Norderney to Borkum

At 10:10 we leave the berth at Norderney and are clear of the harbour at 10:30. The slow passage down harbour caused by my trying, and failing, to deploy the Aries servo-oar while the boat is underway. I should really do this before leaving the berth.

The wind is SW 3-4 and all sails are deployed with one reef in the main. This reef is shaken out shortly thereafter as the wind begins to drop. By 13:15 the wind has dropped to force 1-2 and the engine is started. At 14:00 it is flat calm.

Later it begins to rain and as we are proceeding up the channel towards Borkum Burkana Hafen pushing a strong ebb tide the rain has become a torrential downpour with gusting and variable winds.

We have a slow run in and do not reach Burkana hafen until almost 20:00. Berthing is quite difficult due to increasing wind, heavy rain and the fact that the bollards are of the large commercial type and are set back some distance from the quayside making them difficult to lasso.

I gratefully accept assistance from the skipper of a French yacht moored astern.


Days Run 44.3 miles (contrast with 27 miles run on northbound trip with fair tide.) 10 hrs.

Norderney

We are not going anywhere today but the large boat on the inside of the raft leaves early followed a few hours lafter by the dutch boat inside us. We are now the inside boat and the fender board has to be deployed against the mussll and barnacle covered dock pillars.

Not a good place to moor but it is OK in the calm weather.

Joseph from "Aurelia" comes over to introduce himself and invites me over for a drink. "Aurelia" is a Nicholson 32 which has spent most of it's life in Germany. Joseph and his German wife Ingrid have just bought "Aurelia" and are taking here to Cyprus where they now live. I spend a relaxing 2 hours aboard before they leave for Borkum.

I cycle into the centre of Norderney for the afternoon have lunch and buy some food for the evening meal on board.

"Kiriwina" at Norderney




Cuxhaven to Norderney

The ebb tide dictates our start time and we leave our berth at 05:00. There is no wind and the sea is flat calm. We are motoring with a full ebb under us and make good time.

At 07:00 we pass Elbe 11 buoy. We are doing over 5 knots with the engine running below cruising revs. At 10:00 we pass the VQ buoy and have logged 25 miles since Cuxhaven. Visibility is deteriorating and is now down to around 1.5 miles. I put the Radar on standby.

By 11:30 the fog has thickened and visibility is down to under 1 mile. I can hear foghorns and the radar, now operational, indicates numerous large ships in the vicinity. At 12:00 we are in thick fog with visibilty less than 0.5 miles. A large container ship about half a mile away on a safe course appears for a few minutes before disappearing into the fog. This is the first time the radar has been used in anger and it performs well.

At 15:40 the Yankee is deployed to take advantage of the increasing wind. The fog is lifting and visibility has improved to about 2 miles.

By the time we are off Norderney lighthouse at 16:00 the fog has lifted completely.

We enter Norderney harbour around 18:00. It is very full and there are no berths in
Norderney Sportboothafen. At 18:20 we are all fast alongside the harbour wall 3rd out in a raft of 4.

Marina Cost €10.05 per night incl shower.
Daily Run: 66.2 miles 13.8 hours.


Cuxhaven

I am in no particular hurry and decide to have a day off to take a look around Cuxhaven.

It is quite a nice little town with two marinas and a busy ferry port. There is a paved area next to our marina which seems to be some sort of parking area for motor homes. Adjacent to this is a berth for one of the passenger ships serving Helgoland. I'm tempted to make this trip but decide against it and cycle into the centre of Cuxhaven instead.

I have a coffee and find an internet cafe to check e-mail. There is nothing particularly exciting about the town but I spend an enjoyable couple of hours walking around. Later there is a small open air market selling interesting culinary goodies.

Tomorrow will be a dawn start so I eat on board and have an early night.

Duckerswisch Siding Kiel Canal to Cuxhaven

Today's passage will be governed by the timing of the Elbe ebb tide. There is no point being in the Elbe much before 15:00 so I am able to have a bit of a lay-in.

We get underway at around 10:30 and moor at the Brunsbüttel Sportboot layby berth at around 12:30. It is a very hot day and I decide to walk into town, have some lunch and pick up some milk and fruit.

Back on board we leave the layby berth at 15:30, clear the canal via the south Alte Scheusen lock and by 16:30 along with a gaggle of other yachts join the sleigh ride on the Elbe to Cuxhaven.

I like this passage with the tide. It is quite exciting. Some boats try to sail but there really isn't much wind. We keep to the north side small boat channel only crossing to the south/western side a few buoys before Cuxhaven.

We have an uneventful trip and are berthed at Cuxhaven by around 19:00. This is the same marina we used on the northbound passage.

Days Run 22.4 miles Marina Cost €18.00 for 2 nights


Kiel to Duckerswisch Siding Kiel Canal

We clear BKYC by 07:15 and at 0745 are waiting off Holtenau locks for entry clearance.

Entrance to Holtenau Locks from the Keiler Fjord



By 08:25 we are secure alongside the north wall of the large southern lock. The fenders are soft timber at the waterline and again my fenders keep popping out.

I have to nip ashore to the lockmasters office to pay the €12 transit fee. At 08:45 we clear the lock and proceed along the Kiel canal.

A pretty uneventful passage with only light traffic. The only real excitement being a couple of oldish looking eastern bloc warships, belching volumes of smoke, which pass us near Rendsburg. I think they are Estonian but am unable to verify this.

Most likely an ex USSR Estonian naval vessel.



It would probably be possible to make Brunsbüttel today but I decide to overnight at Dückerswisch siding. This turns out to be a sheltered inlet just off the canal with a series of poles for mooring and a little beach tucked into the corner.

I have great fun mooring but fortunately there is little wind and we end up moored with a single bow line to one pole and two stern lines out to separate poles. We are all fast by 16:45 and by about 18:00 there are 5 yachts moored in the siding. It is quiet apart from some noisy families on the beach but there is no wash from passing ships.

Day's run 42.1 miles Passage time: 9hrs 30min



Kiel 2 Days

Sunday 23rd July 2006

On the way north we spent only one night in Kiel so I decide to spend some time here and have a better look around.

The Brompton is deployed and I cycle south into Kiel town centre. It's quite a nice ride on quiet roads and cycle paths.

There is a small ferry which crosses the Kiel canal free of charge just west of
Holtenau locks. The path then continues south, mostly along the western side of Kieler Fjord. It passes a large naval base which is home port to the sail training ship Gorch Fock.

Kiel is a biggish town of around 235,000 people and is situated at the southern end of Kieler Fjord. It was a lovely summer day with lot's of people enjoying a day out. I liked the feel of the place.

Rather than cycle back I decided to catch a ferry back. This excellent service run by
SFK is a wonderful way to see the Fjord and get about. I caught a ferry from the central station to Laboe on the north eastern side . I wanted to visit the U-Boat memorial and U995. The memorial is housed in a somewhat brutalist tower and has evolved from a U-Boat memorial to more of a memorial to mariners of all nations who were lost at sea serving their countries.

My photos of U995 are
here.

Return to by ferry to Friedrichsort which is the nearest ferry stop to BKYC

Monday 24th July 2006

Maintenance day today. Take the ferry into Kiel to purchase some pieces from chandler A.W Niemeyer.

Return about noon and ride into Friedrichsort to top up on domestic stores then spend the afternoon pottering about the boat.

A section of deck seam has opened up near the port midships cleat is caulked. I notice
cracked gelcoat around the port side of the mast step. There appears to be a small void behind the gelcoat. Hope it is nothing serious and decide to keep a close eye on it.

I cut off the splice on #2 genoa halyard and replace the snap shackle using a bowline. I don't like this type of splice as it seems to me that they prevent the halyard from being end-for ended each year to even out wear and tear.

Last winter I had a ghosting genoa made which was fitted with Schraeder self furling gear. This unit has a number of minor problems, one of which is the the circlips supplied with it are flat making deployment a fingernail breaking exercise every time. I replace these circlips with raised end types purchased from A.W. Niemayer. These are much better.

An ability to horizontally deploy fenders quickly is essential in this part of the world. I prepare enough 8m lines which can be rove through the bottom of each fender allowing them to be secured horizontally,

The starboard navigation light bulb failed on the way down from Denmark and is replaced. Fresh water is topped up and we are ready to go.

Spend a quiet evening on board ready for an early start tomorrow.

Sonderborg Sound to Kiel

Slept in somewhat and did not get underway until 10:45. Proceeded under motor and main, clearing Sonderborg bridge at 12:10.

Looking south towards Sonderborg Castle.



A lovely day but with variable winds. We make pretty good progress sailing under main and ghosting genoa until about an hour past Schleimunde lighthouse at 17:20 when the wind dies and we resume motoring. During the afternoon we passed another Vancouver 28 "Little Dorrit" heading north.

I decide not to go all the way into Kiel and berth instead at the
British Kiel Yacht Club which is very convenient for the canal entrance.

We arrive in fading daylight and berth in one of the large "boxes" at the pierhead. These are large boxes of around 40m which are entered between two steel poles. The idea being to put a line on each pole, nudge up to the dock and run two bow lines ashore. I can see why many boats in the Baltic have prominent rubbing strakes. To ensure gelcoat integrity longitudinal fenders and or plenty of crew are required.

It is a difficult operation to accomplish single handed and my line slips off the pole on the first approach. Fortunately conditions are benign and the skippers of "Solara" and "Helium" are on hand to take my bowlines. I first reverse back to the poles, make fast my two longest warps and then creep up to the dock where my bow lines are taken and secured. In the process I collect some muck from one of the poles amidships but it cleans off completely.

I gratefully accept the offer of a cold beer on board "Solara".



Kiel to Sonderborg

A relaxed start this morning. The weather has improved and it looks as though we shall be able to do some sailing.

We leave
Düsternbrook at 10:40 and by 11:00 the engine is off and we are sailing.

Our sail up to Denmark is uneventful and marked by a wide variety of yachts and larger sailing vessels. As we approach the island of Als the wind begins to drop and we motor sail for the last hour in the company of a large Dutch sailing barge.




As we enter Sønderborg yacht club the wind has become quite gusty and I make a bit of a hash of getting into our box mooring. All is well in the end and we are all fast by 19:00.

After a long walk ashore and around Sønderborg we find a restaurant, the OX-EN, and have dinner.

Days Run 38.6 miles

Rendsburg to Kiel

We don't plan to go too far today and have a bit of a lie-in. Eventually we leave Rendsburg yacht haven at around 12:00 passing the Nobiskrug shipyard, with three super yachts being fitted out, on the way down the Obereidersee.

Another fine day with little or no wind but we make good progress and arrive off
Holtenau locks at 15:40. We have to mill about for a while waiting for the lock but eventually clear into Kieler fjord at 16:25. There are marinas all around Kieler fjord and absent any particular recommendation we choose Düsternbrook which is quite close to the city centre.

It only took about 25 minutes to reach the marina which comprises a series of four concrete basins. We tried the second and wandered about inside looking for a green squared vacant berth. We failed to find one and after making a very tight turn we exited and eventually found a free box mooring in basin three where we were all fast by 17:10. As we approached the berth the wind came up quite strongly and it started to rain. Despite this our gelcoat remained intact.

Later in the evening we had a lovely dinner at a nearby waterside restaurant where we watched Italy win the world cup. The heavens opened and we had several hours of very heavy rain.

Days Run 20.2 miles. Marina Fee €9.00 Kiel Canal Fee €12.00. The rattling noise seems to be becoming more pronounced but as we can see nothing wrong internally there must be an external problem.

Cuxhaven to Rendsburg via Kiel Canal

Another reasonably early start sees us leave Cuxhaven at 08:30 to catch the flood tide. Constant motoring has run the fuel right down and a dip of the tank indicates we only have aboat 4 gallons left in the tank. This should be sufficient to get us to Brunsbüttel. It will have to be as the 20 litre emergency jerry can is empty.

We rocket up the Elbe under motor and at 10:45 are standing by off
Brunsbüttel locks awaiting entry to the Kiel canal. Inside the locks we lay alongside floating wooden fenders which take a bit of a bashing from large ships. Our fenders are not really effective in protecting the hull as they float clear when deployed. They need to have a length of chain attached of sufficient weight to keep the fender vertical when immersed in water.

At 11:30 we exit the locks into the canal and proceed straight to the Esso bunkering berth. We take a total of 151 litres @ €1.199 per litre. (131L in the fuel tank and 20L in the jerry can). The metallic noise from somewhere in the stern, first noticed some days ago, recurs while manoevring but does not seem to affect performance. We clear the bunker berth at 12:00 and resume our transit.

Russ with southbound passenger liner in the background not far from Rendsburg.


Our passage is uneventful apart from a reprimand issued by the water police for not taking our motor sailing cone down in between periods of motor sailing. A tad picky we thought, but when in Rome....We decide to spend the night at Rendsburg some 65k along the canal from Brunsbüttel. At 18:25 we enter the Obereidersee and are soon all fast, in a long box berth, at Rendsburg yacht haven.

A lovely spot and a very pretty little town. We have a quick shower and go ashore for dinner, pausing to check our e-mail at an internet cafe on the way.The weather is quite warm and we dine al fresco in the main square. Hosts Germany are playing Portugal for third place in the world cup and our meal is punctuated by regular roars from the restaurants around the square showing the game as Germany score three goals to win the game.

Daily Run 48 miles.Marina Cost €11.00 Shower €1.00
I am becoming a bit concerned about the metallic noise. A visual inspection of the engine room after mooring revealed nothing amiss. The propellor shaft was cool. Oil and coolant levels were OK and stern gland seepage was normal. (Occasional drop)

Norderney to Cuxhaven

Norderney to Cuxhaven is quite a long run and we wanted to time matters so that we would catch the flood tide into the Elbe.

One of our earliest starts on the trip. The recommended departure time eastbound is 1hr before HW Norderney and we left
Norderney Sportboothafen at 07:25. Once clear of the harbour we deployed full main and yankee. The wind soon dropped and at around 09:30 the main and yankee were stowed and the ghosting genoa deployed.

We made reasonable progress but by 12:00 the wind had died completely and we continued under motor alone on a flat calm sea.

By 16:00 we had reached Scharnhorn Riff and the start of the river Elbe buoyage system.

The tide was now flooding and we rushed up the Elbe at a cracking pace. The Elbe is divided into upstream and downstream lanes with small craft lanes outside the big ship lanes. Vessels can proceed either way in the small craft lanes.

It was quite a dramatic trip with lots of big ships and a number of yachts heading up river. We underestimated the tide as we slowed off Cuxhaven to ready fenders and lines and were carried upstream beyond the marina entrance. We had to motor back against the tide for about half a mile but all was OK and we were all fast at
Cuxhaven Yacht Haven by 19:35.

The linked photo shows the marina from the southside looking seaward. The entrance is actually quite tricky and several yachts arriving after us under estimated the tidal flow.

We had an excellent dinner in the yacht club restaurant at the marina. Mooring cost €9.00, free bicycle loan, showers €1.00 via swipecard (€10 refundable deposit). It was too late to go touring once we had finished dinner so Cuxhaven will have to wait until the return visit.

Daily Run 63.1 miles.

Norderney

In the morning Russ rented a bicycle, I deployed the Brompton and we set off into town.

Norderney is larger and visibly more prosperous than Borkum.

We parked the bikes in town and had along walk around the center and along the waterfront promenade. Russ was intrigued by the Wurst Bar concept so we tried one out. Very tasty it was too.

A German ship's cat which wandered up and down the yachts moored in
Norderney Sportboothafen.



Later we cycled towards the east of the island as far as the lighthouse and then back along the northern coast. Then we enjoyed a cold beer while watching the sun set over a flat calm sea. By then it was quite late but we found we an excellent Italian restaurant, Osteria Amici, that was still serving.
Sunset on the north coast of Norderney as a small coaster makes it's way westward.

Borkum to Norderney

Now back at sea we needed to pay attention to tides again. They can be quite strong around the Frisian Islands and it is best to avoid foul tides.

We left Borkum Yachthafen at 11:15 in fine sunny weather with virtually no wind. Prior to leaving Borkum I had purchased German chart 89 Juist bis Wangerooge.

After an uneventful trip heavy rain set in as we approched Norderney. The buoyed approach differed noticeably from that shown on my new chart so we just followed a local yacht who followed the buoys.

The rain became very heavy but had eased off by the time we entered Norderney harbour at 16.45. High speed ferries service Norderney and a careful lookout all round needs to be kept.

Once we got into the harbour mooring arrangements were not immediately apparent. We found out later that one simply seeks out those berths marked with a green square indicating availability. Red squares indicate the berth is occupied.

Eventually we found a berth and by 17:15 were all fast at
Norderney Sportboothafen.

We liked Norderney. A well run marina, good facilities and a nice feel about it. We had an excellent meal in the marina restaurant.

Daily Run 27 miles. Marina Fee €9.90 per day, Shower €1.50, Service Card Refundable €10


Oostmahorn to Borkum