Portugal
To Coimbra
30/07/07 19:49
The town of Coimbra is about an hour by train inland from Figueira da Foz. The university there is one of the oldest in Europe (1200ish) and was said to be worth a visit and I had been told about a new footbridge built there last year which was said to be quite stunning.
There are two stations in Coimbra and my train stopped at the second which is some distance from the town centre. My walk into town was not encouraging with the outskirts of Coimbra being quite horrible. Once into the old town things became more interesting.
Most of Coimbra is on the south bank of the river (which drains to the sea at Figueira da Foz). Along this river bank are a series of public gardens in three phases. The first two are mature with large trees and plenty of shade. The third phase is very recent, modern in design, but with few trees. Where this phase ends a new pedestrian bridge,named Ponte Pedonal Pedro E Inés, has been built across the river. It was opened by the president of Portugal in November 2006 and was designed by Cecil Balmond, a British architect, and funded by EU grants.
At present the bridge seems to go from nowhere to nowhere although there are building sites near each end and in future it may link two new residential developments.
The bridge however is something completely different and is quite stunning.
From upstream or downstream it just looks like a new modern bridge.
But as one approaches things are not what they seem. The bridge has a curve in the middle.
The sides comprise panels of pastel coloured polycarbonate (I think) set at shallow angles from each other.
Access is via stairs or ramp both paved with slate.
Looking up at the university from the bridge.
The two halves are offset by one bridge width in the centre as though construction started from each bank without checking that the structures would meet in the middle and a kink added later to join the two together. The kink was of course all part of the design.
The hand rails zig-zag all the way across creating a series of bays where people naturally lean.
The panels catch the sun by day and are illuminated at night by recessed lighting at the edge of the footway.
At the centre where the two spans meet the bridge is double its normal width.
This is also the highest point.
Panels angled to catch light in a variety of ways.
Box section structure and the centre offset.
From downstream the curve starts to disappear.
Slate fountain in the new gardens nearby.
And the old style gardens with shady canopy.
University courtyard, previously a royal palace, on a high point overlooking the river.
View down river from the university. Ponte Pedonal Pedro E Inés is just visible in the foreground. The larger structure is a road bridge.
A more modern design for the university library...
...I liked these lights.
This lovely building is the Faculdade de Farmacia.
One ot the old gates in the city wall with roadway leading up to the university.
There are two stations in Coimbra and my train stopped at the second which is some distance from the town centre. My walk into town was not encouraging with the outskirts of Coimbra being quite horrible. Once into the old town things became more interesting.
Most of Coimbra is on the south bank of the river (which drains to the sea at Figueira da Foz). Along this river bank are a series of public gardens in three phases. The first two are mature with large trees and plenty of shade. The third phase is very recent, modern in design, but with few trees. Where this phase ends a new pedestrian bridge,named Ponte Pedonal Pedro E Inés, has been built across the river. It was opened by the president of Portugal in November 2006 and was designed by Cecil Balmond, a British architect, and funded by EU grants.
At present the bridge seems to go from nowhere to nowhere although there are building sites near each end and in future it may link two new residential developments.
The bridge however is something completely different and is quite stunning.
From upstream or downstream it just looks like a new modern bridge.
But as one approaches things are not what they seem. The bridge has a curve in the middle.
The sides comprise panels of pastel coloured polycarbonate (I think) set at shallow angles from each other.
Access is via stairs or ramp both paved with slate.
Looking up at the university from the bridge.
The two halves are offset by one bridge width in the centre as though construction started from each bank without checking that the structures would meet in the middle and a kink added later to join the two together. The kink was of course all part of the design.
The hand rails zig-zag all the way across creating a series of bays where people naturally lean.
The panels catch the sun by day and are illuminated at night by recessed lighting at the edge of the footway.
At the centre where the two spans meet the bridge is double its normal width.
This is also the highest point.
Panels angled to catch light in a variety of ways.
Box section structure and the centre offset.
From downstream the curve starts to disappear.
Slate fountain in the new gardens nearby.
And the old style gardens with shady canopy.
University courtyard, previously a royal palace, on a high point overlooking the river.
View down river from the university. Ponte Pedonal Pedro E Inés is just visible in the foreground. The larger structure is a road bridge.
A more modern design for the university library...
...I liked these lights.
This lovely building is the Faculdade de Farmacia.
One ot the old gates in the city wall with roadway leading up to the university.
Porto to Figueira da Foz
29/07/07 18:48
Up early to catch the tide. We left the berth at 05:30 with the ebb already well underway. This made for a fast passage down river.
Between the lower motorway bridge and the first channel buoy the lowest depth noted was 2.9m. We cleared the entrance at 06:06 and there the lowest depth noted was 7.9 metres.
It remains to be seen how the new river entrance will look but in settled conditions at high tide access to Porto seems pretty straightforward. Kiriwina is only 28ft LOA but I visted as crew on a 54ft yacht 3 years ago also without difficulty.
There was very little wind and we motorsailed most of the way arriving off Figueira da Foz at 17:45. We berthed alongside the reception barge at 18:00 and were all fast in our allocated berth by 18:30.
I was not impressed with this marina three years ago. It was badly maintained and the compulsory arrival mooring alongside a barge was not even fitted with cleats. Nothing had changed and the mooring cost was an eyewatering €21.45 per day. These people are taking the mickey. They know the marina is in poor condition but reckon they can get away with these sort of costs as there is not a lot of choice on this part of the coast.
Daily run 58.4 miles (GPS 64.85) a combination of help from the current and, I suspec, the log under reading.
River Douro entrance from upstream.
Our first sight of dolphins since leaving the Ria Camarinas.
Between the lower motorway bridge and the first channel buoy the lowest depth noted was 2.9m. We cleared the entrance at 06:06 and there the lowest depth noted was 7.9 metres.
It remains to be seen how the new river entrance will look but in settled conditions at high tide access to Porto seems pretty straightforward. Kiriwina is only 28ft LOA but I visted as crew on a 54ft yacht 3 years ago also without difficulty.
There was very little wind and we motorsailed most of the way arriving off Figueira da Foz at 17:45. We berthed alongside the reception barge at 18:00 and were all fast in our allocated berth by 18:30.
I was not impressed with this marina three years ago. It was badly maintained and the compulsory arrival mooring alongside a barge was not even fitted with cleats. Nothing had changed and the mooring cost was an eyewatering €21.45 per day. These people are taking the mickey. They know the marina is in poor condition but reckon they can get away with these sort of costs as there is not a lot of choice on this part of the coast.
Daily run 58.4 miles (GPS 64.85) a combination of help from the current and, I suspec, the log under reading.
River Douro entrance from upstream.
Our first sight of dolphins since leaving the Ria Camarinas.
Povoa de Varzim to Porto
28/06/07 19:46
The marina at Pova de Varzim is very reasonably priced and the staff are very helpful but I found the town itself less compelling.
Perhaps my opinion was influenced by my first exposure to a little scam operated in some Portuguese restaurants. Prior to the ordered dishes arriving selection of nibblies are bought to the table. If one is tempted, which I was not, the bill can increase substantially. In my case around 30% until I pointed out that I hadn't asked for nor eaten the items in question and the bill was reduced.
The new Porto metro extends as far as Povoa de Varzim so it's a good place to stop and visit Porto but I wanted to take my boat into Porto.
At 10:00 we cleared Povoa marina and motor sailed south in light winds arriving off the river Douro entrance at 13:00. I was unable to locate the charted leads so I simply watched a fishing boat enter and followed. New breakwaters are being constructed at the entrance but with just an hour until high water we had in excess of 8m depth.
New southern breakwater.
New northern breakwater with the old one behind.
Looking back out to sea.
River Douro - Approaching the lower motorway bridge
The water shallows between the last of the entrance channel buoys and this bridge.
Once we were past the bridge the wind began to increase and was gusting 18 knots up river by the time we reached Cais do Etiva.
There was plenty of help to take our lines and by 14:10 we were all fast at the upriver end of Cais do Etiva. Long warps and a fender board are essential on this berth where the river runs fast and the rise and fall is at least two metres on a very high quay. There are ladders set into the quay wall.
It took a bit of experimenting to get the moorings adjusted. I found that tying the fender board directly onto the fenders worked best. Matters were complicated by an ebbing tide pushing the boat downstream but gusting winds pushed her upstream. Towards evening the wind died and Kiriwina sat comfortably alongside.
Mooring is free but reporting is still required at the Brigada Fiscal office overlooking the quay.
Fender board arrangement.
Quay height necessitated tying off the Superwind to avoid blade damage. Wake from passing traffic can cause unexpected movement when alongside.
Fast tidal ebb around the quay.
Kiriwina alongside at about half tide with the south bank Port warehouses behind.
Cais do Etiva, with Kiriwina alongside, viewed from the south bank of the River Douro. I was thrilled to have my boat moored in this magificent setting.
A closer view of traditional Port boats.
Moonrise over the observatory and river Douro at Porto.
As darkness falls the Port signs light up.
River Douro at Porto - South bank at night.
Perhaps my opinion was influenced by my first exposure to a little scam operated in some Portuguese restaurants. Prior to the ordered dishes arriving selection of nibblies are bought to the table. If one is tempted, which I was not, the bill can increase substantially. In my case around 30% until I pointed out that I hadn't asked for nor eaten the items in question and the bill was reduced.
The new Porto metro extends as far as Povoa de Varzim so it's a good place to stop and visit Porto but I wanted to take my boat into Porto.
At 10:00 we cleared Povoa marina and motor sailed south in light winds arriving off the river Douro entrance at 13:00. I was unable to locate the charted leads so I simply watched a fishing boat enter and followed. New breakwaters are being constructed at the entrance but with just an hour until high water we had in excess of 8m depth.
New southern breakwater.
New northern breakwater with the old one behind.
Looking back out to sea.
River Douro - Approaching the lower motorway bridge
The water shallows between the last of the entrance channel buoys and this bridge.
Once we were past the bridge the wind began to increase and was gusting 18 knots up river by the time we reached Cais do Etiva.
There was plenty of help to take our lines and by 14:10 we were all fast at the upriver end of Cais do Etiva. Long warps and a fender board are essential on this berth where the river runs fast and the rise and fall is at least two metres on a very high quay. There are ladders set into the quay wall.
It took a bit of experimenting to get the moorings adjusted. I found that tying the fender board directly onto the fenders worked best. Matters were complicated by an ebbing tide pushing the boat downstream but gusting winds pushed her upstream. Towards evening the wind died and Kiriwina sat comfortably alongside.
Mooring is free but reporting is still required at the Brigada Fiscal office overlooking the quay.
Fender board arrangement.
Quay height necessitated tying off the Superwind to avoid blade damage. Wake from passing traffic can cause unexpected movement when alongside.
Fast tidal ebb around the quay.
Kiriwina alongside at about half tide with the south bank Port warehouses behind.
Cais do Etiva, with Kiriwina alongside, viewed from the south bank of the River Douro. I was thrilled to have my boat moored in this magificent setting.
A closer view of traditional Port boats.
Moonrise over the observatory and river Douro at Porto.
As darkness falls the Port signs light up.
River Douro at Porto - South bank at night.
Viana do Castello to Povoa de Varzim
26/06/07 13:20
Well that was fun. We cleared Viana harbour at 11:40 and were snug in our berth at Povoa de Varzim by 13:25.
The forecast was for northerly winds of 15 knots (F7). What we got was up to 30 knots (F7). Leaving Viana we had one reef in the main and full yankee which was OK but as the wind increased we went to one third then no yankee.
With the wind virtually dead astern and a 2m swell we were almost surfing at times and made good speeds up to 6.1 knots. Dame Kiri (our Aries) steered the whole way and coped admirably. Our speed was enhanced by a southerly current of about 1.5 knots.
Approaching Povoa de Varzim the winds were F7 and while there was no problem with the harbour entrance I made a complete hash of getting into my allocated upwind berth. I got the speed wrong going in and was blown off line. It then proved impossible to turn the boat and try again so I slotted into a downwind berth with the throttle almost full astern. It's times like these when one can see why current production Vancouver 28's have been supplied with 30hp engines rather than the 20 we have.
Day's run 16.4 miles. Marina cost €8.99 per day.
The forecast was for northerly winds of 15 knots (F7). What we got was up to 30 knots (F7). Leaving Viana we had one reef in the main and full yankee which was OK but as the wind increased we went to one third then no yankee.
With the wind virtually dead astern and a 2m swell we were almost surfing at times and made good speeds up to 6.1 knots. Dame Kiri (our Aries) steered the whole way and coped admirably. Our speed was enhanced by a southerly current of about 1.5 knots.
Approaching Povoa de Varzim the winds were F7 and while there was no problem with the harbour entrance I made a complete hash of getting into my allocated upwind berth. I got the speed wrong going in and was blown off line. It then proved impossible to turn the boat and try again so I slotted into a downwind berth with the throttle almost full astern. It's times like these when one can see why current production Vancouver 28's have been supplied with 30hp engines rather than the 20 we have.
Day's run 16.4 miles. Marina cost €8.99 per day.
To Porto
24/06/07 13:18
With a SW element in the forecast we wouldn't be sailing south today. I decided to catch the train down to Porto. I plan to call there later in the week and it was an opportunity to check berthing arrangements.
The journey down took about one and a half hours through very green countryside and small towns. We also passed very slowly over the Eiffel bridge.
An imposing welcome. This is the scene that greets the traveller arriving in the booking hall of Porto's Sao Bento station. Wow! All four walls feature beautiful tilework depiciting a variety of historical scenes.
It was about a 15 minute walk downhill to the north bank of the Douro river. Some typical waterfront buildings.
One of many narrow streets leading uphill away from the river.
Porto is built on both steep sided banks of the river Douro. It is a city of bridges of which this one, the "Louis 1" bridge is probably the most spectacular. seen here from the north bank with the observatory above.
I took a boat tour which lasts about 45 minutes and from which one could see the six major bridges spanning the Douro at Porto. The tour goes as far as the river mouth downstream and about 1.5 kilometres upstream. This is the Louis 1 bridge seen from upstream.
The old railway bridge viewed from upstream with a modern road bridge beyond. Use the term old because this one appeared not to be in use and there is a more modern railway bridge further upstream.
The Louis 1 bridge viewed from the observatory. The upper deck carries Metro do Porto trains and pedestrians while the lower deck is for road traffic and pedestrians.
Port wine warehouses on the south bank viewed from a riverboat.
A view west towards the sea from the observatory. In the distance is a fairly recent motorway bridge. The cluster of boats on the north quay includes a visiting Portuguese navy patrol boat, a gaggle of tour boats and squeezed onto the quay just ahead of the warship are two small visiting yachts.
This is where I hope to come with Kiriwina in a few days. There are no facilitis at all for yachts and one just has to find a space on the quay. The ebb tide can reach speeds of 5-6 knots and even more if the river flow is swollen by rain.
The small crafted moored alongside on the south bank are traditional sailing boats used to ferry Port wine in barrels down the river. They are now ceremonial and shortly after this photo was taken they were to take part in a race.
Porto has a brand spanking new Metro system. It's very impressive with rolling stock supplied by the Canadian company Bombardier.
I had to smile at this bit of low tech amongst all the high tech and wonder if somebody really did forget that train stations need buffers.
The journey down took about one and a half hours through very green countryside and small towns. We also passed very slowly over the Eiffel bridge.
An imposing welcome. This is the scene that greets the traveller arriving in the booking hall of Porto's Sao Bento station. Wow! All four walls feature beautiful tilework depiciting a variety of historical scenes.
It was about a 15 minute walk downhill to the north bank of the Douro river. Some typical waterfront buildings.
One of many narrow streets leading uphill away from the river.
Porto is built on both steep sided banks of the river Douro. It is a city of bridges of which this one, the "Louis 1" bridge is probably the most spectacular. seen here from the north bank with the observatory above.
I took a boat tour which lasts about 45 minutes and from which one could see the six major bridges spanning the Douro at Porto. The tour goes as far as the river mouth downstream and about 1.5 kilometres upstream. This is the Louis 1 bridge seen from upstream.
The old railway bridge viewed from upstream with a modern road bridge beyond. Use the term old because this one appeared not to be in use and there is a more modern railway bridge further upstream.
The Louis 1 bridge viewed from the observatory. The upper deck carries Metro do Porto trains and pedestrians while the lower deck is for road traffic and pedestrians.
Port wine warehouses on the south bank viewed from a riverboat.
A view west towards the sea from the observatory. In the distance is a fairly recent motorway bridge. The cluster of boats on the north quay includes a visiting Portuguese navy patrol boat, a gaggle of tour boats and squeezed onto the quay just ahead of the warship are two small visiting yachts.
This is where I hope to come with Kiriwina in a few days. There are no facilitis at all for yachts and one just has to find a space on the quay. The ebb tide can reach speeds of 5-6 knots and even more if the river flow is swollen by rain.
The small crafted moored alongside on the south bank are traditional sailing boats used to ferry Port wine in barrels down the river. They are now ceremonial and shortly after this photo was taken they were to take part in a race.
Porto has a brand spanking new Metro system. It's very impressive with rolling stock supplied by the Canadian company Bombardier.
I had to smile at this bit of low tech amongst all the high tech and wonder if somebody really did forget that train stations need buffers.
Viana do Castelo - A walk around.
23/06/07 13:15
The more one looks around the town the more attractive it becomes. The detailing on many buildings is impressive.
This is a school that it is situated on the main street. A lovely well kept building.
Each end of the building has a tiled scene of local significance and a little statue of a pupil with half the alphabet set into the plinth. This picture shows the schoolboy...
and this one the schoolgirl.
The imposing entrance to the recently restored funicular railway linking Viana do Castelo to the church of Santa Luzia which can just be seen at top left.
Detailed tilework, showing the church of Santa Luzia, from the lower funicular station interior.
More tiles.
Looking down at the old town from the funicular railway. This railway, dating from early last century, has been completely restored. The track, two carriages and control systems are completely new but the upper and lower terminals retain much of their period charm.
The church of Santa Luzia. This was the building visible well out to sea. The views from here are stunning and it is a very popular spot. I was there on a saturday afternoon along with at least 30 coach loads of other visitors.
Looking down at the Eiffel bridge with the marina and swing bridge to the right. The tall unsympathetic building, at far right, is, according to the marina manager, to be demolished very soon.
The Eiffel bridge is a wonderfully complex meccano type road/rail bridge so named because its constuctors also built the Eiffel tower. The bridge has been closed to road traffic for two years for renovation but is due to open in October 2007.
Viana do Castelo harbour entrance looking south.
Later in the evening while strolling around a modern shopping complex tucked discreetly away behind the railway station I noticed this model railway. It is mounted about 3 feet below the third floor ceiling and circles a large food hall before disappearing into a shop, then emerging to follow a row of shops before returning to complete the circuit. Quite why it was there was unclear but I liked it.
Viana do Castelo Station
This is a school that it is situated on the main street. A lovely well kept building.
Each end of the building has a tiled scene of local significance and a little statue of a pupil with half the alphabet set into the plinth. This picture shows the schoolboy...
and this one the schoolgirl.
The imposing entrance to the recently restored funicular railway linking Viana do Castelo to the church of Santa Luzia which can just be seen at top left.
Detailed tilework, showing the church of Santa Luzia, from the lower funicular station interior.
More tiles.
Looking down at the old town from the funicular railway. This railway, dating from early last century, has been completely restored. The track, two carriages and control systems are completely new but the upper and lower terminals retain much of their period charm.
The church of Santa Luzia. This was the building visible well out to sea. The views from here are stunning and it is a very popular spot. I was there on a saturday afternoon along with at least 30 coach loads of other visitors.
Looking down at the Eiffel bridge with the marina and swing bridge to the right. The tall unsympathetic building, at far right, is, according to the marina manager, to be demolished very soon.
The Eiffel bridge is a wonderfully complex meccano type road/rail bridge so named because its constuctors also built the Eiffel tower. The bridge has been closed to road traffic for two years for renovation but is due to open in October 2007.
Viana do Castelo harbour entrance looking south.
Later in the evening while strolling around a modern shopping complex tucked discreetly away behind the railway station I noticed this model railway. It is mounted about 3 feet below the third floor ceiling and circles a large food hall before disappearing into a shop, then emerging to follow a row of shops before returning to complete the circuit. Quite why it was there was unclear but I liked it.
Viana do Castelo Station
Viana do Castelo - Hospital Ship "Gil Eannes"
23/06/07 11:59
This was a real trip down memory lane. When I first went to sea I sailed on several ships of this vintage.
The "Gil Eannes" was designed and built in Viana do Castelo in 1955 as a hospital/supply ship for the Portuguese fishing fleet operating on the grand banks and off the coast of Greenland.
She was a very versatile ship. Refrigerated cargo holds to take bait outwards and frozen catch back as well as general stores and supplies outwards, a strengthened hull for ice navigation, a dental surgery, fully equipped operating theatres, X-Ray room, a patient lift between theatres and wards, extensive accommodation for doctors, nurses and patients in addition to her regular crew and some serious towing kit which enabled here to act as an ocean going tug if required.
She made her last trip to the fishing grounds in 1973 and after a trip to Brazil was laid up in Lisbon. In 1997 she was saved from the scrapyard by the "Gil Eannes Foundation" and returned to Viana do Castello for restoration. She opened to the public in 1998.
Much of her original equipment remains on board so during the tour one sees not only period navigation and engineering equipment but that of catering, medical/surgery, and dentistry.
Bridge and number two of 4 hatches. She is a very attractive looking ship with lovely lines and curves. Think 1950's cars. There are numerous examples of plating whose sole purpose is to make the ship look good.
Foredeck number two cargo hatch and with 2 1/2" wooden decking finally showing its age after more than 50 years.
Aft boat deck and number three hatch.
The beautiful funnel. It did not need to look like this but it looks a lot better than just a collection of exhaust pipes.
The bakery...
....and the galley
Engine room switch panel.
One of two Fairbanks Morse main diesel engines.
Engine room sounding board. Every ship has one of these to record the levels of fuel and ballast tanks.
The point of the exercise. Atlantic Cod. The one in the photo weighed 70kg. Of course there are none left now. The Grand Banks were fished beyond the point of sustainability.
North Atlantic currents in June.
"Gil Eames" returning to Viana do Castelo in 1997....
....and as she looks today.
The "Gil Eannes" was designed and built in Viana do Castelo in 1955 as a hospital/supply ship for the Portuguese fishing fleet operating on the grand banks and off the coast of Greenland.
She was a very versatile ship. Refrigerated cargo holds to take bait outwards and frozen catch back as well as general stores and supplies outwards, a strengthened hull for ice navigation, a dental surgery, fully equipped operating theatres, X-Ray room, a patient lift between theatres and wards, extensive accommodation for doctors, nurses and patients in addition to her regular crew and some serious towing kit which enabled here to act as an ocean going tug if required.
She made her last trip to the fishing grounds in 1973 and after a trip to Brazil was laid up in Lisbon. In 1997 she was saved from the scrapyard by the "Gil Eannes Foundation" and returned to Viana do Castello for restoration. She opened to the public in 1998.
Much of her original equipment remains on board so during the tour one sees not only period navigation and engineering equipment but that of catering, medical/surgery, and dentistry.
Bridge and number two of 4 hatches. She is a very attractive looking ship with lovely lines and curves. Think 1950's cars. There are numerous examples of plating whose sole purpose is to make the ship look good.
Foredeck number two cargo hatch and with 2 1/2" wooden decking finally showing its age after more than 50 years.
Aft boat deck and number three hatch.
The beautiful funnel. It did not need to look like this but it looks a lot better than just a collection of exhaust pipes.
The bakery...
....and the galley
Engine room switch panel.
One of two Fairbanks Morse main diesel engines.
Engine room sounding board. Every ship has one of these to record the levels of fuel and ballast tanks.
The point of the exercise. Atlantic Cod. The one in the photo weighed 70kg. Of course there are none left now. The Grand Banks were fished beyond the point of sustainability.
North Atlantic currents in June.
"Gil Eames" returning to Viana do Castelo in 1997....
....and as she looks today.
Viana Do Castelo
22/06/07 15:17
While returning to the boat this morning after a shower I noticed "Northern Sky" moored on the layby berth. I had last seen Gerry and Isolde in Villagarcia back in May.
It was good to see them again. They had been delayed in Villagarcia while awaiting delivery of some custom fittings and had sailed directly from Villagarcia to Viana do Castelo.
They were sailing in a few hours but we had time for a quick coffee and a visit to a hardware store to fop up on gas. Gerry ran into the gas fittings compatibility problem. His boat is fitted with Calor fittings and bottles but the store only had Camping Gaz. The bottles and plumbing are not compatible but Gerry bought two bottles and would sort the plumbing out later.
Gerry & Isolde
"Northern Sky" on her way south.
My gas levels were quite low and I took the chance to aquire two full bottles (cost €9 per 4.3 kg bottle). I had replaced one in la Coruna but in the bustle of a busy shop I had been supplied with a bottle with only marginally more gas than my empty one. Our consumption of gas on Kiriwina is quite low and I had forgotten how heavy a full bottle is. A set of spring scales are now on the shopping list to verify future purchases.
Vina do Castelo is a very pretty little town. It is very obvious that we are in a different country. In Spain the modern built envirionment was often a bit of a mess with little sympathy shown to heritage buildings. It seems different here. The older town is largely intact and newer buildings are generally sympathetic. Their use of creative tiling is impressive.
Leaving the marina one walks into town though a canopied garden paralleling the river.
Buildings in the old quarter are mostly low rise and traffic flow is restricted and unobtrussive.
I visited the friday market and, unusually, bought a few things. Beach towels the size of a small field for €7.50, cotton t-shirts without anything written on them for €3.00 and a pair of loafers for €25.
It was good to see them again. They had been delayed in Villagarcia while awaiting delivery of some custom fittings and had sailed directly from Villagarcia to Viana do Castelo.
They were sailing in a few hours but we had time for a quick coffee and a visit to a hardware store to fop up on gas. Gerry ran into the gas fittings compatibility problem. His boat is fitted with Calor fittings and bottles but the store only had Camping Gaz. The bottles and plumbing are not compatible but Gerry bought two bottles and would sort the plumbing out later.
Gerry & Isolde
"Northern Sky" on her way south.
My gas levels were quite low and I took the chance to aquire two full bottles (cost €9 per 4.3 kg bottle). I had replaced one in la Coruna but in the bustle of a busy shop I had been supplied with a bottle with only marginally more gas than my empty one. Our consumption of gas on Kiriwina is quite low and I had forgotten how heavy a full bottle is. A set of spring scales are now on the shopping list to verify future purchases.
Vina do Castelo is a very pretty little town. It is very obvious that we are in a different country. In Spain the modern built envirionment was often a bit of a mess with little sympathy shown to heritage buildings. It seems different here. The older town is largely intact and newer buildings are generally sympathetic. Their use of creative tiling is impressive.
Leaving the marina one walks into town though a canopied garden paralleling the river.
Buildings in the old quarter are mostly low rise and traffic flow is restricted and unobtrussive.
I visited the friday market and, unusually, bought a few things. Beach towels the size of a small field for €7.50, cotton t-shirts without anything written on them for €3.00 and a pair of loafers for €25.
Baiona to Viana do Castelo
21/06/07 15:16
An early start saw us clear Baiona marina at 08:30. The wind was westerly F3 and we motored into it until 09:30, when clear of the shoals off Cabo Silleiro, we could turn southwards and start sailing.
The wind started to increase and I put one reef in the main at 17 knots. Thereafter it slowly weakened and backed to the NW. By 13:30 boat speed was less than 2 knots and wind speed was around 6-7 knots. I started the engine and we motorsailed the rest of the way arriving off Viana de Castelo at 17:00.
There is a church dating from around 1906 overlooking the town and as we motored up the river I noticed a lovely looking ship which looked as though it was built during the 1950's.
Approaches to Viana do Castelo
Ship with Church in the background looking north from river approach.
As we aproached the marina entrance at 17:30 a pedestrian foorbridge blocking the entrance began to swing open and as we entered we were directed to our berth and helped with mooring by the marina staff.
We were all fast by 17:45. Marina Cost €15.40 daily plus €1.25 for showers. Day's run 32 miles.
The wind started to increase and I put one reef in the main at 17 knots. Thereafter it slowly weakened and backed to the NW. By 13:30 boat speed was less than 2 knots and wind speed was around 6-7 knots. I started the engine and we motorsailed the rest of the way arriving off Viana de Castelo at 17:00.
There is a church dating from around 1906 overlooking the town and as we motored up the river I noticed a lovely looking ship which looked as though it was built during the 1950's.
Approaches to Viana do Castelo
Ship with Church in the background looking north from river approach.
As we aproached the marina entrance at 17:30 a pedestrian foorbridge blocking the entrance began to swing open and as we entered we were directed to our berth and helped with mooring by the marina staff.
We were all fast by 17:45. Marina Cost €15.40 daily plus €1.25 for showers. Day's run 32 miles.