Sailing with a Vancouver 28

Colonia

The weather here is certainly changeable. After heavy rain and strong SE winds overnight we had a huge rainbow just after 06:00.
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More rain and unsettled weather followed with the wind backing NE. Late afternoon saw very low dark clouds overhead.
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Tigre - Nueva Palmira - Colonia

Our lightly loaded ferry left Tigre at 07:30.

This route is certainly the most scenic crossing to Uruguay.


This complex off Rio Lujan offers moorings, apartments and golf courses. Perfect for some.
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Aboard the ferry.
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We were in Uruguay on time at 10:30/11:30 and after a slowish minibus trip arrived back in Colonia at 13:00 on a very hot day.
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Pool

It was hot today.

Best place to be was in the pool.
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Passport

Now in possession of an about to expire passport I visted the Australian embassy in the suburb of Belgrano.

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It is a lovely building but sadly the security is pretty overbearing. Mobile phones, but not ipods or cameras, have to be left in a locker at the gate. At least there is somewhere to leave them. Visitors do not find themselves with the problem described
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One is required to talk to the receptionist through a thick glass screen and it looked as though she got to breathe different air than us humble visitors. Given heavy security on the gate I wondered why it was necessary for such drastic separation from those the staff were there to serve.

That said, the process was very quick and efficient. I was sent away to get money (cash only) and some more photographs. They didn't like the ones I had.

An hour later everything was submitted. I have to return in 10 days to collect a new passport.

It has been difficult getting Uruguayan coastal charts. I had been told about
El Pulpo Negro in Beccar. An excellent shop with a large selection of charts and books in stock. They had everything I needed.

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Day Trip to Colonia

When renewing a passport it is necessary to bring the old one. A fact overlooked in my rush to catch the bus yesterday.

The best option was a day return to Colonia on
BuqueBus, booked online and costing Arg$133. I left BsAs at 09:30 and returned at 22:30 after spending about 3 hours aboard Kiriwina in Colonia.

Immigration formalities were very slick and fast. Argentine and Uruguayan immigration officers sit together and are able to process large numbers of passengers with virtually no delay. Chilean authorities please note! It can be done.

Eladia Isabel, comfortable tourist lounge with cafeteria. Other options are first class and special class. Tourist class was just fine.
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Galleria space featuring live music.
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Harbour entrance with Yacht Club Argentino to starboard.
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Eladia Isabel was built in 1994 and enlarged in 2005. Service speed is a relaxed 10 knots with a crossing time of 3 hours.
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Eladia Isabel in Colonia. Bow section. The car deck is open.
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One disembarks via an old unused terminal before entering the brand new ferry terminal at Colonia.
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Either there was a budget shortfall or a late supplier. The new departure lounge furnished with very second hand chairs from somewhere and old seating from one of the ferries.

Checkin was very slick. Insert a barcoded booking confirmation an out popped a boarding card.
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Sunset en route Colonia Buenos Aires.
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Colonia - Nueva Palmira - Tigre

I need to renew a passport in Buenos Aires. The quickest way back was via BuqueBus from Colonia but they charge like wounded bulls.

An alternative is Lineas Delta Argentino from Nueva Palmira to Tigre. It takes longer but is cheaper (Arg$110) with a more convenient arrival at Tigre.

I nearly didn't make it. After trying to contact the Boteros for 40 minutes I got a lift ashore from a neighbouring boat and caught a taxi to the bus terminal.

A minibus from Colonia delivers passengers to the ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira. Immigration took only a few minutes.

Our traditional Argentine built delta ferry.
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It was not large but the interior was comfortable.
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Ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira, Uruguay.
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Harbour entrance.
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Yacht moorings. Anchor astern with bow lines to the shore. Not a place to leave the boat unattended for too long.
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Commercial harbour just downstream.
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Powering down the Rio Uruguay.
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Then we turned into Rio Sauce. Pretty much unpopulated with only the occasional cottage.
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At Arroyo Ceibito we turned south towards Rio Parana Guazu.
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Arroyo Ceibito is quite narrow. At times we touched the trees.
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Our route then took us west along the Rio Parana Guazu to the busy Rio Parana Mini.

Tanker Antonio M Ferro in the Parana Mini. Fully loaded with main deck submerged. This must be Tropical Fresh Water and then some under load line rule though I couldn't see any load line at all.
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There are still wrecks, even this far north.

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A timber carrier, also with main deck submerged.
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It was a lovely trip through the heart of the Delta. From Parana Mini we continued in Canal 4 before entering Canal Gobernador de la Serna until Rio Parana de las Palmas which we crossed into Canal Gobernador Arias. Finally we entered Rio Lujan and continued on to Tigre.

Nordelta complex off Rio Lujan
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A busy Estacion Fluvial in Tigre.
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Conchilas

A fine, hot and windless day. I decided to have a look at the port of Conchilas sited about 40 km upriver from Colonia.

Scooter hire companies now advise customers not to venture beyond the limits of Colonia. This makes hiring one pretty pointless. I said I wanted to go to Conchilas and after first saying I couldn't the proprietor relented on the condition that I was on my own outside Colonia.

For US$20 I rented a tired 50cc scooter and set off. By road Conchilas is about 55km.

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After about an hour and a half I arrived at the village of Conchilas. Recognised for it's architectural heritage.
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Most buildings are long and low with galvanised tin rooves.
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Some are stone. Others plaster over brick/stone.
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There is a small park in the centre. Quiet would be an understatement.
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The bank was a little different.
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Most houses appeared to be part of long terraces.
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Puerto Conchilas lay about 20 minutes down a very worn out asphalt road.
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Apart from a few anglers Puerto Conchilas appeared deserted.
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The layout is not dissimilar to Colonia with the quay/breakwater facing more to the west. Channel marking buoys in the Rio Uruguay were clearly visible but apart from a light on the quay there appeared to be no navigational aids for Puerto Conchilas.

Prefectura office and beach viewed from the quay.
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Rio Uruguay side of the quay with abandoned chain and machinery. A strong ebb was flowing round the quay.
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Inshore working face of the quay with fendering. No sign of any recent activity. A number of mooring blocks were stacked awaiting deployment.
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Another view of the inshore quay from a small sandy beach nearby. A wreck in the approaches is also visible. This inshore bay would be totally exposed to winds from NE through to W.
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A fading cafe/residence near the quay.
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Another wreck further into the bay.
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Prefectura Office with exposed rocks and Rio Uruguay beyond.
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Quite what the purpose this port serves was unclear. At some point there must have been sufficient trade to justify the substantial quay/breakwater. Perhaps it will have a future as a leisure port if the moorings are deployed.

On the outskirts of Puerto Conchilas one is directed to a nearby yacht club.
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Situated on the south bank of Arroyo San Francisco.
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It boasts a substantial clubhouse,
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Riverside moorings, parking and parrillas.
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A shower block is close by.
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The ubiquitous french boat moored bow to bank with anchor aft. The bank is quite low and floods at high river levels.
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I did not see the entrance to Arroyo San Francisco. A chap in the club mentioned a minimum depth of 2m and two ocean going yachts were moored along with a couple of small argentine yachts. It appeared well sheltered.

Cost per night is Urg$100 (about £3) per night including electricity and I suspect lots of mosquitos. There did not appear to be any shops but it is a quiet spot with a couple of nice little beaches near The cost is not far south of charges at Colonia or Nueva Palmira.


On the way back to Conchilas I stopped by the English Cemetery.
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In fact there are numerous English and German graves...
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... sited alongside a much greater number of Spanish style graves.
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Back on Route 21 and 45km from Colonia. At this point my scooter was displaying a high temperature warning light.
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En route a sign to this battlefield. A battle of which I have never heard.
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Safely back in Colonia without incident there was a mirror calm,EveCol

and quarter moon.
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Colonia

It was windy and raining yesterday but today was fine and sunny.

Wandered about a bit amongst the side streets and residential areas to the west of central Colonia.

Yard statue complete with mate.
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A fine day in the harbour.
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Colonia

A horrible day today. Winds from the SE 24-30 knots with heavy rain most of the time. Towards evening it started to clear.
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Riachuelo to Colonia

A very quiet night. One certainly wouldn't know there were more than one hundred boats moored in this river.
In the morning we dinghied down to the beach. It shelves very gently and 50 metres from shore the water is still only waist deep.
We had a swim and a walk along the surprisingly clean beach. There was an old wreck in the shallows and two stranded navigation buoys further round the bay.

Back on board we prepared to sail. This involved using the dinghy to let go shore lines getting back on board and weighing anchor. In calm conditions it was pretty straightforward.

Moorings
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Foliage extends right to the water on both banks.
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Boats moored downstream of us.
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Floating plants.
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There was a little wind outside the river but it died away and we continued under engine to Colonia. No sign of the grounded yacht we saw yesterday so they must have got her off.

Back in Colonia at 18:10 we picked up another buoy further inshore and much more sheltered.

After dinner ashore nancy got the 23:30 fast Buquebus ferry back to Buenos Aires. Cost Urg$1010 (£32).
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Colonia to Riachuelo

This morning we topped up on stores and paid the Hidrografica fee of around £5.00 per day.

We set off from Colonia with a brisk WNW wind and had a lovely sail round to Riachuello 8.8 miles away.

The jetty we visited yesterday. The long beach was practically empty.
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A yacht aground inshore near Pinta Negro. We heard later that they had grounded while trying to recover dinghy.
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Outer buoy, Riachuello approaches.
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The approach to Riachuello was pretty straightforward. We were set a bit to the east and the water shoaled rapidly. It's best to maintain a straight line from the fairway buoy into the river proper.

Riachuello entrance.
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Looking astern to seaward.
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I had expected a few boats but this is a popular spot. There were boats everywhere. Moored bow into the trees, paralell to the shore on two anchors and various other permutations.

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We moored just upstream from an aggregates plant. Initially I deployed our small Bruce. It now rests in 4 metres of muddy water. It being the first time the anchor has been deployed I failed to check that it was connected to the chain. It wasn't.

The CQR was then deployed astern and we got moorings ashore. However,the CQR did not set properly and dragged every time the wind gusted. After three failed resets I bought the Rocna down from the bow. At the second attempt it dug in well and we were secure.


Time to go over the side for a swim.
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Colonia

Live entertainment on Plaza Major in Colonia.
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Colonia

We rented a 50cc scooter at US$7 per hour, ignored the instruction to remain within Colonia city limits, and set off to wander eastwards along the coast.

Five to six miles east of Colonia this large pier extended several hundred metres into the river plate. Now derelict it had previously been used for the export of aggregates to Argentina.
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Palm lined highway on the outskirts of Colonia.
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Tree lined street to the east of Colonia.
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Bridge on the now derelict Montevideo/Colonia railway.
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Park Forrestal Ferrando. 54 hectares on the eastern side of Colonia

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Colonia terminus, Colonia Montevideo railway.
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Colonia lighthouse.
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Old city walls and moat, Colonia.
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Colonia

I think I now have the correct checkin procedures. First, report to the Hidrografica office and register vessel details. Second, present a crew list and vessel details to the Prefectura. For Mercosur nationals that is it. Crew changes are merely noted on the crew list.

Third, non Mercosur nationals need to report to immigration at 428, 18 de Julio for an entry stamp.
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Erica caught a bus to La Paloma and we had a relaxing afternoon on board. I rigged the main sun cover. There was sufficient wind for the wind generator to keep up with consumption.

In the evening we ate at the restaurant overlooking the harbour we had visited in August. (Urg$520)
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Seen on the dock and supplied by Ninos Bikes.
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Puerto Madero to Colonia

Today's forecast was for NE winds 17-21 knots backing W and then SW. I had cleared customs yesterday so we set off for immigration and the prefectura. All straight forward and we were back on board ready to go by 14:10 which meant we had to wait until the bridge opened again at 15:00.

Approaching the exit to Puerto Madero with the bridge just starting to open.
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It closed as soon as we were through.
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ARA Libertad in Puerto Madero.
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Yacht Club Argentino.
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It was a fast sail across will with 22-32 knots of wind on the port quarter (NW). More short steep seas and we only used between 2/3 and full yankee.

However, as the crew discovered, progress was not uncomfortable.
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We covered 30 miles in just over 5 hours, a very fast passage for Kiriwina. At Colonia there were only 2 vacant buoys and with NW7 over a long fetch in fading light it was a job to pick up a buoy. At the third attempt we made it.

The combination of wind over tide made for a very uncomfortable motion on board. We went ashore for dinner after which Nancy and Erica opted to sleep in a hostel.
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Deckhead Holes

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Response

Waiting for a bus in Recoleta this morning when 6 police cars arrived nearby. Officers left their cars, put on bullet proof jackets, drew their side arms and entered a building.

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By the time the bus arrived it was looking like a false alarm. They were leaving without anybody in custody.
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Santiago to Buenos Aires



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Viñha del Mar and Valpariso

We stayed at Hotel Quinta Vergara. At C$30,000 (£36) it was towards the cheaper end of the market and a bit tired. But OK for one night.
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This morning we lingered in Parque Quinta Vergara and visited Palacio Quinta Vergara dating from 1910.
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One one side of the park is the spectacular rebuilt Anfiteatro de la Quinta Vergara.

Stage.
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Concrete seating area.
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Entrance.
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We liked this colourful park.
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A short walk away from the park is the Viñha del Mar stop on the Valparaiso/Limache Metro. To travel one must first buy a swipe card (C$1,000/£1.20) and charge it. We put C$2,000 on and our trip to Valpariso cost around C$500 each.
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Sculpted albatross seen from the Metro.
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Valpariso commercial port. Most of the ships loading in port appeared to be reefers loading agricultural products.
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A gaggle or tourist boats. We took a 20 minute private launch trip around the harbour at a cost of C$10,000 (£12). With hindsight the larger public launch at C$1,000 per person looked much better value.
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New year fireworks barges.
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Sociber floating dry dock.
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Valpariso is also a large Chilean naval base.

Support ships:
LST-92 Rancagua outboard and
LST-93 Valdavia Ex USS San Bernadino

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Frigates
FF-19 Almirante Williams Ex HMS Sheffield
FFG -14 Almirante Latorre

FFG -15 Almirante Blanco Encalada
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Frigates Type 23

FF-05 Almirante Cochrane Ex HMS Norfolk
FF-06 Almirante Condell Ex HMS Marlborough

FF-07 Almirante Lynch Ex HMS Grafton
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Cruise liner Star Princess.
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Valpariso container terminal.
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Harbour view from our lunchtime restaurant.
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Cancy at our nautically themed table.
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Wrought iron detailing on the naval memorial fence. Valparaiso.
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Valparaiso trolley bus.
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We took the Metro back to Viñha del Mar and caught a coach to Santiago. The Santiago metro is one of the cleanest I have seen. Trains are even cleaned at terminal stations on turn-around. This company appear to hold the cleaning contract. Well done them.
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Back at home birthday girl Sofia with uncle Seb.
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Viñha del Mar

After breakfast at Blanca's we took a collectivo taxi to the metro. A collectivo taxi is a car/van that operates a bit like a bus. It cruises a certain route picking up passengers along the way for a fixed fare of C$500 (£0.60p).

We took the metro to Pajaritos where we booked a coach to Viñha del Mar.

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The excellent coach service C$3500 (£4.20) took us straight on to the Autopista and then down Ruta 68 to Viñha.

On board information system.
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Vineyards on the outskirts of Santiago.

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Viña Indomita.
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En route.
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Valley of palms, approaches to Viñha del Mar.
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Switchback road down into Viñha del Mar.
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They plan for Tsunamis here.
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View from our room at Hotel Quinta Vergara overlooking Parque Quinta Vergara.
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After a quick change we caught a city bus out to playa Renaca.
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It was quite cold with an offshore wind, red flags and a good surf running.
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Petrol prices in Chile.
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Petrol 95 £0.70p per litre.
Diesel Ultra £0.54 per litre.
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Alto Las Condes

A late start saw us get a lift with Seb to the Metro where we caught a train to Escuela Militar and then took a taxi to Alto Las Condes Shopping.

it was time for lunch and we went for an Indian. The best I've had since leaving the UK. Not so for Erica who suffered a little later in the day.

After a bit of shopping in this very large complex we took taxi/metro/taxi down to La Florida to spend the evening with family.
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Santiago



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Santiago - New Years Day

We spent new years day in Santiago. At late breakfast followed by an afternoon lounging around the pool.

Disheveled hair and breakfast.
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The dogs full of energy.
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Erica at the pool.
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Nancy.
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Sebastian and Majo.
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