Ushuaia
Hostel Los Calafates Double Room Arg$130 (£22) per night.
Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia
Fare to Ushuaia Arg$180 purchased at 08:35
San Carlos de Bariloche
We slept in and decided to pass a quiet day in Bariloche after missing the boat to Isla Victoria.
The hostel gave us another room when they were unable to repair the heating.
The hostel gave us another room when they were unable to repair the heating.
Villa la Angostura to San Carlos de Bariloche
La Sinfonia apartment hotel. One night Arg$200 (£34) for three.
Our trusty Chevrolet Corsa.
Main street Villa la Angostura.
From Villa La Angostura it was only 80km down to Bariloche mostly along the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
The scenery was again stunning and we stopped frequently.
Approaching Bariloche at the east end of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
Central Bariloche.
Bariloche marina on Lago Nahuel Huapi.
At Bariloche we had lunch then parted company with Marcus who headed off into the mountains. Thanks for the lift Marcus.
We decided to stay in Bariloche a day or two and checked into a private room at Las Moiras Hostel. Cost Arg$60 per night.
We had an enjoyable late dinner before returning to Las Moiras.
There was a heating malfunction. IE there wasn't any heating. By this time the outside temperature had dropped to zero. They did, however, have lots of extra blankets.
Our trusty Chevrolet Corsa.
Main street Villa la Angostura.
From Villa La Angostura it was only 80km down to Bariloche mostly along the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
The scenery was again stunning and we stopped frequently.
Approaching Bariloche at the east end of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
Central Bariloche.
Bariloche marina on Lago Nahuel Huapi.
At Bariloche we had lunch then parted company with Marcus who headed off into the mountains. Thanks for the lift Marcus.
We decided to stay in Bariloche a day or two and checked into a private room at Las Moiras Hostel. Cost Arg$60 per night.
We had an enjoyable late dinner before returning to Las Moiras.
There was a heating malfunction. IE there wasn't any heating. By this time the outside temperature had dropped to zero. They did, however, have lots of extra blankets.
St Martin de Los Andes to Villa la Angostura
Our hotel in San Martin de los Andes.
Main street San Martin de los Andes.
Travellers bound south normally check road conditions with the tourist office. They were a bit surprised that we planned to travel to Villa la Angostura in a Chevrolet Corsa.
We were now in the spectacular Argentine lake district travelling on route 234. This road was about 50% unpaved and very muddy with extensive potholing in places.
Heavy rain would make the route very difficult but the weather was fine and the scenery spectacular.
Marcus and self on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi with snow topped mountains behind us.
Lago Nahuel Huapi
We travelled slowly arriving in Villa la Angostura late in the afternoon. It is a lovely town on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
This time we rented a furnished cabina at "La Sinfonia" for Arg$200 per night. Excellent place and Marcus cooked a very tasty beef bourguignon.
Main street San Martin de los Andes.
Travellers bound south normally check road conditions with the tourist office. They were a bit surprised that we planned to travel to Villa la Angostura in a Chevrolet Corsa.
We were now in the spectacular Argentine lake district travelling on route 234. This road was about 50% unpaved and very muddy with extensive potholing in places.
Heavy rain would make the route very difficult but the weather was fine and the scenery spectacular.
Marcus and self on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi with snow topped mountains behind us.
Lago Nahuel Huapi
We travelled slowly arriving in Villa la Angostura late in the afternoon. It is a lovely town on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
This time we rented a furnished cabina at "La Sinfonia" for Arg$200 per night. Excellent place and Marcus cooked a very tasty beef bourguignon.
Villa Pehuenia to St Martin de Los Andes
A view from our apartment window in Villa Pehuenia.
And another.
We had heard that it might be possible to go horseback riding in the area. It wasn't and absent anything else to do we decided to check out and see about leaving town.
We walked about for a while and discovered that the next bus out was at 23:30.
There was a rail service here at some point.
Curious trees.
Lago Aluminé.
Roadside map.
Lago Aluminé.
In the event we started walking out of town then got a lift 4 km to a road junction where Gilles suggested we hitch hike. Having not done this for 40 years I was unsure but it was a good call.
We came in on this route yesterday.
We plan to leave by this route.
Waiting for a lift.
Gilles was right. A little later Marcus, from Switzerland, arrived in a Chevrolet Corsa and gave us a lift. He had been forced to divert due to protest road blocks by indigenous Mapuche residents.
We followed the Aluminé river south through wild and spectacular country.
Gravel roads...
Giving way to good quality asphalt.
Our plan had been simply to get a lift to Aluminé some 20km down the road. Marcus was bound for Bariloche and was happy for us to ride with him. We gratefully accepted.
Aluminé river.
Back on the gravel.
Along the way we had a few rain showers. Then, about 20k north of Junin de los Andes, we ran into another Mapuche roadblock.
Or rather a bridge block. Travellers could walk across the bridge but vehicles were stopped.
This chap tested the capability of his 4x4 trying to bypass the bridge. Not a good plan but the police later hauled him out.
Travellers walking across to a waiting coach.
Local press reporting events.
Our bridge featured.
After two hours the blockade was lifted and we continued on to Junin de los Andes where we had a coffee and decided to press on to San Martin de los Andes.
San Martin was a lovely spot. We stayed at Hosteria Cumelen. A nice enough place where we paid Arg$165 for a 3 bed suite to a very grumpy owner.
We dined well at a nearby restaurant.
And another.
We had heard that it might be possible to go horseback riding in the area. It wasn't and absent anything else to do we decided to check out and see about leaving town.
We walked about for a while and discovered that the next bus out was at 23:30.
There was a rail service here at some point.
Curious trees.
Lago Aluminé.
Roadside map.
Lago Aluminé.
In the event we started walking out of town then got a lift 4 km to a road junction where Gilles suggested we hitch hike. Having not done this for 40 years I was unsure but it was a good call.
We came in on this route yesterday.
We plan to leave by this route.
Waiting for a lift.
Gilles was right. A little later Marcus, from Switzerland, arrived in a Chevrolet Corsa and gave us a lift. He had been forced to divert due to protest road blocks by indigenous Mapuche residents.
We followed the Aluminé river south through wild and spectacular country.
Gravel roads...
Giving way to good quality asphalt.
Our plan had been simply to get a lift to Aluminé some 20km down the road. Marcus was bound for Bariloche and was happy for us to ride with him. We gratefully accepted.
Aluminé river.
Back on the gravel.
Along the way we had a few rain showers. Then, about 20k north of Junin de los Andes, we ran into another Mapuche roadblock.
Or rather a bridge block. Travellers could walk across the bridge but vehicles were stopped.
This chap tested the capability of his 4x4 trying to bypass the bridge. Not a good plan but the police later hauled him out.
Travellers walking across to a waiting coach.
Local press reporting events.
Our bridge featured.
After two hours the blockade was lifted and we continued on to Junin de los Andes where we had a coffee and decided to press on to San Martin de los Andes.
San Martin was a lovely spot. We stayed at Hosteria Cumelen. A nice enough place where we paid Arg$165 for a 3 bed suite to a very grumpy owner.
We dined well at a nearby restaurant.
Neuquen to Villa Pehuenia
After sunrise we could see just how vast and flat this part of the country is. It is bleak with few animals and the air is noticably drier.
Police checkpoint en route to Neuquen.
We arrived in Neuquen at 11:00. This is only a transit stop as we never left the bus station. Our next destination is Villa Pehuenia near the Chilean border and we will travel with Albus at a cost of Arg$65.
We had a 2 1/2 hour wait and had a good lunch in the terminal.
Gilles about to board.
On board for a 13:30 departure. Albus use similar buses to Chevalier but this one was older and somewhat tired.
As we proceeded the landscape rapidly became mountainous as we climbed into the Andes.
Our first gaucho.
We passed though CutralCo, Zapala and Aluminé. At times asphalt gave way to gravel as the road steepened with many switchbacks. Very dramatic scenery with some cows and sheep appearing.
We arrived at Villa Pehuenia around 20:20 after some 7 hours. Not a lot was open. It seems we have arrived in between the end of trekking/fishing and the ski season.
Some helpful locals take us to Apartamentos Don Piri, just outside town, where we booked an apartment. Later we ate at Los Troncos, a bit uppish on price but not bad given that they were the only place open. Our apartment cost Arg$150 for two and our meal Arg$140 for two.
My Movistar mobile does not work here but Claro does.
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Police checkpoint en route to Neuquen.
We arrived in Neuquen at 11:00. This is only a transit stop as we never left the bus station. Our next destination is Villa Pehuenia near the Chilean border and we will travel with Albus at a cost of Arg$65.
We had a 2 1/2 hour wait and had a good lunch in the terminal.
Gilles about to board.
On board for a 13:30 departure. Albus use similar buses to Chevalier but this one was older and somewhat tired.
As we proceeded the landscape rapidly became mountainous as we climbed into the Andes.
Our first gaucho.
We passed though CutralCo, Zapala and Aluminé. At times asphalt gave way to gravel as the road steepened with many switchbacks. Very dramatic scenery with some cows and sheep appearing.
We arrived at Villa Pehuenia around 20:20 after some 7 hours. Not a lot was open. It seems we have arrived in between the end of trekking/fishing and the ski season.
Some helpful locals take us to Apartamentos Don Piri, just outside town, where we booked an apartment. Later we ate at Los Troncos, a bit uppish on price but not bad given that they were the only place open. Our apartment cost Arg$150 for two and our meal Arg$140 for two.
My Movistar mobile does not work here but Claro does.
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Buenos Aires to Neuquen
Today was the beginning of our Patagonia road trip. For the first leg from Buenos Aires to Neuquen we are booked on Chevalier leaving Retiro at 20:00. The cost for Executivo class is Arg$170. We have made no other bookings and plan to wing it as we go.
Retiro Bus Station - Buenos Aires.
Our Chevalier coach.
On board awaiting departure.
My travelling companion, Gilles.
Our route will take us south and west through the suburbs of Buenos Aires, Mercedes, Chivilcoy, Pehuajo, Santa Rosa, Caranche, Casa de Piedra, General Roca and on to Neuquen.
Retiro Bus Station - Buenos Aires.
Our Chevalier coach.
On board awaiting departure.
My travelling companion, Gilles.
Our route will take us south and west through the suburbs of Buenos Aires, Mercedes, Chivilcoy, Pehuajo, Santa Rosa, Caranche, Casa de Piedra, General Roca and on to Neuquen.
Delta Rowing Trip
Another day out rowing in the Tigre Delta. Midweek there is much less traffic in general and almost none in some of the smaller tributaries.
After 14km of rowing I had lunch at the Alpenhaus restaurant. An Austrian restaurant with some rooms tucked away in the middle of the delta.
Sadly the restaurant charged like wounded bulls for not a lot of food. The location was lovely though.
They just had to have one of these.
View from our table.
This path ran through the grounds but I never saw the bridge.
The rowing boat. They are quite fast if one gets the rowing technique right but are a tad unstable so care is needed when moving about the boat. Generally traffic in the delta slows for rowing boats but not always. With a heavy wash, particularly in shallow water, they can ship a lot of water quite quickly.
The route covered 24km and took about 7.5 hours with a lunch stop.
After 14km of rowing I had lunch at the Alpenhaus restaurant. An Austrian restaurant with some rooms tucked away in the middle of the delta.
Sadly the restaurant charged like wounded bulls for not a lot of food. The location was lovely though.
They just had to have one of these.
View from our table.
This path ran through the grounds but I never saw the bridge.
The rowing boat. They are quite fast if one gets the rowing technique right but are a tad unstable so care is needed when moving about the boat. Generally traffic in the delta slows for rowing boats but not always. With a heavy wash, particularly in shallow water, they can ship a lot of water quite quickly.
The route covered 24km and took about 7.5 hours with a lunch stop.
More Berth Hunting
Continuing the search for a safe berth Gilles and I took my dinghy and motored up the Rio Lujan to Tigre looking for a suitable place.
My Suzuki 2.2hp completed the round trip of about 12km but not without the old problem of refusing to run properly when hot. We got back though. After the motor was restarted it would splutter along for 5 or ten minutes and then start to run normally albeit with reduced power.
Success this time with a tranquil little Club Nautico on the opposite of the Rio Lujan about half way between Tigre and San Fernando.
My Suzuki 2.2hp completed the round trip of about 12km but not without the old problem of refusing to run properly when hot. We got back though. After the motor was restarted it would splutter along for 5 or ten minutes and then start to run normally albeit with reduced power.
Success this time with a tranquil little Club Nautico on the opposite of the Rio Lujan about half way between Tigre and San Fernando.
Free Moorings
13/04/09 21:52 Filed in: Argentina | San Isidro
Free moorings in the old port at San Isidro if one is lucky enough to get a place.
This little plaque was tacked away near the station in San Isidro. It struck me as slightly odd that the King of Spain would be doing this.
This little plaque was tacked away near the station in San Isidro. It struck me as slightly odd that the King of Spain would be doing this.
Mobile Phone
11/04/09 16:51 Filed in: Argentina | San Fernando
Not wanting to be without a phone I got up early and cycled into San Isidro. My old Sony Ericsson which had suffered from an intermittent blank screen now seemed to work properly.
I was on the Personal network and wanted to get a replacement SIM. Their office being closed for Semana Santa I bought a Movistar SIM for A$10 and topped it up with A$20. SIM cards are very cheap here but calls gobble credit at a rate which I find hard to reconcile with published tariffs.
Back to the boat where I spent a lazy afternoon on the aft deck reading Dreaming of Jupiter by Ted Simon. He rode a Triumph motorcycle around the world 1974 and, aged 70, decided to do it again in 2001.
I was on the Personal network and wanted to get a replacement SIM. Their office being closed for Semana Santa I bought a Movistar SIM for A$10 and topped it up with A$20. SIM cards are very cheap here but calls gobble credit at a rate which I find hard to reconcile with published tariffs.
Back to the boat where I spent a lazy afternoon on the aft deck reading Dreaming of Jupiter by Ted Simon. He rode a Triumph motorcycle around the world 1974 and, aged 70, decided to do it again in 2001.
San Isidro - Old Port
10/04/09 21:48 Filed in: Argentina | San Isidro
This morning I decided to give my newly repaired dinghy a run in the Rio Lujan. The outboard started at once and ran well. Later the old problem of refusing to restart when hot re-appeared.
Anyway, I motored down to the old port at San Isidro where Menkar is moored. The port used to be the main import terminal for Uruguyan sand but silted up and is now occupied by a selection of Club Nauticos.
Shallow parts around the old terminal with derelict crumbling quays are used for free mooring by a small community of mainly aging boats. Several berths are obstructed by sunken yachts.
On the way back I managed to drop my mobile phone into the Rio Lujan. Quite how I am not sure but it has gone.
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Anyway, I motored down to the old port at San Isidro where Menkar is moored. The port used to be the main import terminal for Uruguyan sand but silted up and is now occupied by a selection of Club Nauticos.
Shallow parts around the old terminal with derelict crumbling quays are used for free mooring by a small community of mainly aging boats. Several berths are obstructed by sunken yachts.
On the way back I managed to drop my mobile phone into the Rio Lujan. Quite how I am not sure but it has gone.
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Rowing in the Tigre Delta
A new treat today. I was invited up to Tigre Boat Club for a trip into the delta in a proper (Henley style) rowing boat. This photo of the club was taken on my first visit to Tigre in May 2008.
I've done a lot of rowing over the years but never in a boat like this. The oars are very long with the handles overlapping. Technique is everything and I had little of it. Things got a bit tangled up at times but after a few hours I improved a bit. Much more practice is needed.
These boats are surprisingly fast and are a tranquil way to wander about the smaller waterways in the delta which are quite lovely in places. On the larger waterways one is frequently passed by fast boats which usually, but not always, slow down. Either way it is necessary to stop rowing and feather the oars until the wash subsides.
Passing Sarmiento's house, again.
I've done a lot of rowing over the years but never in a boat like this. The oars are very long with the handles overlapping. Technique is everything and I had little of it. Things got a bit tangled up at times but after a few hours I improved a bit. Much more practice is needed.
These boats are surprisingly fast and are a tranquil way to wander about the smaller waterways in the delta which are quite lovely in places. On the larger waterways one is frequently passed by fast boats which usually, but not always, slow down. Either way it is necessary to stop rowing and feather the oars until the wash subsides.
Passing Sarmiento's house, again.
Dinghy Repaired An excellent job. Thanks Maria.
Back to Astilleros Sandokan in San Fernando where my dinghy repairs were almost complete.
Maria had waited on the seat strops because replacement necessitated a change of colour from the original and she wanted my approval.
New seat strops.
This done the new strops were quickly fitted and with the dinghy now in better than new condition Maria took me and the dinghy back to CNV with instructions not to use the dinghy for at least 24 hours.
In addition to new seat strops the rubbing strake was re-glued in places and a reinforcing strip of PVC added to the underwater hull at the stern.
An excellent job. Thanks Maria.
Maria had waited on the seat strops because replacement necessitated a change of colour from the original and she wanted my approval.
New seat strops.
This done the new strops were quickly fitted and with the dinghy now in better than new condition Maria took me and the dinghy back to CNV with instructions not to use the dinghy for at least 24 hours.
In addition to new seat strops the rubbing strake was re-glued in places and a reinforcing strip of PVC added to the underwater hull at the stern.
An excellent job. Thanks Maria.
Berth Hunting - Tigre
At some point Gilles and I are planning a trip to Bariloche and possible Chile. However he needed to find a secure berth where he could leave Menkar unattended for a few weeks.
We cycled up to Tigre where Gilles had heard there were reasonably priced moorings available. One small problem emerged when we got there. The moorings were on the other side of the river and it was not immediately apparent how to get there.
Just near the Italian Rowing Club
There was a small dock used by locals to moor their boats while on shopping trips. Gilles talked one of them into taking us across. With a large amount of mission creep this turned into ferrying us around for about two hours.
First stop was Tigre Sailing Club across the Rio Lujan from Tigre and quite exposed to wash. I didn't like the look of it although four French ocean going yachts were moored there. The facilities seemed basic and a good deal of wash entered the moorings causing boats move about quite violently.
Our ferryman, Alfredo, had to go home to drop off his shopping. This took us into small tranquil waterways off the day trip routes and very secluded.
Alfredo's house in the delta...
...and his dock.
Not quite sure what this is. Some sort of house I think.
Rio Sarmiento
A private beach on Rio Sarmiento.
Next stop was Amarras Marugo at the junction of Rios Sarmiento and Lujan. This was a nice sheltered spot. Unfortunately they were full but a new boat yard for shore storage and repairs was under construction.
Then we went back out into the Rio Lujan and on to Club Nautico Cinave. A large sheltered facility and reportedly cheap. The facilities appeared very basic and the water, particularly further inside, was very very dirty. Not a place I would want to stay for too long but possibly OK to leave the boat and travel.
Nothing firm was arranged but Gilles came away with two possibilities. Alfredo dropped us off and refused any payment. Thanks Alfredo.
We cycled up to Tigre where Gilles had heard there were reasonably priced moorings available. One small problem emerged when we got there. The moorings were on the other side of the river and it was not immediately apparent how to get there.
Just near the Italian Rowing Club
There was a small dock used by locals to moor their boats while on shopping trips. Gilles talked one of them into taking us across. With a large amount of mission creep this turned into ferrying us around for about two hours.
First stop was Tigre Sailing Club across the Rio Lujan from Tigre and quite exposed to wash. I didn't like the look of it although four French ocean going yachts were moored there. The facilities seemed basic and a good deal of wash entered the moorings causing boats move about quite violently.
Our ferryman, Alfredo, had to go home to drop off his shopping. This took us into small tranquil waterways off the day trip routes and very secluded.
Alfredo's house in the delta...
...and his dock.
Not quite sure what this is. Some sort of house I think.
Rio Sarmiento
A private beach on Rio Sarmiento.
Next stop was Amarras Marugo at the junction of Rios Sarmiento and Lujan. This was a nice sheltered spot. Unfortunately they were full but a new boat yard for shore storage and repairs was under construction.
Then we went back out into the Rio Lujan and on to Club Nautico Cinave. A large sheltered facility and reportedly cheap. The facilities appeared very basic and the water, particularly further inside, was very very dirty. Not a place I would want to stay for too long but possibly OK to leave the boat and travel.
Nothing firm was arranged but Gilles came away with two possibilities. Alfredo dropped us off and refused any payment. Thanks Alfredo.
A Drinking Club with a Running Problem
I was invited along to the bi-weekly running of the Buenos Aires Hash by a skipper who also lives on his boat at CNV. He gave me a lift down to Buenos Aires on the back of his motorbike. We drove most of the way down Libertador with me getting a panoramic view from the pillion.
The Hash is a disparate group of expats and Argentines who go for a run every two weeks. Each run is organised by a different member who also handles the catering arrangements afterwards. A $15 peso fee is collected to help cover costs. Before the run a 10km trail (shorter for walkers and the less fit), complete with false leads and dead ends, is marked with flour.
We set off from Plaza St Martin and ran through Recoleta, fortunately an area I know reasonably well. Everyone ran at their own pace and I kept up quite well despite running in deck shoes which attracted much ridicule. If one is reasonably fit and can run the distance this is a good way to see Buenos Aires.
Out towards MALBA we were passing through a residential area with me following a couple of chaps about 50 yards ahead and not paying much attention to the marks.
I followed them all the way back to Plaza St Martin and was feeling pretty pleased with myself at having run the distance. As we were first back I was puzzled as to what happened to the fast runners. In fact I hadn't run the whole course, only a bit over half of it.
Once everyone got back drinks were served. A detailed post mortem took place and various formalities, including a welcome for new runners, were concluded. As each item was concluded toasts were drunk and songs sung. All in english.
Hash Post Mortem
Formalities complete we moved to a lovely apartment overlooking the rear garden of Palacio St Martin which I had visited in July 2008. Lunch was outstanding and if I'm not traveling south I will try to run the full distance next time.
Dinghy in for Repairs
As arranged Maria and her husband from Astilleros Sandokan arrived at CNV bang on 10:00 to collect my dinghy. I sat in the back of their pickup on the way back to the workshop.
Once there the dinghy was inflated and work started straight away.
Maria using a hot air gun (paint stripper type) to remove a damaged seat strop.
Badly worn seat strop.
Astilleros Sandokan repair old dinghies and build new ones. They even make their own pumps with which to inflate their dinghies.
I left them to it and they promised to have the work finished next tuesday.
Once there the dinghy was inflated and work started straight away.
Maria using a hot air gun (paint stripper type) to remove a damaged seat strop.
Badly worn seat strop.
Astilleros Sandokan repair old dinghies and build new ones. They even make their own pumps with which to inflate their dinghies.
I left them to it and they promised to have the work finished next tuesday.
Cooling Manifold Failure
For almost a year I have been getting increasing amounts of water in the engine bilge when under power.
Today I confirmed that the suspected part, a cooling water/exhaust outlet pipe, had indeed failed.
This is a two part pipe. Exhaust gases exit via the inner pipe while cooling water enters via the outer pipe. I had two problems.
The outer pipe had cracked at the weld allowing cooling water to run down the engine into the bilge.
.
The inner pipe was "pepper potted" to such an extent that water leaked into it and potentially back into the engine. Not good!
Exhaust manifold showing heavy corrosion from leaking cooling water.
I took the piece down to the local Yanmar importer Regnicoli. They had none in stock and the part would have to be imported from Yanmar in the USA. For this little piece of pipe the price was an eye watering A$1700 (£320).
Talk about captive customers. Yanmar are not known for cheap spare part prices but this seemed ridiculous and I decided to explore alternatives.
Today I confirmed that the suspected part, a cooling water/exhaust outlet pipe, had indeed failed.
This is a two part pipe. Exhaust gases exit via the inner pipe while cooling water enters via the outer pipe. I had two problems.
The outer pipe had cracked at the weld allowing cooling water to run down the engine into the bilge.
.
The inner pipe was "pepper potted" to such an extent that water leaked into it and potentially back into the engine. Not good!
Exhaust manifold showing heavy corrosion from leaking cooling water.
I took the piece down to the local Yanmar importer Regnicoli. They had none in stock and the part would have to be imported from Yanmar in the USA. For this little piece of pipe the price was an eye watering A$1700 (£320).
Talk about captive customers. Yanmar are not known for cheap spare part prices but this seemed ridiculous and I decided to explore alternatives.