To Coimbra
30/07/07 19:49 Filed in: Portugal
The town of Coimbra is about an hour by train inland from Figueira da Foz. The university there is one of the oldest in Europe (1200ish) and was said to be worth a visit and I had been told about a new footbridge built there last year which was said to be quite stunning.
There are two stations in Coimbra and my train stopped at the second which is some distance from the town centre. My walk into town was not encouraging with the outskirts of Coimbra being quite horrible. Once into the old town things became more interesting.
Most of Coimbra is on the south bank of the river (which drains to the sea at Figueira da Foz). Along this river bank are a series of public gardens in three phases. The first two are mature with large trees and plenty of shade. The third phase is very recent, modern in design, but with few trees. Where this phase ends a new pedestrian bridge,named Ponte Pedonal Pedro E Inés, has been built across the river. It was opened by the president of Portugal in November 2006 and was designed by Cecil Balmond, a British architect, and funded by EU grants.
At present the bridge seems to go from nowhere to nowhere although there are building sites near each end and in future it may link two new residential developments.
The bridge however is something completely different and is quite stunning.
From upstream or downstream it just looks like a new modern bridge.
But as one approaches things are not what they seem. The bridge has a curve in the middle.
The sides comprise panels of pastel coloured polycarbonate (I think) set at shallow angles from each other.
Access is via stairs or ramp both paved with slate.
Looking up at the university from the bridge.
The two halves are offset by one bridge width in the centre as though construction started from each bank without checking that the structures would meet in the middle and a kink added later to join the two together. The kink was of course all part of the design.
The hand rails zig-zag all the way across creating a series of bays where people naturally lean.
The panels catch the sun by day and are illuminated at night by recessed lighting at the edge of the footway.
At the centre where the two spans meet the bridge is double its normal width.
This is also the highest point.
Panels angled to catch light in a variety of ways.
Box section structure and the centre offset.
From downstream the curve starts to disappear.
Slate fountain in the new gardens nearby.
And the old style gardens with shady canopy.
University courtyard, previously a royal palace, on a high point overlooking the river.
View down river from the university. Ponte Pedonal Pedro E Inés is just visible in the foreground. The larger structure is a road bridge.
A more modern design for the university library...
...I liked these lights.
This lovely building is the Faculdade de Farmacia.
One ot the old gates in the city wall with roadway leading up to the university.
There are two stations in Coimbra and my train stopped at the second which is some distance from the town centre. My walk into town was not encouraging with the outskirts of Coimbra being quite horrible. Once into the old town things became more interesting.
Most of Coimbra is on the south bank of the river (which drains to the sea at Figueira da Foz). Along this river bank are a series of public gardens in three phases. The first two are mature with large trees and plenty of shade. The third phase is very recent, modern in design, but with few trees. Where this phase ends a new pedestrian bridge,named Ponte Pedonal Pedro E Inés, has been built across the river. It was opened by the president of Portugal in November 2006 and was designed by Cecil Balmond, a British architect, and funded by EU grants.
At present the bridge seems to go from nowhere to nowhere although there are building sites near each end and in future it may link two new residential developments.
The bridge however is something completely different and is quite stunning.
From upstream or downstream it just looks like a new modern bridge.
But as one approaches things are not what they seem. The bridge has a curve in the middle.
The sides comprise panels of pastel coloured polycarbonate (I think) set at shallow angles from each other.
Access is via stairs or ramp both paved with slate.
Looking up at the university from the bridge.
The two halves are offset by one bridge width in the centre as though construction started from each bank without checking that the structures would meet in the middle and a kink added later to join the two together. The kink was of course all part of the design.
The hand rails zig-zag all the way across creating a series of bays where people naturally lean.
The panels catch the sun by day and are illuminated at night by recessed lighting at the edge of the footway.
At the centre where the two spans meet the bridge is double its normal width.
This is also the highest point.
Panels angled to catch light in a variety of ways.
Box section structure and the centre offset.
From downstream the curve starts to disappear.
Slate fountain in the new gardens nearby.
And the old style gardens with shady canopy.
University courtyard, previously a royal palace, on a high point overlooking the river.
View down river from the university. Ponte Pedonal Pedro E Inés is just visible in the foreground. The larger structure is a road bridge.
A more modern design for the university library...
...I liked these lights.
This lovely building is the Faculdade de Farmacia.
One ot the old gates in the city wall with roadway leading up to the university.
Porto to Figueira da Foz
29/07/07 18:48 Filed in: Portugal
Up early to catch the tide. We left the berth at 05:30 with the ebb already well underway. This made for a fast passage down river.
Between the lower motorway bridge and the first channel buoy the lowest depth noted was 2.9m. We cleared the entrance at 06:06 and there the lowest depth noted was 7.9 metres.
It remains to be seen how the new river entrance will look but in settled conditions at high tide access to Porto seems pretty straightforward. Kiriwina is only 28ft LOA but I visted as crew on a 54ft yacht 3 years ago also without difficulty.
There was very little wind and we motorsailed most of the way arriving off Figueira da Foz at 17:45. We berthed alongside the reception barge at 18:00 and were all fast in our allocated berth by 18:30.
I was not impressed with this marina three years ago. It was badly maintained and the compulsory arrival mooring alongside a barge was not even fitted with cleats. Nothing had changed and the mooring cost was an eyewatering €21.45 per day. These people are taking the mickey. They know the marina is in poor condition but reckon they can get away with these sort of costs as there is not a lot of choice on this part of the coast.
Daily run 58.4 miles (GPS 64.85) a combination of help from the current and, I suspec, the log under reading.
River Douro entrance from upstream.
Our first sight of dolphins since leaving the Ria Camarinas.
Between the lower motorway bridge and the first channel buoy the lowest depth noted was 2.9m. We cleared the entrance at 06:06 and there the lowest depth noted was 7.9 metres.
It remains to be seen how the new river entrance will look but in settled conditions at high tide access to Porto seems pretty straightforward. Kiriwina is only 28ft LOA but I visted as crew on a 54ft yacht 3 years ago also without difficulty.
There was very little wind and we motorsailed most of the way arriving off Figueira da Foz at 17:45. We berthed alongside the reception barge at 18:00 and were all fast in our allocated berth by 18:30.
I was not impressed with this marina three years ago. It was badly maintained and the compulsory arrival mooring alongside a barge was not even fitted with cleats. Nothing had changed and the mooring cost was an eyewatering €21.45 per day. These people are taking the mickey. They know the marina is in poor condition but reckon they can get away with these sort of costs as there is not a lot of choice on this part of the coast.
Daily run 58.4 miles (GPS 64.85) a combination of help from the current and, I suspec, the log under reading.
River Douro entrance from upstream.
Our first sight of dolphins since leaving the Ria Camarinas.
Povoa de Varzim to Porto
28/06/07 19:46 Filed in: Portugal
The marina at Pova de Varzim is very reasonably priced and the staff are very helpful but I found the town itself less compelling.
Perhaps my opinion was influenced by my first exposure to a little scam operated in some Portuguese restaurants. Prior to the ordered dishes arriving selection of nibblies are bought to the table. If one is tempted, which I was not, the bill can increase substantially. In my case around 30% until I pointed out that I hadn't asked for nor eaten the items in question and the bill was reduced.
The new Porto metro extends as far as Povoa de Varzim so it's a good place to stop and visit Porto but I wanted to take my boat into Porto.
At 10:00 we cleared Povoa marina and motor sailed south in light winds arriving off the river Douro entrance at 13:00. I was unable to locate the charted leads so I simply watched a fishing boat enter and followed. New breakwaters are being constructed at the entrance but with just an hour until high water we had in excess of 8m depth.
New southern breakwater.
New northern breakwater with the old one behind.
Looking back out to sea.
River Douro - Approaching the lower motorway bridge
The water shallows between the last of the entrance channel buoys and this bridge.
Once we were past the bridge the wind began to increase and was gusting 18 knots up river by the time we reached Cais do Etiva.
There was plenty of help to take our lines and by 14:10 we were all fast at the upriver end of Cais do Etiva. Long warps and a fender board are essential on this berth where the river runs fast and the rise and fall is at least two metres on a very high quay. There are ladders set into the quay wall.
It took a bit of experimenting to get the moorings adjusted. I found that tying the fender board directly onto the fenders worked best. Matters were complicated by an ebbing tide pushing the boat downstream but gusting winds pushed her upstream. Towards evening the wind died and Kiriwina sat comfortably alongside.
Mooring is free but reporting is still required at the Brigada Fiscal office overlooking the quay.
Fender board arrangement.
Quay height necessitated tying off the Superwind to avoid blade damage. Wake from passing traffic can cause unexpected movement when alongside.
Fast tidal ebb around the quay.
Kiriwina alongside at about half tide with the south bank Port warehouses behind.
Cais do Etiva, with Kiriwina alongside, viewed from the south bank of the River Douro. I was thrilled to have my boat moored in this magificent setting.
A closer view of traditional Port boats.
Moonrise over the observatory and river Douro at Porto.
As darkness falls the Port signs light up.
River Douro at Porto - South bank at night.
Perhaps my opinion was influenced by my first exposure to a little scam operated in some Portuguese restaurants. Prior to the ordered dishes arriving selection of nibblies are bought to the table. If one is tempted, which I was not, the bill can increase substantially. In my case around 30% until I pointed out that I hadn't asked for nor eaten the items in question and the bill was reduced.
The new Porto metro extends as far as Povoa de Varzim so it's a good place to stop and visit Porto but I wanted to take my boat into Porto.
At 10:00 we cleared Povoa marina and motor sailed south in light winds arriving off the river Douro entrance at 13:00. I was unable to locate the charted leads so I simply watched a fishing boat enter and followed. New breakwaters are being constructed at the entrance but with just an hour until high water we had in excess of 8m depth.
New southern breakwater.
New northern breakwater with the old one behind.
Looking back out to sea.
River Douro - Approaching the lower motorway bridge
The water shallows between the last of the entrance channel buoys and this bridge.
Once we were past the bridge the wind began to increase and was gusting 18 knots up river by the time we reached Cais do Etiva.
There was plenty of help to take our lines and by 14:10 we were all fast at the upriver end of Cais do Etiva. Long warps and a fender board are essential on this berth where the river runs fast and the rise and fall is at least two metres on a very high quay. There are ladders set into the quay wall.
It took a bit of experimenting to get the moorings adjusted. I found that tying the fender board directly onto the fenders worked best. Matters were complicated by an ebbing tide pushing the boat downstream but gusting winds pushed her upstream. Towards evening the wind died and Kiriwina sat comfortably alongside.
Mooring is free but reporting is still required at the Brigada Fiscal office overlooking the quay.
Fender board arrangement.
Quay height necessitated tying off the Superwind to avoid blade damage. Wake from passing traffic can cause unexpected movement when alongside.
Fast tidal ebb around the quay.
Kiriwina alongside at about half tide with the south bank Port warehouses behind.
Cais do Etiva, with Kiriwina alongside, viewed from the south bank of the River Douro. I was thrilled to have my boat moored in this magificent setting.
A closer view of traditional Port boats.
Moonrise over the observatory and river Douro at Porto.
As darkness falls the Port signs light up.
River Douro at Porto - South bank at night.
Viana do Castello to Povoa de Varzim
26/06/07 13:20 Filed in: Portugal
Well that was fun. We cleared Viana harbour at 11:40 and were snug in our berth at Povoa de Varzim by 13:25.
The forecast was for northerly winds of 15 knots (F7). What we got was up to 30 knots (F7). Leaving Viana we had one reef in the main and full yankee which was OK but as the wind increased we went to one third then no yankee.
With the wind virtually dead astern and a 2m swell we were almost surfing at times and made good speeds up to 6.1 knots. Dame Kiri (our Aries) steered the whole way and coped admirably. Our speed was enhanced by a southerly current of about 1.5 knots.
Approaching Povoa de Varzim the winds were F7 and while there was no problem with the harbour entrance I made a complete hash of getting into my allocated upwind berth. I got the speed wrong going in and was blown off line. It then proved impossible to turn the boat and try again so I slotted into a downwind berth with the throttle almost full astern. It's times like these when one can see why current production Vancouver 28's have been supplied with 30hp engines rather than the 20 we have.
Day's run 16.4 miles. Marina cost €8.99 per day.
The forecast was for northerly winds of 15 knots (F7). What we got was up to 30 knots (F7). Leaving Viana we had one reef in the main and full yankee which was OK but as the wind increased we went to one third then no yankee.
With the wind virtually dead astern and a 2m swell we were almost surfing at times and made good speeds up to 6.1 knots. Dame Kiri (our Aries) steered the whole way and coped admirably. Our speed was enhanced by a southerly current of about 1.5 knots.
Approaching Povoa de Varzim the winds were F7 and while there was no problem with the harbour entrance I made a complete hash of getting into my allocated upwind berth. I got the speed wrong going in and was blown off line. It then proved impossible to turn the boat and try again so I slotted into a downwind berth with the throttle almost full astern. It's times like these when one can see why current production Vancouver 28's have been supplied with 30hp engines rather than the 20 we have.
Day's run 16.4 miles. Marina cost €8.99 per day.
To Porto
24/06/07 13:18 Filed in: Portugal
With a SW element in the forecast we wouldn't be sailing south today. I decided to catch the train down to Porto. I plan to call there later in the week and it was an opportunity to check berthing arrangements.
The journey down took about one and a half hours through very green countryside and small towns. We also passed very slowly over the Eiffel bridge.
An imposing welcome. This is the scene that greets the traveller arriving in the booking hall of Porto's Sao Bento station. Wow! All four walls feature beautiful tilework depiciting a variety of historical scenes.
It was about a 15 minute walk downhill to the north bank of the Douro river. Some typical waterfront buildings.
One of many narrow streets leading uphill away from the river.
Porto is built on both steep sided banks of the river Douro. It is a city of bridges of which this one, the "Louis 1" bridge is probably the most spectacular. seen here from the north bank with the observatory above.
I took a boat tour which lasts about 45 minutes and from which one could see the six major bridges spanning the Douro at Porto. The tour goes as far as the river mouth downstream and about 1.5 kilometres upstream. This is the Louis 1 bridge seen from upstream.
The old railway bridge viewed from upstream with a modern road bridge beyond. Use the term old because this one appeared not to be in use and there is a more modern railway bridge further upstream.
The Louis 1 bridge viewed from the observatory. The upper deck carries Metro do Porto trains and pedestrians while the lower deck is for road traffic and pedestrians.
Port wine warehouses on the south bank viewed from a riverboat.
A view west towards the sea from the observatory. In the distance is a fairly recent motorway bridge. The cluster of boats on the north quay includes a visiting Portuguese navy patrol boat, a gaggle of tour boats and squeezed onto the quay just ahead of the warship are two small visiting yachts.
This is where I hope to come with Kiriwina in a few days. There are no facilitis at all for yachts and one just has to find a space on the quay. The ebb tide can reach speeds of 5-6 knots and even more if the river flow is swollen by rain.
The small crafted moored alongside on the south bank are traditional sailing boats used to ferry Port wine in barrels down the river. They are now ceremonial and shortly after this photo was taken they were to take part in a race.
Porto has a brand spanking new Metro system. It's very impressive with rolling stock supplied by the Canadian company Bombardier.
I had to smile at this bit of low tech amongst all the high tech and wonder if somebody really did forget that train stations need buffers.
The journey down took about one and a half hours through very green countryside and small towns. We also passed very slowly over the Eiffel bridge.
An imposing welcome. This is the scene that greets the traveller arriving in the booking hall of Porto's Sao Bento station. Wow! All four walls feature beautiful tilework depiciting a variety of historical scenes.
It was about a 15 minute walk downhill to the north bank of the Douro river. Some typical waterfront buildings.
One of many narrow streets leading uphill away from the river.
Porto is built on both steep sided banks of the river Douro. It is a city of bridges of which this one, the "Louis 1" bridge is probably the most spectacular. seen here from the north bank with the observatory above.
I took a boat tour which lasts about 45 minutes and from which one could see the six major bridges spanning the Douro at Porto. The tour goes as far as the river mouth downstream and about 1.5 kilometres upstream. This is the Louis 1 bridge seen from upstream.
The old railway bridge viewed from upstream with a modern road bridge beyond. Use the term old because this one appeared not to be in use and there is a more modern railway bridge further upstream.
The Louis 1 bridge viewed from the observatory. The upper deck carries Metro do Porto trains and pedestrians while the lower deck is for road traffic and pedestrians.
Port wine warehouses on the south bank viewed from a riverboat.
A view west towards the sea from the observatory. In the distance is a fairly recent motorway bridge. The cluster of boats on the north quay includes a visiting Portuguese navy patrol boat, a gaggle of tour boats and squeezed onto the quay just ahead of the warship are two small visiting yachts.
This is where I hope to come with Kiriwina in a few days. There are no facilitis at all for yachts and one just has to find a space on the quay. The ebb tide can reach speeds of 5-6 knots and even more if the river flow is swollen by rain.
The small crafted moored alongside on the south bank are traditional sailing boats used to ferry Port wine in barrels down the river. They are now ceremonial and shortly after this photo was taken they were to take part in a race.
Porto has a brand spanking new Metro system. It's very impressive with rolling stock supplied by the Canadian company Bombardier.
I had to smile at this bit of low tech amongst all the high tech and wonder if somebody really did forget that train stations need buffers.
Viana do Castelo - A walk around.
23/06/07 13:15 Filed in: Portugal
The more one looks around the town the more attractive it becomes. The detailing on many buildings is impressive.
This is a school that it is situated on the main street. A lovely well kept building.
Each end of the building has a tiled scene of local significance and a little statue of a pupil with half the alphabet set into the plinth. This picture shows the schoolboy...
and this one the schoolgirl.
The imposing entrance to the recently restored funicular railway linking Viana do Castelo to the church of Santa Luzia which can just be seen at top left.
Detailed tilework, showing the church of Santa Luzia, from the lower funicular station interior.
More tiles.
Looking down at the old town from the funicular railway. This railway, dating from early last century, has been completely restored. The track, two carriages and control systems are completely new but the upper and lower terminals retain much of their period charm.
The church of Santa Luzia. This was the building visible well out to sea. The views from here are stunning and it is a very popular spot. I was there on a saturday afternoon along with at least 30 coach loads of other visitors.
Looking down at the Eiffel bridge with the marina and swing bridge to the right. The tall unsympathetic building, at far right, is, according to the marina manager, to be demolished very soon.
The Eiffel bridge is a wonderfully complex meccano type road/rail bridge so named because its constuctors also built the Eiffel tower. The bridge has been closed to road traffic for two years for renovation but is due to open in October 2007.
Viana do Castelo harbour entrance looking south.
Later in the evening while strolling around a modern shopping complex tucked discreetly away behind the railway station I noticed this model railway. It is mounted about 3 feet below the third floor ceiling and circles a large food hall before disappearing into a shop, then emerging to follow a row of shops before returning to complete the circuit. Quite why it was there was unclear but I liked it.
Viana do Castelo Station
This is a school that it is situated on the main street. A lovely well kept building.
Each end of the building has a tiled scene of local significance and a little statue of a pupil with half the alphabet set into the plinth. This picture shows the schoolboy...
and this one the schoolgirl.
The imposing entrance to the recently restored funicular railway linking Viana do Castelo to the church of Santa Luzia which can just be seen at top left.
Detailed tilework, showing the church of Santa Luzia, from the lower funicular station interior.
More tiles.
Looking down at the old town from the funicular railway. This railway, dating from early last century, has been completely restored. The track, two carriages and control systems are completely new but the upper and lower terminals retain much of their period charm.
The church of Santa Luzia. This was the building visible well out to sea. The views from here are stunning and it is a very popular spot. I was there on a saturday afternoon along with at least 30 coach loads of other visitors.
Looking down at the Eiffel bridge with the marina and swing bridge to the right. The tall unsympathetic building, at far right, is, according to the marina manager, to be demolished very soon.
The Eiffel bridge is a wonderfully complex meccano type road/rail bridge so named because its constuctors also built the Eiffel tower. The bridge has been closed to road traffic for two years for renovation but is due to open in October 2007.
Viana do Castelo harbour entrance looking south.
Later in the evening while strolling around a modern shopping complex tucked discreetly away behind the railway station I noticed this model railway. It is mounted about 3 feet below the third floor ceiling and circles a large food hall before disappearing into a shop, then emerging to follow a row of shops before returning to complete the circuit. Quite why it was there was unclear but I liked it.
Viana do Castelo Station
Viana do Castelo - Hospital Ship "Gil Eannes"
23/06/07 11:59 Filed in: Portugal
This was a real trip down memory lane. When I first went to sea I sailed on several ships of this vintage.
The "Gil Eannes" was designed and built in Viana do Castelo in 1955 as a hospital/supply ship for the Portuguese fishing fleet operating on the grand banks and off the coast of Greenland.
She was a very versatile ship. Refrigerated cargo holds to take bait outwards and frozen catch back as well as general stores and supplies outwards, a strengthened hull for ice navigation, a dental surgery, fully equipped operating theatres, X-Ray room, a patient lift between theatres and wards, extensive accommodation for doctors, nurses and patients in addition to her regular crew and some serious towing kit which enabled here to act as an ocean going tug if required.
She made her last trip to the fishing grounds in 1973 and after a trip to Brazil was laid up in Lisbon. In 1997 she was saved from the scrapyard by the "Gil Eannes Foundation" and returned to Viana do Castello for restoration. She opened to the public in 1998.
Much of her original equipment remains on board so during the tour one sees not only period navigation and engineering equipment but that of catering, medical/surgery, and dentistry.
Bridge and number two of 4 hatches. She is a very attractive looking ship with lovely lines and curves. Think 1950's cars. There are numerous examples of plating whose sole purpose is to make the ship look good.
Foredeck number two cargo hatch and with 2 1/2" wooden decking finally showing its age after more than 50 years.
Aft boat deck and number three hatch.
The beautiful funnel. It did not need to look like this but it looks a lot better than just a collection of exhaust pipes.
The bakery...
....and the galley
Engine room switch panel.
One of two Fairbanks Morse main diesel engines.
Engine room sounding board. Every ship has one of these to record the levels of fuel and ballast tanks.
The point of the exercise. Atlantic Cod. The one in the photo weighed 70kg. Of course there are none left now. The Grand Banks were fished beyond the point of sustainability.
North Atlantic currents in June.
"Gil Eames" returning to Viana do Castelo in 1997....
....and as she looks today.
The "Gil Eannes" was designed and built in Viana do Castelo in 1955 as a hospital/supply ship for the Portuguese fishing fleet operating on the grand banks and off the coast of Greenland.
She was a very versatile ship. Refrigerated cargo holds to take bait outwards and frozen catch back as well as general stores and supplies outwards, a strengthened hull for ice navigation, a dental surgery, fully equipped operating theatres, X-Ray room, a patient lift between theatres and wards, extensive accommodation for doctors, nurses and patients in addition to her regular crew and some serious towing kit which enabled here to act as an ocean going tug if required.
She made her last trip to the fishing grounds in 1973 and after a trip to Brazil was laid up in Lisbon. In 1997 she was saved from the scrapyard by the "Gil Eannes Foundation" and returned to Viana do Castello for restoration. She opened to the public in 1998.
Much of her original equipment remains on board so during the tour one sees not only period navigation and engineering equipment but that of catering, medical/surgery, and dentistry.
Bridge and number two of 4 hatches. She is a very attractive looking ship with lovely lines and curves. Think 1950's cars. There are numerous examples of plating whose sole purpose is to make the ship look good.
Foredeck number two cargo hatch and with 2 1/2" wooden decking finally showing its age after more than 50 years.
Aft boat deck and number three hatch.
The beautiful funnel. It did not need to look like this but it looks a lot better than just a collection of exhaust pipes.
The bakery...
....and the galley
Engine room switch panel.
One of two Fairbanks Morse main diesel engines.
Engine room sounding board. Every ship has one of these to record the levels of fuel and ballast tanks.
The point of the exercise. Atlantic Cod. The one in the photo weighed 70kg. Of course there are none left now. The Grand Banks were fished beyond the point of sustainability.
North Atlantic currents in June.
"Gil Eames" returning to Viana do Castelo in 1997....
....and as she looks today.
Viana Do Castelo
22/06/07 15:17 Filed in: Portugal
While returning to the boat this morning after a shower I noticed "Northern Sky" moored on the layby berth. I had last seen Gerry and Isolde in Villagarcia back in May.
It was good to see them again. They had been delayed in Villagarcia while awaiting delivery of some custom fittings and had sailed directly from Villagarcia to Viana do Castelo.
They were sailing in a few hours but we had time for a quick coffee and a visit to a hardware store to fop up on gas. Gerry ran into the gas fittings compatibility problem. His boat is fitted with Calor fittings and bottles but the store only had Camping Gaz. The bottles and plumbing are not compatible but Gerry bought two bottles and would sort the plumbing out later.
Gerry & Isolde
"Northern Sky" on her way south.
My gas levels were quite low and I took the chance to aquire two full bottles (cost €9 per 4.3 kg bottle). I had replaced one in la Coruna but in the bustle of a busy shop I had been supplied with a bottle with only marginally more gas than my empty one. Our consumption of gas on Kiriwina is quite low and I had forgotten how heavy a full bottle is. A set of spring scales are now on the shopping list to verify future purchases.
Vina do Castelo is a very pretty little town. It is very obvious that we are in a different country. In Spain the modern built envirionment was often a bit of a mess with little sympathy shown to heritage buildings. It seems different here. The older town is largely intact and newer buildings are generally sympathetic. Their use of creative tiling is impressive.
Leaving the marina one walks into town though a canopied garden paralleling the river.
Buildings in the old quarter are mostly low rise and traffic flow is restricted and unobtrussive.
I visited the friday market and, unusually, bought a few things. Beach towels the size of a small field for €7.50, cotton t-shirts without anything written on them for €3.00 and a pair of loafers for €25.
It was good to see them again. They had been delayed in Villagarcia while awaiting delivery of some custom fittings and had sailed directly from Villagarcia to Viana do Castelo.
They were sailing in a few hours but we had time for a quick coffee and a visit to a hardware store to fop up on gas. Gerry ran into the gas fittings compatibility problem. His boat is fitted with Calor fittings and bottles but the store only had Camping Gaz. The bottles and plumbing are not compatible but Gerry bought two bottles and would sort the plumbing out later.
Gerry & Isolde
"Northern Sky" on her way south.
My gas levels were quite low and I took the chance to aquire two full bottles (cost €9 per 4.3 kg bottle). I had replaced one in la Coruna but in the bustle of a busy shop I had been supplied with a bottle with only marginally more gas than my empty one. Our consumption of gas on Kiriwina is quite low and I had forgotten how heavy a full bottle is. A set of spring scales are now on the shopping list to verify future purchases.
Vina do Castelo is a very pretty little town. It is very obvious that we are in a different country. In Spain the modern built envirionment was often a bit of a mess with little sympathy shown to heritage buildings. It seems different here. The older town is largely intact and newer buildings are generally sympathetic. Their use of creative tiling is impressive.
Leaving the marina one walks into town though a canopied garden paralleling the river.
Buildings in the old quarter are mostly low rise and traffic flow is restricted and unobtrussive.
I visited the friday market and, unusually, bought a few things. Beach towels the size of a small field for €7.50, cotton t-shirts without anything written on them for €3.00 and a pair of loafers for €25.
Baiona to Viana do Castelo
21/06/07 15:16 Filed in: Portugal
An early start saw us clear Baiona marina at 08:30. The wind was westerly F3 and we motored into it until 09:30, when clear of the shoals off Cabo Silleiro, we could turn southwards and start sailing.
The wind started to increase and I put one reef in the main at 17 knots. Thereafter it slowly weakened and backed to the NW. By 13:30 boat speed was less than 2 knots and wind speed was around 6-7 knots. I started the engine and we motorsailed the rest of the way arriving off Viana de Castelo at 17:00.
There is a church dating from around 1906 overlooking the town and as we motored up the river I noticed a lovely looking ship which looked as though it was built during the 1950's.
Approaches to Viana do Castelo
Ship with Church in the background looking north from river approach.
As we aproached the marina entrance at 17:30 a pedestrian foorbridge blocking the entrance began to swing open and as we entered we were directed to our berth and helped with mooring by the marina staff.
We were all fast by 17:45. Marina Cost €15.40 daily plus €1.25 for showers. Day's run 32 miles.
The wind started to increase and I put one reef in the main at 17 knots. Thereafter it slowly weakened and backed to the NW. By 13:30 boat speed was less than 2 knots and wind speed was around 6-7 knots. I started the engine and we motorsailed the rest of the way arriving off Viana de Castelo at 17:00.
There is a church dating from around 1906 overlooking the town and as we motored up the river I noticed a lovely looking ship which looked as though it was built during the 1950's.
Approaches to Viana do Castelo
Ship with Church in the background looking north from river approach.
As we aproached the marina entrance at 17:30 a pedestrian foorbridge blocking the entrance began to swing open and as we entered we were directed to our berth and helped with mooring by the marina staff.
We were all fast by 17:45. Marina Cost €15.40 daily plus €1.25 for showers. Day's run 32 miles.
Back to Baiona
20/06/07 12:54 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
The weather is still from the SW but is forecast veer to the north tomorrow.
It's about 10 miles round to Baiona and I decided to position Kiriwina there and hope the forecast is accurate. This has the added advantage of knocking 25% off the distance to Viana do Castelo, our first stop in Portugal.
There was no wind at all in the morning and very little by the time we left Vigo at 11:00. Once we were out in to the Ria proper it slowly increased to SW F4. Bang on the nose but once we turned to port towards Baiona we were able to have a nice sail for 45 minutes right up to the Baiona Deportiva marina where we moored at 15:00.
It's about 10 miles round to Baiona and I decided to position Kiriwina there and hope the forecast is accurate. This has the added advantage of knocking 25% off the distance to Viana do Castelo, our first stop in Portugal.
There was no wind at all in the morning and very little by the time we left Vigo at 11:00. Once we were out in to the Ria proper it slowly increased to SW F4. Bang on the nose but once we turned to port towards Baiona we were able to have a nice sail for 45 minutes right up to the Baiona Deportiva marina where we moored at 15:00.
To Cangas and Parque de Castro
18/06/07 16:21 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
The wind this morning was still quite strong from the SW but it was not raining. Looks like the wind will veer to the north on Wednesday.
I decided to catch a ferry across the Ria to Cangas.
Two large liners came in overnight. Princess Cruises "Sea Princess" and Holland America's "Veendam".
The trip across to Cangas was quite bouncy and the little ferry rolled noticeably as she came beam on to the seas. It was a good SW F6.
Cangas is a pretty little town with an attractive waterfront and a large beach nearby. The maze of narrow streets behind the waterfront is largely unspoiled with most of the unsympathetic buildings behind the old town.
A lovely little chapel on the waterfront promenade in Cangas.
Back in Vigo I visited the Parque de Castro. This straddles the highest point in Vigo and is well worth the steep climb to get there. The views over the Ria were stunning. There is/was a castle on top and quite how and English battle fleet could sneak past up the Ria to Redondela is beyond me. Perhaps there was no artillery in the castle.
Climbing up to the park.
View over the docks up the Ria to Redondela.
Paque de Castro circles the hilltop with Castello de Castro at the summit.
View across the Ria to Cangas.
Islas de Cies in the distance at the mouth of Ria de Vigo.
I've no idea what this is about but I liked it.
Parque de Castro.Not often that I get to look down on a tall palm.
I decided to catch a ferry across the Ria to Cangas.
Two large liners came in overnight. Princess Cruises "Sea Princess" and Holland America's "Veendam".
The trip across to Cangas was quite bouncy and the little ferry rolled noticeably as she came beam on to the seas. It was a good SW F6.
Cangas is a pretty little town with an attractive waterfront and a large beach nearby. The maze of narrow streets behind the waterfront is largely unspoiled with most of the unsympathetic buildings behind the old town.
A lovely little chapel on the waterfront promenade in Cangas.
Back in Vigo I visited the Parque de Castro. This straddles the highest point in Vigo and is well worth the steep climb to get there. The views over the Ria were stunning. There is/was a castle on top and quite how and English battle fleet could sneak past up the Ria to Redondela is beyond me. Perhaps there was no artillery in the castle.
Climbing up to the park.
View over the docks up the Ria to Redondela.
Paque de Castro circles the hilltop with Castello de Castro at the summit.
View across the Ria to Cangas.
Islas de Cies in the distance at the mouth of Ria de Vigo.
I've no idea what this is about but I liked it.
Parque de Castro.Not often that I get to look down on a tall palm.
Unseasonable Weather in Vigo
17/06/07 16:06 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
The weather worsened today. Heavy rain showers and still strong SW winds. Looks like this will continue until midweek
A Tamara de Lempicka exhibition is on at the Fundacion CaixaGalicia in Vigo. It's free and very good with a guided tour, also free, once per day. It has not got some of her major works but there is a good selection including very early pieces and work from her time in America.
It closes on 15th July and is well worth a visit.
Today is the last day of the Spanish football season. Real Madrid and FC Barcelona are equal on points but Madrid have scored more goals. If they win today they will be champions.
I watched the Madrid game in the "Australian" bar which was pretty full with allegiances about 50/50 Madrid/Barcelona. Until midway through the second half Madrid were behind and Barcelona were romping home. Then Madrid scored three times and were champions. I would have preferred Barcelona but it's only a game. The local team Celta Vigo were relegated.
A Tamara de Lempicka exhibition is on at the Fundacion CaixaGalicia in Vigo. It's free and very good with a guided tour, also free, once per day. It has not got some of her major works but there is a good selection including very early pieces and work from her time in America.
It closes on 15th July and is well worth a visit.
Today is the last day of the Spanish football season. Real Madrid and FC Barcelona are equal on points but Madrid have scored more goals. If they win today they will be champions.
I watched the Madrid game in the "Australian" bar which was pretty full with allegiances about 50/50 Madrid/Barcelona. Until midway through the second half Madrid were behind and Barcelona were romping home. Then Madrid scored three times and were champions. I would have preferred Barcelona but it's only a game. The local team Celta Vigo were relegated.
Vigo old town.
16/06/07 15:01 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
An unexpected and pleasant surprise. My teacher from la Coruña, Lis, came down for a visit. She was at university in Vigo and had said it was not her favourite city but as we walked around and I pointed out bits I liked she kept repeating "that wasn't there last time I was here".
I like Vigo a lot. The local council have spent a lot of money on the city centre and waterfont and it shows. Cars are now excluded or take second place to people on many streets.
We had lunch at the club Nautico and then she took me on a tour of the old town.
Thanks Lis.
The old town is very old in parts and is full of contrasts. It is a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets. Many on steep hills. Some buildings have been beautifully restored and others are complete wrecks with no roof. Around the edges much new construction has been unsympathetic but it has rarely intruded into the old town proper. Many buildings are undergoing restoration but I suspect that it will take a long time to complete the process.
Restored buildings in very narrow cobbled street.
A very steep street.This one is stone paved.
A wider more commercial street. Wrought iron balconies and fixtures are common.
Turn around 180 deg and these two buildings with beautiful balconies are boarded up wrecks.
What's the time?
Restoration underway.
Restoration more or less complete.
Tall narrow restored building.
This building was gutted completely. Only the exterior shell has been retained.
More wrought iron.
Another steep street. This one paved with slate and edged with stone.
View from the upper old town looking out over the docks and Ria Vigo.
I like Vigo a lot. The local council have spent a lot of money on the city centre and waterfont and it shows. Cars are now excluded or take second place to people on many streets.
We had lunch at the club Nautico and then she took me on a tour of the old town.
Thanks Lis.
The old town is very old in parts and is full of contrasts. It is a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets. Many on steep hills. Some buildings have been beautifully restored and others are complete wrecks with no roof. Around the edges much new construction has been unsympathetic but it has rarely intruded into the old town proper. Many buildings are undergoing restoration but I suspect that it will take a long time to complete the process.
Restored buildings in very narrow cobbled street.
A very steep street.This one is stone paved.
A wider more commercial street. Wrought iron balconies and fixtures are common.
Turn around 180 deg and these two buildings with beautiful balconies are boarded up wrecks.
What's the time?
Restoration underway.
Restoration more or less complete.
Tall narrow restored building.
This building was gutted completely. Only the exterior shell has been retained.
More wrought iron.
Another steep street. This one paved with slate and edged with stone.
View from the upper old town looking out over the docks and Ria Vigo.
To the Islas Cies
15/06/07 15:07 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
As we were unable to anchor off the Islands the other day I decided to take a fast catamaran along with about 200 other day trippers.
The Islas Cies comprise three islands. Isla de Norte, Isla de Media and Isla de Sur the latter being a bird sanctuary where visits are not permitted. Islas de Norte and de Media are connected by an artificial causeway and a strip of beach with a lagoon in between.
The trip from Vigo to the somewhat rundown mole on Isla de Media takes about an hour. I was sitting near the stern and as we approached the quay the captain started sounding the horn repeatedly and stopped. From the stern I could not see why. A few minutes later as the catamaran crept alongside the problem was revealed.
A little French yacht had anchored very close to the mole, restricting the catamaran's approach, and the crew were ashore. My pilot book comments "Avoid anchoring too close to the mole, which is in constant use by ferries"
The black pole marks a very large rock.
The catamaran has berthed and its wake has swung the yacht around.
I found the incident rather funny. There was plenty of room nearby and it was such a silly place to anchor. Two hours later the yacht had moved.
There are two lighthouses on the south west corner of Isla de Media and the first two of four designated walking tracks lead to them. There were Herring Gulls all round the coast where they nest and the eggs were beginning to hatch. The gulls were generally tame but made a lot of noise if their nests were approached. This was often unavoidable as some nests were within inches of the path. If one went really close they took to the air and commenced shallow dive bombing runs.
Herring Gull
Bilingual Keep Off signs on the slope below the main lighthouse.
Gull with 2 Eggs and a Chick near the lower lighthouse
Lower lighthouse with the Ria and Vigo in the distance.
Gull Chick
Isla de Sur with Baiona beyond
Isla de Norte and the causeway to Isla de Media.
The Islands are similar to those further north in that they have a steep and dangerous west coast and a more gentle east coast with attractive beaches.
Looking south to the Isla Cies lighthouse.
Unusual rock formations. These holes in the rock are normally caused by the action of the sea moving small hard rocks against softer bedrock. These were at least 300ft above sea level.
The most aggressive bird on the island. This individual launched repeated low level attacks on self and scored one direct hit. A well padded hat was sufficient defence. I was on the path but never did see the nest.
A view through the gum trees to a lovely beath on Isla de Media. Australian gum trees are widespread in Galicia but are not liked by many locals. Due to drier conditions in their native Australia gums have very aggressive root systems and these crowd out competing species including trees native to Galicia.
The boat back.
The Islas Cies comprise three islands. Isla de Norte, Isla de Media and Isla de Sur the latter being a bird sanctuary where visits are not permitted. Islas de Norte and de Media are connected by an artificial causeway and a strip of beach with a lagoon in between.
The trip from Vigo to the somewhat rundown mole on Isla de Media takes about an hour. I was sitting near the stern and as we approached the quay the captain started sounding the horn repeatedly and stopped. From the stern I could not see why. A few minutes later as the catamaran crept alongside the problem was revealed.
A little French yacht had anchored very close to the mole, restricting the catamaran's approach, and the crew were ashore. My pilot book comments "Avoid anchoring too close to the mole, which is in constant use by ferries"
The black pole marks a very large rock.
The catamaran has berthed and its wake has swung the yacht around.
I found the incident rather funny. There was plenty of room nearby and it was such a silly place to anchor. Two hours later the yacht had moved.
There are two lighthouses on the south west corner of Isla de Media and the first two of four designated walking tracks lead to them. There were Herring Gulls all round the coast where they nest and the eggs were beginning to hatch. The gulls were generally tame but made a lot of noise if their nests were approached. This was often unavoidable as some nests were within inches of the path. If one went really close they took to the air and commenced shallow dive bombing runs.
Herring Gull
Bilingual Keep Off signs on the slope below the main lighthouse.
Gull with 2 Eggs and a Chick near the lower lighthouse
Lower lighthouse with the Ria and Vigo in the distance.
Gull Chick
Isla de Sur with Baiona beyond
Isla de Norte and the causeway to Isla de Media.
The Islands are similar to those further north in that they have a steep and dangerous west coast and a more gentle east coast with attractive beaches.
Looking south to the Isla Cies lighthouse.
Unusual rock formations. These holes in the rock are normally caused by the action of the sea moving small hard rocks against softer bedrock. These were at least 300ft above sea level.
The most aggressive bird on the island. This individual launched repeated low level attacks on self and scored one direct hit. A well padded hat was sufficient defence. I was on the path but never did see the nest.
A view through the gum trees to a lovely beath on Isla de Media. Australian gum trees are widespread in Galicia but are not liked by many locals. Due to drier conditions in their native Australia gums have very aggressive root systems and these crowd out competing species including trees native to Galicia.
The boat back.
Raining in Vigo
14/06/07 15:04 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
A view through the main cabin skylight this morning.
Miserable weather. Spent most of the day on board.
Miserable weather. Spent most of the day on board.
Back to Vigo
13/06/07 14:43 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
The forecast did not look good. Predominately southerly winds continuing until at least the weekend. Today winds were forecast to be SW 5-6.
It is also my birthday today and I do not particularly want to spend today or the next four days in Baiona. I decided to return to Vigo which I prefer to Baiona.
We left Baiona at 13:00 where the SW winds had be gusting to around 20 kn. As soon as we cleared the marina I turned the engine off and deployed the yankee. When we cleared Baiona breakwater and headed for Canal da Porta the wind began to pick up and as we approched the Canal entrance it was gusting SW to 30 knots. Normally I would put the engine on standby to transit Canal da Porta but this time we flew through it touching 6 knots at times and with barely a pause as we passed under the lee of Isla Estrella.
Once out into the Ria proper it was clear I had too much sail up as the wind was now gusting to 35knots (F8). We were flying along at over 6+ knots but with lots of weather helm and too much heel. I reduced the yankee to one third and we rushed up Ria Vigo at speeds often in excess of 5 knots with frequent wind gusts to 35kn.
Fortunately it had eased when we arrived at RCN Vigo at 15:30. They were pretty full but allocated us a berth between two 40ft+ boats. Little Kiriwina at 28ft was suspended between the two with a mooring configuration which required me to climb on to an adjacent boat and then onto the pontoon.
Shortly after we were settled in the wind picked up again and it began to rain heavily but I was glad to be back.
It is also my birthday today and I do not particularly want to spend today or the next four days in Baiona. I decided to return to Vigo which I prefer to Baiona.
We left Baiona at 13:00 where the SW winds had be gusting to around 20 kn. As soon as we cleared the marina I turned the engine off and deployed the yankee. When we cleared Baiona breakwater and headed for Canal da Porta the wind began to pick up and as we approched the Canal entrance it was gusting SW to 30 knots. Normally I would put the engine on standby to transit Canal da Porta but this time we flew through it touching 6 knots at times and with barely a pause as we passed under the lee of Isla Estrella.
Once out into the Ria proper it was clear I had too much sail up as the wind was now gusting to 35knots (F8). We were flying along at over 6+ knots but with lots of weather helm and too much heel. I reduced the yankee to one third and we rushed up Ria Vigo at speeds often in excess of 5 knots with frequent wind gusts to 35kn.
Fortunately it had eased when we arrived at RCN Vigo at 15:30. They were pretty full but allocated us a berth between two 40ft+ boats. Little Kiriwina at 28ft was suspended between the two with a mooring configuration which required me to climb on to an adjacent boat and then onto the pontoon.
Shortly after we were settled in the wind picked up again and it began to rain heavily but I was glad to be back.
Baiona - Islas Cies - Baiona
11/06/07 17:37 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
The weather is still predominately from the south which is unhelpful if one wishes to go south. The low pressure responsible for this state of affairs is slow moving and conditions could persist until the weekend.
I decided to have a daysail to the Islas Cies. We left at 13:00 with the wind more or less SE F3. After clearing the Canal da Porta and entering Ria Vigo we were exposed to what had now become a SW wind gusting to F5. It was a brisk sail up to Playa de Rodas where we arrived at 15:00. It was too windy to anchor for a run ashore and with no alternative anchorage available we reversed course to return to Baiona.
The lighthouse on Punta Canabal at the southern end of Isla de Medio
Playa de Rodas which links Isla de Monteagudo to Isla de Medio. Although the water looks quite calm due to the proximity of the island the wind was quite strong. Note the angle of the swim buoy.
On the way back we could not make the entrance to Canal da Porta on one tack. On the contrary tack performance was underwhelming with only the yankee up and being a bit lazy I put the engine on for a few minutes to point higher and gain the Canal without a second tack. Once clear of the Canal the wind was SW gusting over 20 knots and we flew down to the marina arriving at 17:45.
I decided to have a daysail to the Islas Cies. We left at 13:00 with the wind more or less SE F3. After clearing the Canal da Porta and entering Ria Vigo we were exposed to what had now become a SW wind gusting to F5. It was a brisk sail up to Playa de Rodas where we arrived at 15:00. It was too windy to anchor for a run ashore and with no alternative anchorage available we reversed course to return to Baiona.
The lighthouse on Punta Canabal at the southern end of Isla de Medio
Playa de Rodas which links Isla de Monteagudo to Isla de Medio. Although the water looks quite calm due to the proximity of the island the wind was quite strong. Note the angle of the swim buoy.
On the way back we could not make the entrance to Canal da Porta on one tack. On the contrary tack performance was underwhelming with only the yankee up and being a bit lazy I put the engine on for a few minutes to point higher and gain the Canal without a second tack. Once clear of the Canal the wind was SW gusting over 20 knots and we flew down to the marina arriving at 17:45.
Vigo to Baiona via Isla San Simon
08/06/07 15:44 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
A busy day today. We left RCN Vigo at 11:30 and proceeded up the Ria towards Isla San Simon.
On the way we passed under the impressive Rande bridge.
Isla San Simon is a lovely little island and has quite a history. It has housed a monastery, which was sacked by English pirates, and a leper colony. In 1936 it was used to house political prisoners. In this capacity it was featured in the film of the Manuel Rivas novel El lapiz del Carpintero. Manuel is a well known Galician writer from La Coruña and had a little cameo in the film. From 1955 to 1963 it was used as an orphanage for the children of seafarers.
Its current use is not apparent and no entry signs are posted at all landing points although I think there are tourist day trip boats in the summer.
Hola Lis.
As we approached Isla San Simon the wind started to increase and by the time we anchored it was gusting SW 20knots. I deployed Kiriwini and went for a trip around the island.
We left Isla San Simon at 14:30 and had a relaxed motor into a dying wind all the way down the Ria de Vigo to Baiona where we moored at Puerto Deportiva Baiona at 18:30.
On the way we passed under the impressive Rande bridge.
Isla San Simon is a lovely little island and has quite a history. It has housed a monastery, which was sacked by English pirates, and a leper colony. In 1936 it was used to house political prisoners. In this capacity it was featured in the film of the Manuel Rivas novel El lapiz del Carpintero. Manuel is a well known Galician writer from La Coruña and had a little cameo in the film. From 1955 to 1963 it was used as an orphanage for the children of seafarers.
Its current use is not apparent and no entry signs are posted at all landing points although I think there are tourist day trip boats in the summer.
Hola Lis.
As we approached Isla San Simon the wind started to increase and by the time we anchored it was gusting SW 20knots. I deployed Kiriwini and went for a trip around the island.
We left Isla San Simon at 14:30 and had a relaxed motor into a dying wind all the way down the Ria de Vigo to Baiona where we moored at Puerto Deportiva Baiona at 18:30.
Isla San Simon - Jules Verne - Captain Nemo
08/06/07 15:35 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
On the north side of Isla San Simon some 200 metres from the shore I came across a series of wonderful sculptures inspired by Jules Verne and his character Captain Nemo. Quite what connection the "20,000 Leagues Under the Sea" has with Isla San Simon is not clear although there is a connection with Vigo.
Divers from the Nautilus recovered sunken treasure from Vigo bay. Looking at the chart it is not clear where Vigo bay is. There is Enseada de Vigo (Enseada translates as cove) where Vigo is (depth 10-20 metres) but no Bahia de Vigo. The story behind the sunken treasure has some substance but no treasure has ever been found. Depths in parts of the Ria de Vigo are over 40 metres.
Statue of Captain Nemo and two divers. The divers are gradually submerged by the rising tide. I was there on a falling tide. One diver was exposed and the other just submerged.
Captain Nemo
Diver Under
Diver Under
Diver Exposed
Perhaps the sculptures just relate to the mention of Vigo. Here is the relevant chapter.
Jules Verne 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea
Chapter 8 - Vigo Bay
The Atlantic! a vast sheet of water whose superficial area covers twenty-five millions of square miles, the length of which is nine thousand miles, with a mean breadth of two thousand seven hundred-- an ocean whose parallel winding shores embrace an immense circumference, watered by the largest rivers of the world, the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi, the Amazon, the Plata, the Orinoco, the Niger, the Senegal, the Elbe, the Loire, and the Rhine, which carry water from the most civilised, as well as from the most savage, countries! Magnificent field of water, incessantly ploughed by vessels of every nation, sheltered by the flags of every nation, and which terminates in those two terrible points so dreaded by mariners, Cape Horn and the Cape of Tempests.
The Nautilus was piercing the water with its sharp spur, after having accomplished nearly ten thousand leagues in three months and a half, a distance greater than the great circle of the earth. Where were we going now, and what was reserved for the future? The Nautilus, leaving the Straits of Gibraltar, had gone far out. It returned to the surface of the waves, and our daily walks on the platform were restored to us.
I mounted at once, accompanied by Ned Land and Conseil. At a distance of about twelve miles, Cape St. Vincent was dimly to be seen, forming the south-western point of the Spanish peninsula. A strong southerly gale was blowing. The sea was swollen and billowy; it made the Nautilus rock violently. It was almost impossible to keep one's foot on the platform, which the heavy rolls of the sea beat over every instant. So we descended after inhaling some mouthfuls of fresh air.
I returned to my room, Conseil to his cabin; but the Canadian, with a preoccupied air, followed me. Our rapid passage across the Mediterranean had not allowed him to put his project into execution, and he could not help showing his disappointment. When the door of my room was shut, he sat down and looked at me silently.
"Friend Ned," said I, "I understand you; but you cannot reproach yourself. To have attempted to leave the Nautilus under the circumstances would have been folly."
Ned Land did not answer; his compressed lips and frowning brow showed with him the violent possession this fixed idea had taken of his mind.
"Let us see," I continued; "we need not despair yet. We are going up the coast of Portugal again; France and England are not far off, where we can easily find refuge. Now if the Nautilus, on leaving the Straits of Gibraltar, had gone to the south, if it had carried us towards regions where there were no continents, I should share your uneasiness. But we know now that Captain Nemo does not fly from civilised seas, and in some days I think you can act with security."
Ned Land still looked at me fixedly; at length his fixed lips parted, and he said, "It is for to-night."
I drew myself up suddenly. I was, I admit, little prepared for this communication. I wanted to answer the Canadian, but words would not come.
"We agreed to wait for an opportunity," continued Ned Land, "and the opportunity has arrived. This night we shall be but a few miles from the Spanish coast. It is cloudy. The wind blows freely. I have your word, M. Aronnax, and I rely upon you."
As I was silent, the Canadian approached me.
"To-night, at nine o'clock," said he. "I have warned Conseil. At that moment Captain Nemo will be shut up in his room, probably in bed. Neither the engineers nor the ship's crew can see us. Conseil and I will gain the central staircase, and you, M. Aronnax, will remain in the library, two steps from us, waiting my signal. The oars, the mast, and the sail are in the canoe. I have even succeeded in getting some provisions. I have procured an English wrench, to unfasten the bolts which attach it to the shell of the Nautilus. So all is ready, till to-night."
"The sea is bad."
"That I allow," replied the Canadian; "but we must risk that. Liberty is worth paying for; besides, the boat is strong, and a few miles with a fair wind to carry us is no great thing. Who knows but by to-morrow we may be a hundred leagues away? Let circumstances only favour us, and by ten or eleven o'clock we shall have landed on some spot of terra firma, alive or dead. But adieu now till to-night."
With these words the Canadian withdrew, leaving me almost dumb. I had imagined that, the chance gone, I should have time to reflect and discuss the matter. My obstinate companion had given me no time; and, after all, what could I have said to him? Ned Land was perfectly right. There was almost the opportunity to profit by. Could I retract my word, and take upon myself the responsibility of compromising the future of my companions? To-morrow Captain Nemo might take us far from all land.
At that moment a rather loud hissing noise told me that the reservoirs were filling, and that the Nautilus was sinking under the waves of the Atlantic.
A sad day I passed, between the desire of regaining my liberty of action and of abandoning the wonderful Nautilus, and leaving my submarine studies incomplete.
What dreadful hours I passed thus! Sometimes seeing myself and companions safely landed, sometimes wishing, in spite of my reason, that some unforeseen circumstance, would prevent the realisation of Ned Land's project.
Twice I went to the saloon. I wished to consult the compass. I wished to see if the direction the Nautilus was taking was bringing us nearer or taking us farther from the coast. But no; the Nautilus kept in Portuguese waters.
I must therefore take my part and prepare for flight. My luggage was not heavy; my notes, nothing more.
As to Captain Nemo, I asked myself what he would think of our escape; what trouble, what wrong it might cause him and what he might do in case of its discovery or failure. Certainly I had no cause to complain of him; on the contrary, never was hospitality freer than his. In leaving him I could not be taxed with ingratitude. No oath bound us to him. It was on the strength of circumstances he relied, and not upon our word, to fix us for ever.
I had not seen the Captain since our visit to the Island of Santorin. Would chance bring me to his presence before our departure? I wished it, and I feared it at the same time. I listened if I could hear him walking the room contiguous to mine. No sound reached my ear. I felt an unbearable uneasiness. This day of waiting seemed eternal. Hours struck too slowly to keep pace with my impatience.
My dinner was served in my room as usual. I ate but little; I was too preoccupied. I left the table at seven o'clock. A hundred and twenty minutes (I counted them) still separated me from the moment in which I was to join Ned Land. My agitation redoubled. My pulse beat violently. I could not remain quiet. I went and came, hoping to calm my troubled spirit by constant movement. The idea of failure in our bold enterprise was the least painful of my anxieties; but the thought of seeing our project discovered before leaving the Nautilus, of being brought before Captain Nemo, irritated, or (what was worse) saddened, at my desertion, made my heart beat.
I wanted to see the saloon for the last time. I descended the stairs and arrived in the museum, where I had passed so many useful and agreeable hours. I looked at all its riches, all its treasures, like a man on the eve of an eternal exile, who was leaving never to return.
These wonders of Nature, these masterpieces of art, amongst which for so many days my life had been concentrated, I was going to abandon them for ever! I should like to have taken a last look through the windows of the saloon into the waters of the Atlantic: but the panels were hermetically closed, and a cloak of steel separated me from that ocean which I had not yet explored.
In passing through the saloon, I came near the door let into the angle which opened into the Captain's room. To my great surprise, this door was ajar. I drew back involuntarily. If Captain Nemo should be in his room, he could see me. But, hearing no sound, I drew nearer. The room was deserted. I pushed open the door and took some steps forward. Still the same monklike severity of aspect.
Suddenly the clock struck eight. The first beat of the hammer on the bell awoke me from my dreams. I trembled as if an invisible eye had plunged into my most secret thoughts, and I hurried from the room.
There my eye fell upon the compass. Our course was still north. The log indicated moderate speed, the manometer a depth of about sixty feet.
I returned to my room, clothed myself warmly--sea boots, an otterskin cap, a great coat of byssus, lined with sealskin; I was ready, I was waiting. The vibration of the screw alone broke the deep silence which reigned on board. I listened attentively. Would no loud voice suddenly inform me that Ned Land had been surprised in his projected flight. A mortal dread hung over me, and I vainly tried to regain my accustomed coolness.
At a few minutes to nine, I put my ear to the Captain's door. No noise. I left my room and returned to the saloon, which was half in obscurity, but deserted.
I opened the door communicating with the library. The same insufficient light, the same solitude. I placed myself near the door leading to the central staircase, and there waited for Ned Land's signal.
At that moment the trembling of the screw sensibly diminished, then it stopped entirely. The silence was now only disturbed by the beatings of my own heart. Suddenly a slight shock was felt; and I knew that the Nautilus had stopped at the bottom of the ocean. My uneasiness increased. The Canadian's signal did not come. I felt inclined to join Ned Land and beg of him to put off his attempt. I felt that we were not sailing under our usual conditions.
At this moment the door of the large saloon opened, and Captain Nemo appeared. He saw me, and without further preamble began in an amiable tone of voice:
"Ah, sir! I have been looking for you. Do you know the history of Spain?"
Now, one might know the history of one's own country by heart; but in the condition I was at the time, with troubled mind and head quite lost, I could not have said a word of it.
"Well," continued Captain Nemo, "you heard my question! Do you know the history of Spain?"
"Very slightly," I answered.
"Well, here are learned men having to learn," said the Captain. "Come, sit down, and I will tell you a curious episode in this history. Sir, listen well," said he; "this history will interest you on one side, for it will answer a question which doubtless you have not been able to solve."
"I listen, Captain," said I, not knowing what my interlocutor was driving at, and asking myself if this incident was bearing on our projected flight.
"Sir, if you have no objection, we will go back to 1702. You cannot be ignorant that your king, Louis XIV, thinking that the gesture of a potentate was sufficient to bring the Pyrenees under his yoke, had imposed the Duke of Anjou, his grandson, on the Spaniards. This prince reigned more or less badly under the name of Philip V, and had a strong party against him abroad. Indeed, the preceding year, the royal houses of Holland, Austria, and England had concluded a treaty of alliance at the Hague, with the intention of plucking the crown of Spain from the head of Philip V, and placing it on that of an archduke to whom they prematurely gave the title of Charles III.
"Spain must resist this coalition; but she was almost entirely unprovided with either soldiers or sailors. However, money would not fail them, provided that their galleons, laden with gold and silver from America, once entered their ports. And about the end of 1702 they expected a rich convoy which France was escorting with a fleet of twenty-three vessels, commanded by Admiral Chateau-Renaud, for the ships of the coalition were already beating the Atlantic. This convoy was to go to Cadiz, but the Admiral, hearing that an English fleet was cruising in those waters, resolved to make for a French port.
"The Spanish commanders of the convoy objected to this decision. They wanted to be taken to a Spanish port, and, if not to Cadiz, into Vigo Bay, situated on the northwest coast of Spain, and which was not blocked.
"Admiral Chateau-Renaud had the rashness to obey this injunction, and the galleons entered Vigo Bay.
"Unfortunately, it formed an open road which could not be defended in any way. They must therefore hasten to unload the galleons before the arrival of the combined fleet; and time would not have failed them had not a miserable question of rivalry suddenly arisen.
"You are following the chain of events?" asked Captain Nemo.
"Perfectly," said I, not knowing the end proposed by this historical lesson.
"I will continue. This is what passed. The merchants of Cadiz had a privilege by which they had the right of receiving all merchandise coming from the West Indies. Now, to disembark these ingots at the port of Vigo was depriving them of their rights. They complained at Madrid, and obtained the consent of the weak-minded Philip that the convoy, without discharging its cargo, should remain sequestered in the roads of Vigo until the enemy had disappeared.
"But whilst coming to this decision, on the 22nd of October,
1702, the English vessels arrived in Vigo Bay, when Admiral Chateau-Renaud, in spite of inferior forces, fought bravely. But, seeing that the treasure must fall into the enemy's hands, he burnt and scuttled every galleon, which went to the bottom with their immense riches."
Captain Nemo stopped. I admit I could not see yet why this history should interest me.
"Well?" I asked.
"Well, M. Aronnax," replied Captain Nemo, "we are in that Vigo Bay; and it rests with yourself whether you will penetrate its mysteries."
The Captain rose, telling me to follow him. I had had time to recover. I obeyed. The saloon was dark, but through the transparent glass the waves were sparkling. I looked.
For half a mile around the Nautilus, the waters seemed bathed in electric light. The sandy bottom was clean and bright. Some of the ship's crew in their diving-dresses were clearing away half-rotten barrels and empty cases from the midst of the blackened wrecks. From these cases and from these barrels escaped ingots of gold and silver, cascades of piastres and jewels. The sand was heaped up with them. Laden with their precious booty, the men returned to the Nautilus, disposed of their burden, and went back to this inexhaustible fishery of gold and silver.
I understood now. This was the scene of the battle of the 22nd of October, 1702. Here on this very spot the galleons laden for the Spanish Government had sunk. Here Captain Nemo came, according to his wants, to pack up those millions with which he burdened the Nautilus. It was for him and him alone America had given up her precious metals. He was heir direct, without anyone to share, in those treasures torn from the Incas and from the conquered of Ferdinand Cortez.
"Did you know, sir," he asked, smiling, "that the sea contained such riches?"
"I knew," I answered, "that they value money held in suspension in these waters at two millions."
"Doubtless; but to extract this money the expense would be greater than the profit. Here, on the contrary, I have but to pick up what man has lost--and not only in Vigo Bay, but in a thousand other ports where shipwrecks have happened, and which are marked on my submarine map. Can you understand now the source of the millions I am worth?"
"I understand, Captain. But allow me to tell you that in exploring Vigo Bay you have only been beforehand with a rival society."
"And which?"
"A society which has received from the Spanish Government the privilege of seeking those buried galleons. The shareholders are led on by the allurement of an enormous bounty, for they value these rich shipwrecks at five hundred millions."
"Five hundred millions they were," answered Captain Nemo, "but they are so no longer."
"Just so," said I; "and a warning to those shareholders would be an act of charity. But who knows if it would be well received? What gamblers usually regret above all is less the loss of their money than of their foolish hopes. After all, I pity them less than the thousands of unfortunates to whom so much riches well-distributed would have been profitable, whilst for them they will be for ever barren."
I had no sooner expressed this regret than I felt that it must have wounded Captain Nemo.
"Barren!" he exclaimed, with animation. "Do you think then, sir, that these riches are lost because I gather them? Is it for myself alone, according to your idea, that I take the trouble to collect these treasures? Who told you that I did not make a good use of it? Do you think I am ignorant that there are suffering beings and oppressed races on this earth, miserable creatures to console, victims to avenge? Do you not understand?"
Captain Nemo stopped at these last words, regretting perhaps that he had spoken so much. But I had guessed that, whatever the motive which had forced him to seek independence under the sea, it had left him still a man, that his heart still beat for the sufferings of humanity, and that his immense charity was for oppressed races as well as individuals. And I then understood for whom those millions were destined which were forwarded by Captain Nemo when the Nautilus was cruising in the waters of Crete.
Divers from the Nautilus recovered sunken treasure from Vigo bay. Looking at the chart it is not clear where Vigo bay is. There is Enseada de Vigo (Enseada translates as cove) where Vigo is (depth 10-20 metres) but no Bahia de Vigo. The story behind the sunken treasure has some substance but no treasure has ever been found. Depths in parts of the Ria de Vigo are over 40 metres.
Statue of Captain Nemo and two divers. The divers are gradually submerged by the rising tide. I was there on a falling tide. One diver was exposed and the other just submerged.
Captain Nemo
Diver Under
Diver Under
Diver Exposed
Perhaps the sculptures just relate to the mention of Vigo. Here is the relevant chapter.
Jules Verne 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea
Chapter 8 - Vigo Bay
The Atlantic! a vast sheet of water whose superficial area covers twenty-five millions of square miles, the length of which is nine thousand miles, with a mean breadth of two thousand seven hundred-- an ocean whose parallel winding shores embrace an immense circumference, watered by the largest rivers of the world, the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi, the Amazon, the Plata, the Orinoco, the Niger, the Senegal, the Elbe, the Loire, and the Rhine, which carry water from the most civilised, as well as from the most savage, countries! Magnificent field of water, incessantly ploughed by vessels of every nation, sheltered by the flags of every nation, and which terminates in those two terrible points so dreaded by mariners, Cape Horn and the Cape of Tempests.
The Nautilus was piercing the water with its sharp spur, after having accomplished nearly ten thousand leagues in three months and a half, a distance greater than the great circle of the earth. Where were we going now, and what was reserved for the future? The Nautilus, leaving the Straits of Gibraltar, had gone far out. It returned to the surface of the waves, and our daily walks on the platform were restored to us.
I mounted at once, accompanied by Ned Land and Conseil. At a distance of about twelve miles, Cape St. Vincent was dimly to be seen, forming the south-western point of the Spanish peninsula. A strong southerly gale was blowing. The sea was swollen and billowy; it made the Nautilus rock violently. It was almost impossible to keep one's foot on the platform, which the heavy rolls of the sea beat over every instant. So we descended after inhaling some mouthfuls of fresh air.
I returned to my room, Conseil to his cabin; but the Canadian, with a preoccupied air, followed me. Our rapid passage across the Mediterranean had not allowed him to put his project into execution, and he could not help showing his disappointment. When the door of my room was shut, he sat down and looked at me silently.
"Friend Ned," said I, "I understand you; but you cannot reproach yourself. To have attempted to leave the Nautilus under the circumstances would have been folly."
Ned Land did not answer; his compressed lips and frowning brow showed with him the violent possession this fixed idea had taken of his mind.
"Let us see," I continued; "we need not despair yet. We are going up the coast of Portugal again; France and England are not far off, where we can easily find refuge. Now if the Nautilus, on leaving the Straits of Gibraltar, had gone to the south, if it had carried us towards regions where there were no continents, I should share your uneasiness. But we know now that Captain Nemo does not fly from civilised seas, and in some days I think you can act with security."
Ned Land still looked at me fixedly; at length his fixed lips parted, and he said, "It is for to-night."
I drew myself up suddenly. I was, I admit, little prepared for this communication. I wanted to answer the Canadian, but words would not come.
"We agreed to wait for an opportunity," continued Ned Land, "and the opportunity has arrived. This night we shall be but a few miles from the Spanish coast. It is cloudy. The wind blows freely. I have your word, M. Aronnax, and I rely upon you."
As I was silent, the Canadian approached me.
"To-night, at nine o'clock," said he. "I have warned Conseil. At that moment Captain Nemo will be shut up in his room, probably in bed. Neither the engineers nor the ship's crew can see us. Conseil and I will gain the central staircase, and you, M. Aronnax, will remain in the library, two steps from us, waiting my signal. The oars, the mast, and the sail are in the canoe. I have even succeeded in getting some provisions. I have procured an English wrench, to unfasten the bolts which attach it to the shell of the Nautilus. So all is ready, till to-night."
"The sea is bad."
"That I allow," replied the Canadian; "but we must risk that. Liberty is worth paying for; besides, the boat is strong, and a few miles with a fair wind to carry us is no great thing. Who knows but by to-morrow we may be a hundred leagues away? Let circumstances only favour us, and by ten or eleven o'clock we shall have landed on some spot of terra firma, alive or dead. But adieu now till to-night."
With these words the Canadian withdrew, leaving me almost dumb. I had imagined that, the chance gone, I should have time to reflect and discuss the matter. My obstinate companion had given me no time; and, after all, what could I have said to him? Ned Land was perfectly right. There was almost the opportunity to profit by. Could I retract my word, and take upon myself the responsibility of compromising the future of my companions? To-morrow Captain Nemo might take us far from all land.
At that moment a rather loud hissing noise told me that the reservoirs were filling, and that the Nautilus was sinking under the waves of the Atlantic.
A sad day I passed, between the desire of regaining my liberty of action and of abandoning the wonderful Nautilus, and leaving my submarine studies incomplete.
What dreadful hours I passed thus! Sometimes seeing myself and companions safely landed, sometimes wishing, in spite of my reason, that some unforeseen circumstance, would prevent the realisation of Ned Land's project.
Twice I went to the saloon. I wished to consult the compass. I wished to see if the direction the Nautilus was taking was bringing us nearer or taking us farther from the coast. But no; the Nautilus kept in Portuguese waters.
I must therefore take my part and prepare for flight. My luggage was not heavy; my notes, nothing more.
As to Captain Nemo, I asked myself what he would think of our escape; what trouble, what wrong it might cause him and what he might do in case of its discovery or failure. Certainly I had no cause to complain of him; on the contrary, never was hospitality freer than his. In leaving him I could not be taxed with ingratitude. No oath bound us to him. It was on the strength of circumstances he relied, and not upon our word, to fix us for ever.
I had not seen the Captain since our visit to the Island of Santorin. Would chance bring me to his presence before our departure? I wished it, and I feared it at the same time. I listened if I could hear him walking the room contiguous to mine. No sound reached my ear. I felt an unbearable uneasiness. This day of waiting seemed eternal. Hours struck too slowly to keep pace with my impatience.
My dinner was served in my room as usual. I ate but little; I was too preoccupied. I left the table at seven o'clock. A hundred and twenty minutes (I counted them) still separated me from the moment in which I was to join Ned Land. My agitation redoubled. My pulse beat violently. I could not remain quiet. I went and came, hoping to calm my troubled spirit by constant movement. The idea of failure in our bold enterprise was the least painful of my anxieties; but the thought of seeing our project discovered before leaving the Nautilus, of being brought before Captain Nemo, irritated, or (what was worse) saddened, at my desertion, made my heart beat.
I wanted to see the saloon for the last time. I descended the stairs and arrived in the museum, where I had passed so many useful and agreeable hours. I looked at all its riches, all its treasures, like a man on the eve of an eternal exile, who was leaving never to return.
These wonders of Nature, these masterpieces of art, amongst which for so many days my life had been concentrated, I was going to abandon them for ever! I should like to have taken a last look through the windows of the saloon into the waters of the Atlantic: but the panels were hermetically closed, and a cloak of steel separated me from that ocean which I had not yet explored.
In passing through the saloon, I came near the door let into the angle which opened into the Captain's room. To my great surprise, this door was ajar. I drew back involuntarily. If Captain Nemo should be in his room, he could see me. But, hearing no sound, I drew nearer. The room was deserted. I pushed open the door and took some steps forward. Still the same monklike severity of aspect.
Suddenly the clock struck eight. The first beat of the hammer on the bell awoke me from my dreams. I trembled as if an invisible eye had plunged into my most secret thoughts, and I hurried from the room.
There my eye fell upon the compass. Our course was still north. The log indicated moderate speed, the manometer a depth of about sixty feet.
I returned to my room, clothed myself warmly--sea boots, an otterskin cap, a great coat of byssus, lined with sealskin; I was ready, I was waiting. The vibration of the screw alone broke the deep silence which reigned on board. I listened attentively. Would no loud voice suddenly inform me that Ned Land had been surprised in his projected flight. A mortal dread hung over me, and I vainly tried to regain my accustomed coolness.
At a few minutes to nine, I put my ear to the Captain's door. No noise. I left my room and returned to the saloon, which was half in obscurity, but deserted.
I opened the door communicating with the library. The same insufficient light, the same solitude. I placed myself near the door leading to the central staircase, and there waited for Ned Land's signal.
At that moment the trembling of the screw sensibly diminished, then it stopped entirely. The silence was now only disturbed by the beatings of my own heart. Suddenly a slight shock was felt; and I knew that the Nautilus had stopped at the bottom of the ocean. My uneasiness increased. The Canadian's signal did not come. I felt inclined to join Ned Land and beg of him to put off his attempt. I felt that we were not sailing under our usual conditions.
At this moment the door of the large saloon opened, and Captain Nemo appeared. He saw me, and without further preamble began in an amiable tone of voice:
"Ah, sir! I have been looking for you. Do you know the history of Spain?"
Now, one might know the history of one's own country by heart; but in the condition I was at the time, with troubled mind and head quite lost, I could not have said a word of it.
"Well," continued Captain Nemo, "you heard my question! Do you know the history of Spain?"
"Very slightly," I answered.
"Well, here are learned men having to learn," said the Captain. "Come, sit down, and I will tell you a curious episode in this history. Sir, listen well," said he; "this history will interest you on one side, for it will answer a question which doubtless you have not been able to solve."
"I listen, Captain," said I, not knowing what my interlocutor was driving at, and asking myself if this incident was bearing on our projected flight.
"Sir, if you have no objection, we will go back to 1702. You cannot be ignorant that your king, Louis XIV, thinking that the gesture of a potentate was sufficient to bring the Pyrenees under his yoke, had imposed the Duke of Anjou, his grandson, on the Spaniards. This prince reigned more or less badly under the name of Philip V, and had a strong party against him abroad. Indeed, the preceding year, the royal houses of Holland, Austria, and England had concluded a treaty of alliance at the Hague, with the intention of plucking the crown of Spain from the head of Philip V, and placing it on that of an archduke to whom they prematurely gave the title of Charles III.
"Spain must resist this coalition; but she was almost entirely unprovided with either soldiers or sailors. However, money would not fail them, provided that their galleons, laden with gold and silver from America, once entered their ports. And about the end of 1702 they expected a rich convoy which France was escorting with a fleet of twenty-three vessels, commanded by Admiral Chateau-Renaud, for the ships of the coalition were already beating the Atlantic. This convoy was to go to Cadiz, but the Admiral, hearing that an English fleet was cruising in those waters, resolved to make for a French port.
"The Spanish commanders of the convoy objected to this decision. They wanted to be taken to a Spanish port, and, if not to Cadiz, into Vigo Bay, situated on the northwest coast of Spain, and which was not blocked.
"Admiral Chateau-Renaud had the rashness to obey this injunction, and the galleons entered Vigo Bay.
"Unfortunately, it formed an open road which could not be defended in any way. They must therefore hasten to unload the galleons before the arrival of the combined fleet; and time would not have failed them had not a miserable question of rivalry suddenly arisen.
"You are following the chain of events?" asked Captain Nemo.
"Perfectly," said I, not knowing the end proposed by this historical lesson.
"I will continue. This is what passed. The merchants of Cadiz had a privilege by which they had the right of receiving all merchandise coming from the West Indies. Now, to disembark these ingots at the port of Vigo was depriving them of their rights. They complained at Madrid, and obtained the consent of the weak-minded Philip that the convoy, without discharging its cargo, should remain sequestered in the roads of Vigo until the enemy had disappeared.
"But whilst coming to this decision, on the 22nd of October,
1702, the English vessels arrived in Vigo Bay, when Admiral Chateau-Renaud, in spite of inferior forces, fought bravely. But, seeing that the treasure must fall into the enemy's hands, he burnt and scuttled every galleon, which went to the bottom with their immense riches."
Captain Nemo stopped. I admit I could not see yet why this history should interest me.
"Well?" I asked.
"Well, M. Aronnax," replied Captain Nemo, "we are in that Vigo Bay; and it rests with yourself whether you will penetrate its mysteries."
The Captain rose, telling me to follow him. I had had time to recover. I obeyed. The saloon was dark, but through the transparent glass the waves were sparkling. I looked.
For half a mile around the Nautilus, the waters seemed bathed in electric light. The sandy bottom was clean and bright. Some of the ship's crew in their diving-dresses were clearing away half-rotten barrels and empty cases from the midst of the blackened wrecks. From these cases and from these barrels escaped ingots of gold and silver, cascades of piastres and jewels. The sand was heaped up with them. Laden with their precious booty, the men returned to the Nautilus, disposed of their burden, and went back to this inexhaustible fishery of gold and silver.
I understood now. This was the scene of the battle of the 22nd of October, 1702. Here on this very spot the galleons laden for the Spanish Government had sunk. Here Captain Nemo came, according to his wants, to pack up those millions with which he burdened the Nautilus. It was for him and him alone America had given up her precious metals. He was heir direct, without anyone to share, in those treasures torn from the Incas and from the conquered of Ferdinand Cortez.
"Did you know, sir," he asked, smiling, "that the sea contained such riches?"
"I knew," I answered, "that they value money held in suspension in these waters at two millions."
"Doubtless; but to extract this money the expense would be greater than the profit. Here, on the contrary, I have but to pick up what man has lost--and not only in Vigo Bay, but in a thousand other ports where shipwrecks have happened, and which are marked on my submarine map. Can you understand now the source of the millions I am worth?"
"I understand, Captain. But allow me to tell you that in exploring Vigo Bay you have only been beforehand with a rival society."
"And which?"
"A society which has received from the Spanish Government the privilege of seeking those buried galleons. The shareholders are led on by the allurement of an enormous bounty, for they value these rich shipwrecks at five hundred millions."
"Five hundred millions they were," answered Captain Nemo, "but they are so no longer."
"Just so," said I; "and a warning to those shareholders would be an act of charity. But who knows if it would be well received? What gamblers usually regret above all is less the loss of their money than of their foolish hopes. After all, I pity them less than the thousands of unfortunates to whom so much riches well-distributed would have been profitable, whilst for them they will be for ever barren."
I had no sooner expressed this regret than I felt that it must have wounded Captain Nemo.
"Barren!" he exclaimed, with animation. "Do you think then, sir, that these riches are lost because I gather them? Is it for myself alone, according to your idea, that I take the trouble to collect these treasures? Who told you that I did not make a good use of it? Do you think I am ignorant that there are suffering beings and oppressed races on this earth, miserable creatures to console, victims to avenge? Do you not understand?"
Captain Nemo stopped at these last words, regretting perhaps that he had spoken so much. But I had guessed that, whatever the motive which had forced him to seek independence under the sea, it had left him still a man, that his heart still beat for the sufferings of humanity, and that his immense charity was for oppressed races as well as individuals. And I then understood for whom those millions were destined which were forwarded by Captain Nemo when the Nautilus was cruising in the waters of Crete.
Vigo 6-7 June
07/06/07 15:43 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
Real Club Nautico de Vigo, where we are moored, has a lovely club house built in the style of an ocean liner.
View from the bow.
View from the port side.
Jules Verne sculpture nearby.
Vigo is one of the 2007 Cow Parade cities along with Milan. The exhibits are scattered around the city and a few caught my eye.
View from the bow.
View from the port side.
Jules Verne sculpture nearby.
Vigo is one of the 2007 Cow Parade cities along with Milan. The exhibits are scattered around the city and a few caught my eye.
To La Coruña
05/06/07 15:41 Filed in: Galicia
Off to La Coruña today. While there I had weekly coffees with Carmen, the idea being that my very poor Spanish and her pretty good English might improve, and had promised to have lunch with her before leaving Spain.
Another chance to ride the Renfe high speed train.
View of Isla San Simon, which I hope to visit later this week, from the train.
It's abour a two hour run to La Corunna. I was met at the station and had a nice lunch and very enjoyable afternoon.
It must be said that Carmen's English improved hugely. Not something which can be said about my Spanish.
Another chance to ride the Renfe high speed train.
View of Isla San Simon, which I hope to visit later this week, from the train.
It's abour a two hour run to La Corunna. I was met at the station and had a nice lunch and very enjoyable afternoon.
It must be said that Carmen's English improved hugely. Not something which can be said about my Spanish.
To Baiona
04/06/07 17:41 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
My theory is holding. Magnificent palm trees in the Plaza de Compostella and registration at the marina office resulted in 5 A4 sheets of paper being produced. So, our furthest port south, the biggest palm tree and the longest registration document. The daily cost is creeping up. €17 and change. The facilities at Real Club Nautico de Vigo are very tired and do not do justice to the two lovely buildings designed in the style of an ocean liner.
I gather that a financial restructuring is under way which may lead to improvements. The location is terrific. Minutes away from the centre of the largest city in Galicia.
The plan is to leave Vigo on Wednesday morning and sail further up the ria before visting the Islas Cies and then on to Baiona just south of the ria entrance. However I had heard and read a lot of negative comment about the marina at Baiona so after breakfast I caught a bus down to have a look.
In 1993 a replica of the caravel "Pinta" was built to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the arrival of the original "Pinta" in Baiona in1493. "Pinta" was one of three ships in the Columbus expedition which discovered the Americas. Of the others "Santa Maria" sank on christmas day 1492 and "Nina" left with "Pinta" to return to Spain. The two became separated and "Nina" ended up in Lisbon
"Pinta" was not a big ship, just under 30m long with a draught of 2m and a beam of 6.6m and a displacement of 115 tons. She carried a crew of 27 under the command of Captain Martin Pinzon. With her three large sails she could reach a speed of 15 knots. Pretty impressive.
The display on board includes items brought back to Spain including, corn, peppers, pumpkins, tomatoes and peanuts. It was well worth the entry cost of €1.
For another euro I was able to walk 3km around the walls of Monterreal Fort strategically placed to lob cannonballs at undesirable ships approaching Ria de Vigo from the south. Actually the history of a fort on the site goes back to the 9th century and the views are spectacular. While the walls remain a modern parador hotel has been built in the grounds.
Looking north from the fort, Islas Estellas in the foreground and Islas Cies in the distance.
I had thought there was only one marina at Baiona but there are now two. At the Monterreal Yacht Club mooring (med type) would cost €21.65 and a finger pontoon €29.75 plus €0.35 for electricity. Ouch! A stop at Baiona was looking unlikely but I called in at the new marina Puerto Deportiva de Baiona and was give a much more attractive rate of €14.53 all included.
Baiona with the old marina and fort wall in the foreground, "Pinta" in the centre and the new marina in the distance.
Back in Vigo I was unable to get the WiFi to work but, of all things, there is an Australian bar with free WiFi nearby. Off for a tinnie or two this evening.
I gather that a financial restructuring is under way which may lead to improvements. The location is terrific. Minutes away from the centre of the largest city in Galicia.
The plan is to leave Vigo on Wednesday morning and sail further up the ria before visting the Islas Cies and then on to Baiona just south of the ria entrance. However I had heard and read a lot of negative comment about the marina at Baiona so after breakfast I caught a bus down to have a look.
In 1993 a replica of the caravel "Pinta" was built to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the arrival of the original "Pinta" in Baiona in1493. "Pinta" was one of three ships in the Columbus expedition which discovered the Americas. Of the others "Santa Maria" sank on christmas day 1492 and "Nina" left with "Pinta" to return to Spain. The two became separated and "Nina" ended up in Lisbon
"Pinta" was not a big ship, just under 30m long with a draught of 2m and a beam of 6.6m and a displacement of 115 tons. She carried a crew of 27 under the command of Captain Martin Pinzon. With her three large sails she could reach a speed of 15 knots. Pretty impressive.
The display on board includes items brought back to Spain including, corn, peppers, pumpkins, tomatoes and peanuts. It was well worth the entry cost of €1.
For another euro I was able to walk 3km around the walls of Monterreal Fort strategically placed to lob cannonballs at undesirable ships approaching Ria de Vigo from the south. Actually the history of a fort on the site goes back to the 9th century and the views are spectacular. While the walls remain a modern parador hotel has been built in the grounds.
Looking north from the fort, Islas Estellas in the foreground and Islas Cies in the distance.
I had thought there was only one marina at Baiona but there are now two. At the Monterreal Yacht Club mooring (med type) would cost €21.65 and a finger pontoon €29.75 plus €0.35 for electricity. Ouch! A stop at Baiona was looking unlikely but I called in at the new marina Puerto Deportiva de Baiona and was give a much more attractive rate of €14.53 all included.
Baiona with the old marina and fort wall in the foreground, "Pinta" in the centre and the new marina in the distance.
Back in Vigo I was unable to get the WiFi to work but, of all things, there is an Australian bar with free WiFi nearby. Off for a tinnie or two this evening.
Sanxenxo to Vigo
03/06/07 18:42 Filed in: Ria de Vigo
My original plan had been to leave early for Vigo, stopping en route at the Islas Cies for a few hours.
Events intervened. I got up late and there was no wind early on. The wind that did develop was not the best in which to lie at anchor off the islands. Another day....
Ian on "Sandaig" left about an hour before me bound for Puerta Pedras Negras on his way back to England.
Ian and "Sandaig"
We finally got underway at 12:25 and cleared Sanxenxo marina at 12:35. Initially there was very little wind and we motorsailed for about 40 minutes until the wind veered to the northwest at around 10 knots. There followed a fabulous sail down the coast to the Ria Vigo. The wind steadily increased to 22 knots (F5) and we were flying along at well over 5 knots for much of the trip.
Once we entered the Ria de Vigo and passed Cabo Home the wind started to fade and we motored the last three miles to Vigo. As we approched the marina the wind picked up again which was unhelpful given the difficulty manoevring once inside.
The procedure is to moor at the fuel berth at the marina entrance and await berth allocation. The wind was blowing straight off this berth but I got alongside OK. Then I was allocated berth 119 which lay parallel to the fuel berth. The moorings here are med type where one moors stern to and picks up a bow line tailed to the pontoon. In still conditions this is fairly straight forward. With 12 knots of wind on the beam it gets interesting.
I got the stern close enough to get a line ashore but the bow swung around very quickly. Fortunately the marinero was able to use his dinghy as a tug and push us into a position where I could cleat off the bow line. The end result is that the boat sits stern to the pontoon and is held in equilibrium about 2 metres off by the bow line which is secured to the marina floor and spending most of its life underwater is covered in slime.
Once moored and during mooring plenty of fenders are required as adjacent boats often bounce off one another as they move about on the moorings.
The merits of this arrangement are not apparent. I can only assume that the build cost is cheaper and more boats can be got into the available space. For the single hander it is a very dodgy proposition but we were all fast at on berth 119, Real Club Nautico de Vigo at 17:35.
Getting ashore is interesting. Kiriwina has a stern hung rudder and Dame Kiri, our Aries, projects beyond the rudder. One must first pull on a stern line to bring the stern within jumping distance, climb over the pushpit onto Dame Kiri taking care not to interfere with any of the four aerials on the top rail, and leap ashore. If this is not done smartly the boat will resume its position 2 metres off the pontoon and the process must be repeated.
Later in the evening I went for a coffee in one of the numerous waterfront cafes near the Club Nautico. This part of the waterfont is quite attractive.
Events intervened. I got up late and there was no wind early on. The wind that did develop was not the best in which to lie at anchor off the islands. Another day....
Ian on "Sandaig" left about an hour before me bound for Puerta Pedras Negras on his way back to England.
Ian and "Sandaig"
We finally got underway at 12:25 and cleared Sanxenxo marina at 12:35. Initially there was very little wind and we motorsailed for about 40 minutes until the wind veered to the northwest at around 10 knots. There followed a fabulous sail down the coast to the Ria Vigo. The wind steadily increased to 22 knots (F5) and we were flying along at well over 5 knots for much of the trip.
Once we entered the Ria de Vigo and passed Cabo Home the wind started to fade and we motored the last three miles to Vigo. As we approched the marina the wind picked up again which was unhelpful given the difficulty manoevring once inside.
The procedure is to moor at the fuel berth at the marina entrance and await berth allocation. The wind was blowing straight off this berth but I got alongside OK. Then I was allocated berth 119 which lay parallel to the fuel berth. The moorings here are med type where one moors stern to and picks up a bow line tailed to the pontoon. In still conditions this is fairly straight forward. With 12 knots of wind on the beam it gets interesting.
I got the stern close enough to get a line ashore but the bow swung around very quickly. Fortunately the marinero was able to use his dinghy as a tug and push us into a position where I could cleat off the bow line. The end result is that the boat sits stern to the pontoon and is held in equilibrium about 2 metres off by the bow line which is secured to the marina floor and spending most of its life underwater is covered in slime.
Once moored and during mooring plenty of fenders are required as adjacent boats often bounce off one another as they move about on the moorings.
The merits of this arrangement are not apparent. I can only assume that the build cost is cheaper and more boats can be got into the available space. For the single hander it is a very dodgy proposition but we were all fast at on berth 119, Real Club Nautico de Vigo at 17:35.
Getting ashore is interesting. Kiriwina has a stern hung rudder and Dame Kiri, our Aries, projects beyond the rudder. One must first pull on a stern line to bring the stern within jumping distance, climb over the pushpit onto Dame Kiri taking care not to interfere with any of the four aerials on the top rail, and leap ashore. If this is not done smartly the boat will resume its position 2 metres off the pontoon and the process must be repeated.
Later in the evening I went for a coffee in one of the numerous waterfront cafes near the Club Nautico. This part of the waterfont is quite attractive.
Sanxenxo
02/06/07 18:19 Filed in: Ria de Pontavedra
Returning from Pontavedra I found a lovely red steel yacht moored astern. It was "Sandaig" skippered by Ian, a retired orthopedic surgeon, who has been sailing her round the world for over 25 years.
Later he invited me on board for a chat. What a character. He is 72 years old and had "Sandaig" built around 1980 doing much of the work himself. The attention to detail on this boat is truly impressive as is Ian himself. He is still sailing single handed and plans to continue as long as he can. I felt quite humbled by his achievements.
I have been set quite an example.
Later he invited me on board for a chat. What a character. He is 72 years old and had "Sandaig" built around 1980 doing much of the work himself. The attention to detail on this boat is truly impressive as is Ian himself. He is still sailing single handed and plans to continue as long as he can. I felt quite humbled by his achievements.
I have been set quite an example.
Pontavedra
01/06/07 18:14 Filed in: Ria de Pontavedra
I had heard that Pontevedra was worth a visit. It is also the home of Colin Davies who writes a very entertaining blog on life in Spain.
It is about an 30 minutes away on the bus and the road overlooks the Ria for most of the way allowing me to view my waterborne trip from a different perspective.
I found Pontevedra, or at least the old central area, to be a very attractive town where the car has been held at bay or banished and much of the built environment has remained intact and been restored. Large attractive public buildings contrasted with little houses tucked away on cobbled hilly side streets.
And the palms just keep getting bigger....
There were lots of bars and restaurants and as the evening wore on there was quite a buzz. The absence of cars was very noticeable and welcome. A folk dancing competition between schools in the area was underway with quite stunning costumes.
I stayed in the Hotel Rúas on the edge of the old quarter. Not bad at €30 on a friday night and not too noisy.
It is about an 30 minutes away on the bus and the road overlooks the Ria for most of the way allowing me to view my waterborne trip from a different perspective.
I found Pontevedra, or at least the old central area, to be a very attractive town where the car has been held at bay or banished and much of the built environment has remained intact and been restored. Large attractive public buildings contrasted with little houses tucked away on cobbled hilly side streets.
And the palms just keep getting bigger....
There were lots of bars and restaurants and as the evening wore on there was quite a buzz. The absence of cars was very noticeable and welcome. A folk dancing competition between schools in the area was underway with quite stunning costumes.
I stayed in the Hotel Rúas on the edge of the old quarter. Not bad at €30 on a friday night and not too noisy.