La Gomera

San Sebastian - Marina La Gomera

Our last day in the Canaries (and Europe).

It was spent checking the boat and ensuring all our gear was stowed properly. We had a small list to port leaving Tenerife. Shifting a few heavy items bought the boat upright. Kiriwina is the deepest in the water she has ever been. If we continue with this weight on board the waterline will have to be raised a few cm.

We made room for a large basket in the forepeak to keep fresh food in the dark.


The main halyard and all sheets were given a wash, rinse and dipped in fabric softener solution.

Marina La Gomera calculate charges on the actual dimensions of the vessel so our daily cost here was €11.80. They also issue clearance papers for the boat and crew but our passports were not stamped.

Tomorrow morning we will top up with fresh water and diesel and should be on our way by 10:00. The weather forecast is for E-NE winds F4 should will be just fine.

San Sebastian - Marina La Gomera

Early in the afternoon we went for a walk in Garonjay national park. This is a Laurel forest ecosystem of which only about 20% remains. Work is in hand to restore this system. Pine and eucalyptus plantations dating from the 1960's are being removed.

The path we took climbed to just under 1500m

A view east from Garonjay peak.


Hiking is a popular pastime on La Gomera and we passed large numbers of German hikers on the trail. On the way down Tomas rushed off ahead and took a wrong turn. After about and hour he found his way back to the car park.

We drove down a long valley to La Dama. There is a beach there but it looks as though the road down had collapsed some time ago stranding a bar and guesthouse on the beach.

Looking down on Playa La Dama


La Dama has quite a few banana plantations. We tried to buy some bananas but were told this was not possible. However if we came back in an hour they would give us some. We did and they did.

We then drove down Valle Gran Rey to the town of the same name on the SW coast. This was a lovely valley. Very deep and quite built up but nicely so.

Most visitors at Valle Gran Rey appeared to be German. It was a nice resort and not over developed. The adjacent harbour looked a good spot to anchor or moor alongside the quay although some swell worked its way in.



Anchorage off Valle Gran Rey harbour.


We lingered till sunset and were rewarded with a view of a larger sailing vessel silhouetted against El Hierro in the distance.

San Sebastian - Marina La Gomera

Marina La Gomera was very quiet this morning.

We stayed on board until mid afternoon when we went for a short drive over to Playa Santiago.

This was reached by via another spectacular switchback valley road.




Playa Santiago seemed a sleepy little place with a black sand beach and a small harbour. A large trimaran was anchored there but with the swell it didn't look a particularly comfortable spot.


We returned to San Sebastian via Alajero and enjoyed a set menu christmas dinner at the Parador Gomera overlooking San Sebastian harbour.

San Sebastian - Marina La Gomera

Our choice of car rental was again Cicar. At all the other islands they simply looked at our previous booking and gave us the same car and rate. Here they tried normal sleazoid car rental practices and tried to fob us off with a smaller car at the same rate. I objected to this and eventually they came into line. It was shame they had to try it on because up to now Cicar have looked after us well.

We set off towards Agulo on the north coast. La Gomera is a sort of squashed circle shape with a high forested area and a series of very deep and steep valleys running from the centre down to the sea. There is extensive terracing in the populated valleys and the built environment is generally sympathetic and well maintained.

A view up the valley from Agulo.


El Teide on Tenerife. Seen from a mirador at Agulo.


Much of the NW cost is not accessible by road. We drove to Vallehermose and down to the sea via Alojera to Playa de las Salinas. This was a tiny resort with a little black sand beach and a few restaurants.


We returned to San Sebastian across the middle of La Gomera skirting Garonjay national park with it's heavily forested deep valleys.


San Sebastian and the harbour seen from the west.

San Sebastian - Marina La Gomera

A nice sleep in today.

At 11:00 I went to the marina office to check in. It was suggested we move to a cheaper berth at G18 which we duly did at 11:40.

"Aphrodite" was lying a few berths along from us. We had last seen them at sea just off Fuerteventura when they rocketed past us. At the time we both took photos and it was nice to exchange the pictures as getting shots of one's yacht at sea is difficult.

"Kiriwina" at sea, 28th November 2007.

Varados Anaga, Tenerife to San Sebastian, La Gomera

I came on watch at 00:00. It was a lovely evening with a calm sea and full moon but negligible wind and we continued to motor sail.

As we neared the SE corner of Tenerife entertainment was provided by almost continuous aircraft traffic bound to and from
Reina Sofia Airport.

Around the corner and steering just north of west we had little wind but the seas were very short and steep making for a bouncy ride. Just after 07:00 the first fast ferry to la Gomera passed by.

By 10:00 a NNW F3-4 wind had sprung up and we were beating our way to San Sebastian with some assistance from the engine.

A snow capped El Teide which was obscured by cloud not long after this picture was taken.



At 11:30 with the wind gusting to 20 knots from the north we continued under staysail and the main with a single reef. The seas had become rougher and the deck got a good rinse with some spray reaching the cockpit.

Off San Sebastian at 13:50 we were met by a short rain squall. We started the engine and motored into the outer harbour where the main was dropped and lines prepared. We moored on the fuel berth at 14:15 at Marina La Gomera until the marineros returned from lunch at 15:00 and directed us to pontoon berth C12.

Marina La Gomera is a lovely spot and very sheltered. I was surprised that it was nearly full.