Bahia
Cairu to Galeão
30/09/08 23:08
To catch the beginning of the ebb tide we weighed anchor at 05:45 and had a quick passage back to Galeão where we anchored at 07:20.
Later we took a launch into Valenca for shopping and lunch.
It had been a very enjoyable two weeks in Boipeba. Very difficult and hazardous to get to by yacht but lovely once one gets there.
Later we took a launch into Valenca for shopping and lunch.
It had been a very enjoyable two weeks in Boipeba. Very difficult and hazardous to get to by yacht but lovely once one gets there.
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Boipeba to Cairu
29/09/08 22:46
We left Boipeba pool at 14:10 with the tide in full flood. It was a strong spring tide and I could not pull the anchor up by hand. It was necessary to use the windlass.
At 14:45 we crossed took the dogs leg turn across the river towards the cliffs. My sounder read 0.4m which meant 1.3 meteres of water and as close to going aground as I can get without actually doing so. A few minutes later just after the cliffs Kiriwina slowed as she ploughed mud on the bottom. She kept going though and reached deeper water.
Rio do Inferno was cleared with a sigh of relief at 15:20. Kiriwina is right on the limit for safe navigation of this river. She grounded on the outbound trip and touched bottom today. In the event we didn't take Ron's shortcut. I wouldn't have anyway but Ron decided against it as well. This river is subject to silting and depths constantly change. I'm glad I did it but I think the margin is a bit tight for Kiriwina and would be more likely to take the seaward route if I went again.
At 17:30 we anchored off Cairu for the night. There is no problem navigating from the Rio Inferno to Cairu on a rising tide as there are only a few shallower patches. However to do even this section without local knowledge is still very hazardous. I had recorded a GPS track from the launch when we visited São Sebastiao a couple of weeks back. The assumption being that if a river launch drawing 0.75 can get through at low tide Kiriwina drawing around 1.4m should be able to get through on a 2m spring tide.
At 14:45 we crossed took the dogs leg turn across the river towards the cliffs. My sounder read 0.4m which meant 1.3 meteres of water and as close to going aground as I can get without actually doing so. A few minutes later just after the cliffs Kiriwina slowed as she ploughed mud on the bottom. She kept going though and reached deeper water.
Rio do Inferno was cleared with a sigh of relief at 15:20. Kiriwina is right on the limit for safe navigation of this river. She grounded on the outbound trip and touched bottom today. In the event we didn't take Ron's shortcut. I wouldn't have anyway but Ron decided against it as well. This river is subject to silting and depths constantly change. I'm glad I did it but I think the margin is a bit tight for Kiriwina and would be more likely to take the seaward route if I went again.
At 17:30 we anchored off Cairu for the night. There is no problem navigating from the Rio Inferno to Cairu on a rising tide as there are only a few shallower patches. However to do even this section without local knowledge is still very hazardous. I had recorded a GPS track from the launch when we visited São Sebastiao a couple of weeks back. The assumption being that if a river launch drawing 0.75 can get through at low tide Kiriwina drawing around 1.4m should be able to get through on a 2m spring tide.
Lancha Rapida - Valenca to Boipeba
23/09/08 23:25
Another fast ride in a lanch rapida. Marli's friend Marilza who was spending a day with us joined me for the trip.
We spent the rest of the day on the beach.
Ron preparing for some kite surfing.
Marilza and Marli
They don't like getting their hair wet when swimming.
It's a tough life being an ocean vagabond. However, one learns to deal with it.
We spent the rest of the day on the beach.
Ron preparing for some kite surfing.
Marilza and Marli
They don't like getting their hair wet when swimming.
It's a tough life being an ocean vagabond. However, one learns to deal with it.
Lancha Rapida - Boipeba to Valenca
22/09/08 23:20
This was a different way to travel by boat. A number of fast speedboats with engines up to 150 HP ply the route from Valenca to Boipeba. They travel at between 25 and 30 mph and take 45 minutes fro a trip which took us about 10 hours. The fare is a steep R$30 for non residents of Boipeba.
I needed to do a bit of shopping and stayed overnight at a hotel in Valenca.
I needed to do a bit of shopping and stayed overnight at a hotel in Valenca.
More deck leaks
19/09/08 21:36
I discovered that water was leaking into the wardrobe. Finding and fixing the leak required the entire wardrobe to be dismantled. This took quite a while but was possible without harming any of the joinery.
Water stains inside the wardrobe.
Wardrobe headlining showing leak stains.
The cause was the same as elsewhere. ten holes had been drilled through the deckhead, most for no apparent reason, and at least three were leaking. This is insane as a perfectly watertight structure is turned into a colander.
A watertight deck turned into a colander.
I cleaned and prepared the holes for epoxy filler.
Later I dinghied over to the spit at Pontal and gave the dinghy a good scrub as the bottom had become heavily fouled.
Boipeba village near the ferry dock.
Water stains inside the wardrobe.
Wardrobe headlining showing leak stains.
The cause was the same as elsewhere. ten holes had been drilled through the deckhead, most for no apparent reason, and at least three were leaking. This is insane as a perfectly watertight structure is turned into a colander.
A watertight deck turned into a colander.
I cleaned and prepared the holes for epoxy filler.
Later I dinghied over to the spit at Pontal and gave the dinghy a good scrub as the bottom had become heavily fouled.
Boipeba village near the ferry dock.
Canavieiras to Boipeba
17/09/08 22:15
The passage along Rio do Inferno to Boipeba is challenging and very risky if careful preparations are not made. Ron had made the trip before in a river launch and recorded a GPS track.
This morning we took the dinghy at low water and followed this track for most of the river. I recorded my own GPS track and Ron took regular soundings with a marked stick. This is a very tricky river with lots of shoals, no chart and no navigational aids.
After a short run ashore to have a quick look at Canavieiras we set off at 15:00. Kiriwina seemed to be running normally with a clean propellor.
Floating oyster bars at Canavieiras
The shallowest section is a bar at the beginning of Rio do Inferno. Ron crossed without difficulty but Kiriwina suddenly grounded in a depth of 0.9m. After 5 minutes of astern, forward, astern, forward and assisted by a rising tide she managed to pass over the bar. Fortunately the bottom was mud.
Kiriwina grounded shortly after this photo was taken.
A river launch passing close to port. She also must stay very close to the optimum route.
After the bar she stayed afloat but was several times within a centimetre or two of going aground. It is necessary to accurately follow one's GPS track and keep a close watch on the depth sounder.
Mangroves along the river. It is not yet high tide.
The gas boat, again passing very close.
Approaching the cliffs where the route makes a dog's leg 90º to starboard.
In the dog's leg with the sounder reading 1.4 metres which is 0.5 cm more than Kiriwina's design draft.
At 16:50 we anchored in the river about a mile from Boipeba pool in 3.3m of water. reaching he pool involves careful navigation around two shifting sandbanks which we will have to survey before proceeding.
Seaward entrance to Boipeba in the distance.
This morning we took the dinghy at low water and followed this track for most of the river. I recorded my own GPS track and Ron took regular soundings with a marked stick. This is a very tricky river with lots of shoals, no chart and no navigational aids.
After a short run ashore to have a quick look at Canavieiras we set off at 15:00. Kiriwina seemed to be running normally with a clean propellor.
Floating oyster bars at Canavieiras
The shallowest section is a bar at the beginning of Rio do Inferno. Ron crossed without difficulty but Kiriwina suddenly grounded in a depth of 0.9m. After 5 minutes of astern, forward, astern, forward and assisted by a rising tide she managed to pass over the bar. Fortunately the bottom was mud.
Kiriwina grounded shortly after this photo was taken.
A river launch passing close to port. She also must stay very close to the optimum route.
After the bar she stayed afloat but was several times within a centimetre or two of going aground. It is necessary to accurately follow one's GPS track and keep a close watch on the depth sounder.
Mangroves along the river. It is not yet high tide.
The gas boat, again passing very close.
Approaching the cliffs where the route makes a dog's leg 90º to starboard.
In the dog's leg with the sounder reading 1.4 metres which is 0.5 cm more than Kiriwina's design draft.
At 16:50 we anchored in the river about a mile from Boipeba pool in 3.3m of water. reaching he pool involves careful navigation around two shifting sandbanks which we will have to survey before proceeding.
Seaward entrance to Boipeba in the distance.
Galeão to Canavieiras
16/09/08 22:11
I had stored a GPS track for this route when we went to São Sebastiao last sunday.
We left Galeão on a flooding tide at 12:40 and it was simply a matter of following the track closely. Although the Canal de Taperoa and Canal de Tinharé, through which we passed, are mostly deep there are shallow patches where deviating from the track would result in a grounding. Kiriwina seemed to be a bit underpowered so it was not a fast trip and the engine raced from time to time.
A palm lined beach en route.
Following Ron's boat.
Overtaken by a commercial river boat.
It was possible to sail from time to time but mostly the wind was on the nose. After anchoring at Canavieiras at 15:40 I dived down to find the propellor badly fouled with barnacles and other growth. It got a good clean.
Floating oyster bars at Canavieiras.
Afterwards we dinghied across to one of the floating oyster bars. There are oyster farms nearby so the oysters served are about as fresh as you can get. One could have oysters raw with lime juice or cooked with cheese. I had both options.
Relaxing in a hammock at the oyster bar.
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We left Galeão on a flooding tide at 12:40 and it was simply a matter of following the track closely. Although the Canal de Taperoa and Canal de Tinharé, through which we passed, are mostly deep there are shallow patches where deviating from the track would result in a grounding. Kiriwina seemed to be a bit underpowered so it was not a fast trip and the engine raced from time to time.
A palm lined beach en route.
Following Ron's boat.
Overtaken by a commercial river boat.
It was possible to sail from time to time but mostly the wind was on the nose. After anchoring at Canavieiras at 15:40 I dived down to find the propellor badly fouled with barnacles and other growth. It got a good clean.
Floating oyster bars at Canavieiras.
Afterwards we dinghied across to one of the floating oyster bars. There are oyster farms nearby so the oysters served are about as fresh as you can get. One could have oysters raw with lime juice or cooked with cheese. I had both options.
Relaxing in a hammock at the oyster bar.
≈
São Sebastiao
14/09/08 22:52
We were invited by council candidate Paulino aboard the boat Obrigado Meu Pai which he had chartered for the day to take supporters to a political rally in São Sebastiao at the south end of Boipeba island.
Our boat Obrigado Meu Pai
Our skipper
A beach en route.
Candidate Paulino with Ron.
Marli wearing Paulino campaign stickers.
It was a lovely trip down the river with a lively party atmosphere. We left at around 09:00 and stopped at Cairu en route to pick up a pilot.
Approaching Cairu
Dende Palms along the way.
Ron and I took hand held GPS's to record a route for possible future use.
The pilotage out of the river and into Camamu bay was quite dramatic with rocks close on both sides.
Exiting the river.
It would be possible to navigate Kiriwina here at high water but in order to cross the reef strewn bay to Camamu more detailed local knowledge would be required.
More reefs approaching São Sebastiao.
There were lots of other political boats and a large rally ashore at São Sebastiao. We had a picnic on the beach, walked round a bit and then sat in the shade watching the world go by.
Marli preparing lunch.
A view overlooking São Sebastiao
The main street.
The trip back to Galeão on a flooding tide was a fairly boozy affair. I had a steer of the boat en route and we got back around 21:00.
Loading the boats for the trip home.
Our full boat.
Ron having a steer on the way home.
Our boat Obrigado Meu Pai
Our skipper
A beach en route.
Candidate Paulino with Ron.
Marli wearing Paulino campaign stickers.
It was a lovely trip down the river with a lively party atmosphere. We left at around 09:00 and stopped at Cairu en route to pick up a pilot.
Approaching Cairu
Dende Palms along the way.
Ron and I took hand held GPS's to record a route for possible future use.
The pilotage out of the river and into Camamu bay was quite dramatic with rocks close on both sides.
Exiting the river.
It would be possible to navigate Kiriwina here at high water but in order to cross the reef strewn bay to Camamu more detailed local knowledge would be required.
More reefs approaching São Sebastiao.
There were lots of other political boats and a large rally ashore at São Sebastiao. We had a picnic on the beach, walked round a bit and then sat in the shade watching the world go by.
Marli preparing lunch.
A view overlooking São Sebastiao
The main street.
The trip back to Galeão on a flooding tide was a fairly boozy affair. I had a steer of the boat en route and we got back around 21:00.
Loading the boats for the trip home.
Our full boat.
Ron having a steer on the way home.