Sailing with a Vancouver 28

Argentina

Mercedes to Tigre

Up at a reasonable hour to catch a 10:30 coach to Nueva Palmira.

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A virtualy empty marina at Nueva Palmira. Only a few local boats and no visiting boats at all.
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Much lower water levels today and lots of ocean bulkers at anchor waiting to load grain.
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The bridge on our Delta Argentino launch.
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Autumn in the Tigre delta.
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Back at Tigre on time at 18:00.
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Menkar - Launch

After an 8 month refit it was time for Gilles to launch Menkar.

Menkar awaiting launch at
CN Albatross near Buenos Aires.
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All went well and her new Yanmar ran like a sewing machine. After a short sea trial and some electrical work we left CN Albatros and move to a berth at
Parque Nautico, San Fernando.

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After mooring I left Gilles to attend to a variety of small jobs and prepare Menkar for sea.

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Velas Sudamérica 2010

The navies of Chile and Argentina jointly organised Velas Sudamérica 2010 and this week the tall ships are in Darsena Norte, Buenos Aires.

All the ships are open to the public free of charge.

Aboard
Simon Bolivar from Venezuela.
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My favourite, the Chilean
Esmeralda, viewed from the deck of Simon Bolivar.
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A forest of spars and rigging. The Argentine
Libertad with the Brazilian Cisne Branco astern.
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Libertad.
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As the sun set all the ships, apart from
Cisne Branco and Sagres who left their ensigns flying, began ensign lowering ceremonies.

The Mexica
n Cuahtémoc.
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Argentine navy band about to play their ensign down.
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The Spanish
Juan Sebastian Elcano, a four masted barquentine and older sister ship to Esmeralda.
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Esmeralda with Juan Sebastian Elcano astern. Esmeralda was originally intended to replace Juan Sebastian Elcano but due to financial problems in Spain she was sold to Chile part way through construction. Juan Sebastian Elcano was later restored. They are both magnificent ships.
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Esmeralda from another angle.
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Creative flaking of mooring lines aboard
Esmeralda.
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Sagres and Cuahtémoc.
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Strip lighting in the rigging aboard
Esmeralda.
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Subtle up-lighting on
Juan Sebastian Elcano. Esmeralda is ahead of her. Sagres and Cuahtémoc in the distance with strung bulb lighting.
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Simon Bolivar.
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Cisne Branco.
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Libertad.
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Juan Sebastian Elcano.
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Esmeralda.
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Sagres.
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Cuahtémoc.
Cuauhtemoc

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Campo Hash

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Puerto Sauce to Tigre

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Puerto Sauce to Tigre

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Tigre - Nueva Palmira - Colonia

Our lightly loaded ferry left Tigre at 07:30.

This route is certainly the most scenic crossing to Uruguay.


This complex off Rio Lujan offers moorings, apartments and golf courses. Perfect for some.
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Aboard the ferry.
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We were in Uruguay on time at 10:30/11:30 and after a slowish minibus trip arrived back in Colonia at 13:00 on a very hot day.
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Pool

It was hot today.

Best place to be was in the pool.
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Passport

Now in possession of an about to expire passport I visted the Australian embassy in the suburb of Belgrano.

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It is a lovely building but sadly the security is pretty overbearing. Mobile phones, but not ipods or cameras, have to be left in a locker at the gate. At least there is somewhere to leave them. Visitors do not find themselves with the problem described
here.

One is required to talk to the receptionist through a thick glass screen and it looked as though she got to breathe different air than us humble visitors. Given heavy security on the gate I wondered why it was necessary for such drastic separation from those the staff were there to serve.

That said, the process was very quick and efficient. I was sent away to get money (cash only) and some more photographs. They didn't like the ones I had.

An hour later everything was submitted. I have to return in 10 days to collect a new passport.

It has been difficult getting Uruguayan coastal charts. I had been told about
El Pulpo Negro in Beccar. An excellent shop with a large selection of charts and books in stock. They had everything I needed.

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Colonia - Nueva Palmira - Tigre

I need to renew a passport in Buenos Aires. The quickest way back was via BuqueBus from Colonia but they charge like wounded bulls.

An alternative is Lineas Delta Argentino from Nueva Palmira to Tigre. It takes longer but is cheaper (Arg$110) with a more convenient arrival at Tigre.

I nearly didn't make it. After trying to contact the Boteros for 40 minutes I got a lift ashore from a neighbouring boat and caught a taxi to the bus terminal.

A minibus from Colonia delivers passengers to the ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira. Immigration took only a few minutes.

Our traditional Argentine built delta ferry.
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It was not large but the interior was comfortable.
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Ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira, Uruguay.
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Harbour entrance.
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Yacht moorings. Anchor astern with bow lines to the shore. Not a place to leave the boat unattended for too long.
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Commercial harbour just downstream.
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Powering down the Rio Uruguay.
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Then we turned into Rio Sauce. Pretty much unpopulated with only the occasional cottage.
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At Arroyo Ceibito we turned south towards Rio Parana Guazu.
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Arroyo Ceibito is quite narrow. At times we touched the trees.
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Our route then took us west along the Rio Parana Guazu to the busy Rio Parana Mini.

Tanker Antonio M Ferro in the Parana Mini. Fully loaded with main deck submerged. This must be Tropical Fresh Water and then some under load line rule though I couldn't see any load line at all.
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There are still wrecks, even this far north.

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A timber carrier, also with main deck submerged.
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It was a lovely trip through the heart of the Delta. From Parana Mini we continued in Canal 4 before entering Canal Gobernador de la Serna until Rio Parana de las Palmas which we crossed into Canal Gobernador Arias. Finally we entered Rio Lujan and continued on to Tigre.

Nordelta complex off Rio Lujan
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A busy Estacion Fluvial in Tigre.
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Puerto Madero to Colonia

Today's forecast was for NE winds 17-21 knots backing W and then SW. I had cleared customs yesterday so we set off for immigration and the prefectura. All straight forward and we were back on board ready to go by 14:10 which meant we had to wait until the bridge opened again at 15:00.

Approaching the exit to Puerto Madero with the bridge just starting to open.
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It closed as soon as we were through.
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ARA Libertad in Puerto Madero.
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Yacht Club Argentino.
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It was a fast sail across will with 22-32 knots of wind on the port quarter (NW). More short steep seas and we only used between 2/3 and full yankee.

However, as the crew discovered, progress was not uncomfortable.
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We covered 30 miles in just over 5 hours, a very fast passage for Kiriwina. At Colonia there were only 2 vacant buoys and with NW7 over a long fetch in fading light it was a job to pick up a buoy. At the third attempt we made it.

The combination of wind over tide made for a very uncomfortable motion on board. We went ashore for dinner after which Nancy and Erica opted to sleep in a hostel.
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Deckhead Holes

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Response

Waiting for a bus in Recoleta this morning when 6 police cars arrived nearby. Officers left their cars, put on bullet proof jackets, drew their side arms and entered a building.

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By the time the bus arrived it was looking like a false alarm. They were leaving without anybody in custody.
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Santiago to Buenos Aires



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