Redes

On saturday and sunday I went through all the cabin storage lockers, of which there are 16, sorting the contents restowing in the light of a years experience. The salt air is extremely hostile and even where I have sealed items in airtight containers with a silica gel sachet corrosion has occurred.

Later on sunday evening I went for a walk into Ares and watched some of the FC Barcelona football game in two different cafes/bars.

The weather forecast on Monday morning is for W winds F5-6. No good for my next stage to Laxé where much of the trip is on a westerly heading. I decided to spend the night at anchor off Redes, which is sheltered from westerlies, and see how the weather looked on tuesday.

Before leaving I have to visit the Centro de Salud. At around 10:30 it is quite busy but patient turnover is quite fast. There are at least 6 consulting rooms but not all are for doctors. Two are for nurses and there is one especially for children. After about 20 minutes I was called in by the nurse. My fingers are healing quickly. The dressings were changed and I was out in about 7 minutes.

I stopped to buy some bread and had a coffee. Then it was off to the library to check e-mails. There is a programme funded partially by the EU to bring free internet access to libraries in small communities. There are two computers available but wi-fi access is available and can be used on one's own computer.

Back at the marina I settled up and left at 13:40. It is only about 2 miles round to Redes and by 14:20 we were anchored just outside the fixed moorings off the village.

As evening approached it became apparent that the wind was more S to SW than W which meant that the anchorage was exposed directly to the wind over a fetch of several miles. At that point the wind speed was under 10 knots. Not really a problem but not ideal.

Later in the evening the wind strengthened, gusting over 20kn with frequent rain squalls. The boat was bouncing about and veering around the anchor chain but the new Rocna anchor did not budge. I cat napped during the night, regularly checking the position.

Approaching Redes anchorage.


Punta Modias


At anchor off Redes village.


Ares

Another cloudy day but it's not raining.

I decide to deploy the Brompton and cycle along to Redes to see what the approaches look like. The main road is away from the beach but it is only about 4.5 kilometres before a left turning takes one down a hill and into the tiny port of Redes. A very pretty place it is too. No sign of any modern developments although I notice several homes being refurbished. Unlike Ares some effort seems to have been made to to preserve traditional architecture.

Redes

The chart indicates a large fish farm near Redes but looking down from Punta Modias I can see no sign of it. There is one to the west but this is clearly marked. Jose-Ramon's copy of El Litoral De Galicia - Rías Altas indicated that it was OK to anchor off Redes.
I might give it a try tomorrow.

View of Redes moorings from Punta Modias.

On the way back I take a variety of back roads which allow access to the shore at various points. This is a very attractive Ría.

More photos
here.

When I get back to the boat I change the bandaids on my fingers. I don't like the look of them and decide to visit the Centro de Salud. What an impressive place. I am barely through the door when a nurse spots my fingers and beckons me into a consulting room. She has a look and before going any further asks me to give my European Health Insurance Card to the receptionist.

Good news! The damage to my fingers is not too serious. The nurse cleans up the cuts and holes and bandages three fingers. She then gives me a tetanus jab. I am told to return on monday and instructed not to use the fingers or get them wet. Looks like sailing is ruled out for a few days. Ah well. It's nice here.

The whole process took about 20 minutes with zero waiting time and was handled entirely by the duty nurse. Very, very impressive.



Back at the marina I am told that I can stay at my berth until tuesday.

Ares

By 08:00 when I get up the wind has died completely and it is flat calm though overcast and threatening showers.

View NE from anchorage at Ares.


While at anchor I can potter about sorting out stowage. The boat and her kit need to be fully switched over from port mode to sea mode.

A new marina has been built at Ares which the chart and pilot books do not show. It is shown on our electronic Navionics chart and in the almanac. I decide to go in and have a look. They only have two nights available.

I spend the rest of the afternoon sorting and stowing and weigh anchor at 16:20 with 22 knot northerly wind. As the anchor comes clear of the bottom Kiriwina is blown downwind fairly trapidly and in my haste to get the anchor stowed I experience a fingers clear of the windlass malfunction which left 3 fingers on my left hand looking a tad rojo.

With my left hand wrapped in a towel we proceed to the berth and helped by the boatswain we are are all fast by 16:40.

The office staff are very helpful and after filling out the usual long form I pay €19:48 for two nights. The marina was built by Portos de Galicia in 2003 and is managed by
Club Náutico Ría de Ares. It is in the process of being expanded with a substantial number of new berths being added.

Rather than broach my first aid kit I decide to walk into Ares and buy some bandaids. Ares sits on the edge of a bay ringed by a very long beach. The town is very old but has recently undergone something of a building boom which continues. Some of the new buildings lack sympathy with their neighbours. There are several bar/cafes facing the beach with other shops and services in the streets further back from the beach. The library has free internet access.

Depart La Coruña

Typical! After so much good weather it had to rain on the day I want to leave.

It clears by mid morning which allows me to finish servicing the port foresail winch. Then I settle up with the marina and say goodby to Miguel and thank him and his colleagues for their help during my stay in La Coruña.

I need some provisions and get the bus to the supermarket and a taxi back. The engine starts first time and I leave it running while the fresh water tanks are filled. Once this is done we are ready to go.

At 16:10 we leave beth 501 at Darsena Deportiva for the last time. A few minutes later Carmen phones to say goodbye. She is watching me with her family from their apartment which overlooks the harbour. I can see them waving. Thanks Carmen.

As we round the breakwater and proceed north the weather is not too bad. Northish F3-4 and a big swell. We will motor all the way as sailing is out of the question with this wind.

We are going to spend a couple of days in the Ria de Ares before heading south. The passage today only involves about 4-5 miles exposed to the open sea before we round A Marola and proceed into the sheltered waters of the Rias Ares and Betzanos.

I ponder whether to go to Ares or Redes. The pilot books and charts are inconsistent on the approaches to Redes so Ares it is. At 18:40 we anchor in 3.2m of water between the marina breakwater and playa de raso. The wind is from the north and the Rocna sets quickly. I veer 20m of chain.

During the evening water depth increases to 4.6m and the wind strengthens. I check our position regularly but we do not move, the anchor is well set.

Winch Servicing & Anchor Delivered

More fog this morning.

I got an early start and stripped the port foresail winch. This was quite stiff and was clogged with a lot of dried grease on the cogs while the mainshaft oil/grease was mostly emulsified.

As I was about to start re-assembly I received a call from Mariam who wanted to have lunch and say goodbye. I packed up the winch, greasing will have to wait till tomorrow, and went off for a nice lunch at La Bottega.

When I returned it had started to rain heavily. No more winch servicing but the good news was that my new Rocna anchor had arrived. Back on board I unpacked the 15kg anchor. It looked very good and was surprisingly easy to handle although it is heavier than my existing (now backup) CQR anchor.

My Rocna


Rocna stowed


Looks like a busy day tomorrow. I have a lot to do before sailing early in the afternoon.

Winch Servicing

The weather has finally changed. Mornings are now cooler with sometimes very dense fog which does not clear until late morning.

After waiting 3 days for a nearby ferreteria to receive a delivery of Camping Gaz I found another shop to exchange my empty bottle for a full one. I'm not entirely convinced that the one I got was completely full as there was no seal on it. It cost €8.60 and we shall see.

For some time I have intended to service my winches. Kiriwina has 6 all of which are
Lewmar. I had purchased a cleaning kit in Dartmouth last year and this included a detailed servicing leaflet.

I proceeded very slowly ever mindful of the risk of some essential piece being lost over the side. All went well and I finished both coach roof winches and the starboard foresail sheet winch. None of these winches had been serviced for a long time and the difference after cleaning and oiling/greasing was very noticeable.

Afterwards I had a coffee with Carmen to say goodbye.

New LED Lights

More nice weather and I spent the morning tidying the cabin and stowing things away ready for sea.

Later I bumped into my teacher Lis and her husband in town. We had a quick coffee and then we returned to the marina and I showed them round the boat.

Back to work and I revisit the AquaSignal light. The WD40 has done it's job and the light easily comes apart. The conventional filament bulbs are removed and replaced by new LED light clusters. In the tricolour I use the
Bebi Malosi light and in the all round white I use a Plastimo type cluster with a conventional bayonet fitting which I had bought from a Dutch skipper during my short stay in Sines.


New LED navigation light clusters.


The AquaSignal is closed and I climbed up the mast to re-install it. The masthead snap clips are not 100% so I used a lot of electrical tape for extra security.

At 17:00 I caught the lovely little restored tram from it's stop adjacent to the marina. The power unit was built by English Electric in 1912 and the cab was recently restored. It plys between the marina and Riazor stadium via
Torre de Hercules and the waterfront for the princely one way fare of €1.00.

Riazor beach looking west from the tram



Tram Interior


Tram Interior Ceiling


Tram - Exit side


Tram Entry Side

Toerail Sanding

Kiriwina has teak decks, toerails, grab rails, cockpit trim and seating. Most of which is badly weathered. Firstly the wood must be cleaned then sanded down to a smoothish finish to remove weather grooves and finally sealed with Endeavour Priming Oil.

I spend all day Friday (21st) and all day Saturday (22nd) doing this. The toerails looked good when I finished.

The photo shows a sanded and non sanded section on the stern toerail. If teak is not cared for weather erodes softer portions of the wood leaving the surface badly ridged.

Deportivo la Couruña 0 - Sevilla 3

Not the busiest of days today. Weather still lovely but forecast not looking good.

Having had one or two problems over the years with things getting wet in various boat lockers I prefer to store vulnerable material in good waterproof plastic boxes with a few silica-gel sachets thrown in. In the morning I went to
El Corte Ingles to stock up on some Emsa Clip & Close boxes. A German company but the boxes are made in Korea by Komax.

I attempt to dismantle the AquaSignal light but it is stuck tight. Rather than continuing to force it I spray the joint with lots of WD40 and leave it for a day or two.

Carmen drops by for another walk around to the yacht club for a coffee. On the way back it starts to rain lightly but within an hour it is raining heavily. I checked my e-mail and there was confirmation that my new Rocna anchor had been sent from Holland.

Today the local football team,
Deportivo la Coruña, are playing FC Sevilla in the 1st leg semi-final of the Copa del Rey. I have never been to a football match, ever! It seems to be a bit different in Spain and I decide to attend. As I leave the boat it is raining heavily and I take a rain jacket and an umbrella. The taxi drops me off at the ticket office and my first surprise is the cost. Forty euros! Wow, I won't be doing this too often.

Rounding the corner towards the
Riazor stadium entrance I wonder what I have let myself in for. A large number of Sevilla supporters were enjoying themselves in bars across the road from the stadium. The road itself was closed and there was a large deployment of Cuerpo Policia National heavies complete with helmets, clubs and padded combat trousers. Uh Oh! This did not look good at all.

I rapidly exited the area to find a cash machine and buy something to nibble on during the match. Returning about 20 minutes before kick-off I entered the stadium and found my seat. It was in an excellent position and as I sat down the teams emerged to warm up. At this point it was still raining and the crowd were being entertained by Queen videos on two big screens.

Both teams warming up.


Kickoff was at 21:00 and the rain had stopped by then. The stadium was by no means full (not surprising at €40 a ticket) but it was a biggish crowd. Expecting the worst I was pleasantly surprised at the total absence of malevolence. It was all very civilised and safe with a very mixed group of supporters.

It was an off night for Deportivo. They were well beaten 3-0. the next day
El Pais commented "El Sevilla desnuda al Deportivo".

All in all an enjoyable evening and one I might repeat, though not too often given the prices.

In the water again...

I'm certainly sleeping well with this increased level of activity. A good 9 hours last night. Yet another lovely day but it may be the last for a while. The weather forecast is for cloudy with showers tomorrow followed by rain at the weekend.

Today is laundry day. Four loads. Once this is started I resume sanding the teak toerails prior to a coating of Endeavour Priming Oil. After about 20 minutes sanding my friend Carmen arrives with some suggestions on places to visit in the Canary Islands. Later we walk round the promenade to one of the yacht clubs for a coffee.

Back on board I decide to plug in the external deck speakers for some music while I work. While so doing I suffer an attention malfunction which results in one of the mounting screws falling over the side. Oh well, I'm getting used to this now. On with the mask and snorkel and in I go. The screw is recovered on my second dive and I take take some more underwater pictures while I am there.

Propellor before and after cleaning.


About one quarter of the gunwhale is sanded and oiled before I finish for the day.

A tall ship arrived overnight so I walk around to have a look. She is the brig Stavros S Niarchos and a fine looking ship she is too. More photos
here.




She is operated by the
Tall Ships Youth Trust.

More harbour diving and up the mast

More of the same. Another fine and sunny day. In the mornings it is quite still but as we move into the afternoons a northish breeze usually builds to about 10 knots before fading away later in the evening.

Today I completed rigging the main. Then it was on with the diving gear again to clean the propellor, rudder heel and one or two spots on the hull where anti-fouling has been less effective. This time I wore beanie to keep my head warm. It worked.
With the snorkel I was able to work submerged instead of having to re-surface as the propellor is less than a metre underwater. The weed came off quite quickly but small barnacle like growth was quite robust but I got the worst off with a combination of wooden scraper and wire brush. I was in the water for almost an hour after which I was feeling quite cold. A hot shower fixed that.

Next it was up to the masthead to re-fix the VHF Aerial/Windex. This time I carefully put all tools and the aerial (each with a lanyard) into a bucket which was hoisted aloft before I climbed up. I also took my camera aloft.

The aerial went back without difficulty. Before removing the masthead
Aqua Signal Series 40 light unit I put a lanyard on it and it is removed without difficulty. This unit is a combined tri-colour and all round white light. It has snap fits with a 3 pin electrical connection. The snap fits look pretty flimsy and someone has used a large amount of electrical tape as backup.
Back on deck I have difficulty opening the Aqua Signal. A job for tomorrow.

My payment for the Rocna Anchor has been received in Holland. No news yet as to when I will get it.

A photo from the masthead.


Avenida de la Marina


From Mast Looking Aft


Avenida Montoto


Marina Approaches

Rigging

The weather is really marvellous. Day after day of fine sunny days with temperatures in the low 20's.

My new LED lights from
Bebi Electronics arrive from Fiji. Not bad considering I ordered them on 4th April and easter fell in between. I am going to replace some of the cabin lights and some nav lights with appropriate LED units with the aim of achieving much lower power consumption at sea.

Today I rigged the staysail and partially rigged the main. Everything seemed fine. The main is now 10 years old but is still in good condition and certainly good for another year.

I need to get some detailed charts for the Rias
(Mapes de Navegació) and get a copy of El Litoral de Galicia - Rías Baixas.

Jose-Ramon recommended
Librería Cartamar which is on the other side of La Coruña. I catch a bus over and they have all the charts I need. Not cheap though! At €24 they are pretty well on a par with UK chart prices. Unfortunately they are out of stock of El Litoral de Galicia - Rías Baixas. Back on the bus to Librería Arenas in the centre of town who do have the book.

Harbour diving

Another beautiful day. Yesterday saw a VHF Aerial removal malfunction when the aerial plumeted from the masthead into the water around amidships.

Although the water is very clear I cannot see the aerial so the only way to recover it will be to do a snorkel dive at low water around 10:00 when the water will be about 4m deep. It will be a chance to use my new fins/snorkel/mask. I don the kit and jump in. It's cold, very cold but pretty clean and clear. I swim round to where I think the aerial fell in and wait a few minutes till my breathing returns to normal and I have got used to the water temperature.

On the first dive I reach the bottom but return straight to the surface. On the second I stay down longer and swim along the bottom about 20ft. No luck. I surface and while most of me has adjusted to the temperature my head has not. I must get a hood.

Retracing my path on the third dive I find the aerial and bring it to the surface. I quickly get out of the water and depart for a hot shower.

Two remaining halyards are washed which completes the running rigging. If I get time I will do the mooring lines as well. A lot of boats are out sailing today so there are a few vacant berths nearby. I take the opportunity to inflate my tender "Kiriwini" launch her and row around to where I can start cleaning off the weed along Kiriwina's waterline. I can access about half the area I need to and using a wooden scraper and sponge the weed comes off quite easily.

The water being clear I can see down to the propellor and rudder heel. Both heavily overgrown with weed. The propellor was polished during the haul-out in September and clearly not enough antifoul was put on the heel. This is a good opportunity to test my new
underwater camera.

Weed encrusted propellor. Taken with Olympus 725SW about 0.5m below the surface.
An OK first attempt. Afterwards the camera is simply rinsed in fresh water and dried.


Weed encrusted rudder heel.


Kiriwina after the port side was cleaned.


I find that the VHF Aerial/Windex is not a
Windex but a UK made VTronics unit. The arrow at the top is missing.

I don't have time to source a new VTronics unit so I jury rig the arrow from the Windex to fit the Vtronics. Eventually the Vtronics will have to be replaced because corrosion on the rod has caused the plastic fixed indicators bracket to crack.

Later in the afternoon Jose-Ramon who owns the boat next door arrives with two volumes of
El Litoral De Galicia which cover the entire coastline of Galicia in amazing detail. Essentially they are a series of aerial photographs superimposed with useful features including hazards, anchorages, tourist routes, walks, points of interest, beaches and much more. he leaves them with me for a few days.

New sail rigged

Today I continued washing the running rigging in between the other jobs.

The entire boat was covered with a film of blackish dust during the winter. I take a bucket of water up the mast and clean as far as the radar scanner. The rest will be done later.

Then I climbed to the top of the mast to inspect the Windex. It needs to be taken down to fit a new wind direction arrow. I am able to dismount the unit and lean it on the mast head. Unfortunately the VHF aerial is a push connection and as I move the aerial wire the connection pops out and the unit falls into the water. Oh dear!

Back on deck I check the depth which is about 4m. I cannot see the Windex. The tide is rising so perhaps I will be able to see it at low water.

I fit the Furlex sail feeder which arrived yesterday and rig the new yankee foresail from
Arun sails with upgraded MT Square cloth. The sail fits perfectly and I'm looking forward to trying it out.

As low tide approaches around 21:00 I look again for the Windex but cannot see it in the fading light.

Trying to make a payment.

Another lovely day and another Fred Olsen cruise ship. This time it's the Black Watch. She is joined later by the Royal Netherlands Navy hydrographic survey vessel Snellius (A802). Note: Snellius is a lunar crater.

I decide to try and sort out the Rocna payment. After being refused by 3 Spanish banks who say they only provide such services for customers I try the
Correos. They can transmit money but only cash from person to person via Western Union. I need payment sent to a bank account.

The tourist office suggest I try the head office of
Caixa Galicia. A good suggestion and I am able to make my payment although it takes nearly an hour and costs 30 euros. I should receive my anchor next week. Hope it's worth all the trouble.

By the time I have had lunch a good chunk of the day has gone. I refit the spray hood after making some minor repairs and sand and oil portions of the teak trim around the companionway. The sliding companionway hatch is removed and replaced after cleaning.

Today I received a replacement sail feeder for the forward
Furlex from Atlantic Spars. The original fell off during the Biscay crossing when the bungee cord failed.


More cleaning.

As I am walking to the shower at around 07:30 the Fred Olsen cruise liner Boudicca docks for a daytime visit. Although built in 1973 she looks in very good condition.

I continue to wash the running rigging. Later I remove the sprayhood. This proves to be a bit fiddly as the press stud connectors are very stiff. I dislike this method of fitting and will replace it with something more sensible when the sprayhood is renewed. The sprayhood is very dirty with a lot of green mould and staining but it scrubs up quite well. I should get at least one more year out of it.

Next up is a complete scrub of the cabin exterior. Again, there is lots of black dust and some green mould. The teak grab rails are particuarly dirty despite my having cleaned them less than a year ago. They need to be sanded smooth and oiled.

The Rocna man from Holland e-mails to say that he will have stock ready to ship next week. Great, but I still have to work out a way to pay him. One UK bank requires a signed form and the other has not replied.

Cleaning the rigging

We continue to have excellent weather. Fine and sunny but not too hot at around 18 c.

Today I start on cleaning and making some small modifications to the running rigging. I mistakenly left most of it rigged over the winter thinking that a regular fresh water rinse would do no harm. What I didn't consider was black coal dust and green mould.

I develop a system using three buckets. One with liquid soap (for woolens), one with fabric softener and one for fresh water rinsing. Each line/halyard is worked along the row. All the rope is in very good condition but dirty. The ropes come out of the third bucket nicely cleaned and with no sign of saltwater stiffness.

When the running rigging was originally supplied each line had an eye splice at one end with the other end being whipped. I don't like this arrangement as it is not conducive to easily reversing the rope at regular intervals so that wear is more evenly spread. This year I have decided to cut the eye splices off and reverse all the running rigging.

Discarded eye splices.


During the afternoon I attend to the port aft grabrail. This was removed in while we were at Dartside quay in September last year. It needed to be re-sealed to stop a small leak that I noticed last winter. I didn't get round to replacing the teak plugs over the screw holes so I finally did so today.

I receive a reply from Rocna Anchors in New Zealand. They suggest that the Dutch importer will be able to supply me and I duly receive quote from Holland. Two small problems. One, they have run out of anchors and won't have any before we leave La Coruna. Two, they only accept payment by bank transfer. This would be fine if one was at home but it is a real pain while cruising. Looks like I'll have to find a Spanish bank to do the transfer. It would be so much easier if they took credit cards.

Scrubbing the deck.

Up early to get on with things as have lost a few days over Easter.

The first job is to wash off the dirt accumulated over winter and give the deck a good scrub to remove dirt and green mould. I use a very soft dish scourer with a bucket of water to which 3 capfuls of household bleach has been added. This is usually sufficient to kill the green mould which accumulates very quickly here.

It takes most of the day to do the deck but the job is finished and the teak looks much better. The caulking has deteriorated in one or two places and will need some touching up. Since the boat was built the teak has not received much attention. I will lightly sand it all back to a smoother finish. The deck will be left to turn naturally silver while the gunwhale caps, handrails and cockpit teak will be finished with eucalyptus oil and wax.

I have been thinking about getting a larger anchor for some time as I expect to be doing a lot more anchoring this year. I have chosen a new generation
Rocna anchor which is made in New Zealand and sent them an E-mail to clarify delivery arrangements.

A new Windex arrives from the UK to replace the one that fell off somewhere in the Bay of Biscay. Not bad as they sent it the day before Easter. Thanks
Atlantic Spars.

Lunch near Cabo Finisterra

A few days ago Mariam invited me to sunday lunch. Carmen and her family are also invited and they kindly offer me a lift. We are to meet some other cars and, I thought, follow Mariam and her husband Manuel to their house.

In the event we set off across Galicia towards Cabo Finisterra. A very scenic drive but quite a long way. Our destination is Playa de Estorde and a restaurant of the same name.

The restaurant is right on a beautiful beach with a children's playground next door. We enjoy a long relaxed meal with paella as the main course. Conversation throughout is very animated and while I can pick up a lot more than I would have a few months ago most of the detail escapes me.

Overview


Closer view


At lunch. From left around the table: Manuel, Mariam, Carmen, Genocho, self, Beatriz, Pedro, Jose, Cinta, Pilar, and Alfredo.


View out the restaurant window.


View towards Cabo Finisterra.


After lunch we drove round to Cabo Finisterra and spent an hour visiting the newly refurbished site.
I was there last October.
Photos here.