Galicia
Puerto Meloxo to Puerto Piedras Negras
27/May/2007 14:37
This morning I was woken by the boat moving about quite vigourously. It was raining heavily and a SW wind was blowing straight into the harbour. I would not have gone anywhere in those conditions but later the wind dropped and with the help of a local fisherman we got off the berth and away at 11:35, leaving a mooring line on the dock.
The weather moderated and we were able to sail most of the way round to Puerto Pedras Negras (Black Rocks) where we arrived at 14:30. By now it was fine and sunny. Arriving from the north it is necessary to make a wide sweep to the south to avoid a multitude of offlying rocks.
We are now clear of the Ria de Muros and in the Ensanada de Lanzana. The rocky coast is dotted with beautiful beaches some very small and one 3 miles long and the water is crystal clear.
Puerto Pedras Negras marina is very small with an apartment complex next door. I was told that it is no longer allowed to build apartments this close to the coast. It is a lovely location. The marina cost €13.33 per night and the facilities were just fine. There is a bar restaurant on the site with a two others on the beachfront nearby.
I went for a walk around the coast to the west. One can walk along the recently opened boardwalk or alternate between sandy beaches or rocky foreshore. The beaches were very clean and clear of the usual foreshore flotsam which appeared again further round the point away from the beaches.
Later I got a taxi back to Puerto Meloxo to retrieve my mooring line.
Approaching Puerto Pedras Negras before turning north. Ahead is Playa de Lanzada. Three mile of clean white sand.
The small marina and adjacent apartments.
Promenade atop the marina breakwater.
A reminder of how dangerous this coast can be.
Playa de Barrosa 5 minutes walk from the marina.
Self with Isla Ons in the background to the south and rocky shoals closer in. Note the water clarity.
Redundant military installation near the SW corner of Peninsular O Grove.
The weather moderated and we were able to sail most of the way round to Puerto Pedras Negras (Black Rocks) where we arrived at 14:30. By now it was fine and sunny. Arriving from the north it is necessary to make a wide sweep to the south to avoid a multitude of offlying rocks.
We are now clear of the Ria de Muros and in the Ensanada de Lanzana. The rocky coast is dotted with beautiful beaches some very small and one 3 miles long and the water is crystal clear.
Puerto Pedras Negras marina is very small with an apartment complex next door. I was told that it is no longer allowed to build apartments this close to the coast. It is a lovely location. The marina cost €13.33 per night and the facilities were just fine. There is a bar restaurant on the site with a two others on the beachfront nearby.
I went for a walk around the coast to the west. One can walk along the recently opened boardwalk or alternate between sandy beaches or rocky foreshore. The beaches were very clean and clear of the usual foreshore flotsam which appeared again further round the point away from the beaches.
Later I got a taxi back to Puerto Meloxo to retrieve my mooring line.
Approaching Puerto Pedras Negras before turning north. Ahead is Playa de Lanzada. Three mile of clean white sand.
The small marina and adjacent apartments.
Promenade atop the marina breakwater.
A reminder of how dangerous this coast can be.
Playa de Barrosa 5 minutes walk from the marina.
Self with Isla Ons in the background to the south and rocky shoals closer in. Note the water clarity.
Redundant military installation near the SW corner of Peninsular O Grove.
Santiago di Compostella
19/May/2007 18:16
Concert day today. Cleaned the boat and then tried to sort out my e-mail arrangements on the new servers. Part of it was quite easy but there were some complications where what I had in front of me was inconsistent with the instructions given and I was being given error messages. Very frustrating so mailed a grumble to tech support..
Then I had an hour or two before the train left for Santiago. Spent the time relaxing in a street cafe being entertained by a bunch of old boys sitting outside the cafe opposite singing traditional Galician songs.
The train ride to Santiago is only around 45 minutes. I hadn't booked a hotel and while walking up from the station found one in a perfect location. The Hotel Hórreo was very close to the town centre and within walking distance of Multiusos Fontes Do Sar where the concert is being held. I think I got the last room. It was very comfortable and pretty reasonable at €40 per night.
There were two hours before show time at 20:00 so I went for a coffee and read the paper. The last few minutes of the FA cup with Spanish commentary was on the tele.
It was about a 30 minute walk to Multiusos and I would say the majority of the people I saw walking up were south of 30. There was no queuing to get into the hall and they had a way of serving drinks that I had not seen. One booth sells you a ticket which you take to another booth which gives you your drink. I had forgotten my old rule which is never ever to buy anything other than the entrance ticket to an event. They were selling drink tickets much faster than they were serving drinks and with pot luck as to who was served it took a long while to get my drink. Grrr.
Quite a nice venue but the concert was no way sold out. The floor was pretty full but the cheaper side seats were largely empty. We were to be entertained by the Van Morrison Orchestra of 7 musicians, two doowah girls and Van himself.
Proceedings started pretty well on time with Van coming on after one warm up number. I had been very disappointed with Van Morrison when I saw him play in Cheltenham a few years ago. Tonight he was in fine form and the band was good. Most of the songs were more recent and only towards the end did they play a few classics. The show finished after only an hour and a half with "Gloria" and that was it. No encore, lights on and you can all go home. It was still light outside at 21:30 and I was left thinking, well, is that it!
Back in the town centre other musical activity was taking place. More traditional street musicians who were very good and an excellent latin trio, I think from Cuba, playing on a council sponsored stage.
All in all a good musical day but not in the way I had expected.
Then I had an hour or two before the train left for Santiago. Spent the time relaxing in a street cafe being entertained by a bunch of old boys sitting outside the cafe opposite singing traditional Galician songs.
The train ride to Santiago is only around 45 minutes. I hadn't booked a hotel and while walking up from the station found one in a perfect location. The Hotel Hórreo was very close to the town centre and within walking distance of Multiusos Fontes Do Sar where the concert is being held. I think I got the last room. It was very comfortable and pretty reasonable at €40 per night.
There were two hours before show time at 20:00 so I went for a coffee and read the paper. The last few minutes of the FA cup with Spanish commentary was on the tele.
It was about a 30 minute walk to Multiusos and I would say the majority of the people I saw walking up were south of 30. There was no queuing to get into the hall and they had a way of serving drinks that I had not seen. One booth sells you a ticket which you take to another booth which gives you your drink. I had forgotten my old rule which is never ever to buy anything other than the entrance ticket to an event. They were selling drink tickets much faster than they were serving drinks and with pot luck as to who was served it took a long while to get my drink. Grrr.
Quite a nice venue but the concert was no way sold out. The floor was pretty full but the cheaper side seats were largely empty. We were to be entertained by the Van Morrison Orchestra of 7 musicians, two doowah girls and Van himself.
Proceedings started pretty well on time with Van coming on after one warm up number. I had been very disappointed with Van Morrison when I saw him play in Cheltenham a few years ago. Tonight he was in fine form and the band was good. Most of the songs were more recent and only towards the end did they play a few classics. The show finished after only an hour and a half with "Gloria" and that was it. No encore, lights on and you can all go home. It was still light outside at 21:30 and I was left thinking, well, is that it!
Back in the town centre other musical activity was taking place. More traditional street musicians who were very good and an excellent latin trio, I think from Cuba, playing on a council sponsored stage.
All in all a good musical day but not in the way I had expected.
Camariñas to Playa de Estorde
06/May/2007 15:58
I had planned a reasonably early departure but was delayed by a morning fog. We sailed at 11:15 and made rapid progress down the coast under motor and main, helped by over a knot of southerly current. As usual there was very little until wind until around 14:00.
It was a lovely sunny day with the sea a deep turqoise blue. This was the last stretch of the Costa del Muerte. By the time we rounded Cabo Finisterre we had a northerly F4 which was not a lot of help as once round the cape we sailed a northerly course.
At 16:30 we anchored off Playa de Estorde which I had visited in April. I was surprised to see another boat in the anchorage. It was Dutch but I was unsure of the type. It looked like a restored fishing ketch and was in beautiful condition.
Approaching Cabo Finisterre from the north with the off-lying Sentolo de Finisterre visible.
Seaward side of Cabo Finisterra.
Another view from the south.
Playa de Estorde and the restaurant visited early in April.
A view south west from Playa de Estorde with Cabo in the foreground and Cabo Finisterre in the background.
Kiriwina shared the anchorage with the Dutch vessel "Fruition"
An attempt at a night shot with the Cabo Finisterre lighthouse on the right.
It was a lovely sunny day with the sea a deep turqoise blue. This was the last stretch of the Costa del Muerte. By the time we rounded Cabo Finisterre we had a northerly F4 which was not a lot of help as once round the cape we sailed a northerly course.
At 16:30 we anchored off Playa de Estorde which I had visited in April. I was surprised to see another boat in the anchorage. It was Dutch but I was unsure of the type. It looked like a restored fishing ketch and was in beautiful condition.
Approaching Cabo Finisterre from the north with the off-lying Sentolo de Finisterre visible.
Seaward side of Cabo Finisterra.
Another view from the south.
Playa de Estorde and the restaurant visited early in April.
A view south west from Playa de Estorde with Cabo in the foreground and Cabo Finisterre in the background.
Kiriwina shared the anchorage with the Dutch vessel "Fruition"
An attempt at a night shot with the Cabo Finisterre lighthouse on the right.
Camariñas and Puente del Puerto
05/May/2007 16:11
The pilot book mentions a little town further inland worth seeing. A visit involves a 9km walk or a much shorter row in the dinghy. I decided to walk.
The road follows the northern arm of the Ria around Ensenada de la Vasa and then cross country to Puente del Porto. On the outskirts of Camariñas large areas of woodland have been burnt out and new growth was just starting to appear on the trees. Bushfires swept through the area last summer.
It takes a little over two hours to reach Puente del Porto and it was worth the walk. A very pretty town whose main feature is the very old bridge. Originally a major port dating, it is said, from roman times where the fishing catch was landed and exports of timber and lace loaded. Now the river is silted up at the mouth and no longer navigable.
Allo, on the way to Puente del Porto.
The bridge at Puente del Puerto.
Downstream
Upstream
11th century church restored in 1953.
Small galleried buildings in Camariñas. One restored, one waiting...
Waterfront at Camarñas looking north up the Ria.
The road follows the northern arm of the Ria around Ensenada de la Vasa and then cross country to Puente del Porto. On the outskirts of Camariñas large areas of woodland have been burnt out and new growth was just starting to appear on the trees. Bushfires swept through the area last summer.
It takes a little over two hours to reach Puente del Porto and it was worth the walk. A very pretty town whose main feature is the very old bridge. Originally a major port dating, it is said, from roman times where the fishing catch was landed and exports of timber and lace loaded. Now the river is silted up at the mouth and no longer navigable.
Allo, on the way to Puente del Porto.
The bridge at Puente del Puerto.
Downstream
Upstream
11th century church restored in 1953.
Small galleried buildings in Camariñas. One restored, one waiting...
Waterfront at Camarñas looking north up the Ria.
Corme to Camariñas
04/May/2007 13:43
No great hurry to leave today. I've noticed that the mornings are relatively calm and is often well after lunch before the wind blows in any strength.
We cleared Corme harbour at 11:40 and proceeded under motor and main. The sea is again almost calm with a NW swell. It is also very hazy though not foggy. At 13:30 the wind has started to blow from the north so I turn the engine off. Our speed drops to 2.7 knots under main alone but when the yankee was deployed we were doing 4.2 knots. Steering is handed over to Dame Kiri (our Aries windvane) and we then sail all the way into Camariñas harbour.
This is the coast I toured in November. We sailed past the tiny port of Puerta Marina, barely visible from the sea in amongst the rocky approaches. Then we were off the shoals where the "HMS Serpent" was wrecked. A truly awesome coast.
We passed Cabo Villano lighthouse, built in 1896 and the first in Spain to use electricity, at 14:30.
The wind increased once we got round Cabo Villano and we sailed towards the Ria Camariñas entrance at over 5 knots.
A church on Punta de la Barca on the south side of the entrance.
At 16:00 when we dropped the sails a northerly wind was blowing down the Ria at over 20k. We moored on the centre pontoon at Club Nautico do Camariñas.
We cleared Corme harbour at 11:40 and proceeded under motor and main. The sea is again almost calm with a NW swell. It is also very hazy though not foggy. At 13:30 the wind has started to blow from the north so I turn the engine off. Our speed drops to 2.7 knots under main alone but when the yankee was deployed we were doing 4.2 knots. Steering is handed over to Dame Kiri (our Aries windvane) and we then sail all the way into Camariñas harbour.
This is the coast I toured in November. We sailed past the tiny port of Puerta Marina, barely visible from the sea in amongst the rocky approaches. Then we were off the shoals where the "HMS Serpent" was wrecked. A truly awesome coast.
We passed Cabo Villano lighthouse, built in 1896 and the first in Spain to use electricity, at 14:30.
The wind increased once we got round Cabo Villano and we sailed towards the Ria Camariñas entrance at over 5 knots.
A church on Punta de la Barca on the south side of the entrance.
At 16:00 when we dropped the sails a northerly wind was blowing down the Ria at over 20k. We moored on the centre pontoon at Club Nautico do Camariñas.
Ares to Corme
03/May/2007 15:37
Up early and away at just after 08:00. There is not much wind but I put the main up anyway and motor sail.
On the way out of the Ria we pass the Medi Baltimore with the Torre de Hercules visible just to the left of her bow.
A little later we pass the Torre de Hercules and la Coruña and are moving south again. Must confess to being a little sad leaving la Coruña behind after a very enjoyable stay. There are two yachts ahead of us and they fade into the distance.
The sea is almost calm with a moderate NW swell. At around 14:00 we pass the Islas Sisargas near Malpica. It is quite hazy.
Once round the Islas I put the yankee up but we are still motor sailing. For several hours we had company in the form of a Dutch Bavaria 37, 'King Alexander" from Lelystad. She gradually overtook us then we passed her and finally she overtook us again.
At 15:00 we are approaching Punta del Rocundo which I visited during my road trip in November. The benign conditions disguise what a harsh and vicious coast this is. The off lying rocks are barely visible.
A closer view of breaking shoals near Cabo Rocundo.
An hour later we have entered the Ria de Corme y Lage. There is a brisk northerly blowing and a decision needs to be made. Do we go to Corme in the north or Lage in the south. Given the prevailing conditions I choose Corme. A smaller town but better shelter.
As we approach Corme it is obvious that there is a large Riviero (mussel farm) off the harbour. This is not shown on my charts or in the pilot book but is shown on my electronic chart. We anchor off Playa de la Arnela in Corme harbour at 17:00. Day's run 37 miles, all motor sailing.
Kiriwina at anchor in Corme harbour. The town of Lage on the other side of the Ria is visible in the background.
Corme is a small town but I decided to go ashore and have a look around. When I row the tender over to the nearest landing the residual swell in the harbour means that a wet landing would be highly likely. Instead I rowed over to the harbour wall and climbed up a ladder.
Corme is not small it is very small. Quite a pretty place with a few shops and bars but in half an hour I think I have pretty well seen the town.
Waterfront at Corme
There are three beaches close to the town. The photo shows the third in the background behind Kiriwina.
On the way out of the Ria we pass the Medi Baltimore with the Torre de Hercules visible just to the left of her bow.
A little later we pass the Torre de Hercules and la Coruña and are moving south again. Must confess to being a little sad leaving la Coruña behind after a very enjoyable stay. There are two yachts ahead of us and they fade into the distance.
The sea is almost calm with a moderate NW swell. At around 14:00 we pass the Islas Sisargas near Malpica. It is quite hazy.
Once round the Islas I put the yankee up but we are still motor sailing. For several hours we had company in the form of a Dutch Bavaria 37, 'King Alexander" from Lelystad. She gradually overtook us then we passed her and finally she overtook us again.
At 15:00 we are approaching Punta del Rocundo which I visited during my road trip in November. The benign conditions disguise what a harsh and vicious coast this is. The off lying rocks are barely visible.
A closer view of breaking shoals near Cabo Rocundo.
An hour later we have entered the Ria de Corme y Lage. There is a brisk northerly blowing and a decision needs to be made. Do we go to Corme in the north or Lage in the south. Given the prevailing conditions I choose Corme. A smaller town but better shelter.
As we approach Corme it is obvious that there is a large Riviero (mussel farm) off the harbour. This is not shown on my charts or in the pilot book but is shown on my electronic chart. We anchor off Playa de la Arnela in Corme harbour at 17:00. Day's run 37 miles, all motor sailing.
Kiriwina at anchor in Corme harbour. The town of Lage on the other side of the Ria is visible in the background.
Corme is a small town but I decided to go ashore and have a look around. When I row the tender over to the nearest landing the residual swell in the harbour means that a wet landing would be highly likely. Instead I rowed over to the harbour wall and climbed up a ladder.
Corme is not small it is very small. Quite a pretty place with a few shops and bars but in half an hour I think I have pretty well seen the town.
Waterfront at Corme
There are three beaches close to the town. The photo shows the third in the background behind Kiriwina.