Bahia
Aratu to Salvador
23/04/08 22:34
As usual a lot of things were left to the last minute.
Finally, by mid afternoon, I had the boat pretty much squared away. All running rigging, the sails, and boom had been removed and stowed below. The diesel tank was topped up, fridge emptied and the gas turned off.
All electrics were shut down but the wind generator was left operational to keep the batteries charged.
Manfred from the yacht club kindly volunteered to check the boat from time to time and came out for a briefing.
I was taken ashore in the yacht club launch and took a taxi into Salvador where I stayed at Pousada Baluarte. A lovely little guesthouse tucked down a side street not far from the Pelhourinho.
After venturing out for a quick steak I had an early night.
Finally, by mid afternoon, I had the boat pretty much squared away. All running rigging, the sails, and boom had been removed and stowed below. The diesel tank was topped up, fridge emptied and the gas turned off.
All electrics were shut down but the wind generator was left operational to keep the batteries charged.
Manfred from the yacht club kindly volunteered to check the boat from time to time and came out for a briefing.
I was taken ashore in the yacht club launch and took a taxi into Salvador where I stayed at Pousada Baluarte. A lovely little guesthouse tucked down a side street not far from the Pelhourinho.
After venturing out for a quick steak I had an early night.
Travessia Baía Regatta Day 3
21/04/08 22:32
Today there was wind from the start. Proceedings got under way at 11:00 and 6 hours later I moored in Aratu having crossed the line last again.
Winds were mainly F2-3 and in these speeds Kiriwina is very slow. Even if all her cruising gear was taken off she would still be slow. That said, it is not a whole lot of fun coming last all the time.
Winds were mainly F2-3 and in these speeds Kiriwina is very slow. Even if all her cruising gear was taken off she would still be slow. That said, it is not a whole lot of fun coming last all the time.
Travessia Baía Regatta Day 2
20/04/08 21:31
Yet another lovely day but there was no wind. At start time (13:15) it was virtually mirror calm. The course was shortened.
Sails hanging limp as day two of the regatta gets under way.
Some larger boats have moved off in very light variable winds. Meantime Kiriwina was drifting back towards the committee boat....
....with a boat speed 0f 0.3 knots. This was less than the slowly flooding tide.
Some boats motored away from the start line. Around 14:30 the wind picked up and it was possible to sail all the way to the finish line off Salinas where we arrived at 17:00.
Kiriwina was again last but at least the committee boat was still on station and we were recorded as finishing, Unlike yesterday.
In the evening the club had arranged a buffet meal and everyone went ashore to mingle. Due to my very limited portuguese not much communicating was done but this foreigner was made very welcome.
When it came time to return aboard the shuttle launch arranged by the club did not appear. Some members arranged another shuttle in some very overloaded dinghies.
Sails hanging limp as day two of the regatta gets under way.
Some larger boats have moved off in very light variable winds. Meantime Kiriwina was drifting back towards the committee boat....
....with a boat speed 0f 0.3 knots. This was less than the slowly flooding tide.
Some boats motored away from the start line. Around 14:30 the wind picked up and it was possible to sail all the way to the finish line off Salinas where we arrived at 17:00.
Kiriwina was again last but at least the committee boat was still on station and we were recorded as finishing, Unlike yesterday.
In the evening the club had arranged a buffet meal and everyone went ashore to mingle. Due to my very limited portuguese not much communicating was done but this foreigner was made very welcome.
When it came time to return aboard the shuttle launch arranged by the club did not appear. Some members arranged another shuttle in some very overloaded dinghies.
Travessia Baía Regatta Day 1
19/04/08 20:30
This was the first time I had entered a regatta. About 30 boats from Aratu Iate Clube and other clubs in the area had entered.
At 10:35 I dropped the mooring and motored off to the start line off the entrance to Aratu inner channel.
At the start boats were tacking back and forth to gain optimum position at the start. At around 12:10 we were off.
Travessia Baía Regatta Day 1, Start line.
Kiriwina is not built for speed and fully loaded for cruising, as she is now, she is slow in light winds. The bigger faster boats disappeared into the distance. The course involved tacking to a point just north of Salvador harbour then steering for a point north of Ilha Itaparica.
By the time was approaching reached the first checkpoint the committee boat had left position and was proceeding to the finish line. I got to Itaparica in the dark long after the others had finished and this despite having to motor sail some of the way. At anchor off the marina I decided not to go ashore.
At 10:35 I dropped the mooring and motored off to the start line off the entrance to Aratu inner channel.
At the start boats were tacking back and forth to gain optimum position at the start. At around 12:10 we were off.
Travessia Baía Regatta Day 1, Start line.
Kiriwina is not built for speed and fully loaded for cruising, as she is now, she is slow in light winds. The bigger faster boats disappeared into the distance. The course involved tacking to a point just north of Salvador harbour then steering for a point north of Ilha Itaparica.
By the time was approaching reached the first checkpoint the committee boat had left position and was proceeding to the finish line. I got to Itaparica in the dark long after the others had finished and this despite having to motor sail some of the way. At anchor off the marina I decided not to go ashore.
Itaparica to Aratu
18/04/08 22:14
I needed to get back to Aratu. Tomorrow the Travessia Baía Regatta starts from there. I left Itaparica at 09:00 and moored off Aratu Iate Clube at 12:45.
Aratu Iate Clube - Clubhouse and pontoons.
Aratu Iate Clube - Clubhouse and pontoons.
Itaparica
16/04/08 22:23
I picked up my certificate this morning and left for Itaparica at just after 12:00, arriving at 15:00. Again the winds were light and it was necessary to motor sail.
Passing Fort San Lourenco at the north end of Ilha Itaparica.
Naval de-gaussing station off Fort San Lourenco.
Kiriwina at Itaparica Marina.
Fort San Lourenco.
In and around Itaparica.
Portuguese style exterior tiling.
Footpath paved with shells.
Hotel verandah.
Waterfront with Salvador in the background.
Church square.
Passing Fort San Lourenco at the north end of Ilha Itaparica.
Naval de-gaussing station off Fort San Lourenco.
Kiriwina at Itaparica Marina.
Fort San Lourenco.
In and around Itaparica.
Portuguese style exterior tiling.
Footpath paved with shells.
Hotel verandah.
Waterfront with Salvador in the background.
Church square.
Salvador
15/04/08 21:22
Today I left Aratu at 06:25 bound for Salvador, arriving at 09:30.
Brazilian law allows a visitor to remain in the country for 6 months in any one calendar year. However a boat may remain for two years provided that it is registered with the authorities as "laid up and not in use" when the owner is away.
Firstly it is necessary to obtain a letter from the relevant mooring installation, in my case Aratu Iate Clube, stating that the yacht is moored and not in use. This must then be endorsed by the Capitania dos Portos and with the ship's papers presented to the Receite General who will open a file and issue a certificate confirming that the yacht is laid up.
I was told to come back and get my certificate tomorrow.
Lacerda Elevator Salvador - Upper Entrance.
Looking down on the Centro Nautico and Marina at Salvador
Salvador Town Hall
Plano Inclinado linking upper and lower Salvador.
Bar Galicia in the Pelhourino where two bad guys attempted to pick my pockets.
Overlooking Centro Nautico and Mercado Modelo with the Lacerda Elevator to the left.
Brazilian law allows a visitor to remain in the country for 6 months in any one calendar year. However a boat may remain for two years provided that it is registered with the authorities as "laid up and not in use" when the owner is away.
Firstly it is necessary to obtain a letter from the relevant mooring installation, in my case Aratu Iate Clube, stating that the yacht is moored and not in use. This must then be endorsed by the Capitania dos Portos and with the ship's papers presented to the Receite General who will open a file and issue a certificate confirming that the yacht is laid up.
I was told to come back and get my certificate tomorrow.
Lacerda Elevator Salvador - Upper Entrance.
Looking down on the Centro Nautico and Marina at Salvador
Salvador Town Hall
Plano Inclinado linking upper and lower Salvador.
Bar Galicia in the Pelhourino where two bad guys attempted to pick my pockets.
Overlooking Centro Nautico and Mercado Modelo with the Lacerda Elevator to the left.
Aratu
14/04/08 21:10
Günter and schatzi at Aratu Iate Clube about to leave for their flight back to Vienna.
I spent the day pottering about the boat and arranging my flight to Argentina on 24th April. I will be flying with GOL at a cost of Reals $810.37.
Kiriwina is entered for the forthcoming Travessia Baía Regatta run by Aratu Iate Clube.
I spent the day pottering about the boat and arranging my flight to Argentina on 24th April. I will be flying with GOL at a cost of Reals $810.37.
Kiriwina is entered for the forthcoming Travessia Baía Regatta run by Aratu Iate Clube.
Itaparica to Aratu
13/04/08 22:21
Today we returned to Aratu, leaving Itaparica at 08:00. Another lovely day motor sailing in light winds.
Cora-Mae under full sail.
Voyage time to Aratu, 4 hours.
Kiriwina on her mooring at Aratu Iate Clube.
Cora-Mae under full sail.
Voyage time to Aratu, 4 hours.
Kiriwina on her mooring at Aratu Iate Clube.
Itaparica
12/04/08 02:06
Another lovely sunny day in Itaparica.
Mama Nora, the laundry lady, with Günter...
....and self.
Mama Nora, the laundry lady, with Günter...
....and self.
Salvador to Itaparica
11/04/08 20:20
Another early start at 08:45. We were bound for Itaparica.
A small south african Junk rigged yacht passed en route to Itaparica.
We arrived at Itaparica marina at 12:40 and immediately dinghied over to the sandbank for a walk and a swim.
A very large dugout canoe used for fishing.
Itaparica marina.
Kiriwina interior.
A small south african Junk rigged yacht passed en route to Itaparica.
We arrived at Itaparica marina at 12:40 and immediately dinghied over to the sandbank for a walk and a swim.
A very large dugout canoe used for fishing.
Itaparica marina.
Kiriwina interior.
Salvador
10/04/08 21:19
Yesterday Günther and I arranged to leave our boats at Aratu while he returned to Austria and I travelled to Argentina. The moorings are very safe, secure and sheltered. Ideal for leaving the boats unattended.
This morning we left early at 06:25 bound for Salvador.
Another Brazilian chemical tanker at anchor off Salvador.
Approaching the fort at Salvador.
We were all fast in Centro Nautico by 10:35. This was to be a short stop allowing Günther to complete formalities before leaving on the 15th.
This morning we left early at 06:25 bound for Salvador.
Another Brazilian chemical tanker at anchor off Salvador.
Approaching the fort at Salvador.
We were all fast in Centro Nautico by 10:35. This was to be a short stop allowing Günther to complete formalities before leaving on the 15th.
Ilha dos Frades to Aratu
08/04/08 21:18
We left the anchorage at 09:35 and went back round the eastern side of Ilha do Frade to Punta Guadoloupe where we anchored at 11:00. It was calm and the water was clear so we had a swim and snorkeled on the reef before gong ashore for lunch.
Vultures on the beach at Punta Guadoluope.
Anchorage at Punta Guadoloupe.
An afternoon breeze sprang up and the anchorage became quite bouncy. We left at 14:00 bound for Aratu.
A Brazilan chemical tanker moored near the entrance to Aratu channel.
Aratu channel. Brazilian contrasts. A dugout canoe with Brazilian made cars lined up for export in the background.
At 17:30 we moored on allocated buoys at Aratu Iate Clube. Apart from the excellent Iate Clube there is very little of interest at Aratu. We were there to enquire about the possibility of leaving the boats moored for an extended period.
Vultures on the beach at Punta Guadoluope.
Anchorage at Punta Guadoloupe.
An afternoon breeze sprang up and the anchorage became quite bouncy. We left at 14:00 bound for Aratu.
A Brazilan chemical tanker moored near the entrance to Aratu channel.
Aratu channel. Brazilian contrasts. A dugout canoe with Brazilian made cars lined up for export in the background.
At 17:30 we moored on allocated buoys at Aratu Iate Clube. Apart from the excellent Iate Clube there is very little of interest at Aratu. We were there to enquire about the possibility of leaving the boats moored for an extended period.
Ilha dos Frades
07/04/08 20:16
Got up quite early and dinghied ashore for a shower under the waterfall.
Exposed beach at low tide.
Lots of these crabs with one large claw.
Tororó Waterfall (Shower)
After a short walk ashore we left Tororó at 11:00 bound for Ilha do Frade, motorsailing in light winds.
Church at the northern end of Ilha do Frade.
We anchored in a sheltered bay, tucked away on the north west corner of Ilha do Frade, at 14:50.
A lot of work was going on upgrading the waterfront and roads on this attractive part of the island. It was late afternoon and the mosquitos were out in force.
Later in the evening at 21:10 Kiriwina grounded astern in soft mud. I had underestimated the tide. By 22:45 she was listing 10º to starboard and the skipper was becoming a tad concerned. At 23:30 the tide turned and she refloated at 00:50 when I moved her to deeper water.
Anchorage location.
Exposed beach at low tide.
Lots of these crabs with one large claw.
Tororó Waterfall (Shower)
After a short walk ashore we left Tororó at 11:00 bound for Ilha do Frade, motorsailing in light winds.
Church at the northern end of Ilha do Frade.
We anchored in a sheltered bay, tucked away on the north west corner of Ilha do Frade, at 14:50.
A lot of work was going on upgrading the waterfront and roads on this attractive part of the island. It was late afternoon and the mosquitos were out in force.
Later in the evening at 21:10 Kiriwina grounded astern in soft mud. I had underestimated the tide. By 22:45 she was listing 10º to starboard and the skipper was becoming a tad concerned. At 23:30 the tide turned and she refloated at 00:50 when I moved her to deeper water.
Anchorage location.
Tororó Waterfall
06/04/08 22:16
Tororó waterfall, situated on the western side of Ilha Mandaratiba, is about 10 miles from Itaparica Marina. The route shallows in places so we left around 11:00 on a rising tide and arrived at 13:40.
Günter on Cora-Mae
A privately owned island en route.
Tororó waterfall.
When we arrived off the waterfall there was a party in progress. A large group of Brazilians were celebrating a birthday. We dinghied ashore to have a look around.
As the tide comes in the beach is completely submerged. This did not bother the party goers who remained where they were merely placing their food and beer clear of the water.
Tororó waterfall. Flow varies considerably with rainfall.
Some people arrived by dug out canoe. (very common in these parts.)
Others in the main party boat.
While we were there a band showed up in a canoe.
Self with the band canoe behind.
Palms on a private estate a little further north on Ilha Mandaratiba.
Another dug-out canoe tucked away near the falls.
Günter on Cora-Mae
A privately owned island en route.
Tororó waterfall.
When we arrived off the waterfall there was a party in progress. A large group of Brazilians were celebrating a birthday. We dinghied ashore to have a look around.
As the tide comes in the beach is completely submerged. This did not bother the party goers who remained where they were merely placing their food and beer clear of the water.
Tororó waterfall. Flow varies considerably with rainfall.
Some people arrived by dug out canoe. (very common in these parts.)
Others in the main party boat.
While we were there a band showed up in a canoe.
Self with the band canoe behind.
Palms on a private estate a little further north on Ilha Mandaratiba.
Another dug-out canoe tucked away near the falls.
Itaparica
03/04/08 23:15
Itaparica island is about 12 miles from Salvador. In the morning Günter and I visited the Capitania to buy a large scale chart of Baía de Todos os Santos. As a security measure we had decided to travel in convoy assuming that the banditos would more likely to attack lone vessels.
With one thing and another we were not ready to leave until 16:00. This put us off Itaparica in darkness and while the marina approach is pretty straightforward it was complicated by numerous buoys, beacons and structures which were not on our new charts. Not to mention many anchored yachts without lights.
We crept in and moored alongside at Itaparica marina at 19:20. A turkish restaurant in the marina complex served excellent steaks.
4th April
Behind the marina there is a fresh water spring where lovely mineral water is available for free. The marina staff said the water supplied on their pontoons came from the same source. Günter and Schatzi went off sightseeing while I spent the day flushing my fresh water tanks and refilling them with mineral water. Unfortunately to avoid all sorts of things growing in the tanks I had to add some bleach to the water.
Spring water filling point constructed in 1842.
Leaking fresh water tank purchased new in 2006. Until I can repair it Kiriwina's water capacity is reduced by 30%.
Marina pontoons at Itaparica.
Marina shore complex including offices and restaurants.
5th April
In the morning we dinghied out to a nearby sand bank for a swim and snorkel. The water was not very clear with visibility only 1-2 meters and probably not unconnected with the multiple rivers which drain into the bay.
In the afternoon we caught a freelance mini bus to a nearby beach. These are VW Kombis or similar and pickup/drop passengers on request.
Itaparica has a completely different feel to Salvador.
For the first time I was able to relax and walk around normally. Attacks on gringos are quite rare here compared with Salvador.
Praia de Areia - Itaparica
With one thing and another we were not ready to leave until 16:00. This put us off Itaparica in darkness and while the marina approach is pretty straightforward it was complicated by numerous buoys, beacons and structures which were not on our new charts. Not to mention many anchored yachts without lights.
We crept in and moored alongside at Itaparica marina at 19:20. A turkish restaurant in the marina complex served excellent steaks.
4th April
Behind the marina there is a fresh water spring where lovely mineral water is available for free. The marina staff said the water supplied on their pontoons came from the same source. Günter and Schatzi went off sightseeing while I spent the day flushing my fresh water tanks and refilling them with mineral water. Unfortunately to avoid all sorts of things growing in the tanks I had to add some bleach to the water.
Spring water filling point constructed in 1842.
Leaking fresh water tank purchased new in 2006. Until I can repair it Kiriwina's water capacity is reduced by 30%.
Marina pontoons at Itaparica.
Marina shore complex including offices and restaurants.
5th April
In the morning we dinghied out to a nearby sand bank for a swim and snorkel. The water was not very clear with visibility only 1-2 meters and probably not unconnected with the multiple rivers which drain into the bay.
In the afternoon we caught a freelance mini bus to a nearby beach. These are VW Kombis or similar and pickup/drop passengers on request.
Itaparica has a completely different feel to Salvador.
For the first time I was able to relax and walk around normally. Attacks on gringos are quite rare here compared with Salvador.
Praia de Areia - Itaparica
Salvador
01/04/08 21:15
Manfred Marktel, about to depart on "Maus" for another trip to an island somewhere in the south Atlantic.
Günter wanted to check at the police station to see if any progress had been made on recovering his camera. Dream on! The police were on strike and had posted helpful notices in Portuguese and English informing all and sundry.
A sculpture site near the site of the first church built in Salvador (sadly recently demolished). Günter and girlfriend Schatzi who has joined him for two weeks.
A view from the Pelhourinho over the harbour towards Ilha Itaparica.
A second way to move between Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa. The plano inclinado Goncalves. Cost R$0.05 (the same as the Lacerda elavator).
Günter, Shatzi and self.
Günter wanted to check at the police station to see if any progress had been made on recovering his camera. Dream on! The police were on strike and had posted helpful notices in Portuguese and English informing all and sundry.
A sculpture site near the site of the first church built in Salvador (sadly recently demolished). Günter and girlfriend Schatzi who has joined him for two weeks.
A view from the Pelhourinho over the harbour towards Ilha Itaparica.
A second way to move between Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa. The plano inclinado Goncalves. Cost R$0.05 (the same as the Lacerda elavator).
Günter, Shatzi and self.