Portugal
Sines to Sagres Anchorage
05/08/07 16:41
Another early start saw us leave Sines marina at 08:10. It was a hazy morning with light SE winds forecast to veer to the NW and increase later in the day.
We passed the tanker "Stolt Strength" at anchor off Sines. A slightly nostalgic moment as in a former occupation I had extensive dealings with Stolt who, despite there Norwegian name, are based in Greenwich Connecticut.
From Sines it is a straight run down to Cabo Sao Vicente. As the day progressed the wind increased slowly such that at 18:40, after motor sailing all day, I turned the engine off and we continued under sail with main and yankee up in a NW wind 14-17 knots.
At 19:00 we rounded Cabo Sao Vicente and proceeded towards Ponte de Sagres with the wind gusting NW 23 knots.
Cabo Sao Vicente
We rounded Ponte de Sagres at 19:56 and proceeded into the Enseada de Sagres where we annchored in the NW corner in 5.0 metres with 20m of chain out. This spectacular anchorage had been suggested by Joseph on "Aurelia" and we were tucked away safely under tall cliffs as the wind gusted to NW F7 during the night.
Days Run: 60.38 (GPS) Passage Time: 12 hours.
We passed the tanker "Stolt Strength" at anchor off Sines. A slightly nostalgic moment as in a former occupation I had extensive dealings with Stolt who, despite there Norwegian name, are based in Greenwich Connecticut.
From Sines it is a straight run down to Cabo Sao Vicente. As the day progressed the wind increased slowly such that at 18:40, after motor sailing all day, I turned the engine off and we continued under sail with main and yankee up in a NW wind 14-17 knots.
At 19:00 we rounded Cabo Sao Vicente and proceeded towards Ponte de Sagres with the wind gusting NW 23 knots.
Cabo Sao Vicente
We rounded Ponte de Sagres at 19:56 and proceeded into the Enseada de Sagres where we annchored in the NW corner in 5.0 metres with 20m of chain out. This spectacular anchorage had been suggested by Joseph on "Aurelia" and we were tucked away safely under tall cliffs as the wind gusted to NW F7 during the night.
Days Run: 60.38 (GPS) Passage Time: 12 hours.
Cascais Anchorage to Sines
04/08/07 16:35
We got a reasonably early start weighing anchor at 07:40 but still behind the early birds on "Aurelia" who got away at around 07:30.
Once clear of the approaches to Lisbon at 09:00 we set course for Sines on 154˚ m. It was flat calm with visibility less than two miles.
At 11:42 we passed Cabo Espichel with visibility having improved somewhat though still hazy.
Dragonfly hitching a lift off the approaches to Lisbon.
A barren looking Cabo Espichel.
During the afternoon we saw several spectacular schools of dolphins with frequent out of the water acrobatics. There was also a steady stream of yachts heading north.
At 17:40 we passed Sines W Buoy and were all fast in Berth F11 at Sines Marina at 18:06.
Daily Run: 50.32 miles (GPS) Passage Time: 10hrs 16min. Marina Cost: €14.08 (very reasonable with good facilities)
A very full Sines marina viewed from the town above. We got the second last vacant berth.
Later in the evening I had a glass of wine aboard "Aurelia". They had arrived a couple of hours earlier than us. I suspect Kiriwina is suffering from an excess of marine growth around the waterline.
Once clear of the approaches to Lisbon at 09:00 we set course for Sines on 154˚ m. It was flat calm with visibility less than two miles.
At 11:42 we passed Cabo Espichel with visibility having improved somewhat though still hazy.
Dragonfly hitching a lift off the approaches to Lisbon.
A barren looking Cabo Espichel.
During the afternoon we saw several spectacular schools of dolphins with frequent out of the water acrobatics. There was also a steady stream of yachts heading north.
At 17:40 we passed Sines W Buoy and were all fast in Berth F11 at Sines Marina at 18:06.
Daily Run: 50.32 miles (GPS) Passage Time: 10hrs 16min. Marina Cost: €14.08 (very reasonable with good facilities)
A very full Sines marina viewed from the town above. We got the second last vacant berth.
Later in the evening I had a glass of wine aboard "Aurelia". They had arrived a couple of hours earlier than us. I suspect Kiriwina is suffering from an excess of marine growth around the waterline.
Nazaré to Cascais Anchorage
03/08/07 17:34
Up early for a quick shower and to collect my gate key deposit. We eventually left the berth at 08:15 and cleared Nazaré harbour at 08:30 with the main up and the log under reading by 50% (this was eventually solved by cleaning and re-aligning the impeller).
There was little wind and what there was was varied so we continued to motorsail in a 2m swell from the NE. I heard "Aurelia" on the VHF leaving at 09:00. She is a faster boat and would pass us at some point.
We continued to motorsail (emphasis on motor) during the morning and the wind increased to NNE 2 as we approached Cabo Carvoeiro. Would we benefit from the usual strong afternoon breezes on the Portuguese coast?
"Aurelia" dipping in a large swell as she overtook us.
Aurelia overtaking.
With "Aurelia" now past us and taking a noticeably more offshore course we rounded Cabo Carvoeiro at 13:00. As the afternoon progressed the wind then died away leaving us motoring in almost flat calm conditions with the swell having moderated noticeably once we rounded the cape.
Cabo Roca was passed at 18:45 and we continued to motorsail fairly close to the coast. "Aurelia" remained in sight but we closed the gap due to our having taken a more inshore course.
We rounded Cabo Raso and proceeded close inshore to Cascais where we anchored off the beach in 5.3m of water with 20m of chain in the water at 20:40. "Aurelia" had anchored about 30 minutes before. The anchorage was very crowded with noisy festivities ashore.
It had been a tiring first day out after my Italian break and I went to bed at 22:00 planning an early start.
Days Run 68.58 miles (GPS). Passage time 12hrs 25 min.
There was little wind and what there was was varied so we continued to motorsail in a 2m swell from the NE. I heard "Aurelia" on the VHF leaving at 09:00. She is a faster boat and would pass us at some point.
We continued to motorsail (emphasis on motor) during the morning and the wind increased to NNE 2 as we approached Cabo Carvoeiro. Would we benefit from the usual strong afternoon breezes on the Portuguese coast?
"Aurelia" dipping in a large swell as she overtook us.
Aurelia overtaking.
With "Aurelia" now past us and taking a noticeably more offshore course we rounded Cabo Carvoeiro at 13:00. As the afternoon progressed the wind then died away leaving us motoring in almost flat calm conditions with the swell having moderated noticeably once we rounded the cape.
Cabo Roca was passed at 18:45 and we continued to motorsail fairly close to the coast. "Aurelia" remained in sight but we closed the gap due to our having taken a more inshore course.
We rounded Cabo Raso and proceeded close inshore to Cascais where we anchored off the beach in 5.3m of water with 20m of chain in the water at 20:40. "Aurelia" had anchored about 30 minutes before. The anchorage was very crowded with noisy festivities ashore.
It had been a tiring first day out after my Italian break and I went to bed at 22:00 planning an early start.
Days Run 68.58 miles (GPS). Passage time 12hrs 25 min.
Nazaré
02/08/07 17:32
Up early and after a shower went straight over to the contractor to see what was happening with my "A" frame.
Not a lot! The tubing had only arrived yesterday and the first bends were being put in as I arrived. Not good news. They needed 4-5 days to compete the job. This was out of the question so I paid €100 for some of the tubing with the contractor retaining the rest and cancelled the job.
I think there was a genuine misunderstanding about the date of my return. I had originally said 20th July to build in a safety buffer but this was interpreted as 20th August. In any case it was academic as the steel did not arrive until 1st August and there was no way the job would have been done in time even had they got the date correct.
Picked up the pushpit and returned to the boat. I was surprised to see Joseph and Ingrid on "Aurelia" moored two fingers along the pontoon. I had travelled with them last year and knew they had arrived in Camarinas a few days earlier. They had only reached Nazaré late last night. It was good to see them again. They had had a tough trip down the channel but an uneventful Biscay crossing and no repeat of last years mechanical problems.
I spent the rest of the day re-fitting the pushpit and getting ready for sea. I hoped to leave tomorrow morning. When it came time to pay the marina bill I had spent the month of July and the evenings of the 1st and 2nd of August in the marina. Departure was planned for 07:30 on the morning of the 3rd.
By my reckoning I owed them one month at the monthly rate and two days at the daily rate. However the marina manager insisted I had to pay for three days in August despite leaving at 07:30 on the 3rd. I failed to see the logic of this but then, they do things differently in Portugal
By late in the evening everything was ready for a morning departure.
Not a lot! The tubing had only arrived yesterday and the first bends were being put in as I arrived. Not good news. They needed 4-5 days to compete the job. This was out of the question so I paid €100 for some of the tubing with the contractor retaining the rest and cancelled the job.
I think there was a genuine misunderstanding about the date of my return. I had originally said 20th July to build in a safety buffer but this was interpreted as 20th August. In any case it was academic as the steel did not arrive until 1st August and there was no way the job would have been done in time even had they got the date correct.
Picked up the pushpit and returned to the boat. I was surprised to see Joseph and Ingrid on "Aurelia" moored two fingers along the pontoon. I had travelled with them last year and knew they had arrived in Camarinas a few days earlier. They had only reached Nazaré late last night. It was good to see them again. They had had a tough trip down the channel but an uneventful Biscay crossing and no repeat of last years mechanical problems.
I spent the rest of the day re-fitting the pushpit and getting ready for sea. I hoped to leave tomorrow morning. When it came time to pay the marina bill I had spent the month of July and the evenings of the 1st and 2nd of August in the marina. Departure was planned for 07:30 on the morning of the 3rd.
By my reckoning I owed them one month at the monthly rate and two days at the daily rate. However the marina manager insisted I had to pay for three days in August despite leaving at 07:30 on the 3rd. I failed to see the logic of this but then, they do things differently in Portugal
By late in the evening everything was ready for a morning departure.
UK to Nazaré
01/08/07 17:30
A long day spent travelling.
Got up reasonably early to leave Tranquility Base in Gloucestershire and catch a coach from Cheltenham to Heathrow at 09:10. No problems and arrived on time just after 11:00.
It was only a short walk to Terminal 2 from the bus station. At checkin TAP slugged me for a baggage overweight charge of £45 almost half the fare. Ah well, such is the cost of lower fares. Cheap upfront cost and work the small print to enhance margins.
The flight was on time and after a longish wait for baggage in Lisbon I got a taxi to the bus station. My driver was quite the entrepreneur. He was convinced that it would be far better if he drove me to Nazaré. He even phoned the bus station to enquire about departure times. There was only one more coach today he told me and it left at 19:00.
Cost of his proposed taxi ride to Nazaré €130. Cost of coach fare €8.30. Hmm, other than arriving about 90 minutes earlier the benefit to me was not apparent. Once at the bus station and miffed at my refusal of his generous offer my driver insisted I pay him an extra Euro to cover the cost of his unsolicited mobile phone call. Things are different in Portugal.
I caught the bus which arrived in Nazaré on time and I was back on board at around 21:40. Mike, the harbour master, was still around and mentioned that there was a problem with my "A" frame. Apparently not a lot had happened. we shall see tomorrow.
Got up reasonably early to leave Tranquility Base in Gloucestershire and catch a coach from Cheltenham to Heathrow at 09:10. No problems and arrived on time just after 11:00.
It was only a short walk to Terminal 2 from the bus station. At checkin TAP slugged me for a baggage overweight charge of £45 almost half the fare. Ah well, such is the cost of lower fares. Cheap upfront cost and work the small print to enhance margins.
The flight was on time and after a longish wait for baggage in Lisbon I got a taxi to the bus station. My driver was quite the entrepreneur. He was convinced that it would be far better if he drove me to Nazaré. He even phoned the bus station to enquire about departure times. There was only one more coach today he told me and it left at 19:00.
Cost of his proposed taxi ride to Nazaré €130. Cost of coach fare €8.30. Hmm, other than arriving about 90 minutes earlier the benefit to me was not apparent. Once at the bus station and miffed at my refusal of his generous offer my driver insisted I pay him an extra Euro to cover the cost of his unsolicited mobile phone call. Things are different in Portugal.
I caught the bus which arrived in Nazaré on time and I was back on board at around 21:40. Mike, the harbour master, was still around and mentioned that there was a problem with my "A" frame. Apparently not a lot had happened. we shall see tomorrow.