Buenos Aires
Puerto Madero
07/12/09 22:00
First up was a visit to Retiro Bus station to book a coach to Santago de Chile where we plan to spend new year. We chose Cata International Royal Suite service. Our coach leaves Retiro at 20:30 and we should be in Santiago by around 16:00 the following day. Price Arg$275 per person, one way.
Then a visit to the Prefectura to checkin. Again, matters were a bit confused. I gathered that I had all the correct documents but presented them with the wrong form. I think the fact that we are a foreign vessel on a domestic voyage is what is causing some confusion.
Back to Puerto Madero where I had been allocated a new berth C30 and needed to shift. Easy peasy. Kiriwina's gelcoat badly needs polishing and waxing. I noticed a couple at work on an adjacent boat and got an uppish quote of Arg$1,800 (about £280) which is more than I paid in Devon before leaving.
A previously alive inhabitant at Dique 1, Puerto Madero.
Clubhouse and administration complex at Yacht Club Puerto Madero.
Then a visit to the Prefectura to checkin. Again, matters were a bit confused. I gathered that I had all the correct documents but presented them with the wrong form. I think the fact that we are a foreign vessel on a domestic voyage is what is causing some confusion.
Back to Puerto Madero where I had been allocated a new berth C30 and needed to shift. Easy peasy. Kiriwina's gelcoat badly needs polishing and waxing. I noticed a couple at work on an adjacent boat and got an uppish quote of Arg$1,800 (about £280) which is more than I paid in Devon before leaving.
A previously alive inhabitant at Dique 1, Puerto Madero.
Clubhouse and administration complex at Yacht Club Puerto Madero.
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CNV to Yacht Club Puerto Madero
06/12/09 21:15
Up early today to catch the tide. We stopped first at San Fernando Prefectura to let them know we were leaving CNV.
Once on board we stowed the dinghy and got away around 09:30. Many thanks to all at Club Nautico Victoria for their hospitality and assistance during my stay. The facilities have been excellent and the boat was always secure whatever the weather. I was able to leave for long periods without concern for the safety of Kiriwina.
En route CNV to Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires.
We motor sailed all the way with 10-15 knots fine on the port bow. It was more motoring than sailing with short choppy seas. Despite there being a falling tide water levels were quite high due to recent S-SE winds.
Passing through Darsena Norte with Yacht Club Argentino in the background.
Passing Yacht Club Argentino where I arrived in Buenos Aires on 18 December last year.
Unlike last time I had reserved a berth. We only waited 5 minutes before the swing bridge opened and 5 boats left.
A marinero was there to escort us through the entrance and on to our berth where he assisted with mooring.
Approaching our berth C8 at Yacht Club Puerto Madero.
All fast alongside at 14:30 on a warm and cloudy sunday afternoon.
It was a pleasant change to be able to step over the rail directly onto a dock. I haven't done this since December 2007 at La Gomera in the Canaries.
A view from our berth at Puerto Madero.
Once on board we stowed the dinghy and got away around 09:30. Many thanks to all at Club Nautico Victoria for their hospitality and assistance during my stay. The facilities have been excellent and the boat was always secure whatever the weather. I was able to leave for long periods without concern for the safety of Kiriwina.
En route CNV to Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires.
We motor sailed all the way with 10-15 knots fine on the port bow. It was more motoring than sailing with short choppy seas. Despite there being a falling tide water levels were quite high due to recent S-SE winds.
Passing through Darsena Norte with Yacht Club Argentino in the background.
Passing Yacht Club Argentino where I arrived in Buenos Aires on 18 December last year.
Unlike last time I had reserved a berth. We only waited 5 minutes before the swing bridge opened and 5 boats left.
A marinero was there to escort us through the entrance and on to our berth where he assisted with mooring.
Approaching our berth C8 at Yacht Club Puerto Madero.
All fast alongside at 14:30 on a warm and cloudy sunday afternoon.
It was a pleasant change to be able to step over the rail directly onto a dock. I haven't done this since December 2007 at La Gomera in the Canaries.
A view from our berth at Puerto Madero.
Teatro Ateneo
28/11/09 19:40
To Buenos Aires for a concert at Teatro Ateneo.
It is a lovely little theatre on Paraguay just south of Avenida 9 Julio.
We went to see Juana Molina. An excellent concert if a little short at 1hr 15 minutes.
It is a lovely little theatre on Paraguay just south of Avenida 9 Julio.
We went to see Juana Molina. An excellent concert if a little short at 1hr 15 minutes.
Peña de la Ribera - Olivos
10/10/09 21:47
Another visit to the Peña de la Ribera at Olivos. Not as heavily attended as last time, it was moved inside due to very, very heavy rain. In places it rained inside.
Headline talent was Micaela Chauque from Salta. Excellent, as was the food.
Headline talent was Micaela Chauque from Salta. Excellent, as was the food.
El Rosedal
24/09/09 21:41
Today's hash took us around Aeroparque and back through El Rosedal, a lovely park in Palermo with lots of literary statues and a huge rose garden.
Rosalia Castro de Murguía.
There are two smallish lakes where one can hire pedalos or row boats. We stopped for a photo on the bridge (8 on the map below).
Rosalia Castro de Murguía.
There are two smallish lakes where one can hire pedalos or row boats. We stopped for a photo on the bridge (8 on the map below).
Tango Buenos Aires
26/08/09 22:28
Buenos Aires host a Tango festival each year. Events are held at lots of different venues including the old Harrods department store.
Waiting for the Tango class to start.
Waiting for the Tango class to start.
Buenos Aires Hash
09/08/09 20:22
Another hash run today. About 5 km through parks in Palermo and around River Plate stadium.
The beer stop.
Over Avenida Lugones.
River Plate stadium through the mesh.
The hares. (who planned our route)
Espacio Publico
My "You Beaut" newish running shoes"
Hash dog - Lady Fox.
An excellent lentil stew....
....Served under gum trees.
The beer stop.
Over Avenida Lugones.
River Plate stadium through the mesh.
The hares. (who planned our route)
Espacio Publico
My "You Beaut" newish running shoes"
Hash dog - Lady Fox.
An excellent lentil stew....
....Served under gum trees.
Day Sail
26/07/09 21:34
With a crew of five on board we set off for a day sail down to Buenos Aires. It was a lovely winters day with a light following breeze.
Exiting the River Lujan. We were not the only ones out for a sail.
Erica gracing the foredeck.
Nephew Jordan helming and Nancy.
Erica taking a break from the foredeck.
2.1 knots and a depth reading of 1.9 metres. Outside temperature around 8ºc.
Grimaldi Lines "Grand Francia" manoeuvering in Darsena Norte Buenos Aires.
Kiriwina on the buoys at Yacht Club Argentino.
In the lancha heading ashore.
We had planned to spend the night in the marina at Puerto Madero. They said they were full. Later, around 22:00 we counted 12 empty berths so they were not full at all.
This was no real problem apart from the fact that with a malfunctioning Eberspacher we had no heat aboard with an overnight temperature around zero.
Exiting the River Lujan. We were not the only ones out for a sail.
Erica gracing the foredeck.
Nephew Jordan helming and Nancy.
Erica taking a break from the foredeck.
2.1 knots and a depth reading of 1.9 metres. Outside temperature around 8ºc.
Grimaldi Lines "Grand Francia" manoeuvering in Darsena Norte Buenos Aires.
Kiriwina on the buoys at Yacht Club Argentino.
In the lancha heading ashore.
We had planned to spend the night in the marina at Puerto Madero. They said they were full. Later, around 22:00 we counted 12 empty berths so they were not full at all.
This was no real problem apart from the fact that with a malfunctioning Eberspacher we had no heat aboard with an overnight temperature around zero.
Plaza Guatamela
16/06/09 21:14
A beautiful autumn day in Buenos Aires. Spent a few hours looking at apartments for sale and rent.
These photos were taken from a 13th floor balcony overlooking Plaza Guatemala.
North end of the plaza & church.
More palm trees.
Autumn in Buenos Aires. Plaza Guatemala and Avenida Charcas with a gaggle of yellow and black taxis.
These photos were taken from a 13th floor balcony overlooking Plaza Guatemala.
North end of the plaza & church.
More palm trees.
Autumn in Buenos Aires. Plaza Guatemala and Avenida Charcas with a gaggle of yellow and black taxis.
A Drinking Club with a Running Problem
05/04/09 19:36
I was invited along to the bi-weekly running of the Buenos Aires Hash by a skipper who also lives on his boat at CNV. He gave me a lift down to Buenos Aires on the back of his motorbike. We drove most of the way down Libertador with me getting a panoramic view from the pillion.
The Hash is a disparate group of expats and Argentines who go for a run every two weeks. Each run is organised by a different member who also handles the catering arrangements afterwards. A $15 peso fee is collected to help cover costs. Before the run a 10km trail (shorter for walkers and the less fit), complete with false leads and dead ends, is marked with flour.
We set off from Plaza St Martin and ran through Recoleta, fortunately an area I know reasonably well. Everyone ran at their own pace and I kept up quite well despite running in deck shoes which attracted much ridicule. If one is reasonably fit and can run the distance this is a good way to see Buenos Aires.
Out towards MALBA we were passing through a residential area with me following a couple of chaps about 50 yards ahead and not paying much attention to the marks.
I followed them all the way back to Plaza St Martin and was feeling pretty pleased with myself at having run the distance. As we were first back I was puzzled as to what happened to the fast runners. In fact I hadn't run the whole course, only a bit over half of it.
Once everyone got back drinks were served. A detailed post mortem took place and various formalities, including a welcome for new runners, were concluded. As each item was concluded toasts were drunk and songs sung. All in english.
Hash Post Mortem
Formalities complete we moved to a lovely apartment overlooking the rear garden of Palacio St Martin which I had visited in July 2008. Lunch was outstanding and if I'm not traveling south I will try to run the full distance next time.
Puerto Madero
02/03/09 21:26
Günter and Schatzi were on their way back from Uruguay so I went down to Buenos Aires to meet them for dinner.
En route I needed to top up my mobile. The mobile system in Argentina has a few eccentricities one of which is that credit added is valid for a month after which the network cannot be accessed, even to add credit via a prepaid card. Unused credit is not lost but cannot be used until more is added. My month was up so the only way to add credit was to find an over the counter top-up retailer.
I went down to Puerto Madero but the British built swing bridge had malfunctioned in the closed position so no boats could enter or leave Puerto Madero. Günter had diverted into YCA.
Schatzi with ant in Centro Cultural Borges.
We ran a few errands up town before returning to Puerto Madero and dinner at Cabaña Las Lilas.
This was quite the place. They charged like wounded bulls (A$27 for a potato) but the food and service were very very good. Their main business is breeding and raising beef cattle and the restaurant is a showcase for their products.
Not a spot for eating every day but very nice once in a while and certainly the best beef I've had in Argentina
Günter and Schatzi, er, conversing.
En route I needed to top up my mobile. The mobile system in Argentina has a few eccentricities one of which is that credit added is valid for a month after which the network cannot be accessed, even to add credit via a prepaid card. Unused credit is not lost but cannot be used until more is added. My month was up so the only way to add credit was to find an over the counter top-up retailer.
I went down to Puerto Madero but the British built swing bridge had malfunctioned in the closed position so no boats could enter or leave Puerto Madero. Günter had diverted into YCA.
Schatzi with ant in Centro Cultural Borges.
We ran a few errands up town before returning to Puerto Madero and dinner at Cabaña Las Lilas.
This was quite the place. They charged like wounded bulls (A$27 for a potato) but the food and service were very very good. Their main business is breeding and raising beef cattle and the restaurant is a showcase for their products.
Not a spot for eating every day but very nice once in a while and certainly the best beef I've had in Argentina
Günter and Schatzi, er, conversing.
Australia Day
25/01/09 21:50
Somebody belonging to Couch Surfers had arranged an Australia Day picnic in Buenos Aires. It was an open invitation so I donned my 15 year old St Kilda t-shirt and went along to have a look.
It was mostly gringo backpackers but quite a few Argentines and assorted other gringos showed up as well.
The organiser had obtained supplies of Australia's national dish, vegemite. Bread and vegemite were duly offered to all Argentines and other non Australians all of whom were photographed while they tasted this wonderful food.
Reactions were mixed with not all fully appreciating the unique culinary experience on offer. These photos must be somewhere online but I've yet to find them.
Around 21:00 the park was closed and I went off to dinner with Neil from Australia, Antonio from Buenos Aires and another chap from New York.
For the second time I got the number 60 bus back to San Fernando. This time I stayed awake and got off at the right stop.
It was mostly gringo backpackers but quite a few Argentines and assorted other gringos showed up as well.
The organiser had obtained supplies of Australia's national dish, vegemite. Bread and vegemite were duly offered to all Argentines and other non Australians all of whom were photographed while they tasted this wonderful food.
Reactions were mixed with not all fully appreciating the unique culinary experience on offer. These photos must be somewhere online but I've yet to find them.
Around 21:00 the park was closed and I went off to dinner with Neil from Australia, Antonio from Buenos Aires and another chap from New York.
For the second time I got the number 60 bus back to San Fernando. This time I stayed awake and got off at the right stop.
Buenos Aires to San Fernando
10/01/09 21:10
Many thanks to Yacht Club Argentino for their hospitality over the past three weeks.
The strong winds overnight had eased and by the time I left YC Argentino at 13:25 there was virtually no wind. I took the coastal route exiting Antepuerto Norte to the north.
Northern Entrance
Container berth in Antepuerte Norte.
Outer breakwater.
Don Alejandro buoy was left to starboard at 15:40 and the motor turned off. With a brisk SE 15-20 knots it was good sailing with the main and yankee goose winged.
The River Plate has a surreal feel about it. I think it has something to do with the brown water. One is jut not used to large expanses of brown water. The contrast between river and sky is striking.
About 20 minutes later the river Plate began to shallow and at 16:50 Kiriwina slowly grounded in soft mud on a rising tide. She slewed to starboard beam onto the wind. I got the sails down and dropped the anchor to bring her head to wind and after a few minutes she was riding easier so I had a cup of tea and waited.
At 17:20 she floated clear and passage was resumed under motor and full yankee. It was like Piccadilly Circus for boats. There were heaps of them in a gloriously chaotic muddle. Boats running, boats tacking, boats anchored with people swimming in the fairway, boats motoring into the wind, boats racing and kids in optimists. Incredible! I've not seen this level of sailing activity since I left England.
Approaching river Lujan.
It is replicated ashore with commercial marinas and club nauticos and a truly impressive concentration of servicios maritimos. They can do anything here including building one a new boat.
Kiriwina touched bottom again approaching the river Lujan entrance but after a few minutes she floated clear.
When I got to the club (CNV) I was met by a marinero in a dinghy and escorted to my berth. Basically I have a bow and stern line provided by the club. These hold the boat a few meters off a micro-jetty. There is shore power, water and wifi all included plus the use of all facilities including excellent hot showers.
CNV moorings.
Thanks to Diego and Laura for inviting me over for an asado and some wine. I had a great evening talking about sailing and gleaning lots of local knowledge for trips to Uruguay and the Delta.
The strong winds overnight had eased and by the time I left YC Argentino at 13:25 there was virtually no wind. I took the coastal route exiting Antepuerto Norte to the north.
Northern Entrance
Container berth in Antepuerte Norte.
Outer breakwater.
Don Alejandro buoy was left to starboard at 15:40 and the motor turned off. With a brisk SE 15-20 knots it was good sailing with the main and yankee goose winged.
The River Plate has a surreal feel about it. I think it has something to do with the brown water. One is jut not used to large expanses of brown water. The contrast between river and sky is striking.
About 20 minutes later the river Plate began to shallow and at 16:50 Kiriwina slowly grounded in soft mud on a rising tide. She slewed to starboard beam onto the wind. I got the sails down and dropped the anchor to bring her head to wind and after a few minutes she was riding easier so I had a cup of tea and waited.
At 17:20 she floated clear and passage was resumed under motor and full yankee. It was like Piccadilly Circus for boats. There were heaps of them in a gloriously chaotic muddle. Boats running, boats tacking, boats anchored with people swimming in the fairway, boats motoring into the wind, boats racing and kids in optimists. Incredible! I've not seen this level of sailing activity since I left England.
Approaching river Lujan.
It is replicated ashore with commercial marinas and club nauticos and a truly impressive concentration of servicios maritimos. They can do anything here including building one a new boat.
Kiriwina touched bottom again approaching the river Lujan entrance but after a few minutes she floated clear.
When I got to the club (CNV) I was met by a marinero in a dinghy and escorted to my berth. Basically I have a bow and stern line provided by the club. These hold the boat a few meters off a micro-jetty. There is shore power, water and wifi all included plus the use of all facilities including excellent hot showers.
CNV moorings.
Thanks to Diego and Laura for inviting me over for an asado and some wine. I had a great evening talking about sailing and gleaning lots of local knowledge for trips to Uruguay and the Delta.
