La Paloma
31/01/09 22:34 Filed in: Uruguay
More bad weather and strong winds.
We put out another stern line to the buoy and added a midships spring.
Ominous sky over La Paloma harbour.
Cora Mae at her mooring in La Paloma.
During another walk ashore we met Arturo and his family from Buenos Aires. Aturo is ex Argentine merchant navy and used to skipper deep see trawlers out of Ushuaia.
Later we topped up with diesel. The forecast is for strong SW winds followed by light north easterlies.
We put out another stern line to the buoy and added a midships spring.
Ominous sky over La Paloma harbour.
Cora Mae at her mooring in La Paloma.
During another walk ashore we met Arturo and his family from Buenos Aires. Aturo is ex Argentine merchant navy and used to skipper deep see trawlers out of Ushuaia.
Later we topped up with diesel. The forecast is for strong SW winds followed by light north easterlies.
La Paloma
30/01/09 22:29 Filed in: Uruguay
The weather did not look too good this morning..
Some swell worked in and the boat bouncing a lot at her moorings. We had one line to a steel buoy astern and two bow lines ashore. The stern line was starting to chafe on the buoy.
La Paloma harbour looked pretty bleak and the shore facilities on offer were generally pretty poor. There was hot water in the showers though.
In the afternoon with the weather improving we went into town.
The town is quite small and looks rather tired. It is not, however, without its charms which include spectacular beaches which attract large numbers of mainly Argentine holiday makers.
It being more than 2km into town we rented a couple of bikes.
La Paloma lighthouse.
Looking north from the lighthouse along the rocky coast towards La Paloma harbour.
More rocky coast.
Looking south. The rocky coast gives way to a long sandy beach.
More from the lighthouse.
Interior lighthouse stairs.
The first lighthouse keeper and his wife.
Sea lion ashore not far from the lighthouse.
Gunter decided to pose with him.
The sea lion was having none of it.
Whale skeleton.
Unusual blue roof tiles.
Main street La Paloma.
Self in the main street.
Some swell worked in and the boat bouncing a lot at her moorings. We had one line to a steel buoy astern and two bow lines ashore. The stern line was starting to chafe on the buoy.
La Paloma harbour looked pretty bleak and the shore facilities on offer were generally pretty poor. There was hot water in the showers though.
In the afternoon with the weather improving we went into town.
The town is quite small and looks rather tired. It is not, however, without its charms which include spectacular beaches which attract large numbers of mainly Argentine holiday makers.
It being more than 2km into town we rented a couple of bikes.
La Paloma lighthouse.
Looking north from the lighthouse along the rocky coast towards La Paloma harbour.
More rocky coast.
Looking south. The rocky coast gives way to a long sandy beach.
More from the lighthouse.
Interior lighthouse stairs.
The first lighthouse keeper and his wife.
Sea lion ashore not far from the lighthouse.
Gunter decided to pose with him.
The sea lion was having none of it.
Whale skeleton.
Unusual blue roof tiles.
Main street La Paloma.
Self in the main street.
San Fernando to La Paloma
Up early to catch a train to Tigre where I was to take a fast ferry to Carmelo in Uruguay. I had some difficulty attracting the marinero's attention to get ashore but got there in the end.
I was a bit concerned about Kiriwina on her mooring given the big changes in water level recently. We shall see.
Left CNV at 06:40 a 30 min walk up to Victoria station and after a short wait caught a train to Tigre where I arrived at 07:30. Baggage is checked onto the Cacciola ferry and the boarding queue was quite long. It was raining with strong SE winds before departure at 08:30.
It was a comfortable and fast trip across to Carmelo where we arrived at 10:50. Lots of Argentine boats on Hidrografia moorings along the bank of Arroyo de las Vacas in Carmelo
Ageing ferry dock in Carmelo.
More moorings near the old swing bridge.
German built swing bridge at Carmelo.
After about an hour the bus to Montevideo arrived. There were frequent heavy rain showers.
Montevideo en route to the bus station.
The bus was 30 minutes late in arriving at Montevideo at 15:00. I missed my connection and the next bus to La Paloma was not until 18:00.
En route Montevideo/La Paloma passing a new terminal being constructed at Montevideo's Carrasco airport.
Frequent heavy rain en route to La Paloma where I arrived at 21:10 and took a taxi down to the dock to meet Gunter on Cora Mae. He wasn't there. Another taxi back into town where I found him in a cafe.
I was a bit concerned about Kiriwina on her mooring given the big changes in water level recently. We shall see.
Left CNV at 06:40 a 30 min walk up to Victoria station and after a short wait caught a train to Tigre where I arrived at 07:30. Baggage is checked onto the Cacciola ferry and the boarding queue was quite long. It was raining with strong SE winds before departure at 08:30.
It was a comfortable and fast trip across to Carmelo where we arrived at 10:50. Lots of Argentine boats on Hidrografia moorings along the bank of Arroyo de las Vacas in Carmelo
Ageing ferry dock in Carmelo.
More moorings near the old swing bridge.
German built swing bridge at Carmelo.
After about an hour the bus to Montevideo arrived. There were frequent heavy rain showers.
Montevideo en route to the bus station.
The bus was 30 minutes late in arriving at Montevideo at 15:00. I missed my connection and the next bus to La Paloma was not until 18:00.
En route Montevideo/La Paloma passing a new terminal being constructed at Montevideo's Carrasco airport.
Frequent heavy rain en route to La Paloma where I arrived at 21:10 and took a taxi down to the dock to meet Gunter on Cora Mae. He wasn't there. Another taxi back into town where I found him in a cafe.
Australia Day
25/01/09 22:50 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
Somebody belonging to Couch Surfers had arranged an Australia Day picnic in Buenos Aires. It was an open invitation so I donned my 15 year old St Kilda t-shirt and went along to have a look.
It was mostly gringo backpackers but quite a few Argentines and assorted other gringos showed up as well.
The organiser had obtained supplies of Australia's national dish, vegemite. Bread and vegemite were duly offered to all Argentines and other non Australians all of whom were photographed while they tasted this wonderful food.
Reactions were mixed with not all fully appreciating the unique culinary experience on offer. These photos must be somewhere online but I've yet to find them.
Around 21:00 the park was closed and I went off to dinner with Neil from Australia, Antonio from Buenos Aires and another chap from New York.
For the second time I got the number 60 bus back to San Fernando. This time I stayed awake and got off at the right stop.
It was mostly gringo backpackers but quite a few Argentines and assorted other gringos showed up as well.
The organiser had obtained supplies of Australia's national dish, vegemite. Bread and vegemite were duly offered to all Argentines and other non Australians all of whom were photographed while they tasted this wonderful food.
Reactions were mixed with not all fully appreciating the unique culinary experience on offer. These photos must be somewhere online but I've yet to find them.
Around 21:00 the park was closed and I went off to dinner with Neil from Australia, Antonio from Buenos Aires and another chap from New York.
For the second time I got the number 60 bus back to San Fernando. This time I stayed awake and got off at the right stop.
Broken Spoke
I decided to cycle up to Tigre. The most direct route is via Ave Libertador but this sign is displayed at regular intervals.
Unsure whether it meant don't cycle on the road or on the footpath I asked a policeman who confirmed the former. He said Libertador was very dangerous for bicycles.
Once in Tigre while enjoying a juice from Distruta la Fruta I noticed a spoke had broken on the back wheel. No problem. Delta Cycles in Tigre would have it fixed by Friday.
Unsure whether it meant don't cycle on the road or on the footpath I asked a policeman who confirmed the former. He said Libertador was very dangerous for bicycles.
Once in Tigre while enjoying a juice from Distruta la Fruta I noticed a spoke had broken on the back wheel. No problem. Delta Cycles in Tigre would have it fixed by Friday.
A Little Flood
19/01/09 21:56 Filed in: Argentina | San Fernando
When I got up at 10:00 the water level had risen further. High water was not until 13:30 when the tide was predicted to reach 0.73m.
My mooring lines were bar tight, extremely tight, despite being slacked off last night. The bow line being tight enough to trim Kiriwina by the head. The water level was now very high and starting to cover paths and recreational areas.
I rowed around to check the tide guage. It was 2.6m and rising. Wow!
My trusty Brompton had it's second dunking in two weeks.
This is the picnic recreational area bordering the river Lujan.
The same spot two weeks ago.
Kiriwina on her mooring. The yellow pole marks the normal shoreline.
Entry breakwater submerged.
Eventually the tide reached 2.75m making a range of almost 3m over 24 hours compared with a predicted range of around 0.8m.
Later in the afternoon a very strong ebb was running in the river Lujan against a 15-20 knot SE wind. This produced short choppy seas combined with lots of debris.
High water debris from this morning.
My mooring lines were bar tight, extremely tight, despite being slacked off last night. The bow line being tight enough to trim Kiriwina by the head. The water level was now very high and starting to cover paths and recreational areas.
I rowed around to check the tide guage. It was 2.6m and rising. Wow!
My trusty Brompton had it's second dunking in two weeks.
This is the picnic recreational area bordering the river Lujan.
The same spot two weeks ago.
Kiriwina on her mooring. The yellow pole marks the normal shoreline.
Entry breakwater submerged.
Eventually the tide reached 2.75m making a range of almost 3m over 24 hours compared with a predicted range of around 0.8m.
Later in the afternoon a very strong ebb was running in the river Lujan against a 15-20 knot SE wind. This produced short choppy seas combined with lots of debris.
High water debris from this morning.
Around San Fernando
11/01/09 23:06 Filed in: Argentina | San Fernando
This afternoon I got the Brompton out and cycled up to Tigre and back through San Fernando and San Isidro.
It is a very attractive area considers itself the nautical capital of Argentina.
Passing through San Isidro I spotted this sign.
Geddit???
It is a very attractive area considers itself the nautical capital of Argentina.
Passing through San Isidro I spotted this sign.
Geddit???
Buenos Aires to San Fernando
Many thanks to Yacht Club Argentino for their hospitality over the past three weeks.
The strong winds overnight had eased and by the time I left YC Argentino at 13:25 there was virtually no wind. I took the coastal route exiting Antepuerto Norte to the north.
Northern Entrance
Container berth in Antepuerte Norte.
Outer breakwater.
Don Alejandro buoy was left to starboard at 15:40 and the motor turned off. With a brisk SE 15-20 knots it was good sailing with the main and yankee goose winged.
The River Plate has a surreal feel about it. I think it has something to do with the brown water. One is jut not used to large expanses of brown water. The contrast between river and sky is striking.
About 20 minutes later the river Plate began to shallow and at 16:50 Kiriwina slowly grounded in soft mud on a rising tide. She slewed to starboard beam onto the wind. I got the sails down and dropped the anchor to bring her head to wind and after a few minutes she was riding easier so I had a cup of tea and waited.
At 17:20 she floated clear and passage was resumed under motor and full yankee. It was like Piccadilly Circus for boats. There were heaps of them in a gloriously chaotic muddle. Boats running, boats tacking, boats anchored with people swimming in the fairway, boats motoring into the wind, boats racing and kids in optimists. Incredible! I've not seen this level of sailing activity since I left England.
Approaching river Lujan.
It is replicated ashore with commercial marinas and club nauticos and a truly impressive concentration of servicios maritimos. They can do anything here including building one a new boat.
Kiriwina touched bottom again approaching the river Lujan entrance but after a few minutes she floated clear.
When I got to the club (CNV) I was met by a marinero in a dinghy and escorted to my berth. Basically I have a bow and stern line provided by the club. These hold the boat a few meters off a micro-jetty. There is shore power, water and wifi all included plus the use of all facilities including excellent hot showers.
CNV moorings.
Thanks to Diego and Laura for inviting me over for an asado and some wine. I had a great evening talking about sailing and gleaning lots of local knowledge for trips to Uruguay and the Delta.
The strong winds overnight had eased and by the time I left YC Argentino at 13:25 there was virtually no wind. I took the coastal route exiting Antepuerto Norte to the north.
Northern Entrance
Container berth in Antepuerte Norte.
Outer breakwater.
Don Alejandro buoy was left to starboard at 15:40 and the motor turned off. With a brisk SE 15-20 knots it was good sailing with the main and yankee goose winged.
The River Plate has a surreal feel about it. I think it has something to do with the brown water. One is jut not used to large expanses of brown water. The contrast between river and sky is striking.
About 20 minutes later the river Plate began to shallow and at 16:50 Kiriwina slowly grounded in soft mud on a rising tide. She slewed to starboard beam onto the wind. I got the sails down and dropped the anchor to bring her head to wind and after a few minutes she was riding easier so I had a cup of tea and waited.
At 17:20 she floated clear and passage was resumed under motor and full yankee. It was like Piccadilly Circus for boats. There were heaps of them in a gloriously chaotic muddle. Boats running, boats tacking, boats anchored with people swimming in the fairway, boats motoring into the wind, boats racing and kids in optimists. Incredible! I've not seen this level of sailing activity since I left England.
Approaching river Lujan.
It is replicated ashore with commercial marinas and club nauticos and a truly impressive concentration of servicios maritimos. They can do anything here including building one a new boat.
Kiriwina touched bottom again approaching the river Lujan entrance but after a few minutes she floated clear.
When I got to the club (CNV) I was met by a marinero in a dinghy and escorted to my berth. Basically I have a bow and stern line provided by the club. These hold the boat a few meters off a micro-jetty. There is shore power, water and wifi all included plus the use of all facilities including excellent hot showers.
CNV moorings.
Thanks to Diego and Laura for inviting me over for an asado and some wine. I had a great evening talking about sailing and gleaning lots of local knowledge for trips to Uruguay and the Delta.
