New Years Eve Florianopolis

Heavy rain all day today.

Stayed on board for most of the day.

View from the companionway.

Dinner at a packed Pizzeria Milano.

The rain continued. Oilies proved very useful.


Happy new year!

Fireworks phase one from barges offshore at BeiraMar. Stunning display to which the I-phone does not quite do justice. The rain eased off.

After about 25 minutes phase two started from the old bridge linking Santa Cartarina with the mainland.

Another 10 minutes culminating in a cascade of fire from the bridge. Much more spectacular than it looks here.

Then the rain set in again. Some Brazilians lingered dancing in the rain but most dispersed and headed home.

Praia Jurere

Cloudy and overcast this morning.

We drove up to Praia Jurere on the north west coast of Santa Catarina. A lovely spot with less crowding and more expensive cars.

Jackie and Nancy on Jurere beach.

Iate Clube Santa Catarina have a clubhouse, jetty and extensive facilities at Jurere. Visiting yachts can anchor or moor on a club buoy and have access to club facilities. The first two days are complimentary. I was quoted R$80 per day for each extra day.

Jackie with Jurere anchorage beyond.

It would be possible to anchor further around the beach and dinghy ashore without using ICSC facilities. We plan to sail there next week.

Praia Campeche

A lovely day today. Sunny and hot.

We drove down to Praia Campeche on the south east coast. Fairly heavy traffic on the way down.
En route we stopped to buy some beach kit. A folding chair and a 2m parasol.

Praia Campeche was another superb beach. Parking was R$10. Clean sand and water with the picturesque Ilha do Campeche just offshore. A cooling sea breeze blew throughout the afternoon.

On the way back we collected our laundry. R$52.50 for two loads wash and dry. 10 times the cost in


Praia Campeche

Praia Joaquina

First day on the beach today. Praia Joaquina on the east coast.


It was hot and sunny with a cooling sea breeze.

A good surf was running and I managed to get dumped, scraping a decent chunk of skin off the top of my head in the process.

The beach was very crowded with parasols and chairs renting for R$10 each per day. We haggled and got a set for only two hours for R$10.

#2 Crew - Jackie.

On the way back we stopped at Barra da Lagoa before returning in heavy traffic via the northern route.

Boxing Day - Florianopolis

The weather eased today.

Lighter winds and intermittent rain showers.

This bird perched on our starboard breast line looking for lunch.

It spotted a little fish.

Bam! First course is served.

Christmas Florianopolis

Heavy rain for most of the day.

It eased in the afternoon and we went for a bit of a tour.

Skipper and Nancy at a mirador in the rain. Dunes, Lagoa Conaceio, and Praia Joaquina in the distance.

Barra di Lagoa where Lagoa Conaceio empties into the sea.

Jackie at another mirador with Lagoa Conaceio behind.

Christmas Eve - Florianopolis

Heavy rain squalls and strong southerly winds today. On the berth we had 30 knots plus.
The yacht club was virtually deserted.


Number one jetty at Iate Clube Santa Catarina is particularly exposed to the south.

With strong winds there is a lot of surge on the berths and on board motion is quite violent. I found that my normal snubbers damage the lines with frequent jerking. The local remedy is to use car tyres. I doubled my bow lines with the windward one secured to a tyre.

Crews and marineros tending to lines. Crew from a neighbouring french boat had great difficulty getting ashore due to their long bowsprit.

All boats were pitching violently. Getting ashore involved waiting for the right moment and making a leap. My leap malfunctioned and I ended up standing on the grab line 6" above the water. I scrambled back on board with my phone and computer dry and intact. Could have been an expensive malfunction.


Enseada Pinheira to Florianopolis

Pinheira to Florianopolis

Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 6

Our course rounded Ilha Coral then proceeded roughly NW to the entrance to Enseada Pinheira.

A fairly straightforward approach with some added complications. It was pitch black, no moon and continuous light rain with restricted visibility at times.

Beyond Ilha Coral there were no lights of navigation aids of any sort. There is a large rock at the surface near the middle of the entrance. I simply followed my GPS course in and in the event arrived safely.

We anchored off Pinheira village at 02:00 IN 4.4 metres of water. There was a low residual swell making it's way into the bay. Of to my bunk for a good sleep.

Rio Grande to Pinheira

Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 5

At about 02:00 some 25 offshore with the coast converging it became apparent that we could no longer hold a safe course under sail and weather Cabo S. Marta Grande.

The wind had backed further to ENE-NE 14-18 knots and tacking would not do the job sending us off in the direction of South Africa. In the interests of maintaining good progress I had allowed a falling off from our course which nibbled away at our sea room cushion.

Now there was a penalty to paid. I decided to motor sail under main only. This put us back on a safe course and was later helped by the wind veering a tad.

At 12:00 Cabo S. Marta Grande was rounded.

Noon run 96.1 miles. 45 miles to go to Enseada Pinheira.

By now the wind had died away leaving us with slight seas and a long swell. At 15:00 a nice easterly breeze sprang up and we romped along under sail at 5 knots for two hours until the wind died again.

The weather on this trip has been curious and not quite as expected. Forecast SE to E became ESE to to ENE. The difference being pleasant sailing giving way to less pleasant conditions. Another reason to get well offshore on this coast.

We were not home yet. At 18:00 I heard, I thought, a strong wind warning of NE/SE F7-9 from Radio Laguna. The reception was poor and the broadcast in Portuguese but a little seeds of doubt were planted in my mind. We were where we were and there was no practical port of refuge.

During the day there had been one or two small rain squalls. Now in the early evening there was a slightly eerie oily swell and a long line of dark cloud on the SE horizon.

We pressed on doing about 4.2 knots under motor. At nightfall the cloud arrived with light misty rain and periods of much reduced visibility.

Progress was steady and even in a short moderate swell my new ST2000 tiller pilot steered a perfect course. It also got a good dousing as continuous light rain set in.

At midnight we were approaching Ilha Coral which was lit.

Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 4

After midnight the wind backed further to ENE at 18 knots. We were now beating and having to work to maintain our course.

I couldn't bear away because of the need to maintain plenty of sea room on this coast. At this point we were 41 miles offshore.

At 04:00 we passed the latitude of Porto Alegre and are now the farthest north we have been since December 2008.

Around dawn the wind increased to 22 knots where it stayed all day.

Noon run 99 miles.

What a contrast to yesterday. Conditions have become unpleasant with a dark cloudy sky. Sailing conditions became uncomfortable. Bang bang bang hard on the wind all day.

Late in the evening the wind eased slightly to 18 knots as we proceeded in a moderate sea with long swell.

Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 3

Around midnight the wind backed then died away to less than 5 knots. We spent the early hours ghosting along at around 1 knot.

Then at around 08:00 the wind resumed from the SE to 12-14 knots. A glorious morning's sailing and I sat in the cockpit thoroughly enjoying it. The sea was a deep blue under a celeste sky with scattered light fluffy clouds. The stuff armchair sailors dream of.

Noon run 72.1 miles. Not bad considering 8 hours of ghosting.

A little mistake on my Navionics electronic chart.

Glorious sailing.

Later in the afternoon and on into the evening the wind increased to around 17knots and backed ESE/E.

Car carrier "Shenandoah Highway" northbound to seaward.

Later with the wind at 22 knots I put one reef in the main and took in 50% of the yankee.

Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 2

Overnight the wind settled to around 22 knots SSE with a moderate sea and swell. I chose to sail a bit closer to the wind to get offshore as quickly as possible.

Some fishing and commercial traffic during the night but nothing too close.

By morning conditions eased with the wind variable but settling around 12kn SSE-SE.

Noon run 73 miles. Very good speed and if maintained will see us in Enseada Pinheira early monday afternoon. The set on shore appears much reduced and we are now 25 miles offshore on our charted course.

A relaxing afternoon at sea. Speed 4.2knots and the sounder just reading "Deep".

Tanker "Gan Triumph" in ballast bound SE.

Lovely red sunset with a container ship silhouetted on the Horizon?

Later a Brazilian fishing vessel came quite close and dropped a buoy illuminated with a tiny strobe light. Very difficult to see at 2-300 metres.

No change during the evening. Lovely conditions. Good sailing.

Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 1

There was a good chance of being able to leave today. Up early to walk into town to check the weather. It looked very good. A five day window of favourable winds.

Took a moto taxi to the Capitania for clearance and buy some charts for Ilha Santa Catarina. Brazilian charts cost R$45 each (about £16). I'm not sure they are corrected to date but they are what they are.

Back on board after topping up with vegetables and Kiriwina was ready to go. WE left the berth at 14:30. It was a bit of a slog downstream with headwinds reaching 25 knots in cloudy squalls.

Something was happening with the fish. There were small and medium size fishing boats charging about all over the channel. They would stop, fish and then move on. I saw one boat heading back loaded to the gunwhales with a good catch. Clearly there were fish to be had.


About 8 larger inshore fishing boats were anchored inside the breakwater. I wondered if they knew something I didn't.

Anyway, off we went and cleared the breakwater at 18:00 and shortly afterwards shut the motor down and proceeded under sail. Wind SSE 5.

At first we were doing 6.3kn over the ground with a noticeable shoreward set. Around 20:00 the wind quickly strengthened to 27 knots followed by some equally rapid reefing.

We made good progress and by midnight the wind had eased to 17knots.

Rio Grande

After a very good night's sleep I was up at 08:30. The wind was still strong but was dropping.

My fender rig from last night. One can never have too many fenders.

First job was to take care of formalities.

The Policia Federal are conveniently located en route to the town centre. It took about 15 minutes there to formally enter Brazil and have my passport stamped. Then I stopped by Cafe Plaza to check and send mail. Interesting that the Brazilian marine forecast yesterday was NE Force 6-7. Without motor sailing and getting in quickly we would have taken a spanking.

Next, a moto taxi (R$5) down to the Receita at dock gate 5.
This was my third visit there and I have come to enjoy my chats with Senhor Gremio who is a fount of information on just about anything. This time he enlightened my on contractual difficulties with World Cup stadia and the financial behemoth that is Petrobras. He also told me that the burnt out
Turkish ship that was here last year has been towed to Singapore for scrap. Singapore?

There was a short delay while a newly installed network printer malfunctioned. Only one person knew how to use it. Then I was on my way up to the Capitania where I was told that the handling person was at lunch but no problem this officer would get me processed. All done in about 15 minutes. Great.

Back on the boat I was advised that the Receita had called and asked me to stay on board. There was a problem with my paperwork. Oh dear! When I was here earlier this year the Receita arrested another yacht.

Kiriwina on the Museo berth at Rio Grande

Later Senhor Bastos from the Receita came on board bringing corrected paperwork. There was a typo which limited my Kiriwina's stay in Brazil to two weeks instead of three months. I was über impressed. He came all the way to my boat. He could have just asked me to return. Thanks Senhor Bastos.

The weather is looking good for a departure tomorrow or Friday.

This evening the heavens opened with violent gusts and heavy rain. Won't have to rinse the salt off tomorrow.

Passage to Rio Grande - Day 4

Early this morning the wind started to back. It had been forecast to back and increase to force 6-7 but not until tomorrow. I don't like motoring on passage but here I was faced with approaching strong head winds. By motor sailing I could maintain my course and with good speed reach harbour before the worst arrived.

The engine went on.

Motor sailing hard on the wind around 14:00, 2 hours south of Rio Grande. Getting rid of Piriapolis dust.

Approaching Rio Grande channel 40 minutes out. Car carrier "Canadian Highway" proceeding in.

Approaching the breakwaters about 20 minutes out.

Roly poly in the channel.

At this point the wind had eased to 18 knots from 25. We were running at about half revs with one reef in the main and half yankee. 6.6 knots on the meter, depth 16.3 metres.

Almost in. The sea has eased but the swell is still there.

Entering the breakwaters and a lovely calm.

Further in near the container berths I had the sails down but was going very slowly under motor. This was a very strong ebb. I hoisted about 2/3 yankee and gained a couple of knots.

By the time this swinging ship was passed the wind was around 25knots gusting higher.

Then it became a dour slog. The channel curved bringing us head to wind and on a strong ebb. Yuk. Speed dropped to less than one knot. No fun. I tried tacking back and forth across the channel but even with the motor running we trod water. Nothing for it but to take the one knot and edge up channel.

After about two hours we finally turned into the sheltered link channel. Speed picked up and I could prepare lines and fenders.

Last year there was a burnt out Turkish ship here. This one is the new "Petrobras 58" fitting out.

It was getting dark as we passed "Canadian Highway". A pretty ship she is not.

Out of the link channel we turned into the old harbour and rocketed along the channel with the wind, around 20 knots and increasing, astern.

Our previous berth at the Museo was vacant so I was able to point into the wind, ghost alongside and leap ashore with two lines. We were safely all fast at 20:45 but just in time as the wind reached 27 knots gusting higher a wee bit later. I had calculated 2 hours for the harbour passage. It took nearly 5.

With the wind from the NE the old fender pop-out problem I first saw in Holland back in 2006 was again an issue. A strong wind pushes the boat hard onto a berth. With sufficient fetch the water is disturbed causing the boat to move up and down in a short jerky motion. If one is not very careful with fender placement they will pop out leaving the hull to grind against the dock.

I collapsed into my bunk.
Pitapolis to Rio Grande

Piriapolis - Deep Locker Seals 2

As forecast, strongish (F5) NE winds continued today with the water level dropping slowly throughout the day.

With stronger thinners to dissolve residual glue I continued refurbishing both deep locker seals. Very fiddly and time consuming work but finally completed.



Also did some sewing repairs on the sprayhood. Should be good for another year.

Main seam.

Grab handle.

Piriapolis - Deep Locker Seals

For some time now I have been wanting to tackle the deep locker lid seals. The lids themselves comprise a GRP frame with an inner top screwed in place. This inner top has been roughly sealed with gelcoat. The end result is a poorly finished agricultural bodge.

Poorly applied gelcoat breaking up in places. This needs to be made good with epoxy filler.

Neoprene seals are in pretty good knick but the the original glue and touchup glue has suffered not coped well with heat over the years.

Poor quality glue has allowed the seals to move and scrunch up in places.

To seal properly the neoprene needs to be hard against the lid edges.

The job entails removing all seals, cleaning them up, removing all residual glue from the lid and re-gluing the seals in place. A very slow and fiddly process slowed further by my lack of good thinners to remove the glue.

Split Pin Taping.

Spent an hour hosing off all the salt accumulated during recent strong S-SE winds.

The standard method of taping split pins is to use electrical tape. Sadly, this tape does not do well in a hot climate. It starts to come off pretty quickly. Three years ago in Bahia I tried duct tape. This was more durable but when removed here, in Piriapolis, for a rigging check much of the outer layer had worn away leaving the membrane and hardened glue.

My latest idea is to apply electrical tape in the usual way but then add an outer layer of reflective silver tape. This silver tape is sold in Argentina and used to protect exterior insulation on domestic air conditioner piping. We shall see.


In most Hidrografia ports n Uruguay the standard mooring arrangement is two lines astern to a buoy/s and two bow lines to the dock. After some experimentation I use this type of hook with a stainless steel shackle. The mooring line is attached using a long lead bowline with a round turn on the shackle. For longer periods it would be better to splice a stainless steel thimble to the line.

I noticed that my hook did not seem to be hanging correctly. Pulling the boat back to the buoy I discovered that the Hidrografia had added a new larger shackle to the buoy.

They did so without removing my hook from the existing shackle first. End result, a dogs breakfast whereby my hook was jammed in place by the new shackle.

I had to get the adjacent boat to slack his line and then put a line round the bottom of the buoy to winch it up so I could ease the load and free my hook. A process which took 45 minutes in calm conditions. Tango India Uniform.

After tidying.

Liferaft Collection

Took the 08:50 coach into Montevideo and then a collectivo down to Ciudad Vieja.

First stop was a chart agency in Ciudad Vieja. I wanted to buy Uruguayan chart #50 (Montevideo to Colonia) and Brazilian charts for Florianapolis and approaches. It seems most Uruguayan charts are out of stock (as they were in BsAs as well) but a did get one of Montevideo and approaches. Cost US$31.50. They didn't stock Brazilian charts.

Then on to LCL Shipchandlers to pick up my liferaft. Final cost US$310. The original quote was US$400 but I chose not to replace a bottle of seasick pills at US$45 and reduced the flare count by one saving a further US$45. Unlike 2007 in Tenerife they gave me a certificate for three years.

Met Günter from "Cora Mae" for another fine lunch in Estancia del Puerto in the old market before returning to piriapolis.

Tiller Pilot Wiring Check

Deckhead Holes

Liferaft Service

Cerro de Torro