La Paloma
29/01/09 22:03
Up early to catch a train to Tigre where I was to take a fast ferry to Carmelo in Uruguay. I had some difficulty attracting the marinero's attention to get ashore but got there in the end.
I was a bit concerned about Kiriwina on her mooring given the big changes in water level recently. We shall see.
Left CNV at 06:40 a 30 min walk up to Victoria station and after a short wait caught a train to Tigre where I arrived at 07:30. Baggage is checked onto the Cacciola ferry and the boarding queue was quite long. It was raining with strong SE winds before departure at 08:30.
It was a comfortable and fast trip across to Carmelo where we arrived at 10:50. Lots of Argentine boats on Hidrografia moorings along the bank of Arroyo de las Vacas in Carmelo
Ageing ferry dock in Carmelo.
More moorings near the old swing bridge.
German built swing bridge at Carmelo.
After about an hour the bus to Montevideo arrived. There were frequent heavy rain showers.
Montevideo en route to the bus station.
The bus was 30 minutes late in arriving at Montevideo at 15:00. I missed my connection and the next bus to La Paloma was not until 18:00.
En route Montevideo/La Paloma passing a new terminal being constructed at Montevideo's Carrasco airport.
Frequent heavy rain en route to La Paloma where I arrived at 21:10 and took a taxi down to the dock to meet Gunter on Cora Mae. He wasn't there. Another taxi back into town where I found him in a cafe.
I was a bit concerned about Kiriwina on her mooring given the big changes in water level recently. We shall see.
Left CNV at 06:40 a 30 min walk up to Victoria station and after a short wait caught a train to Tigre where I arrived at 07:30. Baggage is checked onto the Cacciola ferry and the boarding queue was quite long. It was raining with strong SE winds before departure at 08:30.
It was a comfortable and fast trip across to Carmelo where we arrived at 10:50. Lots of Argentine boats on Hidrografia moorings along the bank of Arroyo de las Vacas in Carmelo
Ageing ferry dock in Carmelo.
More moorings near the old swing bridge.
German built swing bridge at Carmelo.
After about an hour the bus to Montevideo arrived. There were frequent heavy rain showers.
Montevideo en route to the bus station.
The bus was 30 minutes late in arriving at Montevideo at 15:00. I missed my connection and the next bus to La Paloma was not until 18:00.
En route Montevideo/La Paloma passing a new terminal being constructed at Montevideo's Carrasco airport.
Frequent heavy rain en route to La Paloma where I arrived at 21:10 and took a taxi down to the dock to meet Gunter on Cora Mae. He wasn't there. Another taxi back into town where I found him in a cafe.
A Little Flood
19/01/09 21:56
When I got up at 10:00 the water level had risen further. High water was not until 13:30 when the tide was predicted to reach 0.73m.
My mooring lines were bar tight, extremely tight, despite being slacked off last night. The bow line being tight enough to trim Kiriwina by the head. The water level was now very high and starting to cover paths and recreational areas.
I rowed around to check the tide guage. It was 2.6m and rising. Wow!
My trusty Brompton had it's second dunking in two weeks.
This is the picnic recreational area bordering the river Lujan.
The same spot two weeks ago.
Kiriwina on her mooring. The yellow pole marks the normal shoreline.
Entry breakwater submerged.
Eventually the tide reached 2.75m making a range of almost 3m over 24 hours compared with a predicted range of around 0.8m.
Later in the afternoon a very strong ebb was running in the river Lujan against a 15-20 knot SE wind. This produced short choppy seas combined with lots of debris.
High water debris from this morning.
My mooring lines were bar tight, extremely tight, despite being slacked off last night. The bow line being tight enough to trim Kiriwina by the head. The water level was now very high and starting to cover paths and recreational areas.
I rowed around to check the tide guage. It was 2.6m and rising. Wow!
My trusty Brompton had it's second dunking in two weeks.
This is the picnic recreational area bordering the river Lujan.
The same spot two weeks ago.
Kiriwina on her mooring. The yellow pole marks the normal shoreline.
Entry breakwater submerged.
Eventually the tide reached 2.75m making a range of almost 3m over 24 hours compared with a predicted range of around 0.8m.
Later in the afternoon a very strong ebb was running in the river Lujan against a 15-20 knot SE wind. This produced short choppy seas combined with lots of debris.
High water debris from this morning.
Around San Fernando
11/01/09 23:06
This afternoon I got the Brompton out and cycled up to Tigre and back through San Fernando and San Isidro.
It is a very attractive area considers itself the nautical capital of Argentina.
Passing through San Isidro I spotted this sign.
Geddit???
It is a very attractive area considers itself the nautical capital of Argentina.
Passing through San Isidro I spotted this sign.
Geddit???
Buenos Aires to San Fernando
10/01/09 22:10
Many thanks to Yacht Club Argentino for their hospitality over the past three weeks.
The strong winds overnight had eased and by the time I left YC Argentino at 13:25 there was virtually no wind. I took the coastal route exiting Antepuerto Norte to the north.
Northern Entrance
Container berth in Antepuerte Norte.
Outer breakwater.
Don Alejandro buoy was left to starboard at 15:40 and the motor turned off. With a brisk SE 15-20 knots it was good sailing with the main and yankee goose winged.
The River Plate has a surreal feel about it. I think it has something to do with the brown water. One is jut not used to large expanses of brown water. The contrast between river and sky is striking.
About 20 minutes later the river Plate began to shallow and at 16:50 Kiriwina slowly grounded in soft mud on a rising tide. She slewed to starboard beam onto the wind. I got the sails down and dropped the anchor to bring her head to wind and after a few minutes she was riding easier so I had a cup of tea and waited.
At 17:20 she floated clear and passage was resumed under motor and full yankee. It was like Piccadilly Circus for boats. There were heaps of them in a gloriously chaotic muddle. Boats running, boats tacking, boats anchored with people swimming in the fairway, boats motoring into the wind, boats racing and kids in optimists. Incredible! I've not seen this level of sailing activity since I left England.
Approaching river Lujan.
It is replicated ashore with commercial marinas and club nauticos and a truly impressive concentration of servicios maritimos. They can do anything here including building one a new boat.
Kiriwina touched bottom again approaching the river Lujan entrance but after a few minutes she floated clear.
When I got to the club (CNV) I was met by a marinero in a dinghy and escorted to my berth. Basically I have a bow and stern line provided by the club. These hold the boat a few meters off a micro-jetty. There is shore power, water and wifi all included plus the use of all facilities including excellent hot showers.
CNV moorings.
Thanks to Diego and Laura for inviting me over for an asado and some wine. I had a great evening talking about sailing and gleaning lots of local knowledge for trips to Uruguay and the Delta.
The strong winds overnight had eased and by the time I left YC Argentino at 13:25 there was virtually no wind. I took the coastal route exiting Antepuerto Norte to the north.
Northern Entrance
Container berth in Antepuerte Norte.
Outer breakwater.
Don Alejandro buoy was left to starboard at 15:40 and the motor turned off. With a brisk SE 15-20 knots it was good sailing with the main and yankee goose winged.
The River Plate has a surreal feel about it. I think it has something to do with the brown water. One is jut not used to large expanses of brown water. The contrast between river and sky is striking.
About 20 minutes later the river Plate began to shallow and at 16:50 Kiriwina slowly grounded in soft mud on a rising tide. She slewed to starboard beam onto the wind. I got the sails down and dropped the anchor to bring her head to wind and after a few minutes she was riding easier so I had a cup of tea and waited.
At 17:20 she floated clear and passage was resumed under motor and full yankee. It was like Piccadilly Circus for boats. There were heaps of them in a gloriously chaotic muddle. Boats running, boats tacking, boats anchored with people swimming in the fairway, boats motoring into the wind, boats racing and kids in optimists. Incredible! I've not seen this level of sailing activity since I left England.
Approaching river Lujan.
It is replicated ashore with commercial marinas and club nauticos and a truly impressive concentration of servicios maritimos. They can do anything here including building one a new boat.
Kiriwina touched bottom again approaching the river Lujan entrance but after a few minutes she floated clear.
When I got to the club (CNV) I was met by a marinero in a dinghy and escorted to my berth. Basically I have a bow and stern line provided by the club. These hold the boat a few meters off a micro-jetty. There is shore power, water and wifi all included plus the use of all facilities including excellent hot showers.
CNV moorings.
Thanks to Diego and Laura for inviting me over for an asado and some wine. I had a great evening talking about sailing and gleaning lots of local knowledge for trips to Uruguay and the Delta.