Overland to Buenos aires

Our TTL coach for Montevideo was due to depart at 23:30 but we didn't board until 00:15.

Brazil and Uruguay have a very considerate approach to overnight travellers. One's passport is held by the coach conductor who takes care of all formalities. A declaration is completed at checkin so at borders crossings sleeping passengers are not disturbed.

TTL are not as luxurious as the premium Argentine coach services but their coach was comfortable and the staff very helpful and considerate.

It was an uneventful overnight trip. We passed smoothly through Brazilian and Uruguayan border posts either side of Chuy, stopped at Punta del Este and arrived in Montevideo (Tres Cruces) more or less on time .

I took a Collectivo down to Montevideo Harbour. It was very hot and
Buquebus was a bit chaotic. The self serve checkins did not work and they were having repeated computer malfunctions at the checking desks.

Upstairs prior to boarding it was all a bit of a zoo. Eventually boarding started but large areas of the ferry were cordoned off with the result that there were not quite enough seats made available for all on board.


Uruguayan navy base in Montevideo.
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Departure was around 13:00 and three hours later we arrived in a very hot Buenos Aires.

Overland to Buenos Aires

Spent the day de-rigging the boat preparing her for a short layup. The senior marinero indicated that they might want to move Kiriwina at some point. This is not ideal as I know of at least one boat that has been damaged in the process.

I said I preferred that the boat be moved while I was there but nothing happened.

There seems to be a problem with my Sterling digital battery charger. When connected to shore power it emits a continuous clicking but does not charge.


Kiriwina on her mooring at Rio Grande YC.
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I left the club at 18:00 and stopped en route to book a ticket from Montevideo to Buenos Aires. In the end I chose BuqueBus. If only because they were the quickest option with a direct high speed ferry to Buenos Aires. Cost Arg$407 (£66).

My
Embaixador regional coach left Rio Grande at 20:00. It is a stopping service and the trip up to Pelotas took a bit over and hour.

This left we with a couple of hours in Pelotas coach station before catching a TTl coach to Montevideo. It was a rainy night with very few people waiting.

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Unusual spiral walkway at Pelotas coach station.
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Rio Grande

First job today was to complete clearance formalities. Policia Federal (Immigration) are located centrally, quite close to the club. I spent about 30 minutes there including waiting time. Then I walked down to the Receita Federal in the harbour area about 40 minutes away. At 11:50 I was just a tad too late to get in before the lunch break.

A convenient city bus leaves just outside and I returned to the centre where the bus stops are spread around a central park.

Plaza Tamandare, Rio Grande.
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Mural de Agueda just nearby.
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I had lunch at Planetarios, a pay by kilo restaurant which offers free wifi. Then I took a bus back to the Receita. Depending on the bus company fares in the central area are between R$2-3.

At the Receita I was seen straight away and then given a lift up to the Capitania by a friendly port agent.

Immaculate office of the Capitaina dos Portos, Rio Grande.
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At the Capitania they were very quick and we ended up discussing the merits of sailing up Lagoa dos Patos Porto Alegre.

Afterwards I walked back to the bus station to book a ticket up to Pelotas R$8.70 (£3.30) and from there on to Montevideo R$164 (£62.50).

Rio Grande

After a very relaxing sleep I got up early to tidy the boat and have a closer look at the failed shaft coupling.

It was possible to slide the shaft back and forth with the coupling having no grip at all. This was not supposed to happen. After the last failure I had the Yanmar dealer in Galmpton repair the coupling.

The standard unit is secured with four allen bolts and a "key" which is supposed to locate in a recess on the shaft. None of these appear to have worked and I was unable to tighten the allen bolts. In Galmpton the engineer added a grub screw as added security. This appeared to be functional.

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After tightening the grub screw as much as I dared I tested the engine and the coupling held. After weighing anchor at 09:40 we slowly got under way.

Rio Grande shipyard.
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After a few minutes I increased the revs a bit and the coupling failed again. The process was repeated with another failure after 5 minutes. After tightening the grub screw a third time I resolved to proceed at minimum revs. The coupling held.

Conditions were more or less perfect with a gentle breeze giving an extra half a knot with the yankee deployed.
At 11:10, approaching inner harbour buoy #01 with 4 miles to go the coupling was holding.


Lots of floating weed patches.
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Turkish bulker "Duden" gutted by fire lying at her berth in Rio Grande. Her cargo of urea caught fire off the Brazilian coast and she was towed in by the Brazilian navy. She is currently under arrest and abandoned by her owners.
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The old port.
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Maritime museum.
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Refurbished Hungarian Ganz crane.
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More of the old port.
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One mile to go and the coupling is still holding. Speed under power around 1 knot.

Maritime museum dock with Rio Grande Yacht Club beyond.
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Entry buoys to Rio Grand Yacht Club.
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Arrival at Rio Grand Yacht Club. It is quite shallow at the entrance. I had 1.3-1.5 metres.
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Conditions remained benign and I ghosted into a visitor berth at 13:40. Phew!

This is a very attractive club. Some of the wooden docks are a bit tired but the facilities in general are very good. The cost is R$1(£0.40) per foot per day which for Kiriwina is R$28 (£10.70) per day. The Real has appreciated some 30% since I first arrived almost three years ago. Brazil certainly seems more expensive now.

Passage to Rio Grande

At midnight the seas were still rough and the wind was steady at SSE F7. Kiriwina was romping along with about half the staysail deployed.

At 04:00 conditions had improved somewhat. Till now we had been keeping at least 25 miles off the coast. We altered to a northerly course directly for Rio Grande. Now deploying 3/4 of the staysail.

Conditions continued to ease. At 08:00 it was fine and sunny with the wind S-SW F5. The staysail was taken in and 3/4 yankee deployed.

At 12:00 we were having a lovely sail. Moderate seas, long swell. Wind S-SW F5. Full Yankee.

By 16:00 I began to wonder if we would loose the wind. After easing to F2 for a while it settled back to F4 Rio Grande was visible on the horizon and we were running under full main and yankee.

At 18:00 we were just over 4 miles of the harbour entrance with a falling wind and slight sea and swell. Our approach lay to the south and west of the main ship channel and we diverted into the fairway at the harbour entrance.

Number 6 fairway buoy at Rio Grande in very favourable conditions.
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Big ship exiting the harbour.
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Overview: Rio Grande harbour entrance.
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West breakwater.
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East breakwater.
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At the entrance there was a strong flood tide. Just inside Kiriwina's shaft coupling began to fail.

Starboard buoy with strong tidal tail inside the breakwaters.
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However, there is ample space outside the ship channel on either side for small craft to anchor. Fortunately I was able to nurse the coupling until we reached a safe anchorage well inside the outer harbour. At 20:15 the coupling failed completely and we anchored of a shipyard clear of the chip channel in 4.3 metres.

I attempted to call harbour control and Rio grande pilots on channel 16 but got no reply.


Outer harbour container berths.
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Sunset over the shipyard.
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Rio Grande outer harbour looking seaward.
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We seemed safe enough so I decided to stay put for the night and see what tomorrow brings.

Trip log 215 miles.
Passage time 2 days and 2 hours. No bad considering that we lay ahull for around 7 hours.
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Passage to Rio Grande

Throughout the night we had winds from SE through SW F2-4. The barometer dropped from 1002 to 1000. At 04:00 we were off Cabo Polonia and running under full yankee with one reef in the main.

By 0800 things had deteriorated a bit. I was experiencing my first full gale at sea on Kiriwina. The yankee was furled and we were flying along under the main with three reefs.

If anything we were going a bit too fast with speeds often in excess of 6 knots. The wind was SSE 35 knots and increasing. With the seas and swell building Kiriwina sometimes slid down a wave and on occasion a gust would cause her to lean over and dig her quarter in resulting in her shipping water in the cockpit. This water was slow to drain at times.

Basically we had too much sail up. At 10:45 with windspeed reaching 40 knots in gusts I decided to stow the main and lie ahull for a while. This involved climbing up onto the cabin, securing the sail while ensuring nothing got tangled or fouled. The helm was lashed to leeward.

With this Kiriwina settled down with the wind slightly forward of the beam at a speed of 0.2 to 0.3 knots through the water. Her speed over the ground speed was 2.5-3.0 knots.

It was a lot deeper than 9.8 metres.
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Lying ahull in rough seas.
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The helm lashed to leeward.
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35 knots of wind and increasing.
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Calming eddy created by Kiriwina's sideways motion through the water.
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By 15:00 the seas were very rough with SSE winds between 35-40 knots. Kiriwina rode easily making good a course of 028º some 25 miles from the coast.
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Still lying ahull with the helm lashed to leeward under a dark and gloomy sky.
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Around 17:00 the wind eased slightly to between 30-35 knots. I decided to resume sailing and deployed half the staysail.

At 19:00 we were sailing comfortably under a clearing sky. Windspeed was dropping below 30 knots at times.

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At 20:00 we were some 24 miles off Chuy on the Brazil/Uruguay border. By midnight the wind had eased to between 25-30 knots. Under half the staysail we were making just under 5 knots.

Passage to Rio Grande

It looked as though today might be the day to leave. The Uruguayan forecast was as follows.

Boletín Meteorológico Marino de la hora 15:00 UTC del 11/12/2010

Período de validez: 24 hs.
1. Aviso de temporal: se formula por rachas de viento del SE y S hasta la fuerza 8 (34 - 40 nudos) para Mar Territorial Uruguayo, Río de la Plata y Río Grande del Sur. Validez: desde las 20 UTC hasta el final del período.
Situación sinóptica correspondiente a la carta de las 12:00 UTC y su evolución:
Frente cálido se ubica en 27oS 58oW, 29oS 53oW y 30oS 50oW. Frente frío se ubica en 40oS 52oW, 38oS 55oW y 35oS 60oW y se desplaza al NE. Sistema de alta presión se aproxima por el SW de Provincia de Buenos Aires.
Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: N fuerza 5/3. Rotando al S y SE fuerza 5/7, rachas de fuerza 8. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso y cubierto, precipitaciones y tormentas aisladas. Visibilidad: buena a regular. Olas: 1.5 m. evolucionando a 3.5 m. Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: SW y W fuerza 5/6, rachas de fuerza 7. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso, períodos de algo nuboso.

The question for me was whether I would get F5 or F7. In the end I decided to go reasoning that the weather was forecast to ease further north and we were going north.

Our stay of two weeks at La Paloma cost Urg$3208 (£103). Clearance out was slow and relaxed.

Back on board I singled up and in calm conditions eased off the berth at 17:00. The engine seemed to hesitate before giving full power after a screeching noise from below. At 17:15 we cleared the harbour and motor sailed east to clear the sandbanks lying north of La Paloma harbour.

At 18:50 we were well clear and continued under sail. A heavy rain squall passed over at 20:00 followed by SW winds F4-5. Later La Laloma radio called up enquiring as to our well being.

Towards midnight we were having a relaxed sail and the wind began to ease.

Chuy

No chance to leave today but there just might be a weather window tomorrow. Meantime I decided to take bus ride up to Chuy on the Brazilian border.

Our bus took route 16 up to Rocha where there was a 15 minute layover.

An attractive central square surrounded by shops and businesses.
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An attractive theatre....
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...alongside a somewhat neglected cinema.
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From Rocha our route continued along route 9 past Laguna de Castillo.
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We passed through Castillo continued along route 9 past Laguna Negra to Punta del Diablo which is accessed via a dirt road leading down to the coast from route 9.
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Colourful holiday homes in Punta del Diablo.
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Punta del Diablo and the Atlantic beyond.
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From Punta del Diablo we rejoined route 9 and continued on to Chuy passing the Uruguayan border post just south of the town.

Chuy straddles the Brazil/Uruguay border. This is its claim to fame but in reality there is little here to detain the visitor. There are a lot of duty free shops on the Uruguayan side but I saw little of interest.

The Border is on Avenida Uruguay/Brasil. This is the Uruguayan side..
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..and this is the Brazilian side.
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I had a late lunch and caught the return coach.

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La Paloma

Still no sign of a weather window. Northerly and north easterly winds 15-20 knots continued for most of today.

These are forecast to moderate before giving way to southerly winds tomorrow. Sadly the window looks too narrow as strong northerlys are forecast for Rio Grande on friday.

Nancy ran out of time and returned to Buenos Aires today.

La Paloma

This weather really is a bit peculiar. We are pretty much getting alternating days of southerly and northerly winds.

This is unhelpful as we need 2-2.5 days to reach Rio Grande.

The forecast this evening was no better.

Boletín Meteorológico Marino de la hora 15:00 UTC del 05/12/2010

Período de validez: 24 hs. 1. Aviso de temporal: se prevén vientos equivalentes a la fuerza 8 de la escala Beaufort (34 - 40 kt) del NW para
la Provincia de Buenos Aires. Validez: desde las 03 UTC de mañana.
2. Aviso de visibilidad restringida: no se formula.
Situación sinóptica correspondiente a la carta de las 12:00 UTC y su evolución:
Sistema de alta presión con centro de valores superiores a 1018 hPa se ubica en 38oS 58oW se desplaza al NE. Frente frío se ubica en 35oS 50oW, 37oS 43oW, 40oS 35oW y se desplaza al ENE.
Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: sector S fuerza 6/4, amainando a variables fuerza 2/3. Afirmándose mañana del sector N fuerza 4/6. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro, períodos de nuboso mañana. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 1.5 m evolucionando hasta 3.5 m.
Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: sector N fuerza 4/6, ocasionales rachas de fuerza 7. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro evolucionando a nuboso.
Río Grande del Sur
Vientos: sector S fuerza 6/4 rotando al NE fuerza 2/3. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso, períodos de nuboso. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 1.5 evolucionando hasta 4.0 m.

It was a lovely sunny day here. Not to hot and perfect for a walk along the beach.

Cabo Polonia

A brisk northerly this morning meant we would not be sailing today. We decided to visit Cabo Polonia some 50km up the coast.

There is a regular bus service from the coach station in La Paloma.


The bus stop for Cabo Polonia is actually some 7km from the cape. On has the choice of taking a very old 4wd shuttle (Urg$150 return) or walking. We chose to walk.

Goats on route.



Most or the route is over grassy dunes. The 4wd's make a bit of a mess of the terrain. Visitors and or residents are allowed access using their own 4wd's. Cabo Polonia is in the distance.


Dunes extending to the south.


Beach shack two km from the cape.


Sheltered beach on the leeward side of Cabo Polonia. The more expensive and better kept houses are on this side.


The beach gives way to rocks.


First attempt at an I-Phone panorama.


The northern side is much more heavily built with hostels, posadas shops, a shuttle station and a wide variety of private accommodation split between holiday homes and alternative lifestyle permanents. There is no mains electricity but I saw only a few wind generators and one solar heater.


There is a small fishing fleet. Boats are pulled clear of high water on skids.


Northern more exposed beach.


North facing houses on the shore battling erosion.


Most dwellings are small.


Fresh water is drawn from wells.


Many of the houses are home builds.


This was one of the smallest.


The lighthouse...


...with vicious shoals beyond.


A smarter house overlooking the leeward beach.


We caught a 4wd shuttle back. They are mostly heavily converted army surplus that have seen better days. On our trip the suspension bottomed regularly during a very bouncy ride. I preferred walking.


Back in La Paloma the latest forecast indicated a change to southerly winds for 24 hours then back to northerlys. No point in sailing with a south wind only to run into an F6 northerly 24 hours later.

La Pedrera

It was a marginal call this morning. This was the forecast.

Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: sector S fuerza 3/5, Ocasionalmente 6 amainando. Luego al SE y E fuerza 3/4. Luego al N fuerza 4/5. Asociadas a tormentas probables rachas de fuerza 7/8. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso y algo nuboso. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 2.5 – 1.5 m.
Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: NW fuerza 3/2, periodos de variables y de calma afirmandose. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro, nuboso al final de periodo.

Río Grande del Sur
Vientos: N fuerza 5/3. rotando al S y SE fuerza 4/6. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso con algos precipitaciones. Probable tormentas al sur del área. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 3.0 – 1.5 m.

Rio Grande is 210 miles away. Just over two days for Kiriwina at 4 knots. According to satellite pictures the storms were away in the south.

At 09:00 it looked to be blowing F6 outside the harbour. The weather changes rapidly here and I felt the window of opportunity was a bit narrow. We stayed.

Instead we walked 8.5 kilometers barefoot along the beach to nearby La Pedrera. Nice beach and a discreet little resort at La Pedrera.



Remains of the chinese ship "Cathay" wrecked here in 1977.


Nancy and the beach with La Paloma in the distance.

La Paloma

Overnight the forecast northerly of around 25 knots arrived. It made for a slightly more bumpy evening on our mooring.

A calm spell around mid morning gave way to a strong north westerly of 25-30 knots. We are completely sheltered from this wind.

A french single hander arrived this afternoon. With 20 knots plus blowing across the mooring it was difficult to berth. There were five Uruguayan officials standing around but none attempted to help. Another french skipper tried to help by rowing out a buoy line. He was stopped by a very officious and unhelpful Prefectura noncom who threw a hissy fit on the grounds that a lifejacket was not being worn. After bout of chaos a lifejacket was produced and the lines were run out. No thanks to the Hidrografia, Prefectura or Aduana.

I've never seen this type of official down here before. His conduct contrasts with the remarks by President Mujica yesterday about the need for training and investment in developing tourism.

Later we walked the outer breakwater. This seal was taking a nap.


A dangerous rocky shoal extends some way out to sea on the southern harbour approach.


The forecast for tomorrow and beyond. North, back to south. Not helpful. We will be here for a few days yet.

Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: N fuerza 4/5, períodos de variables fuerza 2. Rotando al S fuerza 5/6. Ocasionales rachas fuerza 8 asociadas a tormentas. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso, períodos de cubierto con precipitaciones y tormentas. Mejorando mañana.
Visibilidad: buena, períodos de regular. Olas: 1.5 - 2.5 m. Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: S fuerza 5/6 al sector N fuerza 3/4. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro.

A Presidential Visit

A northerly force 7 is forecast within the next 18 hours so we won't be leaving today.

On the way into town we noticed a guard of honour at the naval helicopter station adjacent to the harbour.

A naval helicopter swooped in and landed and we assumed it was merely a high ranking officer paying a visit. Not so. Senor
José Mujica, Presidente de la República Oriental del Uruguay was coming to visit.

We thought we would tag along and see what was happening. A new breakwater to the west of the harbour had just been completed at a cost of US$6.4 million. The first stage in a plan to redevelop the harbour and infrastructure.

This chap who, I assume, is the presidential chief of staff was giving an introductory speech. We were waved in by naval police and were front row centre to view proceedings.



Next up the Intendente (Mayor) de Rocha praising the project and welcoming visiting dignitaries.


President Mujica waiting his turn on stage. He is the stocky grey haired chap in sunglasses just left of centre. He looks like a cuddly grandad and seems very approachable.


A fishing boat entering La Paloma harbour as the speeches continue.


Next up Alejandro Ruibal
. Operations director of construction company Saceem who built the breakwater.


Then we heard from the Minister of Works, Enrique Pintado.


Meantime some muscle and two ribbon girls waited in the wings.


Now it was time to introduce Senor Presidente.....


The cameras clicked and whirred as he moved forward.


Not wanting to stand and deliver he took the microphone, sat down on the edge of the stage, and talked about continuity of infrastructure projects and the work they bring to communities across Uruguay.


Lots of media in attendance. TV, radio and press.


The chief of staff looked pleased with proceedings.


The new breakwater being officially opened today.


The ribbon cutting ceremony with pieces being distributed to the dignitaries present.


Time for a photo op as a beaming ribbon girl holds her tray and scissors.


El Presidente takes a walk on the breakwater.



The president receiving an explanation of the project. He has now donned a New York baseball cap.

The chap in the foreground had a wire coming out of his left ear and rarely moved more than a metre away from the President. He also discreetly squeezed out of the way anybody impeding presidential progress.


This is the problem the breakwater is meant to solve. Massive silting over many years has left this dock dry and unusable.


As explanations continue a Prefectura rib patrols in the background.


Nancy got to extend saludos to the President and shake his hand. Sadly, due to a photographer malfunction only her shoulder appears in the photo.


More admirers take the opportunity for a photo op.


The show is pretty much over and visitors start to leave. The muscle keep a close eye on the President.


This is not a pretentious presidency. The presidential Mitsubishi Lancer awaits.


President Mujica jumps into the front seat with the driver and off they go.


Some local fireman also attended.


And there he goes. The presidential helicopter heading south west to Montevideo.


It was very hot. We went to the beach.


Back at the harbour a view of the silting from the other side.