Boat Maintenance - La Paloma

Calm and cool this morning but a strong northerly is due soon.

First job was to tackle the Jabsco toilet pump and see if my theoretical modifications will work.

Sadly these pumps, excellent functionally, are probably not strong enough for live aboard use. This is the third failure I have had to deal with on this 12 year old pump. Firstly in 2008 a cracked water inlet manifold was sealed and built up with epoxy. Then the same repair was needed in August 2010 with the water outlet manifold. So far so good.

This repair was a bit more complex. The top pump housing is attached to the base with 6 self tapping screws. These screw into six studs which are placed under stress with screw removal and tightening and general flexing of the pump when in use.

The joint had started leaking when in use indicating a bad seal. Assuming some gentle screw tightening would solve matters I felt something give. A stud had sheared and close inspection revealed two others with large cracks around the base.

What to do. I might be able to get a new pump in Montevideo but Buenos Aires is the more likely source.

I decided to try a modification. IMHO self tapping screws are evil things and their frequent use on fittings where maintenance requires removal is, IMHO, not helpful. I decided to drill the stud holes out to a diameter slightly larger than the stock screws which would be replaced by nuts and bolts. The studs would then serve a positioning function with the load being borne by the two pump housings.

A walk up to the local ferreteria produced galvanised bolts of the right size. I can source stainless ones later.



All went well and the joint seemed watertight. On reassembly the pump worked perfectly with just a trickle seeping past the seal. A bit of gentle tightening produced a water tight pump. Fingers crossed.


At Punta del Este my hitherto trusty Autohelm tiller pilot ceased functioning. The cause was traced to some corrosion on the connector pins.

After a putting some hours on the engine after replacing the stern gland seal some tightening of the gland was needed to stem a fast drip into the bilge.

Seen on a roundabout on the back way into town.


A nice calm sea now. No sign yet of the northerly wind.


La Paloma lighthouse.

La Paloma

This morning a problem developed with our toilet pump. Too much water was leaking from the top housing. Normally, tightening the screws a tad solves this problem. This time I felt something give.

A mounting stud had sheared off. Oh dear. No spare pump and without a pump we have no toilet. Hmmm. Nearest replacement? Probably Buneos Aires.


We walked into town past the old La Paloma station sadly disused but with the tracks and platform still more or less intact.


Looks like the weather will be unhelpful for a few days so we checked bus timetables in case it was necessary to source a new pump in BsAs.

We found out today that a yacht was wrecked on sunday night in Punta del Este, the same night we were having a robust ride up the Uruguayan coast.


Punta del Este to La Paloma

At one stage the wind dropped down to 11 knots and I considered carrying on. At daylight it was back up to 20 knots.

At 06:20 we steered for La Paloma. It was an uneventful straightforward approach but mooring was a bit pragmatic. Hidrografia staff stood on the dock waving about but with 20 knots blowing across the dock it was extremely difficult to get a line on a mooring buoy and nudge in to get bow lines ashore. At some ports Hidrografia staff assist but not here. Fortunately a french skipper jumped in a dinghy and ran our line to the buoy.

The buoys here are steel, low down with no fendering at all. Not at all friendly to GRP boats. At check in I was reprimanded by the Prefectura for not calling in before entering the harbour. These radio encounters involve lengthy questioning at a time when one is concentrating on navigating the boat into harbour and I mentioned this to the Prefectura. Nothing further was said.

Passage time 21hrs 20 min. Distance 58.21 miles.



Punta del Este to La Paloma

The forecast today was for the calm weather to give way to SE F4-6. I decided to take advantage and go.

First we had to check out. At 10:15 I was in the Hidrografia office ready to pay. They informed me that check out after 10:00 meant paying another day. There was no notice of this on the web site, rate sheet or in the office. Nor were we told about it beforehand. I was not happy and after a brief chat they relented provided we left quickly. Silly really as no other Hidrografia port I have visited tries this and the port was pretty empty in any case.

It was still calm as we rounded Punta del Este and steered NE up the coast.



About 16:00 it began to blow. 10, 15, 20 up to 28 knots. We were fly along having steadily reduced sail to the staysail and 3 reefs in the main.


It was an angry disturbed sea and much more uncomfortable than expected with quite violent boat motion.


It looks better downwind.


The forecast indicated moderating conditions over night. The wind dropped at times but was mostly above 20 knots. with the outlook uncertain I decided to divert in and wait for conditions to improve. At around 21:00 we hove to to wait for daylight. It was a very uncomfortable night bouncing about off La Paloma.



Punta Ballena

This morning we moved on to a dock mooring. The difference here between mooring on a buoy (Urg$292) and on the dock (Urg$372) is about 30%. In some other Hidrografia ports it is 100%.

They got a bit snippy with us saying that the berth we had chosen was reserved and we would have to move. It turned out that the Hidrografia use USA Channel 20 whereas our Channel 20 is European. They heard us call but we could not hear them.

It turned out that the berth was vacant after all and we stayed.

No wind today so we rented a scooter and drove 20km out to Punta Ballena.

Nancy at Punta Ballena with Punta del Este in the background.


It is a lovely spot and we had a spectacular day to visit.


An old fishermans cottage tucked in among the rocks.


Punta Ballena is home to
CasaPueblo. The museum/workshop of the Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró.


A gorgeous location and a beautifully eccentric building constructed over many years.




The building is an expression of his never ending conflict with the tyranny of the straight line.










Some of his paintings are on display.


A micro cinema screens an introductory video.


There is a hotel included in the site...


...complete with gardens and a pool.


Late afternoon terrace view west towards Piriapolis.


This makes the fifth none linear artist/architect I have come across. The others being Gaudi in Barcelona,
Hundertwasser in Vienna, César Manrique on Lanzarote and Antonio Padron also on Lanzarote.

Back in Punta del Este we had a red sunset over the marina.

Montevideo to Punta del Este

Throughout the early hours we made good progress but at daybreak the wind began to die away. At 08:00 we were ghosting along under light airs and by 09:30 we were becalmed.

We decided to motor for a while but after three hours with no sign of wind we diverted to Punta del Este at 13:00.

Skyline Punta del Este.


Isla Gorriti off Punta del Este.


Punta Del Este moorings.


Looking for a buoy.


We got no reponse to our VHF calls to the Hidrografia and port control so we just picked up a vacant buoy at 15:20.

Fisherman sell their freshly cleaned catch on the marina quay. Seals come alongside and sometimes jump on the quay for some easy food.


Feeding time for seagulls as well.


Atlantic shoreline at Punta de Este.




Total distance: 75.6 miles. Passage time: 28 hours 20 minutes.

Montevideo to Punta del Este

We left YC Uruguayo at 11:00 under a light ESE breeze and began slowly tacking to the east. Northerlys were forecast.

Smart residential area to the east of Buceo.


Progress was very very slow until the wind backed and increased to N4 around midnight.

Montevideo

A tourism day today.

We took the bus into Montevideo and down to the old port area where we had lunch in the market.


Reminders of the Graf Spee are not infrequent in Montevideo.


One of many fine buildings scattered around Montevideo.

Montevideo

We took a chance on the wind this afternoon and ventured out into a gentle south easterly . The forecast westerly change did not transpire and the south easterly increased to over 20 knots whipping up short steep seas giving a very uncomfortable ride.

There being no hurry we returned to Buceo.

Montevideo

A lovely sunny day in Montevideo today.

Exhibit of vintage Peugeot cars at shopping Montevideo.



Looking eastward over Buceo harbour.


Late this afternoon I took the bus up to Tres Cruces coach station where Nancy was due to arrive from Buenos Aires.

Montevideo

Midnight saw us approaching Montevideo and at 00:25 the Graf Spee wreck buoy was close abeam to starboard.

We crossed Montevideo ship channel at 01:30 and at 03:40 anchored in 3 metres off Playa Pocitos, Buceo, Montevideo.


Moon setting over Montevideo.


Playa Pocitos anchorage.


There was no particular hurry and I slept late. At 10:30 we weighed anchor and proceeded towards Buceo harbour and Yacht Club Uruguayo.


Looking back through the entrance to Buceo harbour.



Yacht Club Uruguayo building and moorings.


A welcoming marinero assisted with picking up a visitor buoy and at 11:00 we were all fast at Yacht Club Uruguayo.

Total Distance 120.37 miles. Passage time to anchorage 37hrs 40min.

Buenos Aires to Montevideo

Early on the wind veered SW and we made steady progress but as the day wore on we slowed to a point of ghosting along

Large amounts of airborne spider web like material began to collect in the rigging.


A very slight sea, 5.2 knots of wind, depth 6m and speed 1.7 knots.


By 20:00 the lights of Montevideo were visible on the horizon and we made good progress under a northerly F3.


Buenos Aires to Montevideo

I took the excellent Sturla river launch from Tigre to Puerto Madero arriving at just after 09:00.

With my customs clearance completed yesterday it only remained to check out with Immigration and Prefectura. Unusually immigration took almost an hour with queueing and problems with a new computer system.

At the Prefectura a new formality had been introduced. Under decree 256/2010 the master of any vessel leaving an Argentine port is required to sign an affadavit to the effect that the vessel will not call at a number of British south atlantic territories without first obtaining permission from the Argentine authorities.




I'm not sure how well this plays under international law but presumably if one does not sign it one will not be granted clearance.

In any case I was cleared out but not in time to catch the 12:00 bridge opening. At 14:00 we left Puerto Madero and cleared the harbour at 14:30

The wind was all over the place. Initially it was good sailing but later the wind veered to the east and around 19:00 we began a series of long tacks.

A RoRo bound for Puerto Sauce passed to the north.


Later a nice red sunset gave way to a full moon.


Ships passing in the night. One day I will learn how to take night photos on a boat at sea.


In these conditions sailng in the River Plate is a relaxed affair. One is well clear of shipping channels and there is very little recreational traffic. We made slow progress through the night with SE winds F3-4.