Santiago to Buenos Aires

At Chili Hotel it cost us US$108 for 2 nights. An underwhelming place, IMHO overpriced and in need of refurbishment. There was no need to take a taxi to the airport. We just took the Metro to Los Heroes and then an airport bus right to the terminal.

Luggage sculpture at Santiago airport.


A quick coffee before flying.


Nancy flew LAN Chile, her plane seen here with the Cordilera beyond.


I had an electronic ticket and had checked in online. Absent a printer I presented myself for boarding with a boarding card displayed on my I-Pod Touch. Security argued a bit but let me through. Chilean immigration were having none of it and sent me back to the Pluna checkin desk to get a paper boarding pass. So much for electronic ticketing.

Chilean air force business jet at Santiago as we taxied past.


Flying east over the Cordilera.


My trip back was more less on time and uneventful. We flew into Montevideo passing low over Yacht Club Uruguayano where I stayed back in February.

At Aeroparque in Buenos Aires Argentine police were photographing all disembarking passengers.

Santiago

Back in Santiago we stayed at the fairly forgettable ChilHotel not far from Baquedano metro station.

The car was due back at 13:00 so we nipped into town to have a look around the area of La Moneda, Presidential residence and seat of the Chilean government.


Front view.


Contraloria General de la Republica.


Rear view from Plaza de la Ciudadanía




Salvador Allende

The inscription reads. "Tengo Fe En Chile Y Su Destino". I have faith in Chile and her destiny.

Floral tributes to Allende. He was deposed by a military coup on 11th September 1973. The text of his last speech is
here.


La Moneda, front view from the other side.


La Moneda under attack September 1973.


View from La Moneda towards Avenida Bulnes. Chile celebrates her bicentenary next year.


Mounted Caribineros deployed just in case demonstrations on the coup anniversary turn violent.


Baquedano metro station.


Model train display at Baquedano station. Copiapo is the capital of Atacama province in northern Chile.


More of Santiago's very impressive metro.




Olmue, Valparaiso, Viña del Mar and Santiago

We were lucky. Hosteria de Valle Verde turned out to be very nice indeed with an excellent breakfast included. Cost C$30,000 (£34).

Nancy outside our cabin with the little Kia.


Reception.


We drove down to Valparaiso on the Pacific coast where it was again noticeably cooler and foggy due, I understand, to the influence of the Humboldt Current.

There is convenient parking underneath Plaza Sotomayor next to Muelle Prat. The plaza itself is surrounded by and interesting array of buildings.

Valparaiso port and some ships of the
Chilean Navy.


Port Authority building.


Imposing Armada de Chile building.




Rear entrance to the navy building.


Art and Cultural Centre.


Hotel Reina Victoria.


Fire station.


Memorial statue - Arturo Prat.



Cia Chilena de Navegacion Interoceanica S.A.


Fresh produce is very cheap in Chile. These avocados cost C$1000 (£1.15).


Memorial to Lord Cochrane who commanded the Chilean Navy amongst others. More about him from the RN and the Chilean navy.


Ships at anchor off Valparaiso.


Houses on steep hills overlooking the port area.


Funicular railway. One of many in Valparaiso.


Back in the car we drove up a winding road to residential areas overlooking the port. All cabling is above ground.




Very steep streets.


Trolleybus on Plaza Sotomayor. A wealth of detail on these buses here.


From Valparaiso we drove a few miles up the coast to Viña del Mar.

Our backs to the Pacific at Reñaca beach. Sailing west from here the next land would be Dudley beach south of Newcastle, Australia some 6158.46 nautical miles away.


Viña del Mar is home to the Chilean navy Escuela de Armamentos.


Lots of old guns from scrapped Chilean warships. Mostly British and American built.


I hadn't seen these before. Large transparent spheres in a shallow pool. A child is sealed inside (with enough air) and then rolls the sphere around the pool. They are called water balls.


Before going back to santiago we stopped by we stopped by Edificio Miramar. Around US$110,000 buys a new 2 bedroom apartment with (somewhat distant) sea views. I thought this was a bit expensive especially as bedroom 2 could be described as a large cupboard.

San Vicente to Olmue

Olga outside her new house.


San Vicente lies in a river valley a few miles to the west of route 5. To the east is the Andes cordilera.


Route 66 took us from San Vicente via Peumo to San Antonio on the pacific coast.


It was a lovely drive on immaculate roads through farmland and winding hill roads. Roadside produce stalls were everywhere. We bought a large bag of oranges for 1,500 pesos (about £1.70).

Just before San Antonio we dropped down to the foggy Pacific at Santa Maria del Mar where it was noticeably colder.


Then we skirted round San Antonio and continued across country to Olmue near Parque Nacional La Campana.

Olmue is a lovely spot and we visited sister Jackie who lives in a not quite finished eco-house just outside the town. Before dinner we took a walk up into the park foothills.





Nancy with sister Jackie at sunset in Parque Nacional La Campana.


After an excellent dinner at Campo Alto


We looked around for a hotel. There being none suitable in Olmue we set off for Viña del Mar but around 23:30 we stumbled on Hosteria de Valle Verde where we spent the night.


Santiago to San Vicente

We checked out of the hotel this morning. Total cost for 3 nights US$173. I could take or leave Hotel Foresta. It clearly needs refurbishing and seems to be run by old men who don't really give a toss. If staying longer I would look for something better.

As we packed I noticed the bathroom shelf.



The hotel restaurant is on the 5th floor with lovely views over Cerro Santa Lucia.




Our hire car was delivered to the hotel by Maximo Rent a Car. We got a Kia "Morning" costing US$59 per day with unlimited mileage and Santiago tolls included.

First stop was the top of Cerro San Cristobal in Parque Metropolitano with stunning views across Santiago to the Cordilera.


One can also walk to the top of take the funicular railway.


There is also a church and lots of craft shops.


After stopping for lunch on the outskirts of Santiago we headed south on Route 5. There are tolls on urban autopistas which are collected electronically. As a car approches a payment gantry the applicable toll is displayed. Then, as the car passes under the gantry, the required toll is taken from a prepaid device on the car. Presumably this is topped up somewhere as required. Very slick and it certainly avoids the queues found at manual toll booths in Buenos Aires.

We had to pay close attention to the somewhat infrequent signs. Without changing lanes we ended up heading west instead of south. Back on route 5 we continued south on a superb autopista. About an hour into the trip the
Carabineros motioned us to stop for a spot check on our papers. They were very professional in immaculate uniforms.

Just after dark we arrived in San Vicente about 150k south of Santiago where we stayed with Nancy's sister Olga.

Central Santiago

We sat outside in the sun for a late breakfast at Cafe Patagonia around the corner from Hotel Foresta.

First stop this morning was the beautifully kept National Library.

Peripheral lighting.



Skylight.


Chilena from 1948. Publicity for a photograhic exhibition elsewhere in the building.


Old Santiago.


Another skylight and stairwell.


National Library.


Paris London district.






Iglesia Sacramentinos


Avenida Bulnes






Immaculate metro carriage.



Central Santiago

Our room at Hotel Foresta was comfortable enough but the heating system initially failed and when restored was not much better. We were provided with a hot air blower.

We walked into the centre and had along breakfast at the Argentine owned Cafe Bonafide.

Santiago has a lot more pedestrianisation than Buenos Aires. Streets are clean and well maintained and public buildings seem well cared for. It all gave the impression of a properly funded public sector and was quite unlike any city I have seen so far in South America.

Central Post Office.
Correos de Chile is an autonomous state enterprise and seems to be thriving as such. An interesting contrast to the privatised Argentine system and the sad decline of the Royal mail.


Plaza de Armas with Catederal Metropolitana in the background.


Interior Catederal Metropolitana.


Plaza de Armas - north side.


Bandstand Plaza de Armas.


Universidad Catolica station. Santiago's Metro system is something else. It opened in 1975 with rolling stock supplied by the French company Alstom. Most cars seem to have been built in France with newer ones coming from Brazil. The system is reasonably priced and very clean. We never had to wait very long for a train.

Buenos Airies to Santiago

It rained most of the night and was still pouring down when I left for Aeroparque. A short remise ride and I caught my train from Tigre as planned just after 08:00.

All went well until just before Nunez station when some poor chap apparently ignored the barriers and tried to cross the track. He didn't make it and was struck a glancing blow and thrown 20 metres up the line. He survived but was not in good shape. Another victim of the somewhat casual Argentine approach to personal safety. We sat there for almost an hour while police ambulance and bomberos efficiently sorted things out and took care of him.

My 10:30 flight was looking dodgy by the time I caught a taxi at 10:00 from Lisandro de la Torre station. I was lucky. With hand baggage only and some very helpful Pluna staff I took my seat aboard Pluna flight PU168 at exactly 10:30.

Backing off the gate we passed this
AeroChaco plane. AeroChaco are the "official" carrier of Boca Juniors football club.


It had stopped raining by the time we took off giving excellent views of the city.

Avenida 9 Julio, 110m wide, with Retiro station left of centre.


Puerto Madero with Yacht Club Argentino at centre
.


A container ship outbound from Buenos Aires.



Buenos Aires to Montevideo is a 45 minute flight. The terminal at Montevideo is quite small and the transit lounge was very full due, I suspect, to Pluna succeeding in their plan to become a successful regional carrier using Montevideo as a hub.

Security at Montevideo is provided by the
Fuerza Area Uruguaya and they don't like photos being taken. I took some anyway.
A Pluna CRJ-900


This looks like a 60's Huey


A Pluna
Bombardier CRJ-900 NextGen. It is a very very quiet aircraft. On the flight to Santiago I was in Row 23, the last. There is no window on the starboard side and my locker above was full of safety gear.


Even with the back seat in an aft engined plane it was still quiet. The interior is understated, mostly off-white plastic.



Pluna have picked up a few ideas from Ryan Air. They charge extra for checked baggage and no refreshments are provided. On board catering is handled by
Goddard Catering of Miami (US$ pricing), who charge an eye watering US$3.00 for a coke.

It was turbulent as we crossed over the Cordillera and I snapped a few shots of the magnificent Andes.




Our aircraft at Santiago.

All in all it was a good flight. Immigration was pretty quick and all baggage is x-rayed when going through customs.

Leaving the arrival hall I was met with a swarm of taxi hustlers. They were a real pain. At least in Buenos Aires they are kept outside the terminal.

I took a city bus for C$1400 pesos (£1.55) to Los Heroes and then took the metro (also C$1400 pesos) to Santa Lucia station. The Metro here is similar to the one in Montreal in that the trains have rubber wheels for quiet running.


From there it was a twenty minute walk over Park Santa Lucia to Hotel Foresta.


National Library.






It is an old hotel and a bit tired but my room, although very twee, was large and comfortable,


with a lovely view of Cerro Santa Lucia.




Booking for Chile

We are off to Santiago in Chile on Monday.

Despega.com is popular here and they came up with a return fare to Santiago of around £110 with Pluna (Primeras Líneas Uruguayas de Navegación Aérea) the national airline of Uruguay. I had never heard of them. They date back to 1936 and were recently privatised in a joint venture between the government of Uruguay and Leadgate Investment.

New investment has modernised the fleet with new
Bombardier CRJ-900 NextGen regional jets.


I'm looking forward to my flight which routes to Santiago via Montevideo.

Punta Arenas - Rio Gallegos - El Calafate



Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas


Attractive Plaza Munoz Gamero and surrounding buildings.




Tourist information in Plaza Munoz Gamero.




The British are everywhere. I passed this school while walking up to Buses Ghisoni to buy a ticket to Rio Gallegos.


The ticket cost C$7000 (about £9.00) and the bus leaves at 10:50 on the 11th of May which is a monday.

Puerto Williams to Punta Arenas

Still very cold this morning with lots of snow on the ground. I considered buying some more suitable boots if we are to be stuck here until Monday but the Zapateria was closed. Unable to check mail as the free internet was again occupied.


On the off chance that things might have changed I dropped by the airline ticket office at 10:20. Surprisingly there was one seat to Punta Arenas today at 11:00 and one tomorrow. I immediately booked today with
Aerovias DAP to Punta Arenas at Ch$49,774 (£50).

Dashed back to Pattys (Hostel Pusaki) to settle my bill.
4 nights C$62500 (£78) with Breakfast and an evening meal.

Two bank auditors staying at Hostel Pusaki were flying as well so I took a taxi with them.

En route to Puerto Williams airport.



I was very glad to be leaving. Winter is coming and I did not have the right gear for sustained cold weather.

Conditions were quite bleak as our 10 seat Beechcraft KingAir 100 boarded.






In heavy snow one could not see the end of the runway.




Once airborne we had a brief glimpse of Puerto Williams and once clear of the weather we were rewarded with spectacular views of the Beagle channel.




Cruising altitude was 8000m at about 180knots.




Approaching Pinta Arenas airport. Chilean fighter aircraft are housed in camouflaged hangars on the periphery.


It was a good flight. We landed at 12:30.


I took a transfer bus downtown (Ch$2,000) and with help from the tourist office on Plaza Munoz Gamero located a nearby hostel. En route I popped into into Hotel Condor de Plata at CH$25,000 (£30) per night and decided to stay. Nice to be somewhere warm again. I'm going to stay here for a few days and try to shake my cold.

Puerto Williams








Puerto Williams






















Ushuaia to Puerto Williams





















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