Cape Verdes
Mindelo
11/01/08 18:09
Our last
day in Mindelo and the Cape Verdes.
In the 24 hours before departure we have to complete two formalities. The first is to visit the DGP port police and clear Kiriwina out. I arrived at 10:15 and waited at reception while an officer went upstairs to get our SSR certificate. Then I went to the treasury office in another part of the building where an invoice for Esc 500 was raised and a clearance certificate produced. A guide was helpfully provided to escort me round the building.
My guide then took me to the accounts office where I paid the invoice. Finally we returned to reception where a note was made in a clearance ledger and we were done.
The second formality was to have exit stamps put in our passports. I arrived at 10:45 and was told the officer was not there and to come back at 12:00. I did and he still wasn't there. I was told to return at 14:00. I did and he still wasn't there. I was told to come back at 15:00. I decided to wait and he showed up at 14:30. Passports stamped. Formalities complete
I climbed the mast to check both foresail halyards and wash things as best I could.. The yankee halyard was fine but the staysail halyard shows signs of chafe from the furling gear and will need to be watched. As with the running rigging everything was coated with a salt/reddish dust paste.
Kiriwina on her berth at Mindelo.
We stocked up with fresh fruit, eggs and vegetables and topped up the fresh water tanks. My repair of yesterday, to the centre water tank, seems to have held. Total fresh water used 160 litres.
Dame Kiri had her chafe protection replaced and all the running gear that had been removed for cleaning was re-rigged. We were ready to go.
Later we had a very nice meal at Cafe Mindelo and Tomas never got his knife back.
In the 24 hours before departure we have to complete two formalities. The first is to visit the DGP port police and clear Kiriwina out. I arrived at 10:15 and waited at reception while an officer went upstairs to get our SSR certificate. Then I went to the treasury office in another part of the building where an invoice for Esc 500 was raised and a clearance certificate produced. A guide was helpfully provided to escort me round the building.
My guide then took me to the accounts office where I paid the invoice. Finally we returned to reception where a note was made in a clearance ledger and we were done.
The second formality was to have exit stamps put in our passports. I arrived at 10:45 and was told the officer was not there and to come back at 12:00. I did and he still wasn't there. I was told to return at 14:00. I did and he still wasn't there. I was told to come back at 15:00. I decided to wait and he showed up at 14:30. Passports stamped. Formalities complete
I climbed the mast to check both foresail halyards and wash things as best I could.. The yankee halyard was fine but the staysail halyard shows signs of chafe from the furling gear and will need to be watched. As with the running rigging everything was coated with a salt/reddish dust paste.
Kiriwina on her berth at Mindelo.
We stocked up with fresh fruit, eggs and vegetables and topped up the fresh water tanks. My repair of yesterday, to the centre water tank, seems to have held. Total fresh water used 160 litres.
Dame Kiri had her chafe protection replaced and all the running gear that had been removed for cleaning was re-rigged. We were ready to go.
Later we had a very nice meal at Cafe Mindelo and Tomas never got his knife back.
Mindelo
10/01/08 20:59
Water is
scarce on Mindelo and supplies at the marina are metered and cost
Esc 2.00 per litre.
Before topping up with fresh water I checked the bilge. Normally it contains a small amount of water at the bottom but now it was about 2/3 full with fresh water. The source of this water turned out to be the newest of our three under floor flexible storage tanks. This had been purchased in May 2006
It was a small leak at the corner or one seam. Over 9 days about half the contents had leaked into the bilge. Fortunately this tank is isolated from the other two or all our fresh water could have leaked out over time.
I dried it out as much as possible and attempted a repair with inflatable boat adhesive.
Running rigging that had not been removed earlier was taken down, washed in salt water then rinsed in fresh. Using buckets of fresh water we washed as much of the boat as possible. The amount of dust and salt we had picked up on route was amazing and a new layer of fine dust was a being added in Mindelo.
Total fresh water used was 130 litres.
Before topping up with fresh water I checked the bilge. Normally it contains a small amount of water at the bottom but now it was about 2/3 full with fresh water. The source of this water turned out to be the newest of our three under floor flexible storage tanks. This had been purchased in May 2006
It was a small leak at the corner or one seam. Over 9 days about half the contents had leaked into the bilge. Fortunately this tank is isolated from the other two or all our fresh water could have leaked out over time.
I dried it out as much as possible and attempted a repair with inflatable boat adhesive.
Running rigging that had not been removed earlier was taken down, washed in salt water then rinsed in fresh. Using buckets of fresh water we washed as much of the boat as possible. The amount of dust and salt we had picked up on route was amazing and a new layer of fine dust was a being added in Mindelo.
Total fresh water used was 130 litres.
Ilha do Santo Antão
09/01/08 16:00
Last
night we met up with some fellow yachties in the Club Nautico and
arranged to do a day tour of a nearby island, Santo Antão.
Our Armas ferry was due to leave at 08:00. At 07:50 they hoisted the gangway aboard and Tomas and I got caught between the crew who told us to board via the car deck and a dock policeman who said we couldn't board. Eventually the policeman was over-ruled by his superior and we boarded via the car deck.
On board we met Martin and Roma from "Apple", Jeff from "Sierra" and Melanie and Kass from "Cooya". The trip across took a bit over an hour with a one way ticket costing Esc 700 (€1=Esc110). At the arrival dock in Porto Novo we hired a mini bus with driver for the day.
First stop was to book our return passage. The afternoon ferry sailing had been cancelled. Fortunately the competing fast hydrofoil had an afternoon sailing at a cost of Esc 600.
Our tour covered only the northern portion of Santo Antão. The south is sparsely populated and mainly barren. All the roads we travelled were cobbled and the engineering was impressive. This part of the island included a large steep sided volcanic crater with the northen side open to the sea.
There are few private cars. Locals walk or catch Aluguer hire vehicles.
We started in Porto Novo. The road goes north and climbs to about 1800m where it skirts a crater rim and then winds down steep valley walls to Porta do Sol on the north coast. The valley walls are extensively terraced to maximise crop production and are accessed by an amazing network of paths.
Once over the central ridge the island changes from near desert to lush fertile valleys.
The way down to Porta do Sol.
Public art in Porta do Sol. We stopped here for lunch. Our driver chose a very expensive restaurant which we declined. Jeff stuck his head in a doorway and discovered a little cafe where we were very well fed at a modest cost.
After lunch we drove round the north coast to the valley of Ribeira do Paul passing through this village en route.
Ribeira do Paul is jaw droppingly stunning. A steepside lush fertile valley with small villages and charming stone thatched cottages. The scale is immense and these photos in no way do it justice.
School was coming out as we passed through.
We got about halfway along the valley before it was time to turn back.
All poultry is free range here.
A pebble beach on the north coast.
Porto Novo harbour and our fast hydrofoil back. It would not be safe to leave a yacht unattended here.
The hydrofoil in Mindelo harbour.
Martin and Roma with their boat "Apple". Mindelo harbour.
Our Armas ferry was due to leave at 08:00. At 07:50 they hoisted the gangway aboard and Tomas and I got caught between the crew who told us to board via the car deck and a dock policeman who said we couldn't board. Eventually the policeman was over-ruled by his superior and we boarded via the car deck.
On board we met Martin and Roma from "Apple", Jeff from "Sierra" and Melanie and Kass from "Cooya". The trip across took a bit over an hour with a one way ticket costing Esc 700 (€1=Esc110). At the arrival dock in Porto Novo we hired a mini bus with driver for the day.
First stop was to book our return passage. The afternoon ferry sailing had been cancelled. Fortunately the competing fast hydrofoil had an afternoon sailing at a cost of Esc 600.
Our tour covered only the northern portion of Santo Antão. The south is sparsely populated and mainly barren. All the roads we travelled were cobbled and the engineering was impressive. This part of the island included a large steep sided volcanic crater with the northen side open to the sea.
There are few private cars. Locals walk or catch Aluguer hire vehicles.
We started in Porto Novo. The road goes north and climbs to about 1800m where it skirts a crater rim and then winds down steep valley walls to Porta do Sol on the north coast. The valley walls are extensively terraced to maximise crop production and are accessed by an amazing network of paths.
Once over the central ridge the island changes from near desert to lush fertile valleys.
The way down to Porta do Sol.
Public art in Porta do Sol. We stopped here for lunch. Our driver chose a very expensive restaurant which we declined. Jeff stuck his head in a doorway and discovered a little cafe where we were very well fed at a modest cost.
After lunch we drove round the north coast to the valley of Ribeira do Paul passing through this village en route.
Ribeira do Paul is jaw droppingly stunning. A steepside lush fertile valley with small villages and charming stone thatched cottages. The scale is immense and these photos in no way do it justice.
School was coming out as we passed through.
We got about halfway along the valley before it was time to turn back.
All poultry is free range here.
A pebble beach on the north coast.
Porto Novo harbour and our fast hydrofoil back. It would not be safe to leave a yacht unattended here.
The hydrofoil in Mindelo harbour.
Martin and Roma with their boat "Apple". Mindelo harbour.
Mindelo
08/01/08 20:56
There is
not a lot in the way of visitor attractions on Sao Vicente.
Mindelo is a sleepy little place where it easy easy to pass a few relaxing days without doing anything very much. This is what we did.
We found the people here very friendly and helpful and apart from the odd beggar there was a total absence of hustlers. The streets were clean and with a bit of searching we found most things we needed. The hardware stores, of which there were several, were particularly useful.
Most evenings it was possible to eat in a bar or restaurant featuring live music.
We removed the main halyard and both sets of foresail sheets for cleaning. They were heavily encrusted with salt and reddish dust. We found that soaking in seawater for a while followed by several seawater rinses removed most of the dirt. There was no fresh water available today but when it is everything will get a final fresh water rinse.
Mindelo Marina is quite a large new complex with the pontoons anchored with chains rather than piles. Movement on the marina is quite uncomfortable with lines snatching and jerking the boat about. The motion of boats in the marina is much more pronounced than with those at anchor. It is however very secure and the dinghy park for boats at anchor is well used.
Several yachties I spoke to thought that when filled with boats one or more of the pontoons would have a good chance of breaking away. During our stay there was often 15-20 knots of wind blowing off the hills down over the marina.
Mindelo Marina reception area with the town centre beyond.
A new leisure complex under construction just west of the marina.
Looking east across new unoccupied pontoons.
A view south towards the pontoons for larger boats.
Our pontoon with bow to moorings on one side and stern to on the other.
Two views of the anchorage.
Mindelo is a sleepy little place where it easy easy to pass a few relaxing days without doing anything very much. This is what we did.
We found the people here very friendly and helpful and apart from the odd beggar there was a total absence of hustlers. The streets were clean and with a bit of searching we found most things we needed. The hardware stores, of which there were several, were particularly useful.
Most evenings it was possible to eat in a bar or restaurant featuring live music.
We removed the main halyard and both sets of foresail sheets for cleaning. They were heavily encrusted with salt and reddish dust. We found that soaking in seawater for a while followed by several seawater rinses removed most of the dirt. There was no fresh water available today but when it is everything will get a final fresh water rinse.
Mindelo Marina is quite a large new complex with the pontoons anchored with chains rather than piles. Movement on the marina is quite uncomfortable with lines snatching and jerking the boat about. The motion of boats in the marina is much more pronounced than with those at anchor. It is however very secure and the dinghy park for boats at anchor is well used.
Several yachties I spoke to thought that when filled with boats one or more of the pontoons would have a good chance of breaking away. During our stay there was often 15-20 knots of wind blowing off the hills down over the marina.
Mindelo Marina reception area with the town centre beyond.
A new leisure complex under construction just west of the marina.
Looking east across new unoccupied pontoons.
A view south towards the pontoons for larger boats.
Our pontoon with bow to moorings on one side and stern to on the other.
Two views of the anchorage.
Mindelo
05/01/08 20:30
This
anchorage is very calm. We enjoyed a very restful night.
Our excitement for the day started with Tomas having a dish washing malfunction which resulted in our only pressure cooker gasket going over the side along with the dishwater. To his very great credit an my amazement Tomas donned fins and mask, jumped overboard and 20 minutes later retrieved the gasket.
Kiriwina at anchor in Mindelo harbour. Ilha de Santo Antão is in the background and an old fort is at centre right.
We deployed "Kiriwini" and went ashore to see if the marina was operational. It was but only partially. We would have electricity and a "bows to" mooring but no water showers or toilets. This for €12.50. We returned to the boat and moved into the marina. Walking out the gate to get a cool drink at the Club Nautico our first hustle started in 6 seconds. Fortunately it was also our last apart from some unenthusiastic begging.
Back on board and tidying up Kiriwina was filthy with salt and dust. The marineros offer boat cleaning services but quite how they do this without water was not clear.
Later we went ashore. Mindelo seems a pleasant enough place. It was unthreatening and reminded me more of the poorer parts of southern europe 30 years ago rather than Africa. We got cash from a bank machine and found a place where we could eat, check our e-mail and listen to live music.
Tomas reckoned his knife was picked from his backpack by a couple of children on the way back to the boat. I'm not totally convinced but he is going to try and find them and buy it back.
Our excitement for the day started with Tomas having a dish washing malfunction which resulted in our only pressure cooker gasket going over the side along with the dishwater. To his very great credit an my amazement Tomas donned fins and mask, jumped overboard and 20 minutes later retrieved the gasket.
Kiriwina at anchor in Mindelo harbour. Ilha de Santo Antão is in the background and an old fort is at centre right.
We deployed "Kiriwini" and went ashore to see if the marina was operational. It was but only partially. We would have electricity and a "bows to" mooring but no water showers or toilets. This for €12.50. We returned to the boat and moved into the marina. Walking out the gate to get a cool drink at the Club Nautico our first hustle started in 6 seconds. Fortunately it was also our last apart from some unenthusiastic begging.
Back on board and tidying up Kiriwina was filthy with salt and dust. The marineros offer boat cleaning services but quite how they do this without water was not clear.
Later we went ashore. Mindelo seems a pleasant enough place. It was unthreatening and reminded me more of the poorer parts of southern europe 30 years ago rather than Africa. We got cash from a bank machine and found a place where we could eat, check our e-mail and listen to live music.
Tomas reckoned his knife was picked from his backpack by a couple of children on the way back to the boat. I'm not totally convinced but he is going to try and find them and buy it back.
At Sea 1-4 January 2008
04/01/08 20:43
1 January
2008
Up until now we had experienced mostly sunny weather. Today it became overcast and cooler. I was wearing pretty much the same kit I would wear sailing in April/May in the English channel.
The wind continued to average 20kn from ENE but the seas moderated somewhat. We were able to tune in to Radio Austria International for part of the new years day concert from Vienna. We were doing around 5 knots over the ground with full staysail and 2 reefs in the main. With the wind on our port quarter or even further astern we rolled a lot.
If current speed is maintained we could reach Mindelo on Friday.
2 January 2008
By now we had traced most of the many locker rattles and were experiencing a much quieter cabin and better sleep as a result.
Another grey miserable day but our good progress continued. Sometimes we felt rain drops but nothing that could be called rain developed. Mindelo on friday is now looking very promising.
Generally Kiriwina has a very dry cockpit but on this point of sail with the weather stern we occasional get a bucket or two in the cockpit. Nothing serious but bracing if caught without a high collar. Down below we are completely dry.
The wind continued at ENE F5-6, about one beaufort level higher than forecast.
Day's run at noon 116 miles with 253 miles to go.
3 January 2008
In the early hours we ran under main only (2 reefs) with the wind gusting to 30 knots. Later usual service of F5-6 resumed.
A large swell with the crest breaking astern of us.
During the afternoon patches of blue sky appeared. Some stars were visible at night but not to the extent seen on the first few nights.
134 miles to go at noon.
4th January 2008
During the early morning watch I was able to pick up Cape Verde FM radio which cheered things up a bit. The wind was now almost astern and we had the main well out to starboard on a preventer.
During the morning we had our first flying fish. Far too small to be of any use but evidence of our nearing tropical waters.
A high point on Ilha de San Antao was sighted at 08:40.
We entered the channel between Ilha de San Antao and Ilha de Sao Vicente at 12:00. The wind was now around ENE 25kn but the reported acceleration (40-50kn) in the channel did not happen.
Ilha dos Passaros was left to starboard at 14:40 and at 15:35 we rounded Pontoa do Cais into Mindelo harbour.
Ilha dos Passaros
Boat CV, the marina operator at Mindelo did not respond to VHF calls (they don't have a VHF), nor did they respond to attempts to phone (their listed number had been disconnected). We motored over to the pontoons but with no sign of any staff and mooring arrangements unclear we decided to anchor. So much for german efficiency (the owner is german) but then, TIA.
We finally anchored at 16:20 in 4.4 metres of water and veered 30 metres of chain. Winds across the harbour gusted to 20 knots over a short fetch but there was little movement. Tomas cooked a nice meal after which we turned in early and slept for almost 12 hours.
Total passage 805.9 miles in 7 days 3.6 hours.
Up until now we had experienced mostly sunny weather. Today it became overcast and cooler. I was wearing pretty much the same kit I would wear sailing in April/May in the English channel.
The wind continued to average 20kn from ENE but the seas moderated somewhat. We were able to tune in to Radio Austria International for part of the new years day concert from Vienna. We were doing around 5 knots over the ground with full staysail and 2 reefs in the main. With the wind on our port quarter or even further astern we rolled a lot.
If current speed is maintained we could reach Mindelo on Friday.
2 January 2008
By now we had traced most of the many locker rattles and were experiencing a much quieter cabin and better sleep as a result.
Another grey miserable day but our good progress continued. Sometimes we felt rain drops but nothing that could be called rain developed. Mindelo on friday is now looking very promising.
Generally Kiriwina has a very dry cockpit but on this point of sail with the weather stern we occasional get a bucket or two in the cockpit. Nothing serious but bracing if caught without a high collar. Down below we are completely dry.
The wind continued at ENE F5-6, about one beaufort level higher than forecast.
Day's run at noon 116 miles with 253 miles to go.
3 January 2008
In the early hours we ran under main only (2 reefs) with the wind gusting to 30 knots. Later usual service of F5-6 resumed.
A large swell with the crest breaking astern of us.
During the afternoon patches of blue sky appeared. Some stars were visible at night but not to the extent seen on the first few nights.
134 miles to go at noon.
4th January 2008
During the early morning watch I was able to pick up Cape Verde FM radio which cheered things up a bit. The wind was now almost astern and we had the main well out to starboard on a preventer.
During the morning we had our first flying fish. Far too small to be of any use but evidence of our nearing tropical waters.
A high point on Ilha de San Antao was sighted at 08:40.
We entered the channel between Ilha de San Antao and Ilha de Sao Vicente at 12:00. The wind was now around ENE 25kn but the reported acceleration (40-50kn) in the channel did not happen.
Ilha dos Passaros was left to starboard at 14:40 and at 15:35 we rounded Pontoa do Cais into Mindelo harbour.
Ilha dos Passaros
Boat CV, the marina operator at Mindelo did not respond to VHF calls (they don't have a VHF), nor did they respond to attempts to phone (their listed number had been disconnected). We motored over to the pontoons but with no sign of any staff and mooring arrangements unclear we decided to anchor. So much for german efficiency (the owner is german) but then, TIA.
We finally anchored at 16:20 in 4.4 metres of water and veered 30 metres of chain. Winds across the harbour gusted to 20 knots over a short fetch but there was little movement. Tomas cooked a nice meal after which we turned in early and slept for almost 12 hours.
Total passage 805.9 miles in 7 days 3.6 hours.