Ria de Muros
Return to Vilagarcia
20/May/2007 18:05
Got up reasonably early and caught the 10:40 train From Santiago de Compostela to Vilagarcia. The weather has turned nasty. It is cloudy with showers and NW F7 is forecast.
Spend the day doing odd jobs about the boat including fitting a bottle screw and chain to secure the anchor for sea without using the windlass and fitting an LED bulb to the refurbished port berth reading light.
Both reading lights have now been fitted LED clusters from BEBI. They give out a whiter much stronger light than the 10w bulb they replace. A great improvement. The port one which had started to tarnish badly after it got splashed with salt water polished up really well with Solvol Autosol. It was then coated with synthetic varnish. Not a perfect finish but if it doesn't tarnish I will be happy.
Spend the day doing odd jobs about the boat including fitting a bottle screw and chain to secure the anchor for sea without using the windlass and fitting an LED bulb to the refurbished port berth reading light.
Both reading lights have now been fitted LED clusters from BEBI. They give out a whiter much stronger light than the 10w bulb they replace. A great improvement. The port one which had started to tarnish badly after it got splashed with salt water polished up really well with Solvol Autosol. It was then coated with synthetic varnish. Not a perfect finish but if it doesn't tarnish I will be happy.
Riviera to Vilagarcia
15/May/2007 17:44
A beautiful day today. Another walk ashore this morning to get some groceries and enjoy a coffee.
The marina has free WiFi which worked on the boat at least 300 metres from the office but not in the cafe next door. This cafe had a neat marketing idea. At around 12:00 they distributed samples of the menu del dia. Extremely useful for self who has yet to memorise a workable spanish menu vocabulary.
Paid my bill and noticed that the club received a recent visit from El Rey, Juan Carlos. Photographs of the occasion occupied pride of place in reception. I get the impression that El Rey quite likes his sailing. He seems to have visited a lot of Club Nauticos in this area. His interest must be to good effect as in El Pais the other day they reported that the Spanish team had made the final four in the Americas Cup trials in Valencia.
Before leaving I tried again, having failed the first time in Portosin, to buy a ticket for the Van Morrison concert in Santiago de Compostela next saturday. I think I succeeded but not before being exposed to the sort of slime-ball customer abuse so common in England. Tickets offered on one website only, Caixa Galicia. Website does not work so phone help line on a rip-off rate (902) to be told there would be a surcharge because I didn't order on the website. Hung up and tried the website again. I hope it worked but I have to go to a branch of Caixa Galicia to get my ticket.
At 14:30 we left Riveira bound for Vilagarcia. The wind was right behind us at around WNW F2-3. We sailed all the way to Vilagarcia on the yankee only. Not very fast but very relaxing.
An alert regular reader asked what are the obstacles in the water on some google earth pictures.
They are called Viveiros and are large floating wooden rafts which function as mussel farms. Mussels grow on ropes which hang vertically under the Viveiros.
A Viveiro in the Ria Arosa. It is sitting low in the water indicating a pending harvest.
More Viveiros. The vessel alongside is harvesting mussels.
One of the pilot books I use refers to Villagarcia as "not very attractive". I'm not so sure about that. Just after arrival on the waiting berth at 18:00 we were met by the marinero who allocated our berth and helped with mooring.
Vilagarcia has a large marina with a pleasant Club de Mar with free internet, brand new chandler and a city centre only a few minutes walk away. I had a quick walk around this evening and was quite impressed.
The marina has free WiFi which worked on the boat at least 300 metres from the office but not in the cafe next door. This cafe had a neat marketing idea. At around 12:00 they distributed samples of the menu del dia. Extremely useful for self who has yet to memorise a workable spanish menu vocabulary.
Paid my bill and noticed that the club received a recent visit from El Rey, Juan Carlos. Photographs of the occasion occupied pride of place in reception. I get the impression that El Rey quite likes his sailing. He seems to have visited a lot of Club Nauticos in this area. His interest must be to good effect as in El Pais the other day they reported that the Spanish team had made the final four in the Americas Cup trials in Valencia.
Before leaving I tried again, having failed the first time in Portosin, to buy a ticket for the Van Morrison concert in Santiago de Compostela next saturday. I think I succeeded but not before being exposed to the sort of slime-ball customer abuse so common in England. Tickets offered on one website only, Caixa Galicia. Website does not work so phone help line on a rip-off rate (902) to be told there would be a surcharge because I didn't order on the website. Hung up and tried the website again. I hope it worked but I have to go to a branch of Caixa Galicia to get my ticket.
At 14:30 we left Riveira bound for Vilagarcia. The wind was right behind us at around WNW F2-3. We sailed all the way to Vilagarcia on the yankee only. Not very fast but very relaxing.
An alert regular reader asked what are the obstacles in the water on some google earth pictures.
They are called Viveiros and are large floating wooden rafts which function as mussel farms. Mussels grow on ropes which hang vertically under the Viveiros.
A Viveiro in the Ria Arosa. It is sitting low in the water indicating a pending harvest.
More Viveiros. The vessel alongside is harvesting mussels.
One of the pilot books I use refers to Villagarcia as "not very attractive". I'm not so sure about that. Just after arrival on the waiting berth at 18:00 we were met by the marinero who allocated our berth and helped with mooring.
Vilagarcia has a large marina with a pleasant Club de Mar with free internet, brand new chandler and a city centre only a few minutes walk away. I had a quick walk around this evening and was quite impressed.
Portosin to Riveira
14/May/2007 07:15
When I got up today there was not a breath of wind in the marina. Theyr, Meteo France and INM were all forecasting NW winds F3-4. Pretty well perfect for our southerly passage.
At the marina office they gave me a discount of 15% to compensate for the hot water malfunction during my first two days.
We cleared Portosin harbour at 11:00 and motorsailed for about an hour. Thereafter we had a cracking sail with main and yankee at varying speeds all the way to Riviera only motoring the last mile or so directly into the wind. This passage required some care due to the number of unmarked shoals well off the coast and we stayed well out to sea.
After the strong winds of recent days there was a substantial swell, INM said 3m, and if anything their forecast was a tad on the low side. I was surprised that the swell was from the NW when recent weather had been SW. As the afternoon wore on the wind increased and for the last two hours we had NW F6.
At 17:00 we passed the southern tip of Isla de Salvora with it's nasty offlying rocks. The passage north of Salvora is much quicker but is recommended only in calm conditions.
Southern tip of Isla De Salvora.
We were all fast at Club Nautico de Riveira just after 19:00. Another ouch on marina costs. One night cost €18. So far marina costs have doubled since we got round Cabo Finisterre and it's not yet high season.
Riviera is a large fishing port and work continues late into the evening with regular loud blasts on a siren the purpose of which escaped me. Took a quick walk ashore. Quite a long strip of bars and cafes along the harbourfront but not a lot to warrant more than an overnight stay.
At the marina office they gave me a discount of 15% to compensate for the hot water malfunction during my first two days.
We cleared Portosin harbour at 11:00 and motorsailed for about an hour. Thereafter we had a cracking sail with main and yankee at varying speeds all the way to Riviera only motoring the last mile or so directly into the wind. This passage required some care due to the number of unmarked shoals well off the coast and we stayed well out to sea.
After the strong winds of recent days there was a substantial swell, INM said 3m, and if anything their forecast was a tad on the low side. I was surprised that the swell was from the NW when recent weather had been SW. As the afternoon wore on the wind increased and for the last two hours we had NW F6.
At 17:00 we passed the southern tip of Isla de Salvora with it's nasty offlying rocks. The passage north of Salvora is much quicker but is recommended only in calm conditions.
Southern tip of Isla De Salvora.
We were all fast at Club Nautico de Riveira just after 19:00. Another ouch on marina costs. One night cost €18. So far marina costs have doubled since we got round Cabo Finisterre and it's not yet high season.
Riviera is a large fishing port and work continues late into the evening with regular loud blasts on a siren the purpose of which escaped me. Took a quick walk ashore. Quite a long strip of bars and cafes along the harbourfront but not a lot to warrant more than an overnight stay.
Portosin
13/May/2007 16:02
When we arrived here on Wednesday I thought we would be moving on after two days at the most.
The next leg involves sailing out of the Ria Muros, down the coast a bit then into the Ria de Arosa which can be accessed north or south of Isla de Salvora the former being a more challenging pilotage. On thursday and friday the wind was SW F4-5, pretty well bang on the nose not very pleasant and not ideal conditions for attempting the northern passage. I waited.
On saturday morning I was very tempted to leave. The wind was around force SW 3 but all the forecasts indicated that it would increase up to F6 during the day. I recently subscribed to a free trial at the weather service Theyr. They were forecasting SW F7.
I decided to wait and went into Noia for lunch and to top up on supplies. The weather seemed lovely and I regretting not having sailed. Browsing through El Pais over lunch I noticed that Van Morrison was playing in Santiago de Compostela.
Back at the boat on Saturday evening I emailed for a ticket to see Van. Later the wind started to increase dramatically. I woke at around 01:00. The boat was moving listing to port and the wind noise was much louder. My wind meter read slightly above 30 knots which is not far from F8. Theyr were right and I was glad I was not sitting on an exposed berth in the Ria de Arosa or worse still trying to reach one.
This morning (Sunday) the wind was still very strong but it moderated during the afternoon and the forecast for tomorrow is NW F4 which sounds just fine. We should be away tomorrow.
The next leg involves sailing out of the Ria Muros, down the coast a bit then into the Ria de Arosa which can be accessed north or south of Isla de Salvora the former being a more challenging pilotage. On thursday and friday the wind was SW F4-5, pretty well bang on the nose not very pleasant and not ideal conditions for attempting the northern passage. I waited.
On saturday morning I was very tempted to leave. The wind was around force SW 3 but all the forecasts indicated that it would increase up to F6 during the day. I recently subscribed to a free trial at the weather service Theyr. They were forecasting SW F7.
I decided to wait and went into Noia for lunch and to top up on supplies. The weather seemed lovely and I regretting not having sailed. Browsing through El Pais over lunch I noticed that Van Morrison was playing in Santiago de Compostela.
Back at the boat on Saturday evening I emailed for a ticket to see Van. Later the wind started to increase dramatically. I woke at around 01:00. The boat was moving listing to port and the wind noise was much louder. My wind meter read slightly above 30 knots which is not far from F8. Theyr were right and I was glad I was not sitting on an exposed berth in the Ria de Arosa or worse still trying to reach one.
This morning (Sunday) the wind was still very strong but it moderated during the afternoon and the forecast for tomorrow is NW F4 which sounds just fine. We should be away tomorrow.
Isla de Creba to Portosin
09/May/2007 16:23
There is a large marina at Portosin across the Ria where I want to stay for a day or two to visit Noia further upstream where the Ria is too shallow to navigate.
It is not far and at 0.81 miles must be our shortest day's run ever.
Portosin is a very modern and up to date with very northern prices. At €18.80 per day it is one of the most expensive we have visited on the trip (UK excluded). At checkin the staff were telling me how good the facilities were but they forgot to tell me that the hot water system was awaiting repair.
We were efficiently allocated a berth and were all fast by 10:40.
In the afternoon I caught a bus to Noia. This is another old trading town where the port has silted up.
There are two training walls to divert water towards Noia but one would need a very shallow draught even at high tide. Even if a small shallow draught vessel managed to reach Noia there appears to be nowhere to get ashore.
Noia has an attractive central plaza and an interesting old quarter again featuring a labyrinthe of stone paved narrow streets. I suspect it would be quite lively in the evenings given the number of bars and restaurants.
Town hall on the main plaza in Noia.
The further south we go the bigger the palms. Central plaza Noia.
In many of the smaller Galician towns we have visited there have been buildings awaiting restoration.
A challenging example in the old quarter of Noia.
It is not far and at 0.81 miles must be our shortest day's run ever.
Portosin is a very modern and up to date with very northern prices. At €18.80 per day it is one of the most expensive we have visited on the trip (UK excluded). At checkin the staff were telling me how good the facilities were but they forgot to tell me that the hot water system was awaiting repair.
We were efficiently allocated a berth and were all fast by 10:40.
In the afternoon I caught a bus to Noia. This is another old trading town where the port has silted up.
There are two training walls to divert water towards Noia but one would need a very shallow draught even at high tide. Even if a small shallow draught vessel managed to reach Noia there appears to be nowhere to get ashore.
Noia has an attractive central plaza and an interesting old quarter again featuring a labyrinthe of stone paved narrow streets. I suspect it would be quite lively in the evenings given the number of bars and restaurants.
Town hall on the main plaza in Noia.
The further south we go the bigger the palms. Central plaza Noia.
In many of the smaller Galician towns we have visited there have been buildings awaiting restoration.
A challenging example in the old quarter of Noia.
Muros to Isla de Creba
08/May/2007 16:01
A reasonably early start and went ashore for a coffee and another look around Muros. It really is a pretty little town.
Three more street scenes from Muros.
Then it was back on board for the trip to Isla de Creba.
Not one of our longer runs at 4.1 miles. Isla de Creba is privately owned, well tended and has a large house at the centre. There is at least one horse as well.
Our sheltered anchorage is off the NE corner of the island
I spent an hour scrubbing some accumulated weed from Kiriwina's hull around the waterline then took Kiriwini to explore the shore for a while. I found a little beach to land and walked for a mile along the shore. Even up here there is solidified oil residue from "Prestige". It is a shame that this lovely coast gets a lot of rubbish washed in from the sea. The vast majority of it being plastic bottles. I could have collected hundreds in just a mile or so. A good case for all plastic bottles being sold with a refundable deposit.
Three more street scenes from Muros.
Then it was back on board for the trip to Isla de Creba.
Not one of our longer runs at 4.1 miles. Isla de Creba is privately owned, well tended and has a large house at the centre. There is at least one horse as well.
Our sheltered anchorage is off the NE corner of the island
I spent an hour scrubbing some accumulated weed from Kiriwina's hull around the waterline then took Kiriwini to explore the shore for a while. I found a little beach to land and walked for a mile along the shore. Even up here there is solidified oil residue from "Prestige". It is a shame that this lovely coast gets a lot of rubbish washed in from the sea. The vast majority of it being plastic bottles. I could have collected hundreds in just a mile or so. A good case for all plastic bottles being sold with a refundable deposit.
Playa de Estorde to Muros
07/May/2007 12:03
I was woken at about 08:30 but the rattle of anchor chain as "Fruition" weighed anchor. She was returning north.
We got underway at 11:30 and proceed south, well off the coast to avoid numerous shoals and exposed rocks. At 14:00 we entered Ria Muros past a barren and rocky Monte Louro. The Ria is very deep and shelves rapidly very close to the shore. We anchored about 250 ft off Muros promenade at 15:00.
Kiriwini was deployed for a visit ashore. Muros is a lovely little fishing port but the promenade appears to be more tourist biased with many cafes and bars and some smart shops. The streets behind the promenade are a warren of stoned paved alleys with smallish houses many of which have been or are in the process of being restored.
Monte Louro on the northern shore at the entrance to Rio Muros with tiny lighthouse and off-lying rocks.
Approaching Muros with Punta Reconcido in the foreground.
Muros Waterfront
Ensenada de Muros looking NW
Muros promenade at 21:00
We got underway at 11:30 and proceed south, well off the coast to avoid numerous shoals and exposed rocks. At 14:00 we entered Ria Muros past a barren and rocky Monte Louro. The Ria is very deep and shelves rapidly very close to the shore. We anchored about 250 ft off Muros promenade at 15:00.
Kiriwini was deployed for a visit ashore. Muros is a lovely little fishing port but the promenade appears to be more tourist biased with many cafes and bars and some smart shops. The streets behind the promenade are a warren of stoned paved alleys with smallish houses many of which have been or are in the process of being restored.
Monte Louro on the northern shore at the entrance to Rio Muros with tiny lighthouse and off-lying rocks.
Approaching Muros with Punta Reconcido in the foreground.
Muros Waterfront
Ensenada de Muros looking NW
Muros promenade at 21:00