Aug 2007
Puerto Sherry
31/08/07 14:17 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
A full day working on the boat.
First up was to route and insulate the last 2 feet of the Superwind cable.
Pretty straight forward but the cable gland was a bit fiddly.
Then the instrument and aerial cables which had been disrupted when the A frame was installed were coiled and tied away.
Brackets to hold the Danbuoy were fitted to the A frame.
When arriving at a port the Danbuoy can be put away and the clips used to hold the boat hook ready for immediate use.
Back in Porto, when the fender board was last used in anger, my idea of supporting it with insulated rope was found wanting. When the board rubbed against the quay the insulation chafed through very quickly.
The correct way to mount fender boards is to drill a hole through the board, feed a rope through the hole and secure it with a stopper knot. This way the supporting ropes never touch the quay. This should have been straight forward but my drill bit was not long enough so it was a hole from each side to meet in the middle. Or not in my case. A bit of fiddling about but I got there in the end.
Fender board support rope.
Still no deliveries.
First up was to route and insulate the last 2 feet of the Superwind cable.
Pretty straight forward but the cable gland was a bit fiddly.
Then the instrument and aerial cables which had been disrupted when the A frame was installed were coiled and tied away.
Brackets to hold the Danbuoy were fitted to the A frame.
When arriving at a port the Danbuoy can be put away and the clips used to hold the boat hook ready for immediate use.
Back in Porto, when the fender board was last used in anger, my idea of supporting it with insulated rope was found wanting. When the board rubbed against the quay the insulation chafed through very quickly.
The correct way to mount fender boards is to drill a hole through the board, feed a rope through the hole and secure it with a stopper knot. This way the supporting ropes never touch the quay. This should have been straight forward but my drill bit was not long enough so it was a hole from each side to meet in the middle. Or not in my case. A bit of fiddling about but I got there in the end.
Fender board support rope.
Still no deliveries.
To Cadiz
30/08/07 14:57 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
An early call from the chart agent let me know that my Moroccan charts were ready for collection.
I caught the hydrofoil across and again cycled the length of Cadiz. This time down the wide tree lined Avenue de Andalucia.
The charts will be interesting to use for GPS navigation. The 7 charts I purchased use 3 different datum so on all but one I will have to make corrections to GPS positions before plotting them.
Returning to the ferry I cycled up Avenida Juan Carlos 1 and passed through Puerta de Terra in the old city wall of Cadiz.
I was back in Puerto Sherry by 14:00 and called in at the marina office to check for deliveries. There were none but the duty clerk, Carlos, was very snippy and insisted that I pay immediately despite the fact that we will not be leaving until tuesday or wednesday.
I caught the hydrofoil across and again cycled the length of Cadiz. This time down the wide tree lined Avenue de Andalucia.
The charts will be interesting to use for GPS navigation. The 7 charts I purchased use 3 different datum so on all but one I will have to make corrections to GPS positions before plotting them.
Returning to the ferry I cycled up Avenida Juan Carlos 1 and passed through Puerta de Terra in the old city wall of Cadiz.
I was back in Puerto Sherry by 14:00 and called in at the marina office to check for deliveries. There were none but the duty clerk, Carlos, was very snippy and insisted that I pay immediately despite the fact that we will not be leaving until tuesday or wednesday.
Playa de Santa Catalina
29/08/07 15:11 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
I spent the morning catching up on a variety of small jobs around the boat and visited Velas Climent who have a workshop on the other side of the marina. I wanted to enquire about having a sun awning made.
They were very helpful and quoted €360 for the job saying they would have it ready by next monday. We shall see. Later they sent someone round to check the measurements and layout.
Later I went for an old fashioned afternoon at the beach on Playa de Santa Catalina a couple of kilometres up the bay towards Rota. The sand and water were very warm but the water was quite murky with low visibility. Not too good for snorkelling.
I spent some time body surfing in the small waves, something I had not done for a very long time, and just as I was about to leave the water a slightly larger wave threw me about such that my mask and one fin became detached. It took 45 minutes and a lot of wading through the shallows before I finally found them about 150m further down the beach.
They were very helpful and quoted €360 for the job saying they would have it ready by next monday. We shall see. Later they sent someone round to check the measurements and layout.
Later I went for an old fashioned afternoon at the beach on Playa de Santa Catalina a couple of kilometres up the bay towards Rota. The sand and water were very warm but the water was quite murky with low visibility. Not too good for snorkelling.
I spent some time body surfing in the small waves, something I had not done for a very long time, and just as I was about to leave the water a slightly larger wave threw me about such that my mask and one fin became detached. It took 45 minutes and a lot of wading through the shallows before I finally found them about 150m further down the beach.
Puerto Sherry
28/08/07 15:25 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
More odd jobs today including a good hose down of the boat.
The rain we had at the weekend came from the south east as did the wind for a day or two. This wind carried a fine reddish dust which was now spread over the deck and gear. I had wondered why many boat owners here hosed their boats down every few days. Now I knew.
I have decided to replace only the engine starting battery, which is not charging well, with a Magneti Marelli 100A/H sealed lead acid battery. The house batteries are still in pretty good shape.
I also inserted a second valve into the galley sink drain pipe. At sea, in other than calm conditions, there is splashback if the through hull valve is left open. However to close it requires that the undersink locker be emptied to gain access. The new valve is easily accessed and can be operated at sea without difficulty.
The rain we had at the weekend came from the south east as did the wind for a day or two. This wind carried a fine reddish dust which was now spread over the deck and gear. I had wondered why many boat owners here hosed their boats down every few days. Now I knew.
I have decided to replace only the engine starting battery, which is not charging well, with a Magneti Marelli 100A/H sealed lead acid battery. The house batteries are still in pretty good shape.
I also inserted a second valve into the galley sink drain pipe. At sea, in other than calm conditions, there is splashback if the through hull valve is left open. However to close it requires that the undersink locker be emptied to gain access. The new valve is easily accessed and can be operated at sea without difficulty.
To Cadiz
27/08/07 15:45 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
Now that we have decided to visit Morocco en route to the Canaries it has become necessary to acquire the appropriate charts. The best option is to purchase the appropriate charts issued by the Instituto Hydrographico de la Marina conveniently located in Cadiz. However they do not deal with the public and the charts will haved to be purchased from and agent.
I caught the hydrofoil to Cadiz where a visit to the tourist office produced a map and directions to J.L. Gandara y Cia. Their office turned out to be in an industrial area at the southern edge of the city near the bridge to the mainland.It was a long bicycle ride and unfortunately they had no Moroccan charts in stock. They will have to be ordered but should take no longer than two days. I decided to do some more research before ordering.
On the way back I cycled along the spectacular sea front past Playa de la Victoria and Playa Santa Maria del Mar. Thereafter the sea came right up to a massive sea wall which continued up to a causeway leading to Castillo San Sebastian about 300 metres offshore at the north western corner of Cadiz.
Castillo San sebastian with it's lighthouse.
Looking north from Castillo San Sebastian towards Puerto Sherry.
I continued around the northern edge of Cadiz passing Antiguo Hospital de Mora and through Parque Genovés and he Almeda Marqués de Comillas.
A magnificient tree next to the Antiguo Hospital de Mora
Almeda Marqués de Comillas.
Fountain in Almeda Marqués de Comillas.
Then I cycled out to the marina at Puerto America. I plan to visit next week. This marina is undergoing improvements and has many new pontoons. It looks as though the older shore facilities will shortly be replaced. The cost for Kiriwina would be around €15 per night, about half the rate at Puerto Sherry.
Entrance to Puerto America taken from the El Puerto de Santa Maria ferry.
When I got back to the ferry terminal I had cycled around the perimeter of Cadiz. I then caught the ferry back to El Puerto de Santa Maria.
I caught the hydrofoil to Cadiz where a visit to the tourist office produced a map and directions to J.L. Gandara y Cia. Their office turned out to be in an industrial area at the southern edge of the city near the bridge to the mainland.It was a long bicycle ride and unfortunately they had no Moroccan charts in stock. They will have to be ordered but should take no longer than two days. I decided to do some more research before ordering.
On the way back I cycled along the spectacular sea front past Playa de la Victoria and Playa Santa Maria del Mar. Thereafter the sea came right up to a massive sea wall which continued up to a causeway leading to Castillo San Sebastian about 300 metres offshore at the north western corner of Cadiz.
Castillo San sebastian with it's lighthouse.
Looking north from Castillo San Sebastian towards Puerto Sherry.
I continued around the northern edge of Cadiz passing Antiguo Hospital de Mora and through Parque Genovés and he Almeda Marqués de Comillas.
A magnificient tree next to the Antiguo Hospital de Mora
Almeda Marqués de Comillas.
Fountain in Almeda Marqués de Comillas.
Then I cycled out to the marina at Puerto America. I plan to visit next week. This marina is undergoing improvements and has many new pontoons. It looks as though the older shore facilities will shortly be replaced. The cost for Kiriwina would be around €15 per night, about half the rate at Puerto Sherry.
Entrance to Puerto America taken from the El Puerto de Santa Maria ferry.
When I got back to the ferry terminal I had cycled around the perimeter of Cadiz. I then caught the ferry back to El Puerto de Santa Maria.
Puerto Sherry
25/08/07 15:50 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
I was woken by the sound of very heavy rain on the cabin roof at around 07:30. This was a full on thunderstorm and lasted for about an hour with strong SW winds.
Later at around 10:30 the clouds had passed and normal service was resumed. The sun was out and I decided to have a wander about town and buy a ticket to the bullfight.
On the way into town the road leading to the marina was flooded from the earlier storm.
The Iglesia Major Prioral in Plaza de España. This was originally built in 1486 though it has been modified over the centuries.
An external shot of the Tomas Nitri Flamenco Club I visited two weeks ago. There will be another show tonight.
Just around the corner the Parish church of San Joaquin
Then on to the Plaza de Toros to book a ticket but I was too late. The last bullfight of the season took place last week.
Sculpture outside the Plaza.
The Plaza was built in 1880. Front entance with another sculpture.
I was in a supermarket when the heavens open again. Not wanting to get soaked I had a coffee and waited. This was really heavy rain and quite a contrast to the weather over the past few weeks.
The storm drains were unable to cope.
After waiting an an hour and a half I took a run for it when the rain eased. The easing was temporary and I was completely soaked on the short ride back to the boat.
Later at around 10:30 the clouds had passed and normal service was resumed. The sun was out and I decided to have a wander about town and buy a ticket to the bullfight.
On the way into town the road leading to the marina was flooded from the earlier storm.
The Iglesia Major Prioral in Plaza de España. This was originally built in 1486 though it has been modified over the centuries.
An external shot of the Tomas Nitri Flamenco Club I visited two weeks ago. There will be another show tonight.
Just around the corner the Parish church of San Joaquin
Then on to the Plaza de Toros to book a ticket but I was too late. The last bullfight of the season took place last week.
Sculpture outside the Plaza.
The Plaza was built in 1880. Front entance with another sculpture.
I was in a supermarket when the heavens open again. Not wanting to get soaked I had a coffee and waited. This was really heavy rain and quite a contrast to the weather over the past few weeks.
The storm drains were unable to cope.
After waiting an an hour and a half I took a run for it when the rain eased. The easing was temporary and I was completely soaked on the short ride back to the boat.
Puerto Sherry
24/08/07 16:30 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
I had to stay on board this morning. Juan was due to complete the A Frame and I was to interview a prospective crew member for the next leg of the trip.
Tomas from Extremadura arrived to have a chat and look over the boat. Shortly afterwards Juan arrived and very quickly adjusted the Superwind mount so that it was pretty much vertical. He has done a good job for a reasonable price. His design of A frame has the merit of being completely reversible so that if necessary it could be easily removed and the boat returned to standard specification. If stainless steel fabrication in this area is required Juan at Talleres Paes (Telephone +34 956 873 077) is worth a call. He speaks only Spanish.
Afterwards Tomas and I had lunch and a long chat. I think he would be a welcome addition to the crew and his presence should improve my Spanish. We part with the intention that he will come aboard early in September.
During the afternoon the wind increased steadily and at around 17:30 we had a very heavy rain shower lasting about half an hour. The first rain since we arrived.
Tomas from Extremadura arrived to have a chat and look over the boat. Shortly afterwards Juan arrived and very quickly adjusted the Superwind mount so that it was pretty much vertical. He has done a good job for a reasonable price. His design of A frame has the merit of being completely reversible so that if necessary it could be easily removed and the boat returned to standard specification. If stainless steel fabrication in this area is required Juan at Talleres Paes (Telephone +34 956 873 077) is worth a call. He speaks only Spanish.
Afterwards Tomas and I had lunch and a long chat. I think he would be a welcome addition to the crew and his presence should improve my Spanish. We part with the intention that he will come aboard early in September.
During the afternoon the wind increased steadily and at around 17:30 we had a very heavy rain shower lasting about half an hour. The first rain since we arrived.
Puerto Sherry
23/08/07 14:34 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
I continued on from yesterday. The wiring for the Superwind needed to be reconnected. When it was removed in Nazaré I had to cut it. Absent any long wire I will have to make a join. Not ideal but necessary.
It was necessary to drill a routing hole in the Superwind mount which took quite a while with my cheapo B&Q £28 battery drill and bits. Once the hole was cut the wire was quickly routed through the A Frame tubing and reconnected. The Superwind then worked just fine and if anything even quieter than before with minimal vibration. The weather turned on some strongish winds today SE F5-6), perfect for testing.
Just before lunch Juan arrived with two bracing struts which he quickly fitted. The A Frame is now as rigid as I can reasonably get it. A very pleasing result. Juan also says he can make an adjusting chock to level the Superwind and will bring it tomorrow.
With the struts fitted access over the stern is restricted but no more than before and all the aerials are safely out of the way.
Superwind in operation on braced A Frame.
Complete A Frame with bracing struts fitted.
This week it is the 36th Semana Nautica in Puerto Sherry. Later in the afternoon there was a yacht race in Cadiz bay. The winds were still SE F5-6, pretty good for some robust racing. I downed tools to go and watch. Most of the racing photos were taken with Cadiz in the background.
The yachts did a triangle round Cadiz bay then did a long leg towards Rota. While waiting for them to return I went for a walk along the popular Puerto Sherry beach.
Completed villas adjacent to the beach. This resort was never completed and there are many villas and a hotel where only the frames were erected.
Old city walls destroyed by an earthquake. Actually, I think it was damaged by a tsunami from the 1755 Lisbon earthquake but I'm not certain.
The leading yacht as they approached the finish off Puerto Sherry.
And the second yacht which had a British, sail number.
Close racing further down the field
Very close racing at the end. These three crossed the line almost as one.
This yacht has been moored a couple of boats down the pontoon for about a week. All the other boats motored back into the Marina. This skipper powered back in under full mainsail, proudly displaying his sponsors logo (Real estate company Fadesa, owners of Ceuta and Saidia marinas), then smartly rounded up in the turning area before dropping the sail and motoring back to his berth. I was impressed. He got a second place in the race as well.
It was necessary to drill a routing hole in the Superwind mount which took quite a while with my cheapo B&Q £28 battery drill and bits. Once the hole was cut the wire was quickly routed through the A Frame tubing and reconnected. The Superwind then worked just fine and if anything even quieter than before with minimal vibration. The weather turned on some strongish winds today SE F5-6), perfect for testing.
Just before lunch Juan arrived with two bracing struts which he quickly fitted. The A Frame is now as rigid as I can reasonably get it. A very pleasing result. Juan also says he can make an adjusting chock to level the Superwind and will bring it tomorrow.
With the struts fitted access over the stern is restricted but no more than before and all the aerials are safely out of the way.
Superwind in operation on braced A Frame.
Complete A Frame with bracing struts fitted.
This week it is the 36th Semana Nautica in Puerto Sherry. Later in the afternoon there was a yacht race in Cadiz bay. The winds were still SE F5-6, pretty good for some robust racing. I downed tools to go and watch. Most of the racing photos were taken with Cadiz in the background.
The yachts did a triangle round Cadiz bay then did a long leg towards Rota. While waiting for them to return I went for a walk along the popular Puerto Sherry beach.
Completed villas adjacent to the beach. This resort was never completed and there are many villas and a hotel where only the frames were erected.
Old city walls destroyed by an earthquake. Actually, I think it was damaged by a tsunami from the 1755 Lisbon earthquake but I'm not certain.
The leading yacht as they approached the finish off Puerto Sherry.
And the second yacht which had a British, sail number.
Close racing further down the field
Very close racing at the end. These three crossed the line almost as one.
This yacht has been moored a couple of boats down the pontoon for about a week. All the other boats motored back into the Marina. This skipper powered back in under full mainsail, proudly displaying his sponsors logo (Real estate company Fadesa, owners of Ceuta and Saidia marinas), then smartly rounded up in the turning area before dropping the sail and motoring back to his berth. I was impressed. He got a second place in the race as well.
Puerto Sherry
22/08/07 17:19 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
After breakfast I got stuck into some cleaning jobs. The topsides needed attention to remove accumulated scuffs and stains and the teak grabrails require sanding and oiling.
After about an hour of this Juan arrived with the "A Frame" for final fitting. It went on perfectly but will need two bracing struts to ensure rigidity. Juan says he will bring these tomorrow.
"A Frame" with Superwind installed.
Lower portion of "A Frame"
I spent the rest of the day repositioning aerials for the Navtex, GPS, VHF DSC, and HF Radio. All were placed so that they will not be knocked during mooring or when climbing over the stern. It will now be possible to position the "Horseshoe" lifebuoy higher out of harms way and to mount the boathook where it is readily accessible.
Later when I have a sun awning made the "A Frame" will provide perfect rear attachment points. I noticed that the lines of the "A Frame" follow the existing pushpit. This means that the top slopes slightly downwards and forward from the stern. This means the Superwind is not quite level. I will point this out to Juan tomorrow.
After about an hour of this Juan arrived with the "A Frame" for final fitting. It went on perfectly but will need two bracing struts to ensure rigidity. Juan says he will bring these tomorrow.
"A Frame" with Superwind installed.
Lower portion of "A Frame"
I spent the rest of the day repositioning aerials for the Navtex, GPS, VHF DSC, and HF Radio. All were placed so that they will not be knocked during mooring or when climbing over the stern. It will now be possible to position the "Horseshoe" lifebuoy higher out of harms way and to mount the boathook where it is readily accessible.
Later when I have a sun awning made the "A Frame" will provide perfect rear attachment points. I noticed that the lines of the "A Frame" follow the existing pushpit. This means that the top slopes slightly downwards and forward from the stern. This means the Superwind is not quite level. I will point this out to Juan tomorrow.
Puerto Sherry
21/08/07 14:06 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
This morning the marina office was able to contact the distributor of Trojan batteries. The price was almost 50% higher than in the UK. A promise was made to call back with a firm quote and delivery date. There was no call back.
Meantime, careful measurement of the battery box on Kiriwina showed that fitting the Trojan batteries would be a real squeeze. I tested the batteries again and while the house batteries were within acceptable limits the starter battery was below par. If a suitable type can be sourced I will replace just the starter battery.
Today my new cockpit table was installed and the remaining LED dome light installed. I still need to get another two LED clusters from Bebi.
Teak cockpit table with adjustable mounting.
A cooler day today with a strongish NW breeze for most of the day.
Meantime, careful measurement of the battery box on Kiriwina showed that fitting the Trojan batteries would be a real squeeze. I tested the batteries again and while the house batteries were within acceptable limits the starter battery was below par. If a suitable type can be sourced I will replace just the starter battery.
Today my new cockpit table was installed and the remaining LED dome light installed. I still need to get another two LED clusters from Bebi.
Teak cockpit table with adjustable mounting.
A cooler day today with a strongish NW breeze for most of the day.
To Jerez
20/08/07 14:51 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
First call this morning was at the marina office to see whether the battery supplier in Alicante could be contacted. They couldn't so I will have to try again tomorrow.
Meantime I decided to have a tourism day and visit Jerez. Not wanting to leave the Brompton at the station all day I decided to catch a bus into El Puerto de Santa Maria. Contrary to what the pilot books say there are no buses calling at Puerto Sherry. The nearest stop is about a mile and a half away. I left the boat at 10:00 and got to the station at El Puerto at 11:20. It would have been quicker to walk straight there.
The Renfe train to Jerez de la Frontera (to use the full name) takes about 10-15 minutes and costs €1.95. Good value for a very good service. The station at El Puerto is being rebuilt. Jerez station is lovely with a beautiful facade which will shortly be over shadowed by a large new building being erected accross the road.
Jerez station facade
Jerez station - detail southern end.
Jerez station - detail facade arches.
Jerez station - interior detail.
It was about a 15 minute walk into the town centre. Jerez did not seem that big but it is very well kept with a very attractive built environment. First stop after a coffee on the way in was Plaza del Arenal, a large open square, with a statue and fountain in the centre, surrounded by a variety of buildings. Some nice some less so.
Plaza del Arenal
Much of the town centre is pedestrianised and closely built so I was usually able to walk in the shade. Two of the big houses involved in the Jerez sherry trade were ones I saw in Porto, Sandeman and Harveys.
Edificio Domeq on Plaza Esteve.
I called at the tourist office for a map and my walk continued more or less along the recommended blue route.
Palacio Domeq near Plaza Marmelón.
Por Vera Larga is a long wide and shady tree lined street. I had lunch here at La Cepa de Oro.
The buses in Jerez are mostly pink!
Fountain at Rotunda de Los Casinos.
Tiled entrance to Hostal San Miguel.
Iglesia San Miguel which is being restored.
Partly eroded gargoyle on Iglesia San Miguel.
Teatro Villamarta near Plaza Esteve
Casa Perez Lunes built in 1777 and sitiuated on Plaza Rafael Riveiro.
The doorway and balcony above are a feature of this building.
A water pump near Iglesia San Marcos.
Plaza de la Ascuncion.
Jerez Cathedral
On a plaza next to Jerez cathedral is a fine statue of the founder of Bodegas Gonzalvez.
The bodegas being situated on the other side of the plaza. Further down on the same
plaza at a lower level, which I thought quite humerous, is a recent statue of
Pope John Paul just visible near the centre of the photo....
......there he is.
According to the tourist office map Jerez is considered the "birthplace" of Flamenco. Considered by whom I wonder. It would be interesting to know what the rest of Andalucia think.
I caught the train back to El Puerto around 17:30. I liked Jerez. It was well worth the visit and it would have been easy to spend a couple of days there.
Meantime I decided to have a tourism day and visit Jerez. Not wanting to leave the Brompton at the station all day I decided to catch a bus into El Puerto de Santa Maria. Contrary to what the pilot books say there are no buses calling at Puerto Sherry. The nearest stop is about a mile and a half away. I left the boat at 10:00 and got to the station at El Puerto at 11:20. It would have been quicker to walk straight there.
The Renfe train to Jerez de la Frontera (to use the full name) takes about 10-15 minutes and costs €1.95. Good value for a very good service. The station at El Puerto is being rebuilt. Jerez station is lovely with a beautiful facade which will shortly be over shadowed by a large new building being erected accross the road.
Jerez station facade
Jerez station - detail southern end.
Jerez station - detail facade arches.
Jerez station - interior detail.
It was about a 15 minute walk into the town centre. Jerez did not seem that big but it is very well kept with a very attractive built environment. First stop after a coffee on the way in was Plaza del Arenal, a large open square, with a statue and fountain in the centre, surrounded by a variety of buildings. Some nice some less so.
Plaza del Arenal
Much of the town centre is pedestrianised and closely built so I was usually able to walk in the shade. Two of the big houses involved in the Jerez sherry trade were ones I saw in Porto, Sandeman and Harveys.
Edificio Domeq on Plaza Esteve.
I called at the tourist office for a map and my walk continued more or less along the recommended blue route.
Palacio Domeq near Plaza Marmelón.
Por Vera Larga is a long wide and shady tree lined street. I had lunch here at La Cepa de Oro.
The buses in Jerez are mostly pink!
Fountain at Rotunda de Los Casinos.
Tiled entrance to Hostal San Miguel.
Iglesia San Miguel which is being restored.
Partly eroded gargoyle on Iglesia San Miguel.
Teatro Villamarta near Plaza Esteve
Casa Perez Lunes built in 1777 and sitiuated on Plaza Rafael Riveiro.
The doorway and balcony above are a feature of this building.
A water pump near Iglesia San Marcos.
Plaza de la Ascuncion.
Jerez Cathedral
On a plaza next to Jerez cathedral is a fine statue of the founder of Bodegas Gonzalvez.
The bodegas being situated on the other side of the plaza. Further down on the same
plaza at a lower level, which I thought quite humerous, is a recent statue of
Pope John Paul just visible near the centre of the photo....
......there he is.
According to the tourist office map Jerez is considered the "birthplace" of Flamenco. Considered by whom I wonder. It would be interesting to know what the rest of Andalucia think.
I caught the train back to El Puerto around 17:30. I liked Jerez. It was well worth the visit and it would have been easy to spend a couple of days there.
Puerto Sherry
19/08/07 04:28 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
Another hot and sunny day in Andalucia. It has been like this for over two weeks with some light showers in Seville the only change.
Here on the coast there are usually afternoon breezes providing a cooling effect but the daytime cabin temperature varies betwwen 75˚f and 90˚. High but not unpleasant with some air movement. It is in this sort of environment that one really appreciates the 8 opening cabin windows on Kiriwina.
After a morning coffee ashore I decided to bring the site up to date and tidy the boat. Over time one accumulates non essential items which must be ruthlessly culled. Space on a small boat is limited.
The cafe at Puerto Sherry
Here on the coast there are usually afternoon breezes providing a cooling effect but the daytime cabin temperature varies betwwen 75˚f and 90˚. High but not unpleasant with some air movement. It is in this sort of environment that one really appreciates the 8 opening cabin windows on Kiriwina.
After a morning coffee ashore I decided to bring the site up to date and tidy the boat. Over time one accumulates non essential items which must be ruthlessly culled. Space on a small boat is limited.
The cafe at Puerto Sherry
Puerto Sherry
18/08/07 04:29 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
I decided to cycle into town fairly early for a visit to Talleres PaEs. My experimental LED conversion of one cabin dome light from halogen was a complete success and I have decided to convert the remaining three.
Juan was very accommodating and quickly drilled the three remaining aluminium light bases in the same manner as the first. His workshop is not large but contains a variety of modern computer controlled machinery as well as lathes and drills. There are three others working there and it looks as though Talleres PaEs can make pretty much anything in stainless steel.
My new "A" frame is almost complete with only final welding and wind generator support flanges awaiting completion.
I stopped by the internet cafe on the way back. It looks as though the Canary Islands Pilot book I ordered has been sent to my UK adress and not to the marina here as requested.
On route back to the boat I stopped for a quick lunch of tomato salad with grilled sardines at Chiringuito El Moro. Tasty but not so quick as the sardines require an almost forensic dissection skills to separate the flesh from the delicate bone structure.
Back on the boat it is very hot with only a light breeze. After the late afternoon heat has passed I retrieved Kiriwini from the water for a good hose down and scrub before deflation and stowage. There has been another oil spill and Kiriwini has picked up a gooey slick at the waterline.
Juan was very accommodating and quickly drilled the three remaining aluminium light bases in the same manner as the first. His workshop is not large but contains a variety of modern computer controlled machinery as well as lathes and drills. There are three others working there and it looks as though Talleres PaEs can make pretty much anything in stainless steel.
My new "A" frame is almost complete with only final welding and wind generator support flanges awaiting completion.
I stopped by the internet cafe on the way back. It looks as though the Canary Islands Pilot book I ordered has been sent to my UK adress and not to the marina here as requested.
On route back to the boat I stopped for a quick lunch of tomato salad with grilled sardines at Chiringuito El Moro. Tasty but not so quick as the sardines require an almost forensic dissection skills to separate the flesh from the delicate bone structure.
Back on the boat it is very hot with only a light breeze. After the late afternoon heat has passed I retrieved Kiriwini from the water for a good hose down and scrub before deflation and stowage. There has been another oil spill and Kiriwini has picked up a gooey slick at the waterline.
Puerto Sherry
17/08/07 04:30 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
During the morning Juan from Talleres PaEs arrived with my new "A" frame tack welded and ready for final adjustments. Unlike earlier proposals this "A" frame will be secured to the pushpit by four clamps. This has the advantage of easy removal if required but I have some concern about rigidity, particularly once the Superwind is fitted. I suspect some extra bracing may be required.
However, it fits perfectly after and after checking clearances for the Superwind Juan departs saying the frame should be ready for final fitting next Tuesday.
After some research I have concluded that sealed "Gel" batteries are not the way to go. They are eywateringly expensive and apart from their sealed specification offer minimal operational advantages for the price. It seems that Trojan 105 6V wet lead-acid batteries are the best way to go for long term cruising. Sterling Power Products who supplied the battery charging equipment on Kiriwina have avery succinct and compelling summary on their website.
Six x 6v batteries would have to be wired in series thus equating to 3 x12v batteries. None of the chandlers in Puerto Sherry are able to source these batteries but the duty receptionist at the marina office confirms with one phone call that they are available in Alicante. The next question, which cannot be answered until monday it now being late on friday, is how much do they cost and how do I get them to Puerto Sherry.
Marina Office (Inside the lighthouse) at Puerto Sherry with replica Caravel in the foreground.
Back on board I climbed into Kiriwini and resumed cleaning marine growth from Kiriwina's waterline. After a couple of hours it was all removed. The water here is quite murky so I cannot assess the condition of the underwater hull. By feel it seems that growth is mainly confined to slime apart from one of two patches where the antifoul was applied too thinly.
However, it fits perfectly after and after checking clearances for the Superwind Juan departs saying the frame should be ready for final fitting next Tuesday.
After some research I have concluded that sealed "Gel" batteries are not the way to go. They are eywateringly expensive and apart from their sealed specification offer minimal operational advantages for the price. It seems that Trojan 105 6V wet lead-acid batteries are the best way to go for long term cruising. Sterling Power Products who supplied the battery charging equipment on Kiriwina have avery succinct and compelling summary on their website.
Six x 6v batteries would have to be wired in series thus equating to 3 x12v batteries. None of the chandlers in Puerto Sherry are able to source these batteries but the duty receptionist at the marina office confirms with one phone call that they are available in Alicante. The next question, which cannot be answered until monday it now being late on friday, is how much do they cost and how do I get them to Puerto Sherry.
Marina Office (Inside the lighthouse) at Puerto Sherry with replica Caravel in the foreground.
Back on board I climbed into Kiriwini and resumed cleaning marine growth from Kiriwina's waterline. After a couple of hours it was all removed. The water here is quite murky so I cannot assess the condition of the underwater hull. By feel it seems that growth is mainly confined to slime apart from one of two patches where the antifoul was applied too thinly.
Puerto Sherry
16/08/07 04:31 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
After coffee and toast at the cafe the Brompton was deployed for a trip into town.
It was very hot and quite a long ride to the El Paseo centro commercial on the edge of El Puerto de Santa Maria. Across the road from the centro is a branch of PC City (PC world in the UK) behind which is an industrial estate where Talleres PaEs, who are building my "A" frame, are located.
Since buying a selection of Bebi LED lights in April I have wanted to convert the cabin dome lights. This required a large diameter drill bit. On the off chance I asked Juan if he had one. Off course he did and it only took a couple of minutes to drill the required hole. Excellent.
On the way back I called into Carrefour at El Paseo to pick up a few items including some more of their t-shirts at €2 each. A welcome break from the afternoon heat as well.
Back on board I converted the first dome light to LED.
Original installation with halogen bulb.
Base plate with hole cut slightly off centre enabling insertion of LED light cluster. The hole is off centre leaving the original installation intact should retro fitting be required.
Larger hole cut in cabin headlining to accommodate the LED cluster.
LED cluster glued into base plate.
Conversion complete. Dome light reinstalled.
The frosted dome cuts down the light emitted (compared with using the same cluster in the bunk lights where light emitted increased) but the end result is slightly less light for a lot less power.
It was very hot and quite a long ride to the El Paseo centro commercial on the edge of El Puerto de Santa Maria. Across the road from the centro is a branch of PC City (PC world in the UK) behind which is an industrial estate where Talleres PaEs, who are building my "A" frame, are located.
Since buying a selection of Bebi LED lights in April I have wanted to convert the cabin dome lights. This required a large diameter drill bit. On the off chance I asked Juan if he had one. Off course he did and it only took a couple of minutes to drill the required hole. Excellent.
On the way back I called into Carrefour at El Paseo to pick up a few items including some more of their t-shirts at €2 each. A welcome break from the afternoon heat as well.
Back on board I converted the first dome light to LED.
Original installation with halogen bulb.
Base plate with hole cut slightly off centre enabling insertion of LED light cluster. The hole is off centre leaving the original installation intact should retro fitting be required.
Larger hole cut in cabin headlining to accommodate the LED cluster.
LED cluster glued into base plate.
Conversion complete. Dome light reinstalled.
The frosted dome cuts down the light emitted (compared with using the same cluster in the bunk lights where light emitted increased) but the end result is slightly less light for a lot less power.
Puerto Sherry
15/08/07 04:33 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
Since leaving La Coruña in April Kiriwina has accumulated quite a lot of marine growth at here waterline, particularly since arriving at Nazaré.
This must be removed as it is having an adverse effect on speed through the water.
The only way to do the job is to deploy Kiriwini and scrape the growth off by hand. it is quite a time consuming and messy job particularly as the water in Puerto Sherry is not very clean. I spent about an hour and a half and got about half way through before it started to get dark.
This must be removed as it is having an adverse effect on speed through the water.
The only way to do the job is to deploy Kiriwini and scrape the growth off by hand. it is quite a time consuming and messy job particularly as the water in Puerto Sherry is not very clean. I spent about an hour and a half and got about half way through before it started to get dark.
Puerto Sherry
14/08/07 13:54 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
Time to start preperations for sailing. A backlog of jobs has built up which I will tackle while waiting for the pushpit modifications to be completed.
First job is to change the engine oil. This took longer than expected due to difficulties removing the old oil filter but was eventually completed. On the Yanmar 2GMF the old oil must be sucked out of the crankcase with a pump via the dipstick hole and the filter removed from it's er stupid location right behind the alternator. Newer yanmars have all service items conveniently located at the front of the engine. The oil should be changed every 150 hours and the filter every 300. We were at 206 hours so I changed the oil and filter.
At some point I will have to paint numerous parts of the engine casing which have started to rust.
First job is to change the engine oil. This took longer than expected due to difficulties removing the old oil filter but was eventually completed. On the Yanmar 2GMF the old oil must be sucked out of the crankcase with a pump via the dipstick hole and the filter removed from it's er stupid location right behind the alternator. Newer yanmars have all service items conveniently located at the front of the engine. The oil should be changed every 150 hours and the filter every 300. We were at 206 hours so I changed the oil and filter.
At some point I will have to paint numerous parts of the engine casing which have started to rust.
Puerto Sherry
13/08/07 14:04 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
After the failure to complete the pushpit modifications in Portugal I decided to have another go here. The marina staff arranged for a local fabricator, Juan, to visit this morning.
He arrived on time, always a good sign in my book, with his son and a chap from the marina office to assist with translation.
After duly measuring everything Juan announced that the tubing purchased by the contractor in Portugal was the wrong size, 28mm instead of 25mm, and could not be used. Not sure what I will do with it as I certainly don't want to carry it around. Perhaps someone will buy it.
Juan said he could do the job by saturday and would phone me back with a price. He seems very professional but we shall see.
Later in the evening, around 22:00, I joined some friends holidaying here for tapas in the old town. El Puerto de Santa Maria is not the most attractive of towns at first sight but is full of unexpected pleasures which reveal themselves the more one explores. Not unlike other parts of Spain, particularly Galicia, that I have visited where some effort is required of the visitor.
Got back to the boat around 01:30
He arrived on time, always a good sign in my book, with his son and a chap from the marina office to assist with translation.
After duly measuring everything Juan announced that the tubing purchased by the contractor in Portugal was the wrong size, 28mm instead of 25mm, and could not be used. Not sure what I will do with it as I certainly don't want to carry it around. Perhaps someone will buy it.
Juan said he could do the job by saturday and would phone me back with a price. He seems very professional but we shall see.
Later in the evening, around 22:00, I joined some friends holidaying here for tapas in the old town. El Puerto de Santa Maria is not the most attractive of towns at first sight but is full of unexpected pleasures which reveal themselves the more one explores. Not unlike other parts of Spain, particularly Galicia, that I have visited where some effort is required of the visitor.
Got back to the boat around 01:30
To Cadiz
12/08/07 17:56 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
There are two ferry services to Cadiz from El Puerto de Santa Maria. One uses modern hydrofoils. The other, which I took, uses an ageing little river ferry originally built in Vigo, Galicia in 1955.
"Adriano III" (also known as El Vaporcito) is very popular and was packed to and from Cadiz. Skipper Pepe sounds two blasts on his very loud horn with 15 minutes to go and three blasts when departure is imminent.
"Adriano Tercero" on her berth in El Puerto de Santa Maria
Skipper Pepe on his bridge.
Hotel Santa Maria viewed from the river.
"El Vaporcito" approaching her berth in Cadiz harbour
Cadiz was very quiet, it being Sunday. I had a long stroll about town followed by a coffee in Cathedral square before returning on "El Vapocito".
"Adriano III" (also known as El Vaporcito) is very popular and was packed to and from Cadiz. Skipper Pepe sounds two blasts on his very loud horn with 15 minutes to go and three blasts when departure is imminent.
"Adriano Tercero" on her berth in El Puerto de Santa Maria
Skipper Pepe on his bridge.
Hotel Santa Maria viewed from the river.
"El Vaporcito" approaching her berth in Cadiz harbour
Cadiz was very quiet, it being Sunday. I had a long stroll about town followed by a coffee in Cathedral square before returning on "El Vapocito".
Puerto Sherry
11/08/07 18:13 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
Another lovely, if hot, day. Returning from my morning shower I discovered that "Aurelia" had just arrived and was berthed a finger away.
They had left Sines a day after us and had followed the same route apart from an extra stopover on the Algarve.
A quiet day with a trip into El Puerto de Santa Maria for a coffee and to locate an internet access point.
Later in the evening I was invited to the Tomas "El Nitri" Flamenco Club. This was part bar, part club, part theatre and part restaurant which receives some commercial and some government cultural sponsorship. It was quite small and packed for the performance which started at around 23:00.
We were entertained by Virginia Velez on vocals and her flamenco group comprising a guitarist and three female dancers. They were stunning. Straight up, no frills traditional flamenco, wonderful.
They had left Sines a day after us and had followed the same route apart from an extra stopover on the Algarve.
A quiet day with a trip into El Puerto de Santa Maria for a coffee and to locate an internet access point.
Later in the evening I was invited to the Tomas "El Nitri" Flamenco Club. This was part bar, part club, part theatre and part restaurant which receives some commercial and some government cultural sponsorship. It was quite small and packed for the performance which started at around 23:00.
We were entertained by Virginia Velez on vocals and her flamenco group comprising a guitarist and three female dancers. They were stunning. Straight up, no frills traditional flamenco, wonderful.
To Seville and Cadiz
10/08/07 16:23 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
A tourism day today. A friend who has a holiday home here is flying out of Seville and his wife suggests some sightseeing after dropping him at the airport.
The last time I was in Seville was in 1973 and I don't remember a whole lot. We strolled through the old town, enjoyed a tapas lunch at Casa la Viuda on calle Albareda, took refuge from the heat in a fine old hotel bar and did a circuit through the gardens past the Plaza de España built for the 1929 Ibero-American expo. This is quite lovely and features tiled murals showing a map and significant historic scene from each Spanish provence.
This plaza featured in the film 'Lawrence of Arabia" depicting British Army headquarters in Cairo.
Plaza de España centre - It fans out in a large semi-circle on either side of this building.
Detail from the Coruña mural. This depicts King Carlos 1 embarking at La Coruña for a voyage to Germany. The steps from which he embarked are still there though no longer on the waterfront.
Map of Coruña provence.
Stair detail, Plaza de España centre.
Western end of Plaza de España built for the 1929 Ibero-American expo.
As if Seville was not enough, we paid a short visit to Cadiz which is on the western side of the bay of Cadiz opposite Puerto Sherry.
Built along a long peninsular with the bay of Cadiz on one side and the Atlantic on the other Cadiz is a lovely little city with one of the most attractive built environments I have seen in Spain. With land area very restricted the buildings are taller and set along narrow streets which remain in shadow and therefore cooler.
Cooling is further enhanced by the rigging of sun canopies over certain public areas and some streets (as in Seville). There are numerous gardens and squares and with cars more or less excluded from the centre Cadiz seems a very people friendly place. I was very impressed with the white marble cathedral and the truly massive sea walls along the western edge of the old city.
I will have to come back and check the marina facilities.
The last time I was in Seville was in 1973 and I don't remember a whole lot. We strolled through the old town, enjoyed a tapas lunch at Casa la Viuda on calle Albareda, took refuge from the heat in a fine old hotel bar and did a circuit through the gardens past the Plaza de España built for the 1929 Ibero-American expo. This is quite lovely and features tiled murals showing a map and significant historic scene from each Spanish provence.
This plaza featured in the film 'Lawrence of Arabia" depicting British Army headquarters in Cairo.
Plaza de España centre - It fans out in a large semi-circle on either side of this building.
Detail from the Coruña mural. This depicts King Carlos 1 embarking at La Coruña for a voyage to Germany. The steps from which he embarked are still there though no longer on the waterfront.
Map of Coruña provence.
Stair detail, Plaza de España centre.
Western end of Plaza de España built for the 1929 Ibero-American expo.
As if Seville was not enough, we paid a short visit to Cadiz which is on the western side of the bay of Cadiz opposite Puerto Sherry.
Built along a long peninsular with the bay of Cadiz on one side and the Atlantic on the other Cadiz is a lovely little city with one of the most attractive built environments I have seen in Spain. With land area very restricted the buildings are taller and set along narrow streets which remain in shadow and therefore cooler.
Cooling is further enhanced by the rigging of sun canopies over certain public areas and some streets (as in Seville). There are numerous gardens and squares and with cars more or less excluded from the centre Cadiz seems a very people friendly place. I was very impressed with the white marble cathedral and the truly massive sea walls along the western edge of the old city.
I will have to come back and check the marina facilities.
Puerto Sherry - Day Sail - Bay of Cadiz
09/08/07 17:26 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
It certainly is hot down here. Some friends join us for a day sail in the Bay of Cadiz.
We proceeded up the coast towards Rota then sailed across to Cadiz harbour where we watched the magnificent Russian tall ship "Mir" come in to berth. It was much cooler out on the water with winds around SW F4.
Russian tall ship "Mir" entering Cadiz
Everyone had a go at steering including two novices who did very well.
New crew active on deck.
After the "Mir" berthed we sailed back to Puerto Sherry where we berthed at 16:45.
Replica Caravelle moored in Puerto Sherry marina.
We proceeded up the coast towards Rota then sailed across to Cadiz harbour where we watched the magnificent Russian tall ship "Mir" come in to berth. It was much cooler out on the water with winds around SW F4.
Russian tall ship "Mir" entering Cadiz
Everyone had a go at steering including two novices who did very well.
New crew active on deck.
After the "Mir" berthed we sailed back to Puerto Sherry where we berthed at 16:45.
Replica Caravelle moored in Puerto Sherry marina.
Puerto Sherry
08/08/07 17:44 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
During the morning I collected an oversize shore power plug from the marina office (Deposit €75) and substituted it for my own normal plug. The boat now has shore power.
I was invited to a rooftop party in the old town and spent some time during the afternoon helping the organisers with preparations.
They party is an annual summer event where residents of the building, many of whom have homes elswhere in Spain, get together and catchup. As is usual in Spain things did not get under way until well after 21:00. The location was lovely. A rooftop terrace in the heart of the old town of El Puerto de Santa Maria. The terrace was backlit by lighting from the adjacent Hotel Monasterio housed in a beautifully restored monastery.
After the consuption of much wine and Cava matters drew to a halt around 03:00.
Two local residents with the converted monastery in the background.
Self with some more locals.
I was invited to a rooftop party in the old town and spent some time during the afternoon helping the organisers with preparations.
They party is an annual summer event where residents of the building, many of whom have homes elswhere in Spain, get together and catchup. As is usual in Spain things did not get under way until well after 21:00. The location was lovely. A rooftop terrace in the heart of the old town of El Puerto de Santa Maria. The terrace was backlit by lighting from the adjacent Hotel Monasterio housed in a beautifully restored monastery.
After the consuption of much wine and Cava matters drew to a halt around 03:00.
Two local residents with the converted monastery in the background.
Self with some more locals.
Puerto Sherry
07/08/07 16:43 Filed in: Spain - Andalucia
Shortly after tying up the friends who had phoned earlier arrived at the marina and came down to visit the boat. It was good to see them again as they had last been on board when we were in Dover on 3rd June last year. Since then we have sailed 2762 miles.
They are going to show me around later in the evening. This will give me time to get tidied away and have a much needed shower. It has been a hectic trip down from Nazaré but very satisfying to have covered the distance in a relatively short time.
Later I was collected for a visit to town. El Puerto de Santa Maria is not the most attractive place externally but it has a thriving town centre with lots of tapas bars and restaurants. After sampling a good portion of these I caught a taxi back to the marina in the early hours of the morning.
They are going to show me around later in the evening. This will give me time to get tidied away and have a much needed shower. It has been a hectic trip down from Nazaré but very satisfying to have covered the distance in a relatively short time.
Later I was collected for a visit to town. El Puerto de Santa Maria is not the most attractive place externally but it has a thriving town centre with lots of tapas bars and restaurants. After sampling a good portion of these I caught a taxi back to the marina in the early hours of the morning.
Sagres Anchorage to Puerto Sherry 6-7 August
06/08/07 17:42 Filed in: At Sea
This was going to be a long leg. The longest since Gijon to La Coruña (140) miles. Daylight revealed our dramatic surroundings in Enseada de Sagres.
Our anchorage with the cliffs extending round to Ponte de Sagres.
A beach off the starboard bow.
A white fort on the cliffs above.
The pilot books refer to the climate becoming more "Mediterranean" once one has rounded Cabo Sao Vicente. When I awoke the weather was overcast with light drizzle and almost no wind. Very "Mediterranean".
We weighed anchor at 08:06 and set course for Cadiz. About an hour later, once clear of the Enseada de Sagres and a bit out to sea, the wind increased to NNW F4. We were now able to proceed under sail with a full yankee and one reef in the main.
Rock formations seen on exiting the Enseada de Sagres and looking along the Algarve coast towards Lagos.
The wind remained at around NW 4 throughout the day with slight to moderate seas. The sun came out later in the morning.
We made good progress which continued when the wind backed to SSW F5 at 16:00.
By 21:00 the wind had eased and at 21:30 I put the engine on with the wind at around WSW F2-3.
Sunset in the Golfo de Cadiz.
Tuesday 7th August 2007
At 01:30, with the clocks having been advanced 1 hour to Spanish time at midnight, the wind veered to NW F3-4 and the engine was turned off. We proceeded under full main and yankee throughout the night making good progress. This was much more enjoyable than motoring.
We were now well off the coast with no sign of any pot markers and only the odd distant fishing boat or cargo ship for company. I took the chance to take the odd catnap with the alarm set to 15 minutes.
At 06:45, with the wind having eased to WNW F2, I put the engine on. The wind continued to die away and when I pushed the engine a little harder there seemed to be more vibration than usual. I wonder if this is because of the fouled waterline.
As we passed the Bahia Cadiz approach buoy at 11:50 the engine was turned off and we proceed under sail. Canal Principal buoy #2 was passed at 12:05. Shortly after passing buoy #6 at 12:30 the sails were taken in and warps and fenders prepared for mooring.
At 13:00 we were all fast alongside the waiting pontoon at Puerto Sherry marina. Once in reception a rude shock awaited. At €28+ per night this would be the most expensive marina we had stayed in on the European mainland. Reception was very efficient and we were allocated berth 39 on pontoon B1 well inside the marina. They warned that standard shore power connections required conversion using a plug requiring a €75 deposit.
Before proceeding to the berth I thought it prudent to check the yacht club berths in nearby El Puerto de Santa Maria. These were not in good shape and looked to be a hazard when SW winds or passing traffic whipped up a chop in the river.
There was quite a chop running when I arrived at 14:10 and moored alongside a vacant outer pontoon, scuffing the hull in the process. On checking with the club office it was all academic anyway. Visitor berths were only available for one night.
Back on board I cleared the berth at 14:30 and proceeded back to Puerto Sherry. On the way I was called by friends in the town checking my whereabouts. I had given an ETA of lunchtime on the 7th.
At 15:00 we were all fast at our allocated berth in Puerto Sherry. The berth was just fine and well sheltered. The marina looked odd and had a neglected feel about it. That said, it was virtually full with mostly Spanish boats and a small number of visiting foreign yachts.
Passage Run: 138.9 miles Passage Time: 28hrs 54 min.
Our anchorage with the cliffs extending round to Ponte de Sagres.
A beach off the starboard bow.
A white fort on the cliffs above.
The pilot books refer to the climate becoming more "Mediterranean" once one has rounded Cabo Sao Vicente. When I awoke the weather was overcast with light drizzle and almost no wind. Very "Mediterranean".
We weighed anchor at 08:06 and set course for Cadiz. About an hour later, once clear of the Enseada de Sagres and a bit out to sea, the wind increased to NNW F4. We were now able to proceed under sail with a full yankee and one reef in the main.
Rock formations seen on exiting the Enseada de Sagres and looking along the Algarve coast towards Lagos.
The wind remained at around NW 4 throughout the day with slight to moderate seas. The sun came out later in the morning.
We made good progress which continued when the wind backed to SSW F5 at 16:00.
By 21:00 the wind had eased and at 21:30 I put the engine on with the wind at around WSW F2-3.
Sunset in the Golfo de Cadiz.
Tuesday 7th August 2007
At 01:30, with the clocks having been advanced 1 hour to Spanish time at midnight, the wind veered to NW F3-4 and the engine was turned off. We proceeded under full main and yankee throughout the night making good progress. This was much more enjoyable than motoring.
We were now well off the coast with no sign of any pot markers and only the odd distant fishing boat or cargo ship for company. I took the chance to take the odd catnap with the alarm set to 15 minutes.
At 06:45, with the wind having eased to WNW F2, I put the engine on. The wind continued to die away and when I pushed the engine a little harder there seemed to be more vibration than usual. I wonder if this is because of the fouled waterline.
As we passed the Bahia Cadiz approach buoy at 11:50 the engine was turned off and we proceed under sail. Canal Principal buoy #2 was passed at 12:05. Shortly after passing buoy #6 at 12:30 the sails were taken in and warps and fenders prepared for mooring.
At 13:00 we were all fast alongside the waiting pontoon at Puerto Sherry marina. Once in reception a rude shock awaited. At €28+ per night this would be the most expensive marina we had stayed in on the European mainland. Reception was very efficient and we were allocated berth 39 on pontoon B1 well inside the marina. They warned that standard shore power connections required conversion using a plug requiring a €75 deposit.
Before proceeding to the berth I thought it prudent to check the yacht club berths in nearby El Puerto de Santa Maria. These were not in good shape and looked to be a hazard when SW winds or passing traffic whipped up a chop in the river.
There was quite a chop running when I arrived at 14:10 and moored alongside a vacant outer pontoon, scuffing the hull in the process. On checking with the club office it was all academic anyway. Visitor berths were only available for one night.
Back on board I cleared the berth at 14:30 and proceeded back to Puerto Sherry. On the way I was called by friends in the town checking my whereabouts. I had given an ETA of lunchtime on the 7th.
At 15:00 we were all fast at our allocated berth in Puerto Sherry. The berth was just fine and well sheltered. The marina looked odd and had a neglected feel about it. That said, it was virtually full with mostly Spanish boats and a small number of visiting foreign yachts.
Passage Run: 138.9 miles Passage Time: 28hrs 54 min.
Sines to Sagres Anchorage
05/08/07 16:41 Filed in: Portugal
Another early start saw us leave Sines marina at 08:10. It was a hazy morning with light SE winds forecast to veer to the NW and increase later in the day.
We passed the tanker "Stolt Strength" at anchor off Sines. A slightly nostalgic moment as in a former occupation I had extensive dealings with Stolt who, despite there Norwegian name, are based in Greenwich Connecticut.
From Sines it is a straight run down to Cabo Sao Vicente. As the day progressed the wind increased slowly such that at 18:40, after motor sailing all day, I turned the engine off and we continued under sail with main and yankee up in a NW wind 14-17 knots.
At 19:00 we rounded Cabo Sao Vicente and proceeded towards Ponte de Sagres with the wind gusting NW 23 knots.
Cabo Sao Vicente
We rounded Ponte de Sagres at 19:56 and proceeded into the Enseada de Sagres where we annchored in the NW corner in 5.0 metres with 20m of chain out. This spectacular anchorage had been suggested by Joseph on "Aurelia" and we were tucked away safely under tall cliffs as the wind gusted to NW F7 during the night.
Days Run: 60.38 (GPS) Passage Time: 12 hours.
We passed the tanker "Stolt Strength" at anchor off Sines. A slightly nostalgic moment as in a former occupation I had extensive dealings with Stolt who, despite there Norwegian name, are based in Greenwich Connecticut.
From Sines it is a straight run down to Cabo Sao Vicente. As the day progressed the wind increased slowly such that at 18:40, after motor sailing all day, I turned the engine off and we continued under sail with main and yankee up in a NW wind 14-17 knots.
At 19:00 we rounded Cabo Sao Vicente and proceeded towards Ponte de Sagres with the wind gusting NW 23 knots.
Cabo Sao Vicente
We rounded Ponte de Sagres at 19:56 and proceeded into the Enseada de Sagres where we annchored in the NW corner in 5.0 metres with 20m of chain out. This spectacular anchorage had been suggested by Joseph on "Aurelia" and we were tucked away safely under tall cliffs as the wind gusted to NW F7 during the night.
Days Run: 60.38 (GPS) Passage Time: 12 hours.
Cascais Anchorage to Sines
04/08/07 16:35 Filed in: Portugal
We got a reasonably early start weighing anchor at 07:40 but still behind the early birds on "Aurelia" who got away at around 07:30.
Once clear of the approaches to Lisbon at 09:00 we set course for Sines on 154˚ m. It was flat calm with visibility less than two miles.
At 11:42 we passed Cabo Espichel with visibility having improved somewhat though still hazy.
Dragonfly hitching a lift off the approaches to Lisbon.
A barren looking Cabo Espichel.
During the afternoon we saw several spectacular schools of dolphins with frequent out of the water acrobatics. There was also a steady stream of yachts heading north.
At 17:40 we passed Sines W Buoy and were all fast in Berth F11 at Sines Marina at 18:06.
Daily Run: 50.32 miles (GPS) Passage Time: 10hrs 16min. Marina Cost: €14.08 (very reasonable with good facilities)
A very full Sines marina viewed from the town above. We got the second last vacant berth.
Later in the evening I had a glass of wine aboard "Aurelia". They had arrived a couple of hours earlier than us. I suspect Kiriwina is suffering from an excess of marine growth around the waterline.
Once clear of the approaches to Lisbon at 09:00 we set course for Sines on 154˚ m. It was flat calm with visibility less than two miles.
At 11:42 we passed Cabo Espichel with visibility having improved somewhat though still hazy.
Dragonfly hitching a lift off the approaches to Lisbon.
A barren looking Cabo Espichel.
During the afternoon we saw several spectacular schools of dolphins with frequent out of the water acrobatics. There was also a steady stream of yachts heading north.
At 17:40 we passed Sines W Buoy and were all fast in Berth F11 at Sines Marina at 18:06.
Daily Run: 50.32 miles (GPS) Passage Time: 10hrs 16min. Marina Cost: €14.08 (very reasonable with good facilities)
A very full Sines marina viewed from the town above. We got the second last vacant berth.
Later in the evening I had a glass of wine aboard "Aurelia". They had arrived a couple of hours earlier than us. I suspect Kiriwina is suffering from an excess of marine growth around the waterline.
Nazaré to Cascais Anchorage
03/08/07 17:34 Filed in: Portugal
Up early for a quick shower and to collect my gate key deposit. We eventually left the berth at 08:15 and cleared Nazaré harbour at 08:30 with the main up and the log under reading by 50% (this was eventually solved by cleaning and re-aligning the impeller).
There was little wind and what there was was varied so we continued to motorsail in a 2m swell from the NE. I heard "Aurelia" on the VHF leaving at 09:00. She is a faster boat and would pass us at some point.
We continued to motorsail (emphasis on motor) during the morning and the wind increased to NNE 2 as we approached Cabo Carvoeiro. Would we benefit from the usual strong afternoon breezes on the Portuguese coast?
"Aurelia" dipping in a large swell as she overtook us.
Aurelia overtaking.
With "Aurelia" now past us and taking a noticeably more offshore course we rounded Cabo Carvoeiro at 13:00. As the afternoon progressed the wind then died away leaving us motoring in almost flat calm conditions with the swell having moderated noticeably once we rounded the cape.
Cabo Roca was passed at 18:45 and we continued to motorsail fairly close to the coast. "Aurelia" remained in sight but we closed the gap due to our having taken a more inshore course.
We rounded Cabo Raso and proceeded close inshore to Cascais where we anchored off the beach in 5.3m of water with 20m of chain in the water at 20:40. "Aurelia" had anchored about 30 minutes before. The anchorage was very crowded with noisy festivities ashore.
It had been a tiring first day out after my Italian break and I went to bed at 22:00 planning an early start.
Days Run 68.58 miles (GPS). Passage time 12hrs 25 min.
There was little wind and what there was was varied so we continued to motorsail in a 2m swell from the NE. I heard "Aurelia" on the VHF leaving at 09:00. She is a faster boat and would pass us at some point.
We continued to motorsail (emphasis on motor) during the morning and the wind increased to NNE 2 as we approached Cabo Carvoeiro. Would we benefit from the usual strong afternoon breezes on the Portuguese coast?
"Aurelia" dipping in a large swell as she overtook us.
Aurelia overtaking.
With "Aurelia" now past us and taking a noticeably more offshore course we rounded Cabo Carvoeiro at 13:00. As the afternoon progressed the wind then died away leaving us motoring in almost flat calm conditions with the swell having moderated noticeably once we rounded the cape.
Cabo Roca was passed at 18:45 and we continued to motorsail fairly close to the coast. "Aurelia" remained in sight but we closed the gap due to our having taken a more inshore course.
We rounded Cabo Raso and proceeded close inshore to Cascais where we anchored off the beach in 5.3m of water with 20m of chain in the water at 20:40. "Aurelia" had anchored about 30 minutes before. The anchorage was very crowded with noisy festivities ashore.
It had been a tiring first day out after my Italian break and I went to bed at 22:00 planning an early start.
Days Run 68.58 miles (GPS). Passage time 12hrs 25 min.
Nazaré
02/08/07 17:32 Filed in: Portugal
Up early and after a shower went straight over to the contractor to see what was happening with my "A" frame.
Not a lot! The tubing had only arrived yesterday and the first bends were being put in as I arrived. Not good news. They needed 4-5 days to compete the job. This was out of the question so I paid €100 for some of the tubing with the contractor retaining the rest and cancelled the job.
I think there was a genuine misunderstanding about the date of my return. I had originally said 20th July to build in a safety buffer but this was interpreted as 20th August. In any case it was academic as the steel did not arrive until 1st August and there was no way the job would have been done in time even had they got the date correct.
Picked up the pushpit and returned to the boat. I was surprised to see Joseph and Ingrid on "Aurelia" moored two fingers along the pontoon. I had travelled with them last year and knew they had arrived in Camarinas a few days earlier. They had only reached Nazaré late last night. It was good to see them again. They had had a tough trip down the channel but an uneventful Biscay crossing and no repeat of last years mechanical problems.
I spent the rest of the day re-fitting the pushpit and getting ready for sea. I hoped to leave tomorrow morning. When it came time to pay the marina bill I had spent the month of July and the evenings of the 1st and 2nd of August in the marina. Departure was planned for 07:30 on the morning of the 3rd.
By my reckoning I owed them one month at the monthly rate and two days at the daily rate. However the marina manager insisted I had to pay for three days in August despite leaving at 07:30 on the 3rd. I failed to see the logic of this but then, they do things differently in Portugal
By late in the evening everything was ready for a morning departure.
Not a lot! The tubing had only arrived yesterday and the first bends were being put in as I arrived. Not good news. They needed 4-5 days to compete the job. This was out of the question so I paid €100 for some of the tubing with the contractor retaining the rest and cancelled the job.
I think there was a genuine misunderstanding about the date of my return. I had originally said 20th July to build in a safety buffer but this was interpreted as 20th August. In any case it was academic as the steel did not arrive until 1st August and there was no way the job would have been done in time even had they got the date correct.
Picked up the pushpit and returned to the boat. I was surprised to see Joseph and Ingrid on "Aurelia" moored two fingers along the pontoon. I had travelled with them last year and knew they had arrived in Camarinas a few days earlier. They had only reached Nazaré late last night. It was good to see them again. They had had a tough trip down the channel but an uneventful Biscay crossing and no repeat of last years mechanical problems.
I spent the rest of the day re-fitting the pushpit and getting ready for sea. I hoped to leave tomorrow morning. When it came time to pay the marina bill I had spent the month of July and the evenings of the 1st and 2nd of August in the marina. Departure was planned for 07:30 on the morning of the 3rd.
By my reckoning I owed them one month at the monthly rate and two days at the daily rate. However the marina manager insisted I had to pay for three days in August despite leaving at 07:30 on the 3rd. I failed to see the logic of this but then, they do things differently in Portugal
By late in the evening everything was ready for a morning departure.
UK to Nazaré
01/08/07 17:30 Filed in: Portugal
A long day spent travelling.
Got up reasonably early to leave Tranquility Base in Gloucestershire and catch a coach from Cheltenham to Heathrow at 09:10. No problems and arrived on time just after 11:00.
It was only a short walk to Terminal 2 from the bus station. At checkin TAP slugged me for a baggage overweight charge of £45 almost half the fare. Ah well, such is the cost of lower fares. Cheap upfront cost and work the small print to enhance margins.
The flight was on time and after a longish wait for baggage in Lisbon I got a taxi to the bus station. My driver was quite the entrepreneur. He was convinced that it would be far better if he drove me to Nazaré. He even phoned the bus station to enquire about departure times. There was only one more coach today he told me and it left at 19:00.
Cost of his proposed taxi ride to Nazaré €130. Cost of coach fare €8.30. Hmm, other than arriving about 90 minutes earlier the benefit to me was not apparent. Once at the bus station and miffed at my refusal of his generous offer my driver insisted I pay him an extra Euro to cover the cost of his unsolicited mobile phone call. Things are different in Portugal.
I caught the bus which arrived in Nazaré on time and I was back on board at around 21:40. Mike, the harbour master, was still around and mentioned that there was a problem with my "A" frame. Apparently not a lot had happened. we shall see tomorrow.
Got up reasonably early to leave Tranquility Base in Gloucestershire and catch a coach from Cheltenham to Heathrow at 09:10. No problems and arrived on time just after 11:00.
It was only a short walk to Terminal 2 from the bus station. At checkin TAP slugged me for a baggage overweight charge of £45 almost half the fare. Ah well, such is the cost of lower fares. Cheap upfront cost and work the small print to enhance margins.
The flight was on time and after a longish wait for baggage in Lisbon I got a taxi to the bus station. My driver was quite the entrepreneur. He was convinced that it would be far better if he drove me to Nazaré. He even phoned the bus station to enquire about departure times. There was only one more coach today he told me and it left at 19:00.
Cost of his proposed taxi ride to Nazaré €130. Cost of coach fare €8.30. Hmm, other than arriving about 90 minutes earlier the benefit to me was not apparent. Once at the bus station and miffed at my refusal of his generous offer my driver insisted I pay him an extra Euro to cover the cost of his unsolicited mobile phone call. Things are different in Portugal.
I caught the bus which arrived in Nazaré on time and I was back on board at around 21:40. Mike, the harbour master, was still around and mentioned that there was a problem with my "A" frame. Apparently not a lot had happened. we shall see tomorrow.