Portugal
Lisbon
10/07/07 17:20
Up fairly early and into Belem cultural centre for more coffee. Then it was on to the maritime museum across the road which had been closed yesterday.
While not a huge museum it was very interesting and I spent over two hours there. There was a large section on the early Portuguese navigators who were supported by King Henry "The Navigator" who did not do much navigation himself but was a patron of those who did. I also found out that "Gil Eannes" was from this era and was the first european to round Cape Bojador in Mauretania.
The section on Portuguese warships revealed that Portugal engaged in armed conflict with India in the early 1960's, something I was not aware of. There was a good section on the Portuguese cod fishing fleets which were served by the restored hospital ship "Gil Eannes" which I had seen in Viana do Castelo. There was also a model of this ship.
The last section featured some beautifully restored royal barges and a small selection of Portuguese owned seaplanes one of which had made a non stop flight to Argentina.
After some more sightseeing I had an early dinner called it a day. Tomorrow will be a long one.
While not a huge museum it was very interesting and I spent over two hours there. There was a large section on the early Portuguese navigators who were supported by King Henry "The Navigator" who did not do much navigation himself but was a patron of those who did. I also found out that "Gil Eannes" was from this era and was the first european to round Cape Bojador in Mauretania.
The section on Portuguese warships revealed that Portugal engaged in armed conflict with India in the early 1960's, something I was not aware of. There was a good section on the Portuguese cod fishing fleets which were served by the restored hospital ship "Gil Eannes" which I had seen in Viana do Castelo. There was also a model of this ship.
The last section featured some beautifully restored royal barges and a small selection of Portuguese owned seaplanes one of which had made a non stop flight to Argentina.
After some more sightseeing I had an early dinner called it a day. Tomorrow will be a long one.
Lisbon
09/07/07 17:38
Another morning coffee in Belem cultural centre with internet and e-mail.
Then it was into Lisbon city centre again for some more exploration. This time I was able to get a much more detailed map from the tourist office. Walking around Lisbon is certainly energetic due to the city being built on 5 hills.
Having lost my I-Pod at some point I decided to pop into El Corte Ingles for a replacement. This time in orange which I hope will be harder to lose.
As there was a Cinema in the same building I had a late lunch and afterwards saw the latest Bruce Willis Die hard film. A proper action film with minimal CGE. When Bruce crashes a car the car is really crashed. The car knocking down a helicopter was a bit ott and was CGE anyway.
Later I walked through Parque Eduado VII and back down Avenida da Libertad, through Plaza Pedro and on down to the waterfront before returning to Belem.
Then it was into Lisbon city centre again for some more exploration. This time I was able to get a much more detailed map from the tourist office. Walking around Lisbon is certainly energetic due to the city being built on 5 hills.
Having lost my I-Pod at some point I decided to pop into El Corte Ingles for a replacement. This time in orange which I hope will be harder to lose.
As there was a Cinema in the same building I had a late lunch and afterwards saw the latest Bruce Willis Die hard film. A proper action film with minimal CGE. When Bruce crashes a car the car is really crashed. The car knocking down a helicopter was a bit ott and was CGE anyway.
Later I walked through Parque Eduado VII and back down Avenida da Libertad, through Plaza Pedro and on down to the waterfront before returning to Belem.
Lisbon
08/07/07 18:20
Another lovely day in Lisbon.
After sleeping in I had a walk around Belem. Lots of people were out and about and I had a late morning coffee in the huge cultural centre where I was able to check my e-mail.
I have tickets for an evening concert featuring Pat Metheny and Brad Mehldau. Rather than risk getting there late I decided to take an afternoon trip out to the University to check on the route. It was all very straightforward and easily accomplished on the excellent Lisbon metro.
Later in the evening I returned for the concert. It was held in a large hall at the University of Lisbon to the north of the city centre. Pat Metheny on guitar and Brad Meldau on piano, with support on drums and base, were on stage for over two hours and three encores. An excellent concert in a lovely venue.
After sleeping in I had a walk around Belem. Lots of people were out and about and I had a late morning coffee in the huge cultural centre where I was able to check my e-mail.
I have tickets for an evening concert featuring Pat Metheny and Brad Mehldau. Rather than risk getting there late I decided to take an afternoon trip out to the University to check on the route. It was all very straightforward and easily accomplished on the excellent Lisbon metro.
Later in the evening I returned for the concert. It was held in a large hall at the University of Lisbon to the north of the city centre. Pat Metheny on guitar and Brad Meldau on piano, with support on drums and base, were on stage for over two hours and three encores. An excellent concert in a lovely venue.
Lisbon
07/07/07 18:20
A very relaxing day in Lisbon starting with a coffee in a popular cafe near the hotel in Belem. I treated myself to a copy of The Guardian to read over my coffee.
I have to say it. Having been in Portugal for a few weeks now the coffee does not compare well with that in Spain. I wonder why.
Then I took the train into town to check on the marina at Doca de Alcantara. I had been led to believe that berths were hard to come by in August. No problem. There were plenty of berths and the cost was the same as at Nazaré. Ah well! I could have left the boat here after all.
Later I wet into the city centre and had a drink in the Plaza da Figueira. At the bottom of Aveida da Libertade there is a beautifully restored art deco theatre facade which now fronts a hotel. The avenue itself is wide and tree lined. It leads from the city centre gently up hill to the large Parque Eduado VII.
I have to say it. Having been in Portugal for a few weeks now the coffee does not compare well with that in Spain. I wonder why.
Then I took the train into town to check on the marina at Doca de Alcantara. I had been led to believe that berths were hard to come by in August. No problem. There were plenty of berths and the cost was the same as at Nazaré. Ah well! I could have left the boat here after all.
Later I wet into the city centre and had a drink in the Plaza da Figueira. At the bottom of Aveida da Libertade there is a beautifully restored art deco theatre facade which now fronts a hotel. The avenue itself is wide and tree lined. It leads from the city centre gently up hill to the large Parque Eduado VII.
To Lisbon
06/07/07 18:19
Any early start. I finished cleaning the boat and stowing the foresails below.
Then it was time to leave. Although my case was not heavy it was quite a walk to into town and I was glad of my belated conversion to wheelie suitcases.
The bus to Lisbon left Nazaré at 12:25 and arrived at north Lisbon bus station around 15:00. A comfortable trip for the very reasonable fare of €8.30.
I then used the excellent Lisbon public transport system to make my way to Belem where I stayed at the Pensáo Residential Setubalense. Cheap and cheerful at €35.00 per night.
It was a lovely warm afternoon so I walked along the river and then into the centre of Lisbon. Not the wisest decision to wear my new flip flops on such a long walk and break-in blisters resulted.
Tagus Bridge
Blisters aside I had a good look around the city. It was warm and sunny and I liked the feel of the place.
Then it was time to leave. Although my case was not heavy it was quite a walk to into town and I was glad of my belated conversion to wheelie suitcases.
The bus to Lisbon left Nazaré at 12:25 and arrived at north Lisbon bus station around 15:00. A comfortable trip for the very reasonable fare of €8.30.
I then used the excellent Lisbon public transport system to make my way to Belem where I stayed at the Pensáo Residential Setubalense. Cheap and cheerful at €35.00 per night.
It was a lovely warm afternoon so I walked along the river and then into the centre of Lisbon. Not the wisest decision to wear my new flip flops on such a long walk and break-in blisters resulted.
Tagus Bridge
Blisters aside I had a good look around the city. It was warm and sunny and I liked the feel of the place.
Nazare
05/07/07 18:21
I have decided to take advantage of the availability of marine services in Nazaré to add an "A" frame onto the pushpit railing at Kiriwina's stern.
The present arrangements are rather cluttered and a frame will enable a variety of aerials and the Superwind to be mounted clear or the pushpit railings.
The day was spent taking down the Superwind wind generator and removing the pushpit. Fortunately everything went smoothly and the pushpit was taken away by the contractor. I hope he completes the work on time.
The present arrangements are rather cluttered and a frame will enable a variety of aerials and the Superwind to be mounted clear or the pushpit railings.
The day was spent taking down the Superwind wind generator and removing the pushpit. Fortunately everything went smoothly and the pushpit was taken away by the contractor. I hope he completes the work on time.
To Batalha
04/07/07 18:20
Took a trip today to the town of Batalha. The monastery there was built netween 1386 and 1517and is a Unesco world heritage site. The main buildings comprise a church and two cloisters.
It is a lovely building and has a museum which includes masonry and stained glass workshops where conservation work continues.
North wall of the church. Imperfect chapels.
Cloister of King Joao 1 with the church in the background.
Masonry detail including gargoyle.
Church viewed from the Cloister of King Joao 1.
Gargoyle.
Cloister of King Alfonso V.
Church interior.
Church main entrance.
A very large statue of King Joao 1 who defeated the Castilian army in the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385 and founded the monastery.
It is a lovely building and has a museum which includes masonry and stained glass workshops where conservation work continues.
North wall of the church. Imperfect chapels.
Cloister of King Joao 1 with the church in the background.
Masonry detail including gargoyle.
Church viewed from the Cloister of King Joao 1.
Gargoyle.
Cloister of King Alfonso V.
Church interior.
Church main entrance.
A very large statue of King Joao 1 who defeated the Castilian army in the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385 and founded the monastery.
Nazaré
02/07/07 18:19
The old town of Nazare is sited high up on the promontory that forms Punta da Nazaré. In the 18th century the sea level dropped and the town developed along the adjacent beach where the bulk of it now is.
It is about 2km from the marina to the town centre so the Brompton was very useful. Although there is a large fishing industry at Nazaré it appears to be predominately a tourist town with visitors attracted by the large beach. Many restaurant menus are in 5 languages, French, German, English, Spanish in addition to Portuguese.
The pilot book refers to the inhabitants having grey eyes and long straight noses indicating Phoenecian origin. Despite looking as closely as possible I saw little evidence of this.
View from the old town looking down at modern Nazaré and the huge beach with the harbour entrance in the distance.
It is about 2km from the marina to the town centre so the Brompton was very useful. Although there is a large fishing industry at Nazaré it appears to be predominately a tourist town with visitors attracted by the large beach. Many restaurant menus are in 5 languages, French, German, English, Spanish in addition to Portuguese.
The pilot book refers to the inhabitants having grey eyes and long straight noses indicating Phoenecian origin. Despite looking as closely as possible I saw little evidence of this.
View from the old town looking down at modern Nazaré and the huge beach with the harbour entrance in the distance.
Figueira da Foz to Nazaré
01/07/07 17:51
At 09:25 we left the marina at Figueira da Foz. Ten minutes later we exited the harbour in challenging conditions. Last night the sea was virtually calm but overnight a predicted 3m swell had arrived. The swell likely originated hundreds of miles away in one of the low pressure systems which are now causing unseasonable weather in the UK.
At sea a 3m swell is not really an issue but in 5m of water at a harbour entrance a 3m swells becomes a very steep and often breaking wave. There were breakers at each side of the entrance but not in the middle so we pressed on.
The seas were very steep and at one point I saw 1.4m on the depth guage (0.5m from being aground.) We continued and soon the water deepened though the seas remained steep and only flattened out to a big swell once we passed the 20m line. I heard that Figueira da Foz was closed later in the day.
We continued motorsailing down the coast but kept well offshore outside the 30m line. The swell was from the NW, causing a fairly rolly trip, but the wind was variable and rarely over 5knots.
Approaching Nazaré we rounded Punta da Nazaré where the swell was breaking spectacularly.
The southern face of Cabo Nazaré with its unusual rock formation. This continues downwards into an undersea canyon of great depth.
Once round Punta da Nazaré where the depth is 25m we crossed the undersea canyon at a depth of 160m. It then slowly shallowed to around 30m just short of the harbour entrance. The water depth in the canyon had the added effect of absorbing the ocean swells so that by the time the harbour was entered much of the swell had gone.
Any remaining swell was dissipated in the outer harbour so that by the time the inner harbour was reached it was virtually flat calm. A clever harbour design.
We were all fast in the marina at 16:55. Days run 33.9 miles. Marina Cost €17.50 per day.
At sea a 3m swell is not really an issue but in 5m of water at a harbour entrance a 3m swells becomes a very steep and often breaking wave. There were breakers at each side of the entrance but not in the middle so we pressed on.
The seas were very steep and at one point I saw 1.4m on the depth guage (0.5m from being aground.) We continued and soon the water deepened though the seas remained steep and only flattened out to a big swell once we passed the 20m line. I heard that Figueira da Foz was closed later in the day.
We continued motorsailing down the coast but kept well offshore outside the 30m line. The swell was from the NW, causing a fairly rolly trip, but the wind was variable and rarely over 5knots.
Approaching Nazaré we rounded Punta da Nazaré where the swell was breaking spectacularly.
The southern face of Cabo Nazaré with its unusual rock formation. This continues downwards into an undersea canyon of great depth.
Once round Punta da Nazaré where the depth is 25m we crossed the undersea canyon at a depth of 160m. It then slowly shallowed to around 30m just short of the harbour entrance. The water depth in the canyon had the added effect of absorbing the ocean swells so that by the time the harbour was entered much of the swell had gone.
Any remaining swell was dissipated in the outer harbour so that by the time the inner harbour was reached it was virtually flat calm. A clever harbour design.
We were all fast in the marina at 16:55. Days run 33.9 miles. Marina Cost €17.50 per day.