Lelystad to Lemmer Anchorage
Further details from Australia and Lelystad, The Netherlands.
The replica "Batavia" was built just a few yards from where she now lies in Lelystad harbour and is as faithful to the original design as it is possible to be. We spend a couple of hours having a really good tour of the vessel. More photos here.
Russell with the Batavia's port bow behind him.
"Batavia" - Stern Carving Information
We then proceed by bicycle into the town centre using the excellent network of cycle paths. Russ doing a cycling cameo on the way.
Back on board we leave the berth at 14: 00, take bunkers (49.99 litres @ €1.249 per litre compared with Esso shore price of €1.09. Total cost €62.44). Marina cost is €9.90. We spent €45.69 in the supermarket.
We clear harbour at 14:45 and proceed along the coast towards Lemmer. On the way we pass one of the many and varied sailing ships that frequent Dutch waters.
We arrive off Lemmer entrance at around 18:30 and anchor in 1.8m of water just to the west of Princes Margretsluis in company with three other widely spaced boats. The wind has been very light and we have motorsailed most of the way. I use the deck shower for the first time. It is a great success.
10m of chain is veered and a bridle attached to the midship cleat to try and prevent Kiriwina swinging back and forth on here anchor. The bridle is not wholly effective but the swinging is reduced.
Amsterdam to Lelystad
We clear the Oranjesluizen lock at 11:15 and head out into the Ijsselmeer.
The seas are quite choppy and with all sails up we beat into a Northish wind F3-F4. It is nice to be able to do some sailing again.
Later this veers on the nose and we spend the rest of the trip motoring.
At the entrance to W.V. Lelystad Jachthaven we moor on a layby jetty and phone for a berth allocation. This is quickly given and we are all fast at berth G5 by 18:25
Daily Run 27.1 miles. Marina €9.90 per day
We take a quick walk ashore and dine at a recently opened brewpub nearby.
Amsterdam
I spend a few hours in the morning attending to a few jobs on board and making a fender board from an old piece of timber found ashore.
In the afternoon we do some more tourism and watch a world cup game.
Russell does some gift shopping for his family and we enjoy a nice Thai meal later in the evening.
Amsterdam
We pay our dues (Daily €9.00 Shower €1.00) have breakfast and catch the ferry into Amsterdam for more tourism.
Marina Office - Sixhaven Jachthaven - Amsterdam
Harbourmaster - Sixhaven Jachthaven - Amsterdam
We catch a film at a beautiful Tuchinski cinema and enjoy a steak at Gauchos Grill, one of the many Argentine steakhouses in Amsterdam. There also many good coffee shops in Amsterdam and I take the opportunity to purchase a Bialetti coffee maker and a nice blend to christen it.
Tuchinski Cinema Exterior - Amsterdam
Tuchinski Cinema Interior - Amsterdam
Amsterdam
We rush back thinking that the canal transit is at 22:00.
In the event we leave the waiting berth at 23:45 and exit the last lock into the Amsterdam canal at 01:55. We transited in a convoy of 8 boats and as the last boat passed through a bridge it would be closed. The operator then cycled on to the next bridge while the boats milled about trying not to bang into each other or the canal sides.
Night canal transit Amsterdam. (South to North)
Once clear of the transit canal there were a number of options. Some yachts chose to moor alongside commercial barges or vacant commercial quays. We decided to get a marina berth as we plan on staying several days.
Sixhaven Jachthaven is not far away and conveniently located across the river from the central station which is accessed by a free ferry. It is not staffed at night and as we enter the narrow entrance it does not look as though there are any vacant berths. We press on and after creeping around inside we locate an empty berth (berth 31) and are all fast by 02:30.
It is not clear whether this berth is reserved or otherwise allocated but we are here and go to bed.
Daily Run 4.3 miles Night Transit Cost €8.10
Rotterdam to Amsterdam
Proceeding via Gouda and the Juliana bridge we arrive at the Schiphol bridge south of Amsterdam at 17:45. A small convoy builds up and we clear the bridge at 18:45 in heavy rain.
At 19:45 we are all fast at the Amsterdam night transit waiting berth in the Nieuwe Meer. It is our intention to transit Amsterdam tonight but at 23:20 we are advised that the night convoy has been cancelled allegedly because of high winds. It is purely coincidental that Holland were defeated in their world cup match tonight.
Daily Run 33.9 miles.
Willemstad to Rotterdam
The weather is lovely and sunny with virtually no wind. It is the same at sea and as we need to motor either way we decide to stay inland and make our way to Rotterdam.
At 14:20 the Dordrecht bridge is cleared and while admiring the Dordrecht waterfront we miss the "Noord" passage turn. After a two hour deviation east during which we establish our air draft with some precision at 13.15 metres by kissing the underside of a road bridge with the VHF aerial we finally enter the "Noord" passage at 16:25.
There are a surprising number of little shipyards as we approach Rotterdam and an increasing variety of watercraft.
At 19:00 we are all fast at WV Ijsselmonde to the east of Rotterdam. This is a very nice marina with excellent facilities.
We eat on board and knock back a few beers purchased from the marina shop.
Daily Run 31.70 miles. Marina Cost €7.20 per night
Goes to Willemstad
Our departure is somewhat hurried as we need to catch the 11:00 road bridge opening and join a convoy of 11 departing boats.
We exit Groesche SAS lock at 11:53 and proceed via the Oosterschelde to Willemstad where we are all fast at 18:30. Willemstad is a lovely spot but very crowded. We are in a raft of 3 with the German "Liberty" on the inside and the Dutch "Zoef" on the outside.
Many of the moorings are of the box type which, though not used by us in Willemstad Jachthaven, will be pretty standard from now on.
A late, for Holland, meal in Het Wappen van Willemstad al fresco.
Daily Run 29.8 miles. Marina Cost €10.18 per day.
Vlissingen to Goes
We entered the canal system at Vlissingen locks and proceeded via Kanal door Walcheren, Middleburg, the Veerse Meer, the Oosterschelde which was exited via Goessche SAS lock into the canal leading to the lovely town of Goes (pronounced Goose) where we were all secure in the GW de Werf Jachthaven a short walk from the town centre by 20:15
We passed through four sets of locks without incident and with our gelcoat fully intact.
Our beth in GW de Werf Jachthaven to the left of the lighthouse (which is actually a toilet.)
With the world cup now in full swing many restaurants are showing matches on large screens. We settle in to the Heartbreak Cafe on the main square and watch Australia v Croatia.
Marina Cost €13 per day. Shower €0.50
Vlissingen
She the drives us to the next station along from Breda and we are back in Vlissingen by early afternoon. The weather is still quite bad and we decide to procede via the inland waterways.
During the afternoon we visit a local chandler and purchase the Staande Mastroute guide which fills in the gaps on the charts we have and will take us all the way to the Frisian Islands.
"Kiriwina" in Michel de Ruyter Marina
A distant Russell on the roof of the Maritime museum.
We also visit the local maritime museum and in the evening visit a local bar which has put on a colourful display featuring a brass band for Holland's game in the world cup. It was a fun evening with everyone in good spirits despite a dire game which was almost inconsequential to proceedings.
Marina Cost €17.80 per day.
Breskens to Vlissingen
There are two choices of Marina at Vlissingen. We opt for the Michiel De Ruyter marina as it is right in the town centre.
After leaving Breskens at 11:20 we are all fast at Michel de Ruyter marina by 12:25.
The approach is quite interesting. There is a sill and swinging pedestrian bridge and daylight only entry is controlled by traffic lights.
Marina business is completed over a coffee in the closely adjacent restaurant.
Michel de Ruyter marina entrance looking south towards the river Schelde
I had arranged to have dinner at a restaurant in Breda and mid afternoon we catch the train to Breda where we are met by a dutch friend Kijn who works at the Woolfslaar restaurant.
After a few drinks and booking in at the oldest hotel in Breda, (Hotel Van Ham €85), we enjoy a wonderful meal followed by drinks in town. It is gone 02:00 before we return to the hotel.
Oostend to Breskens
We clear our berth at 14:45 and the harbour at 15:05.
Winds vary but are generally in our favour and we are able to make over half of the passage under sail.
Traditional sailing ship off the Belgian coast.
As we approach the Schelde estuary the wind dies away and as it is gone 19:00 we decide to divert to Breskens on the south bank of the river. By 20:50 we are all fast on the visitor pontoon. We chat to skipper of a lovely Moody "Fusilier".
By the time we reach the yacht club restaurant it is after 22:00. Although they have ceased serving the lady running the place arranges servings of their excellent daily special. The crew of "Fusilier" join us and after dinner we return to their yacht for a nightcap.
The weather forecast is not good for the next few days and Fusilier's skipper, Christopher, suggests we consider proceeding via the Dutch inland waterways. Fusilier had just come from Amsterdam via this route. Sounds like a good idea and Christopher kindly loans us most of the maps and guides we need.
Day's run 27.2 miles. Breskens marina fee €15.85.
Brugges
I have been there quite often over the years but Russ has never been.
We catch the train from Oostend, have a nice lunch on the main square and spend the afternoon taking in the sights.
These include a boat tour on the canals and a tour of the local brewery.
Back to the boat early evening followed by dinner in town.
Calais to Oostend
The main marina in Oostend is very crowded so we go further into the port and berth at the Royal Yacht Club Ostend. A slightly run down establishment but very friendly with an energetic and helpful harbourmaster. We like this club.
Dover to Calais
Nice view of the white cliffs as we leave.
Russ on his first day aboard at sea in the channel.
An easy crossing and we wait on a buoy outside Calais marina. After about an hour the bridge opens and we berth at the marina ably assisted by a uniformed staff member fo directs us to our berth and takes our lines. Marina Cost €19.03.
A quick stroll around town before an excellent dinner at La Sole Meuniere. All part of Russ's culinary research.
Spotted in Calais. The Australian pizza maker outside an establishment whose connection with Australia was not immediately apparent
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Dover
Thursday spent in Dover sorting the boat out and having a look around the town including the wartime command centre under Dover castle. An excellent tour in spectacular surroundings. Not sure about the added sound effects and smells as one tours the site.
Dover itself feels somewhat depressed and does not seem to gain much from the huge volume of traffic passing through every day. The street across the road from the marina is badly blighted by traffic.
Eastbourne to Dover
Berthed in Granville dock, Dover marina. A nice well run Marina with very friendly and helpful staff.
Spent 3rd June attending to a few jobs before returning home to clear the flat prior to sale.
Collected from Dover by old friends Elwin & Susan for an enjoyable visit to Tunbridge Wells on the way home.
Brighton to Eastbourne
A short hop from Brighton. No wind early on but was able to deploy the new Ghosting Genoa for the first time. A bit fiddly first time up but worked well and provided welcome extra power at low wind speed.
Furling was problematic when the wind increased and will require some attention.
Sovereign harbour is a completely new development. Someone utilised an existing gravel pit on the coast and built a marina/harbour complete with locks, a large housing development and shopping centre including cinemas.
The marina offered the best shower facility I have ever seen in a marina anywhere. Very impressive.
Marina Cost £19.61 per day.
