New Years Eve Florianopolis
31/12/11 22:19
Heavy rain all day today.
Stayed on board for most of the day.
View from the companionway.
Dinner at a packed Pizzeria Milano.
The rain continued. Oilies proved very useful.
Happy new year!
Fireworks phase one from barges offshore at BeiraMar. Stunning display to which the I-phone does not quite do justice. The rain eased off.
After about 25 minutes phase two started from the old bridge linking Santa Cartarina with the mainland.
Another 10 minutes culminating in a cascade of fire from the bridge. Much more spectacular than it looks here.
Then the rain set in again. Some Brazilians lingered dancing in the rain but most dispersed and headed home.
Stayed on board for most of the day.
View from the companionway.
Dinner at a packed Pizzeria Milano.
The rain continued. Oilies proved very useful.
Happy new year!
Fireworks phase one from barges offshore at BeiraMar. Stunning display to which the I-phone does not quite do justice. The rain eased off.
After about 25 minutes phase two started from the old bridge linking Santa Cartarina with the mainland.
Another 10 minutes culminating in a cascade of fire from the bridge. Much more spectacular than it looks here.
Then the rain set in again. Some Brazilians lingered dancing in the rain but most dispersed and headed home.
Praia Jurere
30/12/11 22:00
Cloudy and overcast this morning.
We drove up to Praia Jurere on the north west coast of Santa Catarina. A lovely spot with less crowding and more expensive cars.
Jackie and Nancy on Jurere beach.
Iate Clube Santa Catarina have a clubhouse, jetty and extensive facilities at Jurere. Visiting yachts can anchor or moor on a club buoy and have access to club facilities. The first two days are complimentary. I was quoted R$80 per day for each extra day.
Jackie with Jurere anchorage beyond.
It would be possible to anchor further around the beach and dinghy ashore without using ICSC facilities. We plan to sail there next week.
We drove up to Praia Jurere on the north west coast of Santa Catarina. A lovely spot with less crowding and more expensive cars.
Jackie and Nancy on Jurere beach.
Iate Clube Santa Catarina have a clubhouse, jetty and extensive facilities at Jurere. Visiting yachts can anchor or moor on a club buoy and have access to club facilities. The first two days are complimentary. I was quoted R$80 per day for each extra day.
Jackie with Jurere anchorage beyond.
It would be possible to anchor further around the beach and dinghy ashore without using ICSC facilities. We plan to sail there next week.
Praia Campeche
29/12/11 21:09
A lovely day today. Sunny and hot.
We drove down to Praia Campeche on the south east coast. Fairly heavy traffic on the way down.
En route we stopped to buy some beach kit. A folding chair and a 2m parasol.
Praia Campeche was another superb beach. Parking was R$10. Clean sand and water with the picturesque Ilha do Campeche just offshore. A cooling sea breeze blew throughout the afternoon.
On the way back we collected our laundry. R$52.50 for two loads wash and dry. 10 times the cost in
Uruguay.
We drove down to Praia Campeche on the south east coast. Fairly heavy traffic on the way down.
En route we stopped to buy some beach kit. A folding chair and a 2m parasol.
Praia Campeche was another superb beach. Parking was R$10. Clean sand and water with the picturesque Ilha do Campeche just offshore. A cooling sea breeze blew throughout the afternoon.
On the way back we collected our laundry. R$52.50 for two loads wash and dry. 10 times the cost in
Uruguay.
Praia Joaquina
27/12/11 21:19
First day on the beach today. Praia Joaquina on the east coast.
It was hot and sunny with a cooling sea breeze.
A good surf was running and I managed to get dumped, scraping a decent chunk of skin off the top of my head in the process.
The beach was very crowded with parasols and chairs renting for R$10 each per day. We haggled and got a set for only two hours for R$10.
#2 Crew - Jackie.
On the way back we stopped at Barra da Lagoa before returning in heavy traffic via the northern route.
It was hot and sunny with a cooling sea breeze.
A good surf was running and I managed to get dumped, scraping a decent chunk of skin off the top of my head in the process.
The beach was very crowded with parasols and chairs renting for R$10 each per day. We haggled and got a set for only two hours for R$10.
#2 Crew - Jackie.
On the way back we stopped at Barra da Lagoa before returning in heavy traffic via the northern route.
Boxing Day - Florianopolis
26/12/11 22:54
The weather eased today.
Lighter winds and intermittent rain showers.
This bird perched on our starboard breast line looking for lunch.
It spotted a little fish.
Bam! First course is served.
Lighter winds and intermittent rain showers.
This bird perched on our starboard breast line looking for lunch.
It spotted a little fish.
Bam! First course is served.
Christmas Florianopolis
25/12/11 22:58
Heavy rain for most of the day.
It eased in the afternoon and we went for a bit of a tour.
Skipper and Nancy at a mirador in the rain. Dunes, Lagoa Conaceio, and Praia Joaquina in the distance.
Barra di Lagoa where Lagoa Conaceio empties into the sea.
Jackie at another mirador with Lagoa Conaceio behind.
It eased in the afternoon and we went for a bit of a tour.
Skipper and Nancy at a mirador in the rain. Dunes, Lagoa Conaceio, and Praia Joaquina in the distance.
Barra di Lagoa where Lagoa Conaceio empties into the sea.
Jackie at another mirador with Lagoa Conaceio behind.
Christmas Eve - Florianopolis
24/12/11 21:33
Heavy rain squalls and strong southerly winds today. On the berth we had 30 knots plus.
The yacht club was virtually deserted.
Number one jetty at Iate Clube Santa Catarina is particularly exposed to the south.
With strong winds there is a lot of surge on the berths and on board motion is quite violent. I found that my normal snubbers damage the lines with frequent jerking. The local remedy is to use car tyres. I doubled my bow lines with the windward one secured to a tyre.
Crews and marineros tending to lines. Crew from a neighbouring french boat had great difficulty getting ashore due to their long bowsprit.
All boats were pitching violently. Getting ashore involved waiting for the right moment and making a leap. My leap malfunctioned and I ended up standing on the grab line 6" above the water. I scrambled back on board with my phone and computer dry and intact. Could have been an expensive malfunction.
The yacht club was virtually deserted.
Number one jetty at Iate Clube Santa Catarina is particularly exposed to the south.
With strong winds there is a lot of surge on the berths and on board motion is quite violent. I found that my normal snubbers damage the lines with frequent jerking. The local remedy is to use car tyres. I doubled my bow lines with the windward one secured to a tyre.
Crews and marineros tending to lines. Crew from a neighbouring french boat had great difficulty getting ashore due to their long bowsprit.
All boats were pitching violently. Getting ashore involved waiting for the right moment and making a leap. My leap malfunctioned and I ended up standing on the grab line 6" above the water. I scrambled back on board with my phone and computer dry and intact. Could have been an expensive malfunction.
Florianopolis
21/12/11 22:40
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 6
15/11/11 11:46
Our course rounded Ilha Coral then proceeded roughly NW to the entrance to Enseada Pinheira.
A fairly straightforward approach with some added complications. It was pitch black, no moon and continuous light rain with restricted visibility at times.
Beyond Ilha Coral there were no lights of navigation aids of any sort. There is a large rock at the surface near the middle of the entrance. I simply followed my GPS course in and in the event arrived safely.
We anchored off Pinheira village at 02:00 IN 4.4 metres of water. There was a low residual swell making it's way into the bay. Of to my bunk for a good sleep.
A fairly straightforward approach with some added complications. It was pitch black, no moon and continuous light rain with restricted visibility at times.
Beyond Ilha Coral there were no lights of navigation aids of any sort. There is a large rock at the surface near the middle of the entrance. I simply followed my GPS course in and in the event arrived safely.
We anchored off Pinheira village at 02:00 IN 4.4 metres of water. There was a low residual swell making it's way into the bay. Of to my bunk for a good sleep.
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 5
14/11/11 22:21
At about 02:00 some 25 offshore with the coast converging it became apparent that we could no longer hold a safe course under sail and weather Cabo S. Marta Grande.
The wind had backed further to ENE-NE 14-18 knots and tacking would not do the job sending us off in the direction of South Africa. In the interests of maintaining good progress I had allowed a falling off from our course which nibbled away at our sea room cushion.
Now there was a penalty to paid. I decided to motor sail under main only. This put us back on a safe course and was later helped by the wind veering a tad.
At 12:00 Cabo S. Marta Grande was rounded.
Noon run 96.1 miles. 45 miles to go to Enseada Pinheira.
By now the wind had died away leaving us with slight seas and a long swell. At 15:00 a nice easterly breeze sprang up and we romped along under sail at 5 knots for two hours until the wind died again.
The weather on this trip has been curious and not quite as expected. Forecast SE to E became ESE to to ENE. The difference being pleasant sailing giving way to less pleasant conditions. Another reason to get well offshore on this coast.
We were not home yet. At 18:00 I heard, I thought, a strong wind warning of NE/SE F7-9 from Radio Laguna. The reception was poor and the broadcast in Portuguese but a little seeds of doubt were planted in my mind. We were where we were and there was no practical port of refuge.
During the day there had been one or two small rain squalls. Now in the early evening there was a slightly eerie oily swell and a long line of dark cloud on the SE horizon.
We pressed on doing about 4.2 knots under motor. At nightfall the cloud arrived with light misty rain and periods of much reduced visibility.
Progress was steady and even in a short moderate swell my new ST2000 tiller pilot steered a perfect course. It also got a good dousing as continuous light rain set in.
At midnight we were approaching Ilha Coral which was lit.
The wind had backed further to ENE-NE 14-18 knots and tacking would not do the job sending us off in the direction of South Africa. In the interests of maintaining good progress I had allowed a falling off from our course which nibbled away at our sea room cushion.
Now there was a penalty to paid. I decided to motor sail under main only. This put us back on a safe course and was later helped by the wind veering a tad.
At 12:00 Cabo S. Marta Grande was rounded.
Noon run 96.1 miles. 45 miles to go to Enseada Pinheira.
By now the wind had died away leaving us with slight seas and a long swell. At 15:00 a nice easterly breeze sprang up and we romped along under sail at 5 knots for two hours until the wind died again.
The weather on this trip has been curious and not quite as expected. Forecast SE to E became ESE to to ENE. The difference being pleasant sailing giving way to less pleasant conditions. Another reason to get well offshore on this coast.
We were not home yet. At 18:00 I heard, I thought, a strong wind warning of NE/SE F7-9 from Radio Laguna. The reception was poor and the broadcast in Portuguese but a little seeds of doubt were planted in my mind. We were where we were and there was no practical port of refuge.
During the day there had been one or two small rain squalls. Now in the early evening there was a slightly eerie oily swell and a long line of dark cloud on the SE horizon.
We pressed on doing about 4.2 knots under motor. At nightfall the cloud arrived with light misty rain and periods of much reduced visibility.
Progress was steady and even in a short moderate swell my new ST2000 tiller pilot steered a perfect course. It also got a good dousing as continuous light rain set in.
At midnight we were approaching Ilha Coral which was lit.
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 4
13/11/11 22:09
After midnight the wind backed further to ENE at 18 knots. We were now beating and having to work to maintain our course.
I couldn't bear away because of the need to maintain plenty of sea room on this coast. At this point we were 41 miles offshore.
At 04:00 we passed the latitude of Porto Alegre and are now the farthest north we have been since December 2008.
Around dawn the wind increased to 22 knots where it stayed all day.
Noon run 99 miles.
What a contrast to yesterday. Conditions have become unpleasant with a dark cloudy sky. Sailing conditions became uncomfortable. Bang bang bang hard on the wind all day.
Late in the evening the wind eased slightly to 18 knots as we proceeded in a moderate sea with long swell.
I couldn't bear away because of the need to maintain plenty of sea room on this coast. At this point we were 41 miles offshore.
At 04:00 we passed the latitude of Porto Alegre and are now the farthest north we have been since December 2008.
Around dawn the wind increased to 22 knots where it stayed all day.
Noon run 99 miles.
What a contrast to yesterday. Conditions have become unpleasant with a dark cloudy sky. Sailing conditions became uncomfortable. Bang bang bang hard on the wind all day.
Late in the evening the wind eased slightly to 18 knots as we proceeded in a moderate sea with long swell.
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 3
12/11/11 22:55
Around midnight the wind backed then died away to less than 5 knots. We spent the early hours ghosting along at around 1 knot.
Then at around 08:00 the wind resumed from the SE to 12-14 knots. A glorious morning's sailing and I sat in the cockpit thoroughly enjoying it. The sea was a deep blue under a celeste sky with scattered light fluffy clouds. The stuff armchair sailors dream of.
Noon run 72.1 miles. Not bad considering 8 hours of ghosting.
A little mistake on my Navionics electronic chart.
Glorious sailing.
Later in the afternoon and on into the evening the wind increased to around 17knots and backed ESE/E.
Car carrier "Shenandoah Highway" northbound to seaward.
Later with the wind at 22 knots I put one reef in the main and took in 50% of the yankee.
Then at around 08:00 the wind resumed from the SE to 12-14 knots. A glorious morning's sailing and I sat in the cockpit thoroughly enjoying it. The sea was a deep blue under a celeste sky with scattered light fluffy clouds. The stuff armchair sailors dream of.
Noon run 72.1 miles. Not bad considering 8 hours of ghosting.
A little mistake on my Navionics electronic chart.
Glorious sailing.
Later in the afternoon and on into the evening the wind increased to around 17knots and backed ESE/E.
Car carrier "Shenandoah Highway" northbound to seaward.
Later with the wind at 22 knots I put one reef in the main and took in 50% of the yankee.
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 2
11/11/11 22:03
Overnight the wind settled to around 22 knots SSE with a moderate sea and swell. I chose to sail a bit closer to the wind to get offshore as quickly as possible.
Some fishing and commercial traffic during the night but nothing too close.
By morning conditions eased with the wind variable but settling around 12kn SSE-SE.
Noon run 73 miles. Very good speed and if maintained will see us in Enseada Pinheira early monday afternoon. The set on shore appears much reduced and we are now 25 miles offshore on our charted course.
A relaxing afternoon at sea. Speed 4.2knots and the sounder just reading "Deep".
Tanker "Gan Triumph" in ballast bound SE.
Lovely red sunset with a container ship silhouetted on the Horizon?
Later a Brazilian fishing vessel came quite close and dropped a buoy illuminated with a tiny strobe light. Very difficult to see at 2-300 metres.
No change during the evening. Lovely conditions. Good sailing.
Some fishing and commercial traffic during the night but nothing too close.
By morning conditions eased with the wind variable but settling around 12kn SSE-SE.
Noon run 73 miles. Very good speed and if maintained will see us in Enseada Pinheira early monday afternoon. The set on shore appears much reduced and we are now 25 miles offshore on our charted course.
A relaxing afternoon at sea. Speed 4.2knots and the sounder just reading "Deep".
Tanker "Gan Triumph" in ballast bound SE.
Lovely red sunset with a container ship silhouetted on the Horizon?
Later a Brazilian fishing vessel came quite close and dropped a buoy illuminated with a tiny strobe light. Very difficult to see at 2-300 metres.
No change during the evening. Lovely conditions. Good sailing.
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 1
10/11/11 22:03
There was a good chance of being able to leave today. Up early to walk into town to check the weather. It looked very good. A five day window of favourable winds.
Took a moto taxi to the Capitania for clearance and buy some charts for Ilha Santa Catarina. Brazilian charts cost R$45 each (about £16). I'm not sure they are corrected to date but they are what they are.
Back on board after topping up with vegetables and Kiriwina was ready to go. WE left the berth at 14:30. It was a bit of a slog downstream with headwinds reaching 25 knots in cloudy squalls.
Something was happening with the fish. There were small and medium size fishing boats charging about all over the channel. They would stop, fish and then move on. I saw one boat heading back loaded to the gunwhales with a good catch. Clearly there were fish to be had.
About 8 larger inshore fishing boats were anchored inside the breakwater. I wondered if they knew something I didn't.
Anyway, off we went and cleared the breakwater at 18:00 and shortly afterwards shut the motor down and proceeded under sail. Wind SSE 5.
At first we were doing 6.3kn over the ground with a noticeable shoreward set. Around 20:00 the wind quickly strengthened to 27 knots followed by some equally rapid reefing.
We made good progress and by midnight the wind had eased to 17knots.
Took a moto taxi to the Capitania for clearance and buy some charts for Ilha Santa Catarina. Brazilian charts cost R$45 each (about £16). I'm not sure they are corrected to date but they are what they are.
Back on board after topping up with vegetables and Kiriwina was ready to go. WE left the berth at 14:30. It was a bit of a slog downstream with headwinds reaching 25 knots in cloudy squalls.
Something was happening with the fish. There were small and medium size fishing boats charging about all over the channel. They would stop, fish and then move on. I saw one boat heading back loaded to the gunwhales with a good catch. Clearly there were fish to be had.
About 8 larger inshore fishing boats were anchored inside the breakwater. I wondered if they knew something I didn't.
Anyway, off we went and cleared the breakwater at 18:00 and shortly afterwards shut the motor down and proceeded under sail. Wind SSE 5.
At first we were doing 6.3kn over the ground with a noticeable shoreward set. Around 20:00 the wind quickly strengthened to 27 knots followed by some equally rapid reefing.
We made good progress and by midnight the wind had eased to 17knots.
Rio Grande
09/11/11 23:20
After a very good night's sleep I was up at 08:30. The wind was still strong but was dropping.
My fender rig from last night. One can never have too many fenders.
First job was to take care of formalities.
The Policia Federal are conveniently located en route to the town centre. It took about 15 minutes there to formally enter Brazil and have my passport stamped. Then I stopped by Cafe Plaza to check and send mail. Interesting that the Brazilian marine forecast yesterday was NE Force 6-7. Without motor sailing and getting in quickly we would have taken a spanking.
Next, a moto taxi (R$5) down to the Receita at dock gate 5.
This was my third visit there and I have come to enjoy my chats with Senhor Gremio who is a fount of information on just about anything. This time he enlightened my on contractual difficulties with World Cup stadia and the financial behemoth that is Petrobras. He also told me that the burnt out Turkish ship that was here last year has been towed to Singapore for scrap. Singapore?
There was a short delay while a newly installed network printer malfunctioned. Only one person knew how to use it. Then I was on my way up to the Capitania where I was told that the handling person was at lunch but no problem this officer would get me processed. All done in about 15 minutes. Great.
Back on the boat I was advised that the Receita had called and asked me to stay on board. There was a problem with my paperwork. Oh dear! When I was here earlier this year the Receita arrested another yacht.
Kiriwina on the Museo berth at Rio Grande
Later Senhor Bastos from the Receita came on board bringing corrected paperwork. There was a typo which limited my Kiriwina's stay in Brazil to two weeks instead of three months. I was über impressed. He came all the way to my boat. He could have just asked me to return. Thanks Senhor Bastos.
The weather is looking good for a departure tomorrow or Friday.
This evening the heavens opened with violent gusts and heavy rain. Won't have to rinse the salt off tomorrow.
My fender rig from last night. One can never have too many fenders.
First job was to take care of formalities.
The Policia Federal are conveniently located en route to the town centre. It took about 15 minutes there to formally enter Brazil and have my passport stamped. Then I stopped by Cafe Plaza to check and send mail. Interesting that the Brazilian marine forecast yesterday was NE Force 6-7. Without motor sailing and getting in quickly we would have taken a spanking.
Next, a moto taxi (R$5) down to the Receita at dock gate 5.
This was my third visit there and I have come to enjoy my chats with Senhor Gremio who is a fount of information on just about anything. This time he enlightened my on contractual difficulties with World Cup stadia and the financial behemoth that is Petrobras. He also told me that the burnt out Turkish ship that was here last year has been towed to Singapore for scrap. Singapore?
There was a short delay while a newly installed network printer malfunctioned. Only one person knew how to use it. Then I was on my way up to the Capitania where I was told that the handling person was at lunch but no problem this officer would get me processed. All done in about 15 minutes. Great.
Back on the boat I was advised that the Receita had called and asked me to stay on board. There was a problem with my paperwork. Oh dear! When I was here earlier this year the Receita arrested another yacht.
Kiriwina on the Museo berth at Rio Grande
Later Senhor Bastos from the Receita came on board bringing corrected paperwork. There was a typo which limited my Kiriwina's stay in Brazil to two weeks instead of three months. I was über impressed. He came all the way to my boat. He could have just asked me to return. Thanks Senhor Bastos.
The weather is looking good for a departure tomorrow or Friday.
This evening the heavens opened with violent gusts and heavy rain. Won't have to rinse the salt off tomorrow.
Passage to Rio Grande - Day 4
08/11/11 23:51
Early this morning the wind started to back. It had been forecast to back and increase to force 6-7 but not until tomorrow. I don't like motoring on passage but here I was faced with approaching strong head winds. By motor sailing I could maintain my course and with good speed reach harbour before the worst arrived.
The engine went on.
Motor sailing hard on the wind around 14:00, 2 hours south of Rio Grande. Getting rid of Piriapolis dust.
Approaching Rio Grande channel 40 minutes out. Car carrier "Canadian Highway" proceeding in.
Approaching the breakwaters about 20 minutes out.
Roly poly in the channel.
At this point the wind had eased to 18 knots from 25. We were running at about half revs with one reef in the main and half yankee. 6.6 knots on the meter, depth 16.3 metres.
Almost in. The sea has eased but the swell is still there.
Entering the breakwaters and a lovely calm.
Further in near the container berths I had the sails down but was going very slowly under motor. This was a very strong ebb. I hoisted about 2/3 yankee and gained a couple of knots.
By the time this swinging ship was passed the wind was around 25knots gusting higher.
Then it became a dour slog. The channel curved bringing us head to wind and on a strong ebb. Yuk. Speed dropped to less than one knot. No fun. I tried tacking back and forth across the channel but even with the motor running we trod water. Nothing for it but to take the one knot and edge up channel.
After about two hours we finally turned into the sheltered link channel. Speed picked up and I could prepare lines and fenders.
Last year there was a burnt out Turkish ship here. This one is the new "Petrobras 58" fitting out.
It was getting dark as we passed "Canadian Highway". A pretty ship she is not.
Out of the link channel we turned into the old harbour and rocketed along the channel with the wind, around 20 knots and increasing, astern.
Our previous berth at the Museo was vacant so I was able to point into the wind, ghost alongside and leap ashore with two lines. We were safely all fast at 20:45 but just in time as the wind reached 27 knots gusting higher a wee bit later. I had calculated 2 hours for the harbour passage. It took nearly 5.
With the wind from the NE the old fender pop-out problem I first saw in Holland back in 2006 was again an issue. A strong wind pushes the boat hard onto a berth. With sufficient fetch the water is disturbed causing the boat to move up and down in a short jerky motion. If one is not very careful with fender placement they will pop out leaving the hull to grind against the dock.
I collapsed into my bunk.
The engine went on.
Motor sailing hard on the wind around 14:00, 2 hours south of Rio Grande. Getting rid of Piriapolis dust.
Approaching Rio Grande channel 40 minutes out. Car carrier "Canadian Highway" proceeding in.
Approaching the breakwaters about 20 minutes out.
Roly poly in the channel.
At this point the wind had eased to 18 knots from 25. We were running at about half revs with one reef in the main and half yankee. 6.6 knots on the meter, depth 16.3 metres.
Almost in. The sea has eased but the swell is still there.
Entering the breakwaters and a lovely calm.
Further in near the container berths I had the sails down but was going very slowly under motor. This was a very strong ebb. I hoisted about 2/3 yankee and gained a couple of knots.
By the time this swinging ship was passed the wind was around 25knots gusting higher.
Then it became a dour slog. The channel curved bringing us head to wind and on a strong ebb. Yuk. Speed dropped to less than one knot. No fun. I tried tacking back and forth across the channel but even with the motor running we trod water. Nothing for it but to take the one knot and edge up channel.
After about two hours we finally turned into the sheltered link channel. Speed picked up and I could prepare lines and fenders.
Last year there was a burnt out Turkish ship here. This one is the new "Petrobras 58" fitting out.
It was getting dark as we passed "Canadian Highway". A pretty ship she is not.
Out of the link channel we turned into the old harbour and rocketed along the channel with the wind, around 20 knots and increasing, astern.
Our previous berth at the Museo was vacant so I was able to point into the wind, ghost alongside and leap ashore with two lines. We were safely all fast at 20:45 but just in time as the wind reached 27 knots gusting higher a wee bit later. I had calculated 2 hours for the harbour passage. It took nearly 5.
With the wind from the NE the old fender pop-out problem I first saw in Holland back in 2006 was again an issue. A strong wind pushes the boat hard onto a berth. With sufficient fetch the water is disturbed causing the boat to move up and down in a short jerky motion. If one is not very careful with fender placement they will pop out leaving the hull to grind against the dock.
I collapsed into my bunk.
Rio Grande to Punta del Este
26/04/11 21:32
Last day - Porto Alegre
19/04/11 21:37
Gramado to Porto Alegre
18/04/11 21:38
Gramado
17/04/11 22:02
Gramado
16/04/11 22:02
Porto Alegre to Gramado
15/04/11 22:01
Colonia to Porto Alegre
11/04/11 21:59
Off to England
01/03/11 17:08
Up fairly early to complete packing and give the office at Veleiros do Sur a copy of my new Declaracao Simplificada de Importacao.
At 11:00 I locked the boat and took a taxi to the airport at Porto Alegre. Cost R$34. All I needed to do was to have Gol print my boarding pass which they did immediately and I was through into the departure lounge in minutes.
Our Gol Boing 737 awaiting boarding.
We left bang on time at 13:30 and arrived at Sao Paulo Garulhos about 20 minutes early. Nice flight.
Not having any baggage I was quickly through into international departures where I stuck my passport in a KLM machine and received my boarding passes through to London. Much better than the very long queues I have seen here in the past. Only 4 hours till boarding.
At 11:00 I locked the boat and took a taxi to the airport at Porto Alegre. Cost R$34. All I needed to do was to have Gol print my boarding pass which they did immediately and I was through into the departure lounge in minutes.
Our Gol Boing 737 awaiting boarding.
We left bang on time at 13:30 and arrived at Sao Paulo Garulhos about 20 minutes early. Nice flight.
Not having any baggage I was quickly through into international departures where I stuck my passport in a KLM machine and received my boarding passes through to London. Much better than the very long queues I have seen here in the past. Only 4 hours till boarding.
Porto Alegre - Receita
28/02/11 15:49
First up a visit to the Capitania to have some annotations made on my Declaracao de Entrada.
Capitania Building
Then back to the Receita.
I didn't get my Prorrogacao - Decreto Nº 4.543 de 2002/ Nº 5.887 de 2006 despite asking for it again this morning. They extended my Declaracao Simplificada de Importacao until the first of May. As I understand it I will be required to leave Brazil before that date.
An excellent shoeshine nearby.
Then it was back to the boat to prepare her for a three week lay-up.
Capitania Building
Then back to the Receita.
I didn't get my Prorrogacao - Decreto Nº 4.543 de 2002/ Nº 5.887 de 2006 despite asking for it again this morning. They extended my Declaracao Simplificada de Importacao until the first of May. As I understand it I will be required to leave Brazil before that date.
An excellent shoeshine nearby.
Then it was back to the boat to prepare her for a three week lay-up.
Porto Alegre - Puriclean
27/02/11 21:45
A slightly cooler and fine day today.
I have become aware that the fresh water system might not be as clean as it should be. Recent very hot weather and water from less than optimum sources may not have helped.
Last night I mixed up a batch of Puriclean and added it to all three water tanks which were about a third full.
Puriclean recomend 12 hours standing time. Today I topped up the tanks and pumped them dry. A lot of brownish foamy water emerged initially but it became cleaner. Then the tanks were filled again and pumped dry. Finally the fore and aft tanks were filled with water and a dash of chlorine based water purifier.
Result. Clean and virtually odour free water from all taps. The pump filter was virtually clean with only a few specks of sediment.
I've been carrying Puriclean aboard for over 5 years and this is only the second time I have used it. My normal practice has been to add a bit of household bleach or water purifier when I can find it.
I have become aware that the fresh water system might not be as clean as it should be. Recent very hot weather and water from less than optimum sources may not have helped.
Last night I mixed up a batch of Puriclean and added it to all three water tanks which were about a third full.
Puriclean recomend 12 hours standing time. Today I topped up the tanks and pumped them dry. A lot of brownish foamy water emerged initially but it became cleaner. Then the tanks were filled again and pumped dry. Finally the fore and aft tanks were filled with water and a dash of chlorine based water purifier.
Result. Clean and virtually odour free water from all taps. The pump filter was virtually clean with only a few specks of sediment.
I've been carrying Puriclean aboard for over 5 years and this is only the second time I have used it. My normal practice has been to add a bit of household bleach or water purifier when I can find it.
Porto Alegre
26/02/11 22:56
Late this afternoon I vicious little squall came through. Shortly after this photo was taken Kiriwina heeled over as the wind went from light airs to over 20 knots in a matter of minutes.
After about 20 minutes we were back to a light breeze.
After about 20 minutes we were back to a light breeze.
Porto Alegre
25/02/11 23:29
This morning I got an e-mail from the Receita asking me to have my Declaracao de Entrada endorsed by the Capitania and to report to the Reiceita on Monday.
Fingers crossed. Worst case is that they do not issue a Prorrogacao or extend my Declaracao Simplificada de Importacao. This would mean my having to leave Brazil with Kiriwina by latest 14th March.
Nothing to do now but wait.
Fingers crossed. Worst case is that they do not issue a Prorrogacao or extend my Declaracao Simplificada de Importacao. This would mean my having to leave Brazil with Kiriwina by latest 14th March.
Nothing to do now but wait.
Porto Alegre - Difficulties
24/02/11 23:01
This morning I began the paper work necessary to leave the boat and travel to England.
Firstly, one must obtain a declaration from the marina/club where ones boat is moored. This states that the boat is at the marina/club, without crew, and is out of use.
Then this declaration must be endorsed by the Capitania. I travelled into town to the Capitania and they did so in a couple of minutes. They did not consider it necessary to endorse my Declaracao de Entrada which is usually required.
Next stop was the Receita Federal but I was too late. They close between 11:30 and 13:30.
Returning after lunch it became obvious that very few foreign yachts call at Porto Alegre. Nobody had any idea what to do with me. Eventually I ended up in the office of a senior manager. He was puzzled as to what I wanted and wanted to merely extend my Declaracao Simplificada de Importacao. This would not be ideal as I would be required to leave Brazil when it expired always assuming an extension, which is at the discretion of the Receita, would be granted.
What I wanted to do was to request a Prorrogacao - Decreto Nº 4.543 de 2002/ Nº 5.887 de 2006. This has the effect of allowing the boat to remain in Brazil for two years while the owner is subject to normal immigration control. When the owner is not on board the boat must be put out of use.
I spent three hours with the Receita. They copied virtually every document in my possession including every page in my passport and were not prepared to issue a Prorrogacao. I had heard of this happening before where foreign boats call infrequently.
In the end I was told to provide proof that I was actually leaving Brazil and to return next monday. I later e-mailed copies of my flight confirmations.
Firstly, one must obtain a declaration from the marina/club where ones boat is moored. This states that the boat is at the marina/club, without crew, and is out of use.
Then this declaration must be endorsed by the Capitania. I travelled into town to the Capitania and they did so in a couple of minutes. They did not consider it necessary to endorse my Declaracao de Entrada which is usually required.
Next stop was the Receita Federal but I was too late. They close between 11:30 and 13:30.
Returning after lunch it became obvious that very few foreign yachts call at Porto Alegre. Nobody had any idea what to do with me. Eventually I ended up in the office of a senior manager. He was puzzled as to what I wanted and wanted to merely extend my Declaracao Simplificada de Importacao. This would not be ideal as I would be required to leave Brazil when it expired always assuming an extension, which is at the discretion of the Receita, would be granted.
What I wanted to do was to request a Prorrogacao - Decreto Nº 4.543 de 2002/ Nº 5.887 de 2006. This has the effect of allowing the boat to remain in Brazil for two years while the owner is subject to normal immigration control. When the owner is not on board the boat must be put out of use.
I spent three hours with the Receita. They copied virtually every document in my possession including every page in my passport and were not prepared to issue a Prorrogacao. I had heard of this happening before where foreign boats call infrequently.
In the end I was told to provide proof that I was actually leaving Brazil and to return next monday. I later e-mailed copies of my flight confirmations.
Buenos Aires to Porto Alegre
23/02/11 23:37
It was a slightly hairy start this morning. Heavy rain and slow traffic delayed my arrival at Aeroparque but I made it in time.
Waiting in the departure lounge my Pluna flight had still not been called with 10 minutes to go. The board merely said "contact agent". At Pluna's checkin desk I was told I should have checked in an hour previously despite having checked in on-line and having only hand baggage. Hmm.
There followed a mad dash upstairs through security and immigration and on to the tarmac shuttle where we waited for about 15 minutes. Once on board there was a further delay of about 25 minutes before takeoff.
Arriving at Montevideo we were advised that passengers for Porto Alegre could remain on board as our aircraft would be doing Montevideo/Porto Alegre. Nice.
Pluna's Bombardier jets are very quiet and a pleasure to travel on. Arriving on time at Porto Alegre I quickly passed though immigration and customs.
On the approach I noticed a station quite close to the airport. There is a free shuttle bus to this station and the train fare into Porto Alegre is less the R$3.
Back on board all was well with the batteries in a good state of charge.
Waiting in the departure lounge my Pluna flight had still not been called with 10 minutes to go. The board merely said "contact agent". At Pluna's checkin desk I was told I should have checked in an hour previously despite having checked in on-line and having only hand baggage. Hmm.
There followed a mad dash upstairs through security and immigration and on to the tarmac shuttle where we waited for about 15 minutes. Once on board there was a further delay of about 25 minutes before takeoff.
Arriving at Montevideo we were advised that passengers for Porto Alegre could remain on board as our aircraft would be doing Montevideo/Porto Alegre. Nice.
Pluna's Bombardier jets are very quiet and a pleasure to travel on. Arriving on time at Porto Alegre I quickly passed though immigration and customs.
On the approach I noticed a station quite close to the airport. There is a free shuttle bus to this station and the train fare into Porto Alegre is less the R$3.
Back on board all was well with the batteries in a good state of charge.
Florianaplois
30/01/11 00:35
A tranquil day in Florianapolis. The yacht club restaurant does a good breakfast.
There are very few boats on the club moorings. Most owners haul out their boats after use. Fouling is very rapid here and the moorings are very exposed. Not a place to leave one's boat unattended.
This boat had coachlines matching his sidelights.
Today we planned to rent a car and tour Santa Catarina island. There is a car rental office just outside the yacht club. I didn't like the look of their cars and the one we were allocated turned out to have a number of faults. We returned it and got a new car for less from a rental outlet in the bus station.
There are very few boats on the club moorings. Most owners haul out their boats after use. Fouling is very rapid here and the moorings are very exposed. Not a place to leave one's boat unattended.
This boat had coachlines matching his sidelights.
Today we planned to rent a car and tour Santa Catarina island. There is a car rental office just outside the yacht club. I didn't like the look of their cars and the one we were allocated turned out to have a number of faults. We returned it and got a new car for less from a rental outlet in the bus station.
Florianaplois
29/01/11 00:40
Early start today as I am taking a coach to Florianapolis.
A new yacht being delivered to Veleiros do Sul while I waited for a city bus.
Boarding our Santo Anjo coach at Porto Alegre.
A modern and very comfortable coach.
Approaching Florianapolis from the south.
Traffic arriving on Santa catarina island via Pedro Ivo Campos bridge.
National, city and state flags.
Lovely park en route between the bus station and the marina.
City library.
Yacht club entrance.
After leaving my gear aboard "Cora Mae", where I was to stay for a few days, we were able to use
the member's swimming pool. Many Brazilian yacht clubs restrict visitors access to facilities. This was a real pleasure in the heat.
A new yacht being delivered to Veleiros do Sul while I waited for a city bus.
Boarding our Santo Anjo coach at Porto Alegre.
A modern and very comfortable coach.
Approaching Florianapolis from the south.
Traffic arriving on Santa catarina island via Pedro Ivo Campos bridge.
National, city and state flags.
Lovely park en route between the bus station and the marina.
City library.
Yacht club entrance.
After leaving my gear aboard "Cora Mae", where I was to stay for a few days, we were able to use
the member's swimming pool. Many Brazilian yacht clubs restrict visitors access to facilities. This was a real pleasure in the heat.
Porto Alegre
27/01/11 23:20
We spent a relaxing day on board and visiting nearby Shopping Barra, a huge newly built mall about 20 minutes walk from Veleiros do Sul.
It was very very hot.
Veleiros do Sul is a yachting centre of excellence and is hosting Brazilian sailors as they train for the olympics.
It was very very hot.
Veleiros do Sul is a yachting centre of excellence and is hosting Brazilian sailors as they train for the olympics.
Porto Alegre
26/01/11 23:09
Veleiros do Sul is about a 20 minute taxi ride south of the city centre but one has the option of using public city buses or private mini buses which are a tad more expensive.
Porto Alegre, capital of the State of Rio Grande, is a bustling modern city without the air of menace so prevalent in northern Brazil.
We only needed to visit the Capitania but when we went there after lunch they were closed. Opening hours are 08:00-12:00. Oh well.
Large church in the old town.
Cobbled street near the Capitania.
Mercado Central in Porto Alegre.
Old lake traders laid up in Porto Alegre. Much of the trade between Porto Alegre and the deep sea port at Rio Grande has been diverted to rail and road.
Porto Alegre, capital of the State of Rio Grande, is a bustling modern city without the air of menace so prevalent in northern Brazil.
We only needed to visit the Capitania but when we went there after lunch they were closed. Opening hours are 08:00-12:00. Oh well.
Large church in the old town.
Cobbled street near the Capitania.
Mercado Central in Porto Alegre.
Old lake traders laid up in Porto Alegre. Much of the trade between Porto Alegre and the deep sea port at Rio Grande has been diverted to rail and road.
Rio Grande to Porto Alegre Day 4
25/01/11 22:27
It was a bit cloudy this morning with virtually no wind.
Our anchorage off Praia de Pedreira as we weighed anchor at 08:00.
The Rio Guaiba channel is deep and well buoyed. There are however many shallow areas outside the channel. Big ship traffic is not heavy and there is ample space for them to pass.
Taurogas on her way back to Rio Grande.
Approaching Porto Alegre.
Entrance to Veleiros do Sul at Porto Alegre.
A sunburnt skipper.
On entering Veleiros do Sul visiting yachts moor alongside a waiting berth, check-in with the guardias, and then move to an allocated berth. Our berth, #343 was on the central jetty just one boat from the shore. We moored bow to a concrete jetty with lines to two fendered poles astern and were able to step comfortably ashore over the bow.
Veleiros do Sul is a very impressive club with excellent facilities including shore power and wifi internet on board. We were made very welcome and later dined in their excellent restaurant.
Our anchorage off Praia de Pedreira as we weighed anchor at 08:00.
The Rio Guaiba channel is deep and well buoyed. There are however many shallow areas outside the channel. Big ship traffic is not heavy and there is ample space for them to pass.
Taurogas on her way back to Rio Grande.
Approaching Porto Alegre.
Entrance to Veleiros do Sul at Porto Alegre.
A sunburnt skipper.
On entering Veleiros do Sul visiting yachts moor alongside a waiting berth, check-in with the guardias, and then move to an allocated berth. Our berth, #343 was on the central jetty just one boat from the shore. We moored bow to a concrete jetty with lines to two fendered poles astern and were able to step comfortably ashore over the bow.
Veleiros do Sul is a very impressive club with excellent facilities including shore power and wifi internet on board. We were made very welcome and later dined in their excellent restaurant.
Rio Grande to Porto Alegre Day 2-3
23/01/11 22:14
Rio Grande to Porto Alegre Day Two.
We weighed anchor at 08:30 after a relaxing night and were clear of the channel and into Lago Dos Patos at 10:00. Once in the lake navigation is pretty straight forward up to the Rio Guaiba.
We were able to sail all day and into the night but overnight the wind eased.
Gas tanker "Taurogas" which shuttles between Porto Alegre and Rio Grande.
In the early hours we passed a narrow point in the lake where a long sandbank restricts navigation. A down bound vessel came quite close to us at this point.
Rio Grande to Porto Alegre Day Three.
By 09:00 the wind had pretty much died so we decided to motor on rather than wait about. It was a lovely sunny day.
Motor sailing on Lago Dos Patos.
A curios wreck en route.
Brazilian gas tanker "Guaiba"
We made good progress and reached Punta Itapua at the entrance to Rio Guaiba at 16:30.
I did not want to transit this river after dark so we anchored off Praia de Pedreira, just inside the river, for the night.
After a swim, we enjoyed dinner al fresco with a lovely sunset.
We weighed anchor at 08:30 after a relaxing night and were clear of the channel and into Lago Dos Patos at 10:00. Once in the lake navigation is pretty straight forward up to the Rio Guaiba.
We were able to sail all day and into the night but overnight the wind eased.
Gas tanker "Taurogas" which shuttles between Porto Alegre and Rio Grande.
In the early hours we passed a narrow point in the lake where a long sandbank restricts navigation. A down bound vessel came quite close to us at this point.
Rio Grande to Porto Alegre Day Three.
By 09:00 the wind had pretty much died so we decided to motor on rather than wait about. It was a lovely sunny day.
Motor sailing on Lago Dos Patos.
A curios wreck en route.
Brazilian gas tanker "Guaiba"
We made good progress and reached Punta Itapua at the entrance to Rio Guaiba at 16:30.
I did not want to transit this river after dark so we anchored off Praia de Pedreira, just inside the river, for the night.
After a swim, we enjoyed dinner al fresco with a lovely sunset.
Rio Grande to Porto Alegre Day 1
22/01/11 23:41
Brazilian type 209 submarine S31 Tamoio.
Brazilian Naval vessels, Frigate F40 Niteroi. Corvette V33 Frontin and Fleet Auxiliary G25 Almirante Sabóia (ex RFA Sir Bedivere).
F40 is a Niteroi class frigate built by Vosper Thorneycroft in the UK in 1976. We last saw her off Cabo Frio on 5th November 2008.
A Falklands registered fishing vessel taking bunkers.
Wreck.
Barge overtaking us and bound for Porto Alegre.
Brazilian Naval vessels, Frigate F40 Niteroi. Corvette V33 Frontin and Fleet Auxiliary G25 Almirante Sabóia (ex RFA Sir Bedivere).
F40 is a Niteroi class frigate built by Vosper Thorneycroft in the UK in 1976. We last saw her off Cabo Frio on 5th November 2008.
A Falklands registered fishing vessel taking bunkers.
Wreck.
Barge overtaking us and bound for Porto Alegre.
Splash and Dash
21/01/11 21:31
An Argentine boat lifted for a quick splash and dash. Note the ships derrick haul-out arrangements.
Stern Tube and Coupling then Beach
19/01/11 23:11
Old stern gland packing.
Stern gland with new packing.
All sealed up.
Stern gland with allen bolts and grub screw fitted and tightened as far as I dare. The engine was run forward and astern in gear. All seemed OK.
In the afternoon we took a bus down to the popular resort of ....... There is a huge beach and locals drive onto it and park. From here down to Uruguay is pretty much non stop beaches.
Stern gland with new packing.
All sealed up.
Stern gland with allen bolts and grub screw fitted and tightened as far as I dare. The engine was run forward and astern in gear. All seemed OK.
In the afternoon we took a bus down to the popular resort of ....... There is a huge beach and locals drive onto it and park. From here down to Uruguay is pretty much non stop beaches.
Rio Grande
17/01/11 21:50
Nancy and the replica lighthouse at the entrance to Yacht Club Rio Grande.
Plaza Tamandare, Rio Grande.
Plaza Tamandare, Rio Grande.
Rio Grande
13/01/11 23:43
PP-EMJ BM6 manufactured by MD Helicopters originally part of Hughes aircraft. This one is operated by the Brigada Militar and was landing a photographer at the oceanographic centre next door to Rio Grande Yacht Club.
Time to try and sort out my shaft coupling problem. I purchased an allen key socket with a long lever. Also planned to drill out a small hole for the grub screw but this bit was not up to it.
Coupling awaiting allen bolts. The pin shown does not locate properly with the indent on the shaft.
Time to try and sort out my shaft coupling problem. I purchased an allen key socket with a long lever. Also planned to drill out a small hole for the grub screw but this bit was not up to it.
Coupling awaiting allen bolts. The pin shown does not locate properly with the indent on the shaft.
Rio Grande
11/01/11 22:37
Early morning return to Rio Grande.
Kiriwina has been moved to a different mooring at Rio Grande Yacht Club. One warp is missing and the mooring arrangements are a bit agricultural.
Kiriwina has been moved to a different mooring at Rio Grande Yacht Club. One warp is missing and the mooring arrangements are a bit agricultural.
Buenos Aires to Rio Grande
10/01/11 22:54
Cacciola ferry from Tigre to Carmelo, Uruguay and then on by coach to Montevideo.
Crowded Hidrografia moorings in Carmelo.
Carmelo lifeboat.
Aging tug and barge.
Very, very long queue for customs and immigration at Carmelo.
Arriving at Tres Cruces coach terminal in Montevideo. Fire damage from last year is currently under repair.
Our EGA coach service into Brazil is full. Passports are retained at checkin and will be returned tomorrow morning. This thoughful approach means passengers are not woken when crossing from Uruguay into Brazil.
CGA coach sparkling clean. Even the tyres are freshly blackened.
Comfortable interior with slightly lurid trim.
Fire damage at Tres Cruces.
Street scenes en route eastwards out of Montevideo.
Crowded Hidrografia moorings in Carmelo.
Carmelo lifeboat.
Aging tug and barge.
Very, very long queue for customs and immigration at Carmelo.
Arriving at Tres Cruces coach terminal in Montevideo. Fire damage from last year is currently under repair.
Our EGA coach service into Brazil is full. Passports are retained at checkin and will be returned tomorrow morning. This thoughful approach means passengers are not woken when crossing from Uruguay into Brazil.
CGA coach sparkling clean. Even the tyres are freshly blackened.
Comfortable interior with slightly lurid trim.
Fire damage at Tres Cruces.
Street scenes en route eastwards out of Montevideo.