Hull to Gloucestershire

We were off the ferry in Hull by 08:30. Karl, Chiara and Veleno were going north towards Harrogate and I was going south to tranquility base in Gloucestershire.

Karl and Chiara about to embark in Hull.


Karl, Chiara and Veleno about to leave Hull.

Dusseldorf to Hull

We arrived in Dusseldorf on time at 09:00. It was cloudy and overcast.

Looks like rain...


Now it is raining and we're off.



Chiara and Veleno were going to travel with us to Breda where Kijn's parents had invited us for brunch. By the time we set off it was raining very heavily and continued to do so all the way to Breda where we arrived a couple of hours later.

In Breda five very wet motorcyclists were treated to a lovely brunch complete with home made bread. We were able to dry out and made very welcome.


How do you dry wet gloves very quickly?...


....in the microwave!





A few hours later, well fed and much drier we continued on our way to Rotterdam minus Kijn and without the rain.

We got to Rotterdam around 14:30.

Karl, Chiara and Veleno checking in for the ferry to hull


We later had dinner together on board and an early night.

Levico Therme to Verona

Our last day in Italy and it was very hot. We set off fairly early for the motorway drive south to Verona.

Karl and Kijn in the shady car park at our hotel in Levico Therme


The drive south was uneventful apart from the fact that I was left behind again by Karl & Kijn who took off at high speed. Strangely, I got to the station at Verona before them.

Karl and Kijn again at the Autozug terminal in Verona.



Kijn, on Verona station, displaying her keen sense of fashion.


Our train left on time at 15:06 and we got into the restaurant car fairly early before the rush. We didn't really leave it until very late in the evening when it closed. Chiara and Veleno joined us for part of the evening. They were leaving sunny Italy on their motorcycle for a touring holiday in Scotland.

Alleghe to Levico Therme

We got a reasonably early start and took the same road as yesterday over Passo Giau to Cortina D'Ampezzo. Another welcome chance to ride my favourite road.

From Cortina we rode north along a valley road to Cimbanche and Dobbiaco where we joined the busier S49 heading west to Villabosa and San Lorenzo where we turned south back nto the mountains towards Saalen.

Self and Kijn near Saalen.
.


We ended up on a narrow mountain road and quite by chance came across the Gasthof-Albergo Maria Saalen (established in the year 892.) It was a lovely spot with views over a mountain valley and we stopped for lunch.

Gasthof-Albergo Maria Saalen, view from the terrace restaurant.


Gasthof-Albergo Maria Saalen another view from the restaurant.


Gasthof-Albergo Maria Saalen, Karl & Kijn.


Having ordered a bottle of mineral water we discovered that everyone else was filling a jug from the mountain spring just behind our table.


After lunch we proceeded south through Zwichenwassen, Stern, Passo Gardena , Ortisec, Chiusa and then back onto the motorway where we got separated. I knew we were going to a lake near Trento but I ended up at Lago di Sei which was the wrong one.

We linked up again and went to Levico Therme, a small spa town where we had another nice meal on, sadly, our last night in Italy.

Day ride to Passo di Falgarezzo

We decided to stay over at Alleghe and take a day ride without luggage.

Leaving Alleghe we took my favourite ride up the mountain road to Passo Giau at 2233 metres

The winding road leading up to Passo Giau with mountains behind.


Karl arriving at Passo Giau.


Followed by Kijn.


Riders at Passo Giau with spectacular mountains.


We then rode down the mountain to Cortina D'Ampezzo where we had a light lunch.

The road from Passo Giau just outside Cortina.



After Cortina we took the S48 to Passo Falgarezzo at 2117m.


Then it was back down to Alleghe. A lovely ride with perfect weather which was followed by another excellent meal in our hotel.

Moena to Alleghe

The rain had completely cleared and the roads were dry when we set off for the 30 mile run to Alleghe.

The roads were very crowded on the ride up to Passo Pordoi via Canazei.

Karl & Kijn at Passo Pordoi


On the way down the roads were much clearer and we had a good ride to Alleghe via Arraba and Pieve and finally along the S563.

At Alleghe we checked in to the Sport Hotel Europa where Karl & I had stayed a few years ago. It is a lovely spot. The hotel is situated on a lake shore and the town is surrounded almost entirely by mountains.

After lunch at the hotel we took a ride via two cable cars to the top of a ridge overlooking Alleghe. The views were spectacular.

Karl & Kijn



Mountains above Alleghe


Self and Kijn


More Mountains


The food at this hotel is very good so we ate there again in the evening.

Salo to Moena

A lovely day and cooler due to a strong southerly breeze whipping up a chop on Lake Garda.

The plan today was to drive north along the western edge of Lake Garda then up into the mountains to somewhere nice.

We passed Riva del Garda, Arco and Drena before stopping for a coffee at Trento. Then we took the motorway north to Ora where we turned onto the S48 and entered the Dolomites.

Passing through Gastello Molina it started to rain and by the time we reached Moena it was raining heavily.
Time to stop for the day and check into the Hotel De Ville under whose balcony we had conveniently sheltered.

Later the rain stopped and we were able to have a look around.

Alpine river passing through Moena.


The Restaurant Tirol was recommended for dinner and very nice it was too. KIjn, as usual, chose excellent wine.

Karl & Kijn in the Restaurant Tirol


Odometer 4325

Verona to Salo

We arrived in Verona on time at around 09:00. Then there was the usual wait of about 45 minutes for the vehicle train to be shunted round to the unloading siding where we could collect our bikes. It was becoming very hot.

Autozug Railcars


Bikes ready to go.


The ride round to Salo took about an hour. We stayed at the Hotel Laurin. A lovely place and very relaxing.

Hotel Pool


Hotel Laurin.


We had a pizza dinner in town. Over the years we had visited Salo several times. It was interesting that some menus are now available in Russian.

Odometer 4182

Den Bosch to Dusseldorf

We were up early for a boat trip on the Binnendieze, the historic town river of Den Bosch. Kijn didn't make it. The history of this river and Den Bosch is complex.

The river Dommel originates in Belgium. It is called the Binnendieze within the city limits of Den Bosch. For defensive reasons building outside the city walls was prohibited in the middle ages. The only way to meet housing need was to build over the river delta within the city walls. This activity began in the early 1500's and over time city was raised about 10ft.

Starting point of the Binnendieze tour. The boats are propelled by battery powered outboards.


Uncovered section. The draught is around 5 ft.


Outside the city walls.


Passing under road and foot bridges.


Our boatman, Hans.


Passing under private houses.


The tour over we returned to the hotel and packed ready for departure. When we had first met Kijn in Italy 2 years ago she was carrying everything but the kitchen sink. She arrived with a small shoulder bag carrying her luggage for the week.

We left Den Bosch at 13:30 and drove to Dusseldorf. Firstly towards Eindhoven then to Venlo and on to Dusseldorf station.

At checkin for the
AutoZug we explained that due to a ticket whereabouts malfunction we did not have our tickets. The Bahn staff sorted things out quickly and the bikes were loaded. We went for a drink on the station concourse.

Departure was on time at 17:54. The train was full so we went to the dining car soon after.

Karl & Kijn in the dining car.

Europort to Den Bosch

The ferry was on time and the weather was good. We stopped for a coffee on route to Den Bosch and arrived at lunchtime.



A hotel had been reserved for us which we had been told was on the main square. Den Bosch was a maze of one way streets and we were unable to make our way to, or even find, our hotel. By abandoning the Monster and walking through town I eventually found the Golden Tulip Hotel Central. Back to the bike and we made our way to the hotel and checked in.

Our sommelier for the trip, Kijn, lives and works in Den Bosch. We met for a coffee before Karl and I wandered off for a look around this very attractive town.

We had dinner at a new restaurant,
Coquille, where Kijn works. Coquille was one of 5 Dutch restaurants appearing in the reality TV show Mijn Tent is Top where the audience vote for their favourite of the 5. Coquille won.

It was a lovely dinner. We sat down at 19:00 and left at about 00:30 having been well looked after by Kijn and her colleagues.

Self and Karl at Coquille


Coquille Interior



Yorkshire

Up early with a few things to sort out before we leave.

My first call is to Vision Express who complete an eye test and make me two pairs of reading glasses within an hour of the test. Not cheap but by avoiding designer frames I kept the cost down.

I also want to replace the mobile phone I lost in Villagarcia. I want a Sony Ericsson and while some of the networks have it on contract only Carphone warehouse have it available without contract and usable with any Sim card.

A visit to Boots for a few holiday items and I was ready to go.

The bikes were packed and we set off at around 16:30 (mileage 3950) having donned rainsuits. There was a heavy rainstorm moving north towards us. We almost made it to Hull but the storm caught us 20 minutes out.

We arrived at the P&O terminal in Hull at 19:30 and boarded almost immediately. After getting changed we had a nice but relatively expensive meal on board and a few drinks in the bar where I managed to delete all my Lisbon photos from the camera.


Yorkshire

Thursday 19th July

Another lovely drive with very little traffic over the A59. I made very good time and arrived at Karls house in Harrogate at just after 17:30.

We get a take away and retire early as there is a lot to do tomorrow.

Lancashire

Tuesday 17th July
I had a pretty good run up the M5 and M6 with only about 10 minutes of rain and half an hour of wet roads. I left at 16:10 and arrived at 19:30.

My friend J had recently moved into a new house and the street signs had still to be put up. Sheld had cooked a lovely dinner complete with salad fresh from the new garden.

We caught up and had an early night.

Wednesday 18th July
There are some advantages to new houses. I was particularly taken with the blue button at the bathroom door. When pressed this started the shower and set the temperature to the setting previously used. Neat!

Spent the day helping out and having a look at one or two problems with the computers.

In the evening we went for a meal at the usual pub in a small village nearby.

Thursday 19th July
An early start followed by a full day continuing on from yesterday. Followed J on the Monster to work A lovely drive through rural Lancashire.

Got a lot done and left at 16:45 for Yorkshire via the A59.


Gloucestershire 11-16 July 2007

Wednesday 11th July
I had an 09:00 flight to London which was too early for the airport bus. The tourist office had briefed me well and I got up early to catch a tram into the city where I caught a normal bus to the airport arriving at about 07:50 in plenty of time.

The flight was on time and so was the coach to Cheltenham where I was met and taken to Tranquility Base in rural Gloucestershire. After almost a year away there was a lot of catching up to do and a large pile of mail most of which was immediately recycled.

It had been a long day and I didn't stay up late.

Thursday 12th July
Got up and checked my Ducati Monster. The battery was flat as was the front tyre.
Off to Cheltenham on a shopping trip. Halfords for a battery charger, Maplins for some electrical bits, M&S for some clothes, the Post Office to road tax the Monster and Nationwide for some money stuff.

Back at base after several hours on charge the battery is failing to respond. It is a modern gel type. These seem a lot less reliable than the old lead acid types.

Friday 13th July
Online first thing to order several items for the boat. A small cockpit table, some special teak wax, some charts of southern Spain and the Canaries some Monel seizing wire and a waterproof Icom handheld VHF.

Then it was off to Gloucestershire to buy a new battery for the Monster. The dealer told me that once this type of battery goes flat it is dead and cannot be recharged. In future if I leave the Monster idle it will have to be kept on trickle charge so at least the charger I bought yesterday won't be wasted.

Back at base, as the plan is to sail further away from Europe I decided to have an MOT comprising a full medical and body scan. The medical was booked for Monday in Birmingham and the scan for tuesday morning in Bristol.

The new battery was put on charge and then it was back into Cheltenham to see if I could get some new reading glasses at short notice. I couldn't. I got a test at Specsavers but didn't like the look and feel of the place so the new specs will have to wait.

M's son Paul arrived from London and we returned to base.

Saturday 14th July
The battery has been on charge overnight and is now ready. I installed in the Monster and the engine fired up at the first attempt despite having been idle for over a year.

Now for the flat tyre. Paul borrowed a pump and after a few minutes activity the tyre was correctly inflated and we were ready to roll.

I took a quick test drive into Cheltenham, the Monster is running well, and stopped by the coffee bar located in my old shop. They seem to have settled in and are doing well. I tried again for the specs and again failed.

Spent a quiet evening at base

Sunday 15th July
Had a nice Sunday morning lay-in. Then off to a local country inn for a very nice lunch with M and Paul.

Spent the afternoon and evening packing and sorting through files.

Monday 16th July
It was medical day today. I rode the Monster up to Birmingham for my appointment at 12:45. I arrived at 12:47. The medical lasted for just over two hours and seemed pretty comprehensive although I was unimpressed with the facility.

Their initial findings revealed nothing nasty and this was confirmed in the subsequent written report.

During the ride back rain threatened but held up. Having thrown my old rain suit away I had wondered whether I could get away without one. I decided not and on the way back called in at a Triumph dealer to buy a new rain suit.

Back to base to complete packing. Several of the pieces I ordered last week for the boat have arrived.

Tuesday 17th July
I rode into Cheltenham first thing for a dental appointment. My checkup had revealed a broken tooth which needed to be fixed.
When I emerged from the dentist with a numb jaw the heavens had opened. It was time to christen my new rainsuit.

Then plan had been to ride down to Bristol for the scan and then head north. With heavy rain continuing M offered to drive me to Bristol.

The scan appointment was for 14:10 and we arrived in plenty of time. There was some pfaffing about parking which I thought was silly but the scan went smoothly if not particularly comfortably at times. Nothing of note was revealed but the full report will follow in a few days.

Then it was back to base to load up the Monster and drive to Lancashire.






Lisbon

Up fairly early and into Belem cultural centre for more coffee. Then it was on to the maritime museum across the road which had been closed yesterday.

While not a huge museum it was very interesting and I spent over two hours there. There was a large section on the early Portuguese navigators who were supported by King Henry "The Navigator" who did not do much navigation himself but was a patron of those who did. I also found out that "Gil Eannes" was from this era and was the first european to round Cape Bojador in Mauretania.

The section on Portuguese warships revealed that Portugal engaged in armed conflict with India in the early 1960's, something I was not aware of. There was a good section on the Portuguese cod fishing fleets which were served by the restored hospital ship
"Gil Eannes" which I had seen in Viana do Castelo. There was also a model of this ship.

The last section featured some beautifully restored royal barges and a small selection of Portuguese owned seaplanes one of which had made a non stop flight to Argentina.

After some more sightseeing I had an early dinner called it a day. Tomorrow will be a long one.

Lisbon

Another morning coffee in Belem cultural centre with internet and e-mail.

Then it was into Lisbon city centre again for some more exploration. This time I was able to get a much more detailed map from the tourist office. Walking around Lisbon is certainly energetic due to the city being built on 5 hills.

Having lost my I-Pod at some point I decided to pop into El Corte Ingles for a replacement. This time in orange which I hope will be harder to lose.

As there was a Cinema in the same building I had a late lunch and afterwards saw the latest Bruce Willis Die hard film. A proper action film with minimal CGE. When Bruce crashes a car the car is really crashed. The car knocking down a helicopter was a bit ott and was CGE anyway.

Later I walked through Parque Eduado VII and back down Avenida da Libertad, through Plaza Pedro and on down to the waterfront before returning to Belem.

Lisbon

Another lovely day in Lisbon.

After sleeping in I had a walk around Belem. Lots of people were out and about and I had a late morning coffee in the huge cultural centre where I was able to check my e-mail.

I have tickets for an evening concert featuring
Pat Metheny and Brad Mehldau. Rather than risk getting there late I decided to take an afternoon trip out to the University to check on the route. It was all very straightforward and easily accomplished on the excellent Lisbon metro.

Later in the evening I returned for the concert. It was held in a large hall at the University of Lisbon to the north of the city centre. Pat Metheny on guitar and Brad Meldau on piano, with support on drums and base, were on stage for over two hours and three encores. An excellent concert in a lovely venue.

Lisbon

A very relaxing day in Lisbon starting with a coffee in a popular cafe near the hotel in Belem. I treated myself to a copy of The Guardian to read over my coffee.

I have to say it. Having been in Portugal for a few weeks now the coffee does not compare well with that in Spain. I wonder why.

Then I took the train into town to check on the marina at Doca de Alcantara. I had been led to believe that berths were hard to come by in August. No problem. There were plenty of berths and the cost was the same as at Nazaré. Ah well! I could have left the boat here after all.

Later I wet into the city centre and had a drink in the Plaza da Figueira. At the bottom of Aveida da Libertade there is a beautifully restored art deco theatre facade which now fronts a hotel. The avenue itself is wide and tree lined. It leads from the city centre gently up hill to the large Parque Eduado VII.

To Lisbon

Any early start. I finished cleaning the boat and stowing the foresails below.

Then it was time to leave. Although my case was not heavy it was quite a walk to into town and I was glad of my belated conversion to wheelie suitcases.

The bus to Lisbon left Nazaré at 12:25 and arrived at north Lisbon bus station around 15:00. A comfortable trip for the very reasonable fare of €8.30.

I then used the excellent Lisbon public transport system to make my way to Belem where I stayed at the
Pensáo Residential Setubalense. Cheap and cheerful at €35.00 per night.

It was a lovely warm afternoon so I walked along the river and then into the centre of Lisbon. Not the wisest decision to wear my new flip flops on such a long walk and break-in blisters resulted.

Tagus Bridge


Blisters aside I had a good look around the city. It was warm and sunny and I liked the feel of the place.

Nazare

I have decided to take advantage of the availability of marine services in Nazaré to add an "A" frame onto the pushpit railing at Kiriwina's stern.

The present arrangements are rather cluttered and a frame will enable a variety of aerials and the Superwind to be mounted clear or the pushpit railings.

The day was spent taking down the Superwind wind generator and removing the pushpit. Fortunately everything went smoothly and the pushpit was taken away by the contractor. I hope he completes the work on time.

To Batalha

Took a trip today to the town of Batalha. The monastery there was built netween 1386 and 1517and is a Unesco world heritage site. The main buildings comprise a church and two cloisters.

It is a lovely building and has a museum which includes masonry and stained glass workshops where conservation work continues.

North wall of the church. Imperfect chapels.


Cloister of King Joao 1 with the church in the background.


Masonry detail including gargoyle.


Church viewed from the Cloister of King Joao 1.


Gargoyle.


Cloister of King Alfonso V.


Church interior.


Church main entrance.


A very large statue of King Joao 1 who defeated the Castilian army in the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385 and founded the monastery.

Nazaré

The old town of Nazare is sited high up on the promontory that forms Punta da Nazaré. In the 18th century the sea level dropped and the town developed along the adjacent beach where the bulk of it now is.

It is about 2km from the marina to the town centre so the Brompton was very useful. Although there is a large fishing industry at Nazaré it appears to be predominately a tourist town with visitors attracted by the large beach. Many restaurant menus are in 5 languages, French, German, English, Spanish in addition to Portuguese.

The pilot book refers to the inhabitants having grey eyes and long straight noses indicating Phoenecian origin. Despite looking as closely as possible I saw little evidence of this.

View from the old town looking down at modern Nazaré and the huge beach with the harbour entrance in the distance.


Figueira da Foz to Nazaré

At 09:25 we left the marina at Figueira da Foz. Ten minutes later we exited the harbour in challenging conditions. Last night the sea was virtually calm but overnight a predicted 3m swell had arrived. The swell likely originated hundreds of miles away in one of the low pressure systems which are now causing unseasonable weather in the UK.

At sea
a 3m swell is not really an issue but in 5m of water at a harbour entrance a 3m swells becomes a very steep and often breaking wave. There were breakers at each side of the entrance but not in the middle so we pressed on.

The seas were very steep and at one point I saw 1.4m on the depth guage (0.5m from being aground.) We continued and soon the water deepened though the seas remained steep and only flattened out to a big swell once we passed the 20m line. I heard that Figueira da Foz was closed later in the day.

We continued motorsailing down the coast but kept well offshore outside the 30m line. The swell was from the NW, causing a fairly rolly trip, but the wind was variable and rarely over 5knots.

Approaching Nazaré we rounded Punta da Nazaré where the swell was breaking spectacularly.



The southern face of Cabo Nazaré with its unusual rock formation. This continues downwards into an undersea canyon of great depth.


Once round Punta da Nazaré where the depth is 25m we crossed the undersea canyon at a depth of 160m. It then slowly shallowed to around 30m just short of the harbour entrance. The water depth in the canyon had the added effect of absorbing the ocean swells so that by the time the harbour was entered much of the swell had gone.

Any remaining swell was dissipated in the outer harbour so that by the time the inner harbour was reached it was virtually flat calm. A clever harbour design.

We were all fast in the marina at 16:55. Days run 33.9 miles. Marina Cost €17.50 per day.