Sailing with a Vancouver 28

Windlass Motor

Time to revist the windlass motor. My efforts in Brazil last year slowed matters but the windlass motor now needs to be removed for repainting and overhaul.

Wlass01

Wlass02

Wlass03

No problems with removal. Disconnected the wiring and two retaining bolts and it was out. Also, a closer examination of the chain locker deckhead revealed a larged number of drilled holes, some of which were leaking. This will mean a big session with epoxy filler. I'm still baffled as to why all these holes (well over 100) were drilled.

Later I dropped the motor off at
Petrei & Foglia in Tigre.
0 Comments

El Rosedal

Today's hash took us around Aeroparque and back through El Rosedal, a lovely park in Palermo with lots of literary statues and a huge rose garden.

Rosalia Castro de Murguía.
Ha01a

There are two smallish lakes where one can hire pedalos or row boats. We stopped for a photo on the bridge (8 on the map below).
Ha02a

Ha03

mapa_rosedal
0 Comments

Tigre Delta

Another TBC day out in the delta.

This beautiful motor cruiser passed us with Sarmiento's cottage in the background.
Del01

Australian style cottages with wide verandas.
Del02

Del05

We were late starting and were the last to arrive for lunch at Guacamayo.
Del03

Del04

We also missed the photo op but more are posted here.
0 Comments

Santiago to Buenos Aires

At Chili Hotel it cost us US$108 for 2 nights. An underwhelming place, IMHO overpriced and in need of refurbishment. There was no need to take a taxi to the airport. We just took the Metro to Los Heroes and then an airport bus right to the terminal.

Luggage sculpture at Santiago airport.
Sapt01

A quick coffee before flying.
Sapt02

Nancy flew LAN Chile, her plane seen here with the Cordilera beyond.
Sapt03

I had an electronic ticket and had checked in online. Absent a printer I presented myself for boarding with a boarding card displayed on my I-Pod Touch. Security argued a bit but let me through. Chilean immigration were having none of it and sent me back to the Pluna checkin desk to get a paper boarding pass. So much for electronic ticketing.

Chilean air force business jet at Santiago as we taxied past.
Sapt05

Flying east over the Cordilera.
Sapt06

My trip back was more less on time and uneventful. We flew into Montevideo passing low over Yacht Club Uruguayano where I stayed back in February.

At Aeroparque in Buenos Aires Argentine police were photographing all disembarking passengers.
0 Comments

Santiago

Back in Santiago we stayed at the fairly forgettable ChilHotel not far from Baquedano metro station.

The car was due back at 13:00 so we nipped into town to have a look around the area of La Moneda, Presidential residence and seat of the Chilean government.


Front view.
ElM01

Contraloria General de la Republica.
ElM02

Rear view from Plaza de la Ciudadanía
ElM03

ElM04

Salvador Allende
ElM05
The inscription reads. "Tengo Fe En Chile Y Su Destino". I have faith in Chile and her destiny.

Floral tributes to Allende. He was deposed by a military coup on 11th September 1973. The text of his last speech is
here.
ElM06

La Moneda, front view from the other side.
ElM07

La Moneda under attack September 1973.
ElM08

View from La Moneda towards Avenida Bulnes. Chile celebrates her bicentenary next year.
ElM09

Mounted Caribineros deployed just in case demonstrations on the coup anniversary turn violent.
ElM10

Baquedano metro station.
ElM11

Model train display at Baquedano station. Copiapo is the capital of Atacama province in northern Chile.
ElM12

More of Santiago's very impressive metro.
ElM13

ElM14

ElM15
0 Comments

Olmue, Valparaiso, Viña del Mar and Santiago

We were lucky. Hosteria de Valle Verde turned out to be very nice indeed with an excellent breakfast included. Cost C$30,000 (£34).

Nancy outside our cabin with the little Kia.
Valp01

Reception.
Valp02

We drove down to Valparaiso on the Pacific coast where it was again noticeably cooler and foggy due, I understand, to the influence of the Humboldt Current.

There is convenient parking underneath Plaza Sotomayor next to Muelle Prat. The plaza itself is surrounded by and interesting array of buildings.

Valparaiso port and some ships of the
Chilean Navy.
Valp03

Port Authority building.
Valp04

Imposing Armada de Chile building.
Valp05

Valp10

Rear entrance to the navy building.
Valp11

Art and Cultural Centre.
Valp06

Hotel Reina Victoria.
Valp07

Fire station.
Valp08

Memorial statue - Arturo Prat.
Valp09


Cia Chilena de Navegacion Interoceanica S.A.
Valp12

Fresh produce is very cheap in Chile. These avocados cost C$1000 (£1.15).
Valp13

Memorial to Lord Cochrane who commanded the Chilean Navy amongst others. More about him from the RN and the Chilean navy.
Valp14

Ships at anchor off Valparaiso.
Valp15

Houses on steep hills overlooking the port area.
Valp16

Funicular railway. One of many in Valparaiso.
Valp17

Back in the car we drove up a winding road to residential areas overlooking the port. All cabling is above ground.
Valp18

Valp19

Very steep streets.
Valp20

Trolleybus on Plaza Sotomayor. A wealth of detail on these buses here.
Valp21

From Valparaiso we drove a few miles up the coast to Viña del Mar.

Our backs to the Pacific at Reñaca beach. Sailing west from here the next land would be Dudley beach south of Newcastle, Australia some 6158.46 nautical miles away.
Valp22

Viña del Mar is home to the Chilean navy Escuela de Armamentos.
Valp24

Lots of old guns from scrapped Chilean warships. Mostly British and American built.
Valp25

I hadn't seen these before. Large transparent spheres in a shallow pool. A child is sealed inside (with enough air) and then rolls the sphere around the pool. They are called water balls.
Valp26

Before going back to santiago we stopped by we stopped by Edificio Miramar. Around US$110,000 buys a new 2 bedroom apartment with (somewhat distant) sea views. I thought this was a bit expensive especially as bedroom 2 could be described as a large cupboard.
0 Comments

San Vicente to Olmue

Olga outside her new house.
SvOl01

San Vicente lies in a river valley a few miles to the west of route 5. To the east is the Andes cordilera.
SvOl02

Route 66 took us from San Vicente via Peumo to San Antonio on the pacific coast.
SVOl03

It was a lovely drive on immaculate roads through farmland and winding hill roads. Roadside produce stalls were everywhere. We bought a large bag of oranges for 1,500 pesos (about £1.70).

Just before San Antonio we dropped down to the foggy Pacific at Santa Maria del Mar where it was noticeably colder.
SVOl04

Then we skirted round San Antonio and continued across country to Olmue near Parque Nacional La Campana.

Olmue is a lovely spot and we visited sister Jackie who lives in a not quite finished eco-house just outside the town. Before dinner we took a walk up into the park foothills.

SVOl06

SVOl07

Nancy with sister Jackie at sunset in Parque Nacional La Campana.
SVOl05

After an excellent dinner at Campo Alto
CampoAlto

We looked around for a hotel. There being none suitable in Olmue we set off for Viña del Mar but around 23:30 we stumbled on Hosteria de Valle Verde where we spent the night.

SantMap
0 Comments

Santiago to San Vicente

We checked out of the hotel this morning. Total cost for 3 nights US$173. I could take or leave Hotel Foresta. It clearly needs refurbishing and seems to be run by old men who don't really give a toss. If staying longer I would look for something better.

As we packed I noticed the bathroom shelf.

SantSV01

The hotel restaurant is on the 5th floor with lovely views over Cerro Santa Lucia.
SantSV02

SantSV03

Our hire car was delivered to the hotel by Maximo Rent a Car. We got a Kia "Morning" costing US$59 per day with unlimited mileage and Santiago tolls included.

First stop was the top of Cerro San Cristobal in Parque Metropolitano with stunning views across Santiago to the Cordilera.
SantSV04

One can also walk to the top of take the funicular railway.
SantSV05

There is also a church and lots of craft shops.
SantSV06

After stopping for lunch on the outskirts of Santiago we headed south on Route 5. There are tolls on urban autopistas which are collected electronically. As a car approches a payment gantry the applicable toll is displayed. Then, as the car passes under the gantry, the required toll is taken from a prepaid device on the car. Presumably this is topped up somewhere as required. Very slick and it certainly avoids the queues found at manual toll booths in Buenos Aires.

We had to pay close attention to the somewhat infrequent signs. Without changing lanes we ended up heading west instead of south. Back on route 5 we continued south on a superb autopista. About an hour into the trip the
Carabineros motioned us to stop for a spot check on our papers. They were very professional in immaculate uniforms.

Just after dark we arrived in San Vicente about 150k south of Santiago where we stayed with Nancy's sister Olga.

SantMap
0 Comments

Central Santiago

We sat outside in the sun for a late breakfast at Cafe Patagonia around the corner from Hotel Foresta.

First stop this morning was the beautifully kept National Library.

Peripheral lighting.

Sant0301

Skylight.
Sant0302

Chilena from 1948. Publicity for a photograhic exhibition elsewhere in the building.
Sant0303

Old Santiago.
Sant0304

Another skylight and stairwell.
Sant0305

National Library.
Sant0306

Paris London district.
Sant0307

Sant0309

Sant0310

Iglesia Sacramentinos
Sant0311

Avenida Bulnes
Sant0312

Sant0313

Sant0314

Immaculate metro carriage.
Sant0315


0 Comments

Central Santiago

Our room at Hotel Foresta was comfortable enough but the heating system initially failed and when restored was not much better. We were provided with a hot air blower.

We walked into the centre and had along breakfast at the Argentine owned Cafe Bonafide.

Santiago has a lot more pedestrianisation than Buenos Aires. Streets are clean and well maintained and public buildings seem well cared for. It all gave the impression of a properly funded public sector and was quite unlike any city I have seen so far in South America.

Central Post Office.
Correos de Chile is an autonomous state enterprise and seems to be thriving as such. An interesting contrast to the privatised Argentine system and the sad decline of the Royal mail.
Sant0201

Plaza de Armas with Catederal Metropolitana in the background.
Sant0204

Interior Catederal Metropolitana.
Sant0202

Plaza de Armas - north side.
Sant0203

Bandstand Plaza de Armas.
Sant0205

Universidad Catolica station. Santiago's Metro system is something else. It opened in 1975 with rolling stock supplied by the French company Alstom. Most cars seem to have been built in France with newer ones coming from Brazil. The system is reasonably priced and very clean. We never had to wait very long for a train.
Sant0206
0 Comments

Buenos Airies to Santiago

It rained most of the night and was still pouring down when I left for Aeroparque. A short remise ride and I caught my train from Tigre as planned just after 08:00.

All went well until just before Nunez station when some poor chap apparently ignored the barriers and tried to cross the track. He didn't make it and was struck a glancing blow and thrown 20 metres up the line. He survived but was not in good shape. Another victim of the somewhat casual Argentine approach to personal safety. We sat there for almost an hour while police ambulance and bomberos efficiently sorted things out and took care of him.

My 10:30 flight was looking dodgy by the time I caught a taxi at 10:00 from Lisandro de la Torre station. I was lucky. With hand baggage only and some very helpful Pluna staff I took my seat aboard Pluna flight PU168 at exactly 10:30.

Backing off the gate we passed this
AeroChaco plane. AeroChaco are the "official" carrier of Boca Juniors football club.
Sant0101

It had stopped raining by the time we took off giving excellent views of the city.

Avenida 9 Julio, 110m wide, with Retiro station left of centre.
Sant0103

Puerto Madero with Yacht Club Argentino at centre
.
Sant0104

A container ship outbound from Buenos Aires.
Sant0105


Buenos Aires to Montevideo is a 45 minute flight. The terminal at Montevideo is quite small and the transit lounge was very full due, I suspect, to Pluna succeeding in their plan to become a successful regional carrier using Montevideo as a hub.

Security at Montevideo is provided by the
Fuerza Area Uruguaya and they don't like photos being taken. I took some anyway.
A Pluna CRJ-900
Sant0106

This looks like a 60's Huey
Sant0109

A Pluna
Bombardier CRJ-900 NextGen. It is a very very quiet aircraft. On the flight to Santiago I was in Row 23, the last. There is no window on the starboard side and my locker above was full of safety gear.
Sant0107

Even with the back seat in an aft engined plane it was still quiet. The interior is understated, mostly off-white plastic.
Sant0102
Sant0108

Pluna have picked up a few ideas from Ryan Air. They charge extra for checked baggage and no refreshments are provided. On board catering is handled by
Goddard Catering of Miami (US$ pricing), who charge an eye watering US$3.00 for a coke.

It was turbulent as we crossed over the Cordillera and I snapped a few shots of the magnificent Andes.
Sant0110

Sant0111

Our aircraft at Santiago.
Sant0112
All in all it was a good flight. Immigration was pretty quick and all baggage is x-rayed when going through customs.

Leaving the arrival hall I was met with a swarm of taxi hustlers. They were a real pain. At least in Buenos Aires they are kept outside the terminal.

I took a city bus for C$1400 pesos (£1.55) to Los Heroes and then took the metro (also C$1400 pesos) to Santa Lucia station. The Metro here is similar to the one in Montreal in that the trains have rubber wheels for quiet running.
Sant0113

From there it was a twenty minute walk over Park Santa Lucia to Hotel Foresta.
Sant0114

National Library.
Sant0115

Sant0116

Sant0117

It is an old hotel and a bit tired but my room, although very twee, was large and comfortable,
Sant0118

with a lovely view of Cerro Santa Lucia.
Sant0119



0 Comments

Booking for Chile

We are off to Santiago in Chile on Monday.

Despega.com is popular here and they came up with a return fare to Santiago of around £110 with Pluna (Primeras Líneas Uruguayas de Navegación Aérea) the national airline of Uruguay. I had never heard of them. They date back to 1936 and were recently privatised in a joint venture between the government of Uruguay and Leadgate Investment.

New investment has modernised the fleet with new
Bombardier CRJ-900 NextGen regional jets.
Pluna

I'm looking forward to my flight which routes to Santiago via Montevideo.
0 Comments