El Calafate - Todos Glaciares - Upsala

Up early this morning. The bus picked me up at 07:05 and then went round the houses picking up other passengers. We finally cleared Calafate at 08:00 and arrived at Puerto Bandera 30 minutes later.

Right off the bus we had to pat another Arg$60. This is a national park. Then we boarded our Fernandez-Cambell tour caramaran. Both our park and boat tickets were carefully checked before boarding. Bracing this was not. The seating area is fully enclosed with airline style seats and lots of video screens which later showed our GPS track and topography. It was comfortably warm. It was a sheep like experience.

Before departure they announced that part of the route would likely be blocked by heavy ice.



Our departure point at Puerto Bandera.


At 09:00 we were off.

Looking back at Boca del Diablo.



Proceeding along Brazo Norte towards the Upsala glacier.


Built by Unidelta Astilleros in Tigre near Buenos Aires.


Southern shore of Brazo Norte.


Detailed GPS routing on the monitors.


Plus a detailed map on display.


Passengers were allowed out on deck. Not surprisingly it was cold and most stayed inside.


Boca del Diablo more clearly defined.


Twin diesels pushed us along at a cracking rate.


Only now did the sun clear the mountains as we began to encounter icebergs. It was cold.


We had a running commentary in English and Spanish as points of interest were passed.

Glaciers are formed by snow being compressed into ice over some 15 years. They are not formed of frozen water. Hence the very blue/green appearance due, we were told by by the heavier density of glacial ice (less air bubbles).


Approaching Brazo Upsala.


Lots of ice here blocking Brazo Upsala. We would not be going to the Upsala glacier. Brazo Upsala is some 700ft deep and the front of the glacier is afloat. When sections brak off huge bergs are formed.


We went pretty close to the bergs. About 10m at times.


Then we turned down Brazo Spegazzini bound for Glacier Spegazzini